SmartKey Issues
No button on the keys work; the unlock, lock, trunk, or panic button, none work. Starting the car does not work. No lights on the gauge cluster at all when inserting or turning the key.
I ended up opening the car with the physical key blade and of course the alarm sounded, and I tried to start the car with the key but nothing happened, so I ended up opening the hood and disconnecting the 12V battery to stop the alarm for the time being.
The only indication of anything I saw was a small red flash when I pressed the lock button next to the panic button indicating the key battery is ok. Car battery is ok, hazards work and it's at 12.6 volts.
Do I need a new key?
Last edited by DBSeer; Nov 30, 2025 at 03:36 PM.
That being said, after reconnecting the battery, there is nothing at all when I insert/turn the key into the ignition switch, no indication of anything on the gauge cluster, no noise, nothing.
- Dealer says $700 and the car needs to be there (so I need to get it towed 30 miles to the dealer so more like $1000)
- Almost every independent locksmith I called said their couldn't do it, one guy said he could do it for $650 but I think he might be lying
Does anyone know of any mobile service that can do key replacements? Better yet something other than the stealership?
little red light typically is a sign key is functioning at some level
can aim at phone camera and check for IR flash when button pushed
2014 and later is dealer only
- Dealer says $700 and the car needs to be there (so I need to get it towed 30 miles to the dealer so more like $1000)
- Almost every independent locksmith I called said their couldn't do it, one guy said he could do it for $650 but I think he might be lying
Does anyone know of any mobile service that can do key replacements? Better yet something other than the stealership?
A locksmith might be able to code your fob if you have a 2014 or older car, and not all 2014s either. The process is somewhat involved to sync the fob with the car. Anything newer and you have to go to the dealer with proof of ownership.
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A locksmith might be able to code your fob if you have a 2014 or older car, and not all 2014s either. The process is somewhat involved to sync the fob with the car. Anything newer and you have to go to the dealer with proof of ownership.
Proof of ownership shouldn't be an issue but what's really annoying is they want the car at the dealer. Towing a fully functional car feels like such a waste just to have them to plug in their xentry tool for 30 seconds or whatever.
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Do you have a key to a different car you can try? Curious if by 2014 they just let the EIS spin no matter the key.
Do you have a key to a different car you can try? Curious if by 2014 they just let the EIS spin no matter the key.
I wish I had another key to troubleshoot with but I unfortunately only have one.




MB dealership network can provide timely service.

Perhaps you could use a $150 OBDII Launch scanner to research what your chassis is doing?
The solderless Electronic Ignition Slot would be a module to scrutinize for live status. At this stage we have gone passed the marginal KeylessGo trunk module.
Use a smart charger to help both your batteries not get flat.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 1, 2025 at 12:42 PM.
I will try one more thing though; there is a common issue with these key fobs that consists of BGA chip solder ball being loose, I am not super experienced with these tiny electronic repairs but I'll still give it a shot because worst case scenario, I go from all keys lost to all keys lost, best case, I now have another key that I might be able to do drive to the dealer with.




I will try one more thing though; there is a common issue with these key fobs that consists of BGA chip solder ball being loose, I am not super experienced with these tiny electronic repairs but I'll still give it a shot because worst case scenario, I go from all keys lost to all keys lost, best case, I now have another key that I might be able to do drive to the dealer with.

The instrument cluster does not need to be fully ON for the chassis to already be powered up.
The scanner CAN-D talks to the SAM's and CAN-B that are always powered ON anyway.






