hi,
this is what's going on with my car, 2010 E350 4matic,
1.won't turn off for several minutes of repeated tries, then finally does. I try the go button and 2 fob keys. This happens randomly, 1-2 times a month for past 6 months.
2.while trying to shift into R or D, from a full stop, will spontaneously shift back to Park. This has happens maybe 3 times in the last 6 months.
3.while driving at a slow roll, it spontaneously shifted from D to Park. This happened only a few times on 1 day, Feb. 8.

the local shop got these codes,
C12100 communication with ESP has a malfunction EZS electronic ignition lock N73
C14600 communication with the central gateway has a malfunction EZS electronic ignition lock N73
a10d00 the power supply is too low KG KEYLESS GO N69/5
Has anyone experienced this, and how was it repaired?
thanks

 

There is a common broken solder problem for EZS.
Not too difficult to inspect

Watch below :

Good luck.....



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Do you know if the scanner your mechanic has is MB aware to monitor live data? Otherwise, my advice is to spend @$120 for. Launch Creader Elite for Benz. It will pay by itself in a few usages, and it will save you trips to your mechanic, and the dealer for diagnosis.

@CaliBenzDriver and @S-Prihadi , I asked him to do a few tests to verify if his car has the dreaded steering lock. Surya could you please check in WIS if his vehicle has electromechanical steering lock. It is a 2010 with FBS3; security. I cannot believe it does not have it.

The idea of the test was to be certain the EIS is also talking to the ESL (if it exists). Either the EIS is not sending the position 1, or 0 back on return (unlikely), the relay N and R are stuck, or the ECU is not receiving the signal because the CAN is busted

@mbforE350 , if you get the EIS out, you can post photos open before or after, your call.

Here is a link for an inexpensive very good scanner,
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrxOa9t
It does Benz only

 

Yes, scanner is a must have to work on MB....
Thanks JC for reminding

 

There is also a relay problem/recall . A member here have starting issue WHEN COLD, due to this relay.
This is the smaller sized relay a bit recangular, not the big square one.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...67510-9999.pdf

 

That is relay R for the W212, associated with circuit 87, I
i.e. ignition circuit. Named "Chassis circuit 87 relay".

Wonder the side effects if it sitcks

 

This is Relay R duty in my car, RHD version.
No OK from tranny, engine wont be able to start




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Above is my RHD car, USA LHD will have Relay R close to firewall.

 

JC, this is a duplicate post.
I have answered it somewhere else.

Personally I don't think this is single module... it's a combination.

 

The owner already did a visual check of the FrontSAM, and RearSAM, and they are as clean as new. Hopefully he adds the pictures here. There is a communication issue, perhaps CAN distributor blocks on the driver/passenger side?They sometimes fail w/o water help. or frontSAM/CGW issue?

What puzzles me is that the car can start w/o issue: EIS sends positions 0, 1, and 2 to the ECU and fires up, but in reverse, 2, 1, 0 fails to complete the shutdown.

 

ok I see what is going on, I start on my thread named turning off engine, shifting malfunctions - codes, EZS electronic ignition lock N73
and as I scroll down to reply, it jumps on another related thread, N73 - Electronic ignition lock (EZS)? and that must have started a near duplicate conversation.
ANYWAYS.
Back to the column steering anti-theft lock, when I turn the fob key to the AC-on - wait - and crank to start, I can hear more clearly a noise like electronic whirring coming from the rear of the vehicle, than any whisper of a noise at the front,.
I'm guessing that's the fuel pumps activating?
There is no vibration, no sound from the dashboard or steering column, other than the door chimes.

Yesterday, I disconnected the main battery, both positive and negative cables are off, overnight. Today, I'm planning to get to the ignition switch, and see if that white 3-pin piece is needing re-soldering.

Thinking about those codes, and possible explanations...grasping at straws,

Around 115,000 miles on odometer, Sept. 2023, replaced main battery.
Oct. 2023, replaced auxiliary battery, myself.
I didn't bring it in to test or re-set for any codes.
Odometer now is around 130,000 miles.
Could changing out the batteries have brought on codes that didn't erase for 1.5 years, 15,000 miles?

I don't go anywhere for a week at a time.
Could it be possible that the zero to 30F damp winter weather, sitting on concrete driveway-not garaged, could have brought moisture from the ground up, causing the gateway connection or other codes?
There wasn't more than 2" of snow at a given time all winter, and no flooding that I would have been driving through, and definitely no spills inside the car.
I'm wondering, if the EIS problem is fixed, and the main battery is reconnected, if the codes will clear after the driving cycle.

Again, to emphasize, I may not start or drive the car for a week at a time. I heard that some cars can have batteries drain, get wacky problems, just because they aren't driven enough. Is this a known problem?

What's the story with this car, why would there be damp carpeting anyway? rusted floorboards? soaked noise insulation? poor undercarriage design that pockets water?

 

Unfortunately. MB vehicles are water lovers. For this particular model, there are few entry points for water:
1 - The panoroof/sunroof has 4 drains: one on each corner. It is very common for car that spend time outdoors sitting that the drains get clogged with leaves, dirt, etc. As the drain fills up with water (in particular with heavy rain or during the winter), the water can reach a level where it starts to leak into the vehicle. Usually you will see a stain on the A or C pillar where the headliner could also start to sag a bit.
2 - On the W212, there are have been several (in the tens), where the windshield sealant starts to give and water starts to leak into the cabin. Winter makes it worse because a little bit of water sips into the sealant area, freezes, expands, increase the gap and the cycle repeats between thaws. Very common issue.

