'14 E350 M276 engine.

Consolidating this into one thread as I have some more specific questions now that I am getting ready to tackle this job in two weeks.

**I have the WIS but cannot install it on my computer as "this computer has hyperV installed".....does anyone have the WIS saved for this procedure that you can send me?

I have the usual 3-4 second rattle on startup, replaced both upper tensioners, no change, still rattles. Redneck stethoscope confirms it's the driver's side (US) bank rattling.

I had it in to the dealer and paid the diagnostic fee just for them to confirm before I jumped in....$13,000 quote for four cam phasers plus an oil pump "because they always go next"...GFY. outright refusal to do any work without replacing all four phasers plus the oil pump, which probably doubles the cost because now you are getting into the timing cover and chains and all. That was a total "or......you know....you could trade it in on one of our other fine Mercedes automobiles......" price.

Ordered a set of cam phasers and oil control valves. I also know I need the special T100 socket.

Question 1: What ELSE do I need so I can have it on hand? I am also going to order a set of cam position sensors.

IMPORTANT: I will NOT be removing the cam cover. That is just too big of a can of worms for me to get into. I will be doing this through the timing cover on the front of the engine.

Question 2: I have searched here, and watched DOZENS of videos but I think one thing they keep glossing over is, how are they holding the cam from rotating, while you torque down the oil control valve? I have seen mention of removing the vacuum pump (which looks fun) and using a T60 socket.

Question 2a. When I look up images of both the camshaft and the vacuum pump it looks like the vac pump is engaged to the cam by what looks like two flat prongs, not a T60 fitting. Am I wrong here?

Question 2b. The vacuum pump is only driven off of one cam (right?). So what do you do for all the OTHER cams that are not driving the vac pump? Is there a rear timing cover, or ?

Question 3: Since I cannot access the WIS, what's the torque spec on the oil control valve? I think its something like 157 ft-bs?

I am planning on rotating the engine over until the chain tensioner "relaxes" and trying to re-retract the tensioner with a drill bit, to get some slack in the chain. Then marking the phasers and the chain, removing one phaser at a time, transferring the marks to the new phaser on the bench, then hopefully reinstalling. I am not going the route of sending the phasers out for rebuild as was suggested, as I really want to avoid removing all four at one time. I just feel like this route is safer and less likely for me to mess up the timing.

I have already switched over to 5w50 full synthetic oil and I am trying to unplug the oil pressure solenoid, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get in there to do it. I just can't get the leverage or the angle needed.

Thanks for your help. Hoping to keep this thread open as I dig into this during the first week of August. Which by the way WAS my vacation week but now I get to spend it doing this. Hooray.

 

Great planning steps + questions!

Your rattling Bank2 intake camshaft has a rear plastic cover-plug (Exh. side) the vacuum pump.

> COMANDO STEPS...
I really like your no non-sense step-by-step approach: No valve cover + injector + rail... Extra chain-markings for easy timing alignment check.

> RELUCTORS TIMING...
I would add to double check your reluctors position through CPS opening. You may need to set them back in-time during service if they have shifted.

> HOW FIFTY PERCENT ...
You do NOT need to deal with bank-1 Intake. it really makes the necessary repair twice as fast.

Your MOD-X oiling upgrade should further preserve your lock pins. VVT will stay unlocked as soon as engine is running.... instead of stock oiling: "lock/unlock/lock" all day non-stop.
Leave your bank1-Intake alone for now: ok.

In case you deal with Bank1: add new "HPFP/Roller + PCV cover" to your part list.

The chain tensioners shafts are limp/weak and finger tight in aluminum heads. Timing cover uses "1x-use" aluminum bolts: finger tight also else snap without any stretching.


> SOLENOID MOD...
Much has been experienced already, best to refer to related thread for tips.
The limited oil pressure guarantees VVT unlocked rattling.

 

OK, so are you saying I don't need to remove the vacuum pump if I'm only going to do the intake? I already bought a set of 4 phasers, they are genuine mercedes but the whole set ended up being half the price of one from FCP Euro. I figured since I was opening it up I would at least do both of them on the driver's side, and maybe see if the passenger's side can be left alone, but if you are telling me I can fix the problem without touching the vacuum pump that has me rethinking things. How is the plastic plug attached and what do I need to hold the camshaft in place, is that where the T60 comes into play?

