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I'm quite new to the scene and bought my W212 estate (S212) in March this year.
I'm slowly busy getting it to my taste and one of the things I would like to do is to install an amplifier and subwoofer to upgrade the sound (I do not have the H/K sound system in my car).
To do that I have to remove the paneling of the trunk but I could use some help to not break stuff.
I managed to find a document on the sedan version which I have attached but does someone have a source for this information on an estate version?
Next to that I could use some tips as where to find the amplifier (if I even have one) where I can tap into for the RCA/high input cables.
I am sure the wagon an sedan has same location for amplifier.
It is LEFT side of the trunk
Wait 5+ minutes after my post time, only then the photos will upload. Today MB server has laggy issue.
3 photos below :
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That's awesome, thank you very much! Is there perhaps any source on the wiring diagram of this amplifier? I would like to use the correct wires to tap into for my amplifier.
I only need either the RCA wiring or the "normal" speaker wires to connect with the High Input on my JBL amplifier.
I never mess with my stereo , me too old already hahahaha. I believed it uses fiber optic to deliver the audio signal and not RCA....but who knows .....till I see the real wiring diagram.
Give me ur VIN and I see what I can do for the wiring diagram specific for you car configuration.
It will take time to find it as I am good with Front SAM and Rear SAM wiring details, zero experience with audio system.
MB documents on the WIS/EPC is not friendly to use....
You go to lastvin.com and get ur data car using your vin.
Print the PDF and screen capture it except for your VIN, and post it here.
I need to see ur car option list.
You can darkened/hide all you like, except what I do not strike in red, do not hide it. It will be 3 pages long.
Sample below is my friend's W204 data card, screen capture. Wait 5+ minutes again...duggghhhhh
I have attached the PDF with the information from my VIN.
I can't make anything out of the AUDIO part, so I completely have no idea which audio installation I have. Maybe you know
527 COMAND DVD APS WITH NAVIGATION
I see that this is the normal audiosystem, so I guess there will be no amplifier, but I will have a look at the location you have send pictures of.
Just have find out how to remove all the paneling in the trunk to have more room.
And I guess I have Comand NTG 4.5?
I want to upgrade to Android Auto in the future.
Your sound system is very basic.
Are these the only speakers you got ?
If so for above 2 images, that meant you do not have any stand alone power amplifier, below image. Yours is built-in into the head unit.;
Mine has Code 810, thus I get the amplifiers and many more speakers , example a subwoofer which can not be place in a wagon without that panel thingy.
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I think the best bet is to take high power input for your amplifier, meaning you must tap from the speakers.
Attached wiring diagram and C.O.M.A.N.D general information.
It seems speakers 10 and 150 are called a woofer and speakers 170 are tweeters. Speakers 80 are also tweeters.
So yours is then U500. see below :
Which means your car does not get ( U500 - NOT VALID FOR ) the stand alone power amplifier of Code 810 or 811 sound system.
Mine has the Code 810.
I know its funny, why they call it Sound System, call it extra amplifier and speakers would be less confusing......LOL
If we read U500, we may confused that our car has zero sound system....LOL.
There is no cross-over used. Good for you. X35/1 and X35/2 are intermediate connectors. See both tweeter and woofer are simply connected without any crossover.
Supposedly this is your head unit by Part Number from EPC. https://www.ebay.com/itm/315410461691 <--------- use its high quality image to see the azz view of the head unit N40/3 COMAND.
Choose where is easier for you to tap the speaker wires.
It attached the X35-1 to X35-4 locations and assignments.
I think the rear of the COMAND is easier to tap the wires.
But I do not know or can see the connector numbers on the azz of the unit , except I know which one is A2 because of the fuse . I am sure they are labeled but on the plastic
and u must use torchlight to see.
Update us when all done......, it may be useful to other members and myself included.
Please take good photos of the A40/3 azz and all the connectors numbers if you are tapping audio signal from speakers A1 connector assy and how accurate is the wire colors
of the wiring schematic.
I am bad with interior trim removal, always break things of plastic
As promised here an update on this weekend.
It was quite some work to remove all paneling. Even found some water in the spare tire well.
You can see the wet spots, I have searched and found out that the little carpet/insulation under the ventilation grille on the right side is wet too, so I guess that's the cause.
The carpet marked with the red arrow is very wet, so that's why I suspect the ventilation grill to be the cause.
I see the partnumber on the last picture. What's the best way to solve this leakage? Just buy a new ventilation grill or is there any other way to fix this?