Of course, gravity being our friend, the water tends to accumulate on the bottom of the floor on two particular areas: along where the electrical wiring and the CAN bridge connectors are. Once water gets there, all kind of electric ghosts show up.

Here is a video explaining the water ingestion (notice why I asked you to check the frontSAM)


Here is an example of diagnosing a CAN network issue (Keyless GO this time) -> Notice the CAN bridges on the side of the front seats (both sides), and water ends up on those wiring areas.


Another CAN diagnostic, gear shifting this time

 

Taking out the EIS from the mounting hole in the dashboard:
I took off the outer screw ring. Several videos show guys using 2 screwdrivers. I find using a needle nose pliers or an inside caliper tool much easier than juggling 2 screwdrivers.
It's STUCK, not just falling out through the hole, behind the dash as several videos show.
Several videos show going to all lengths of removing the dashboard vents and trim, removing the radio, removing the panel above the pedals. USELESS. There is absolutely NO access to the EIS from any of these approaches.
Then I went in through the skirt area of the steering column. As I started to carefully pull the skirt trim back, the plastic cracked in 3 pieces, so I tore that all out. Still, not enough room for a child's hand to get in and get at the box. This guy's demo was more realistic to what I'm encountering. I'm going to give it one more try tomorrow, and then it's dremel cutting time.
Interesting, in the start of this video, he says he's doing this because driving at a slow speed (2-5 mph) and the car spontaneously shifted into park, like mine did.

 

This is a more proper way, and the only way when u have to replace the broken skirt/trim ( I broke mine already LOL ).


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I broke it when trying to replace N80 steering column. Brittle plastic with age.

 

Couple of things:

At slow speeds, the tranny will shift into Park automatically if the driver's door is opened. I've only tried it at a standstill, but it's been reported to happen at slow speeds. Maybe a bad door switch could cause this.



If concerned about water intrusion and accumulation, pull up the carpeting and remove the drain hole plugs (grommets) from the floor boards.


Drain plug in place

Drain plug (grommet) removed

 

NOPE. That CAN diagnostics insanity made me go into an ADHD coma.

 

Yes, DO NOT do that, it was a very frightening experience, and the transmission wasn't happy, I accidentally did exactly this when I started driving and the door wasn't closed properly, when it swung open a bit (still latched but not fully latched) it thought I was opening the door and the transmission slammed into Park, I am not sure if the brakes was also automatically applied but makes sense if it did.

 

I forgot to mention you have the same or similar behaviour if for example you accidentally pulled the parking brake while vehicle is in motion, it tells you to release parking brake but the car slams to a halt. Ouch!

 

I don't have a hand lever for the parking brake. So, no cool parking maneuvers.

 

S Prihadi, JCM, that ignition module was click-locked into place for me. I had to carefully tap from the front of the module, in the gaps between where the front ring is, until it popped out. Putting it back in, it made a definite push-in-hard-and-click - tight fit back into place. That front ring could be tossed away and the module would never fall out. So far as removing the vents panel, and the radio, the panel above the foot pedals, didn't matter for ANYTHING. NO access, no purpose, for removing any of this. Just saying, in case you get future questions about this same car. Most of the youtube videos are not even close to being helpful, at least this car in particular. The only way to go is pulling away the steering column skirt, and going in at that direction. The "engineer" that ran that special hose from above the accelerator pedal, past the steering column, and behind the radio: you will get your day in hell for this. What IS THIS, and WHY. Also, for the EIS module, I took my dremel cutting wheel and shaved off the "prongs" that stuck out and served no purpose, other than making it a major B to get it out. After I mangled the vent hose out of the way, and cut off the no-purpose prongs off the module, it was no problem pushing it back in for re-mounting. The EIS had no 3-point part that was broken from its soldering, everything looked intact, clean and dry. So it was a big waste of time. My only positive note is that the car is running, all the dashboard is looking like nothing happened, except for the steering column skirt that broke apart and tossed in the garbage.

 

I am not talking about brake turns

 

The car door was fully closed, this was not the issue. I was going slowly, under 5mph, and the car made a clicking/grinding noise, jerked to a halt shifted into park. Door closed, seat belt securely clicked in, no dash warning lights. Car just having a mind of its own for a half mile up a muddy gravel road.

 

The car door can be closed and still have a bad switch. But you would probably get a code for the door switch if that was the case.

 

Clicking noise, sounds like the vehicle auto engaged park, parking pawl engages at below 10 or was it 5 kph if you do press it by accident, it keeps on clicking until it is slotted and the vehicle is stopped, I had that happen once before.

 

W205C43PFL , was that a one-time problem or did you have other problems and get repaired?

 

OMG - This is a killer disruption.

Something is causing ISM to go into Park while driving.

Guess what ?
Your tranny longevity may benefit from this repair.

-- Option 1: SCAN your whole chassis for disruption clues.

-- Option 2: If you're in a rush to have parts replaced ask MB Dealer for help or the $3,000. ISM job.

other options require detailed troubleshooting related to solderless EIS and to the CAN-C disruptions.

MB CAN Networking benefits/Need good chassis voltage (ALT/BATT).