Thank you!

 

Grabbing some pics off eBay it definitely looks like the intake cam is the one driving the vac pump, so it has to get removed. Although I can now see the T60 fitting is under the two-prong vac pump drive.

 

The exhaust VVT gear stays like new, never used at low RPM with dismal pressure. Exh. only shifts at high RPM.

Not the exhaust phasers and not the passenger side - Only Bk2 intake... nice and quick without disturbing valve cover/GDI Injectors!
Test.... Double-check Bk1 intake stays locked by rotating crank CW and observing/listening for Camshaft skipping forward.


I think the rear plastic plug of Bk2 intake exhaust camshaft is just pressed in held by its O-Ring tension. A dab of RTV sealant should do.

Do you mind sharing where you get 4x genuine MB VVT for less than half at FCP-Euro ??

 

Yes it does... pump comes out.
Needs new O-ring for it + see check-valve.


intake drives pump

As long as the valve cover stays put, you're saving a lot of your time.

 

OK, just to confirm I do need to remove the vacuum pump, I'm not touching the plastic plug. That's going to be a real pain but I'll figure it out.

What about using chain tension and just bracing the crank pulley bolt? How likely am I to stretch the chain?

eBay - $400/set of 4. These cars are getting old enough that people are getting rid of parts inventory since no one is going to pay $13000 to fix a noise on a $8000 car. Control valves were $20 each too.

 

Yes only pop off the intake side vacuum pump and nothing else - In & out quick!


> WEAK LINKS...
Good question about using the chain... NO-NO on torquing 150Lb/Ft using your chain!
There's an intermediate shaft sprocket where both chains meet. Don't torque that!!!
M276 has no less than FOUR chains, not the toughest links.


> GOOD/BAD PARTS...
-- I am not sure your "Genuine MB" eBay phasers are trust worthy or counterfeits - Is the price a good indication?
-- You can buy a rebuild-kit with only plates + pins that will let you reuse your own phasers.


> ACCESS OPPORTUNITY...
While you're back there with pump out, there is a much needed maintenance for coolant pipes.

The "firewall-elbow" and related hard-conduit pipes from Bk2 rear. They fail by engine vibrations+ extreme heatsoaks cracking the plastic elbow.

 

I looked for rebuild parts, couldn't find any. Do you have a link?

 

Let me see.... this topic popped up recently.

there are two suppliers of these cheap repair plates
one in eastern Europe : plates only!
and one in USA: plates + pins

"vr speed" or something....

You just need one plate + pin but may need to buy 4x counts

 

Here is one....

 

They are working on different engines. I actually contacted them about doing this job for me after you posted that link earlier, but as far as I have learned that shop in Poland is the only one that actually rebuilds M276 phasers.

 

then buy yourself 1x MB genuine intake phaser. It's better than 4x counterfeits, right?


The machining be ok but heat treatment may not be there.... hard to trust without QA testing.

 

First off, there's nothing that tells me as yet they are counterfeit. However, I don't have them yet.

Second, one new intake phaser is $1000, still more than 2x the cost of the four I got. And given that it's normally the intake that goes, most websites list it as "if supplies exist".

My car has 185,000 miles on it, although at this stage of its' life it drives less than five miles a week. In any case as long as I don't screw up installing it, it will be fine, even if it is counterfeit.

 

I see... the numbers make it worth the experiment.

Take apart both old / new intakes phasers to compare similarities side by side... can't be that bad ?

 

My thoughts exactly. Also, maybe the new phasers can serve as "parts donors" for rebuilding the original ones? Just another option. I mean, they are in Mercedes boxes with Mercedes part numbers and the Mercedes logo laser-etched into them. Pretty convincing fakes if you asked me.

 

I think these parts are produced in the very same factory as genuine ones but failed to get accepted in the supply-chain for undisclosed reason.

This could entirely be a great deal or not...

Great idea to swap the new plate/pin into your existing phaser gear.

180kMi engine rattle ... must be highways miles. City miles would be a lot sooner from hot thin oil.

 

First time. For the first few years we had the car, my wife had a 200-mile commute daily. She's since gradually worked more from home, and 100% from home since COVID.