E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Ctek 5 amp - Mode Button oxidized, drill baby drill

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Old May 29, 2025 | 12:52 AM
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S-Prihadi's Avatar
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Ctek 5 amp - Mode Button oxidized, drill baby drill

This button been long time naughty...... not working.
Few weeks ago my staff motorbike battery went flat by accidental light switch activated.
My CTEK can't do Motorbike 1A mode, DUGGHHH !!!! Its mode button is bad.
His small bike battery is only 5 amps and max allowed charge current is 2A.
So I go no choice but to run the Ctek and my SKYRC digital load bank set at 3 amps.
.

Anyway, few days ago.......... I DRILL BABY DRILL ,,,,,,,,,,
Me too lazy to tear charger open, as mine is glued all around.

So I drilled two holes and inject contact cleaner, result not bad.


.

Position of MODE BUTTON and motherboard perimeter

Above is mode button with its wide pusher black plastic part



Below is mode button as is, stand alone





.
So is your mode button naughty-intermittent ?

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Old May 29, 2025 | 06:36 AM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
SOMETHING ELSE is going on!!

You see how you have 3x MODE LED's ON at the same time???

It's not the crazy switch going bad.. the PCB is going banana. Normally LED MODE is one mode selected at the time.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 29, 2025 at 06:37 AM.
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Old May 29, 2025 | 08:18 AM
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Its been this way since new....when button was good, like 4+ years ago.
CAR+AGM+RECOND = RECOND for AGM car size battery
If AGM not lighted, means lead acid battery

Maybe firmware version urs and mine different ?
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Old May 29, 2025 | 02:39 PM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
CTEK FLOATER

Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
Its been this way since new....when button was good, like 4+ years ago.
CAR+AGM+RECOND = RECOND for AGM car size battery
If AGM not lighted, means lead acid battery

Maybe firmware version urs and mine different ?
I guess you're right, it must be a firmware difference.

push-type
push-type

Mine has been disassembled since we looked at this 2 Month ago... I need to drill the swiss-cheese vents holes -
disassembled , wires hanging out
disassembled , wires hanging out

Why don't you wire an external push-type switch. It switches zero power on the control side


Now I got to finish my CPS-new pigtails + inspection nearly clean valves.
I'm looking at next step for HPFP + Coolant elbow pipe at the rear while intake is off.

I see the genuine radiator quality is JUNK!
nearly sealed crimps sweating coolant
nearly sealed crimps sweating coolant


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 29, 2025 at 02:44 PM.
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Old May 29, 2025 | 10:57 PM
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S-Prihadi's Avatar
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Next time when the MODE switch gone bad, I will solder an outside switch.
Yours is CTEK MUS4.3 version, I did no know they have unique size 4.3A and how come no AGM selection ?

Your radiator asking for financial love

You have not done totall plastic pipe and rubber cooling circuit refresh ?
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Old May 30, 2025 | 12:47 AM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
THIS & THAT

Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
Next time when the MODE switch gone bad, I will solder an outside switch.
Yours is CTEK MUS4.3 version, I did no know they have unique size 4.3A and how come no AGM selection ?

Your radiator asking for financial love

You have not done totall plastic pipe and rubber cooling circuit refresh ?

Bahamas Islands resort coffee 👍

I apologize as I've been slacking on my re-pipe program. I am planning a bit of catching up now that I have dropped coolant peek pressure. No damage to new parts.

Same thing with suspensions rubbers turning into chewing gum: i want to loose my sway bar bushings really bad, starting up front.

My CTEK has AGM Mode: it's the 3rd LED (only for out of circuit battery).

I seldom use float charger now that essential bugs have been disabled.

Thank you Master Surya.


There's still CAN branches that built unbalanced to mess up transmit levels we've been resetting with Reboots....
This is advanced NEURO-SURGERY to rebalance VIP CAN's. This needs a study the carefully nested Easter-eggs. I've realized the CAN was jacked up each time I soldered loose pins I got rewarded with improved steering, brakes, tranny, engine...

On the other hand, you have done a lot with cooling improvements to restore normal function and you have tons of data sensors logging - This is all ready for you to lead or summarize the M276 HEAT IMPROVEMENT STUDY ???

A lot of Turbo guys really could use honest cooling to avoid unecessary failures, myself included.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 30, 2025 at 01:13 AM.
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