I can;t see anything wrong with it, but I have not taken it out, not sure how to do that without braking it.
But after drying everything I went on to remove all paneling to lay the powercable along with the high power input wires.
I tapped those into the back of the radio.
As S-Prihadi perfectly remarked I found the Orange(-brown) and Green(-brown) cables to be the front right and front left speaker cables, so I tapped into those.
I have build everything back and in around 10 hours from begin to end I was ready with fiddling and the subwoofer worked perfect!
Next I have planned to build a new enclosure as I have now used the old enclosure from my old car. This is to big and I want to place the subwoofer on the side left behind the wheel well where the trunknet is placed now.
To be continued.
VERY NICE, if this your personal garage with the lift .... I am drooling
That black plastic at bumper height is ventilation for when you close the door, you do not get air pressure to our ear or door bounce.
It should by right be rain proof. It has rubber flap as some sort of, as a one way valve for the air . its plastic body to car metal body have white seal.
.
Below : It seems your style of vent for right side is different than mine. Judging from its interior side look.
.
Check if your rubber flaps at the exterior side of the car, are still there and not stuck open somehow.
You need a super long size M10 socket for bumper removal. This one I got from USA, it is long enough. In Germany you surely can source equivalent easy right ?
================
That black vent item 50 : Your car LEFT side is not the same as RIGHT side
Your left side is the same as my BOTH sides.
.
Maybe your white seal is already bad, or the rubber flap went bad like below :
above and below : used part from ebay. This is the same P/N as your right side vent.
----------------
Did you manage to take photo of their connector numbers ?
------------
You seems to take main positive power from the front of the car ?
If so, where did you take positive power from and what kind of fuse you are using ?
You can actualy take power from Rear SAM too at Circuit 30g if only 30 amps, where when your car sleep, the power will be totally OFF and not always-live.
But if all wired already, keep it as is...
------------------
Do sort out your water leak, it may not be the vent or only the vent. It can be expensive if the leak wet out your rear SAM.
Most leak I read is from this black plastic rivet to metal body for sedan. I do not remember if for wagon.
Have fun.......
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Nov 10, 2025 at 08:19 AM.
VERY NICE, if this your personal garage with the lift .... I am drooling
That black plastic at bumper height is ventilation for when you close the door, you do not get air pressure to our ear or door bounce.
It should by right be rain proof. It has rubber flap as some sort of, as a one way valve for the air . its plastic body to car metal body have white seal.
.
Below : It seems your style of vent for right side is different than mine. Judging from its interior side look.
.
Check if your rubber flaps at the exterior side of the car, are still there and not stuck open somehow.
You need a super long size M10 socket for bumper removal. This one I got from USA, it is long enough. In Germany you surely can source equivalent easy right ?
================
That black vent item 50 : Your car LEFT side is not the same as RIGHT side
Your left side is the same as my BOTH sides.
.
Maybe your white seal is already bad, or the rubber flap went bad like below :
above and below : used part from ebay. This is the same P/N as your right side vent.
----------------
Did you manage to take photo of their connector numbers ?
------------
You seems to take main positive power from the front of the car ?
If so, where did you take positive power from and what kind of fuse you are using ?
You can actualy take power from Rear SAM too at Circuit 30g if only 30 amps, where when your car sleep, the power will be totally OFF and not always-live.
But if all wired already, keep it as is...
------------------
Do sort out your water leak, it may not be the vent or only the vent. It can be expensive if the leak wet out your rear SAM.
Most leak I read is from this black plastic rivet to metal body for sedan. I do not remember if for wagon.
Have fun.......
Thank you VERY much once again.
Sadly the garagespace is not my property but it's from our company so I'm alway free to use it. So that's a big plus!
To be honest I totally forgot to have a good look at the connectors on the radio. I just searched this forum for the right connections and found that for the 4.5 Comand I needed to use the orange and green wires and that worked.
Sorry about that.
I'm currently using 16mm² wire for powering the amp and condensator. I've taken this right to the main battery under the hood and made a 80A automatic fuse there.
I didn't want to use the secondary battery leads because I don't want to cause any troubles by causing power dips
The amp I used is 800W RMS class D so 16mm² should be more than enough following tje JBL specifications.
Thanks for the tips on the vents in the trunk. I see that the original partnumbers are no longer available via my Mercedes dealer and I don't want to buy these used.
So I will take off the bumper within a couple of weeks and have a look at the white rubbers, maybe I can just use a bit of sealant.
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Remove paneling in trunk of S212 (estate
