Struts and Shocks Pricing
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 18
Likes: 9
2011 E350 4MATIC - W212
Struts and Shocks Pricing
Hi everyone,
I have a 2011 E350 with 99.5K miles and want to have both the front struts and rear shocks replaced (the car has been riding a bit hard). What should I expect to pay at an indy shop in metro New York City area. Don’t want to go in blind asking for this repair. Many thanks.
I have a 2011 E350 with 99.5K miles and want to have both the front struts and rear shocks replaced (the car has been riding a bit hard). What should I expect to pay at an indy shop in metro New York City area. Don’t want to go in blind asking for this repair. Many thanks.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Hi everyone,
I have a 2011 E350 with 99.5K miles and want to have both the front struts and rear shocks replaced (the car has been riding a bit hard). What should I expect to pay at an indy shop in metro New York City area. Don’t want to go in blind asking for this repair. Many thanks.
I have a 2011 E350 with 99.5K miles and want to have both the front struts and rear shocks replaced (the car has been riding a bit hard). What should I expect to pay at an indy shop in metro New York City area. Don’t want to go in blind asking for this repair. Many thanks.
You need quality work only.
Did you know... Let me open your eyes to:
STRUTS are VERY TEMP SENSITIVE items.
They are hard in winter & bouncy in summer.
The strut/shocks cheap hydraulic oil viscosity deliver this variation - better PAO oil grade would have excellent temp stability.
TWO things that make the chassis bouncy:
-- crappy REAR stab-links rubbers (need F+R)
-- super heat from the engine fan (even winter)
How much less than $2k is fine
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 10, 2025 at 03:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 18
Likes: 9
2011 E350 4MATIC - W212
Thanks for the feedback. I was going to use a trusted in Indy and only MB parts. Wanted (want) to get a sense of the cost involved.
Before you get your chassis tempered with on budget and come back here wondering why this and that's happening... consider WHO is going to work on your car snd what BRANDS parts are going to go in, not only how much for the first round.
You need quality work only.
Did you know... Let me open your eyes to:
STRUTS are VERY TEMP SENSITIVE items.
They are hard in winter & bouncy in summer.
The strut/shocks cheap hydraulic oil viscosity deliver this variation - better PAO oil grade would have excellent temp stability.
TWO things that make the chassis bouncy:
-- crappy REAR stab-links rubbers (need F+R)
-- super heat from the engine fan (even winter)
How much less than $2k is fine
You need quality work only.
Did you know... Let me open your eyes to:
STRUTS are VERY TEMP SENSITIVE items.
They are hard in winter & bouncy in summer.
The strut/shocks cheap hydraulic oil viscosity deliver this variation - better PAO oil grade would have excellent temp stability.
TWO things that make the chassis bouncy:
-- crappy REAR stab-links rubbers (need F+R)
-- super heat from the engine fan (even winter)
How much less than $2k is fine
