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E350 showing these errors, whats the next step

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Old Aug 26, 2025 | 12:34 PM
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W212 E350 ‘14
E350 showing these errors, whats the next step

Hello everyone. Apologies if I sound like im rambling, there's a bit of information. Here's the initial post:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...parts-car.html

Based on everyone's advice here I got the car scanned, it was an ex MB tech. He had brought an Autel scanner and found the following errors:

60100, 61100, 40100 - No CAN message was received from CE62 (steering column tube module control unit)

22400 - The CAN link has an open circuit.

I obviously do not know what it means, and he had other messages come up but im not sure if those were repeats or different. I didnt get to see them.

Im not sure it was the greatest move to have him come out, since he eventually wanted to me to just sell the car to him as figuring out the problem is chasing a ghost in this case. Said it's definitely electrical but can't say where and what. He said he now wanted nearly 2000 dollars to basically go through the whole and car checking all the wires and connectors and find the issues. He also said he may never find them so better at this point to just get rid of the car.

He reset the computer before leaving and later that evening I took the car out. And not a single error came up for a 30 min drive. Everything was operational, felt I like I just bought the car. All the driver safety features were working too (blind spot pre safe etc).
Yesterday I took it out and every error was there and then some, wouldn't even turn off until manual key turn. ABS was inactive, even the backup camera wouldn't come onl. But then when I turned it on an hour later, every light was gone, except now there was check engine only (not sure if that one is warranted or just electrical again but can just long due oil change be culprit if its real?)

What is everyone's thoughts? Does this sound like the next best move, or am I being swindled. Do I take to dealer at this point or will that be even more costly. Im not savvy enough to take it apart myself and hard finding a trustworthy mechanic. Is this something I can really do myself if im a novice at it.

Thank you
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Old Aug 26, 2025 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDoc
Hello everyone. Apologies if I sound like im rambling, there's a bit of information. Here's the initial post:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...parts-car.html

Based on everyone's advice here I got the car scanned, it was an ex MB tech. He had brought an Autel scanner and found the following errors:

60100, 61100, 40100 - No CAN message was received from CE62 (steering column tube module control unit)

22400 - The CAN link has an open circuit.

I obviously do not know what it means, and he had other messages come up but im not sure if those were repeats or different. I didnt get to see them.

Im not sure it was the greatest move to have him come out, since he eventually wanted to me to just sell the car to him as figuring out the problem is chasing a ghost in this case. Said it's definitely electrical but can't say where and what. He said he now wanted nearly 2000 dollars to basically go through the whole and car checking all the wires and connectors and find the issues. He also said he may never find them so better at this point to just get rid of the car.

He reset the computer before leaving and later that evening I took the car out. And not a single error came up for a 30 min drive. Everything was operational, felt I like I just bought the car. All the driver safety features were working too (blind spot pre safe etc).
Yesterday I took it out and every error was there and then some, wouldn't even turn off until manual key turn. ABS was inactive, even the backup camera wouldn't come onl. But then when I turned it on an hour later, every light was gone, except now there was check engine only (not sure if that one is warranted or just electrical again but can just long due oil change be culprit if its real?)

What is everyone's thoughts? Does this sound like the next best move, or am I being swindled. Do I take to dealer at this point or will that be even more costly. Im not savvy enough to take it apart myself and hard finding a trustworthy mechanic. Is this something I can really do myself if im a novice at it.

Thank you
Doc, you find yourself between a rock and a hard place.
Your excellent MY'14 W212 has electrical issues maturing in relation to steering column and core safety features.

This unstable condition is not unusual for 2014 Mercedes. 90% chance this is caused by low voltage conditions combined with seasoned steering module pressed pins.

Needless to say your car needs expert service to operate safely.
The failing SCM module will need attention and perhaps drained batteries as well.

In future you should proactively prevent low battery voltage using a float charger such as CTEK or NOCO.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 26, 2025 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2025 | 04:36 PM
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W212 E350 ‘14
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Doc, you find yourself between a rock and a hard place.
Your excellent MY'14 W212 has electrical issues maturing in relation to steering column and core safety features.

This unstable condition is not unusual for 2014 Mercedes. 90% chance this is caused by low voltage conditions combined with seasoned steering module pressed pins.

Needless to say your car needs expert service to operate safely.
The failing SCM module will need attention and perhaps drained batteries as well.

In future you should proactively prevent low battery voltage using a float charger such as CTEK or NOCO.
Thanks for replying. So the batteries were swapped 6. months ago with dealer parts, but were done by a non Mercedes mechanic.

When the guy I had come look recently used the scanner, it was now showing 14.19V, something the guy said was out of range, then blamed it on the installer not recalibrating when installing.
Is this a real concern and issue? and does it need to be addressed. what are the normal value for it?

Do you recommend going straight to dealerships and pay tons for the repair, or do you think the repairs will exceed the worth in long run
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Old Aug 26, 2025 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDoc
Thanks for replying. So the batteries were swapped 6. months ago with dealer parts, but were done by a non Mercedes mechanic.

When the guy I had come look recently used the scanner, it was now showing 14.19V, something the guy said was out of range, then blamed it on the installer not recalibrating when installing.
Is this a real concern and issue? and does it need to be addressed. what are the normal value for it?

Do you recommend going straight to dealerships and pay tons for the repair, or do you think the repairs will exceed the worth in long run
You want to be safe in your car. The independent network of private dealers offer service by "factory trained technicians" - You may seek discounted service offers in your mailbox or on-line.

I don't know about blame-game.... who did and said what, too many separate hands involved.

6 Month old batteries can very well be wasted flat.
You need effective repair solutions, these don't always come cheap.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 26, 2025 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2025 | 06:00 PM
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I’m curious why you decided to start a new thread about the same problem? Just makes everyone (actually trying to help) go click and read, then come back. How does this help?

Myself and someone else gave you great advice but you don’t seem eager to follow it.

You will either get your hands dirty or pay someone else to. There is no magic answer.

Start on Amazon. Get a voltmeter that shows DC Volts and makes a sound when you have continuity. These are literally $10 and take 1 day to get.

Water got in the trunk. Pull out the lining and find everything that got wet. Clean every connection with white or green crusties on it.

Look up the things acting funny. If they have wires or fuses or relays or are on a SAM back there, find them and clean them.

To test fuses, put meter in continuity mode and check IN the fusebox by touching the connectors with fuse still in.

It is embarrassing that the trunk got flooded. But hiding that in another thread doesn’t help anyone. Water intrusion followed by massive electrical gremlins are OBVIOUSLY connected.

When car does the Funky Monkey, pull over and check voltage at battery. Then turn off and check again.

You CAN solve this. But it isn’t going to be a simple “oh, push the green button” sort of answer.
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