Replacing Chassis Control Module
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Joined: Jan 2025
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Replacing Chassis Control Module
A while back, my 2011 E550 4Matic developed a short in one of the struts making it so that it was stuck in "Sport" mode. Not the end of the world, but I don't like it when things don't work like they should. I traced the issue to the chassic control module itself here.
I just ordered a replacement module ($180.XX delivered for a major computer module is pretty OK in my experience!). I'm also having to fix some issues on the pneumatic side. All sorts of fun going on there.
The strut being stuck in sport mode is not the end of the world, and it's drivable like that. Plus, I don't want to introduce any new and potentially unknown variables. Single variate testing so to speak. So I'll get the pre-fuse box installed, get that working, and once the thing can move under its own power without cringing at every crack in the pavement, I'll move onto the shorting strut.
Replacing the module is a 10 minute exercise, but it looks like it requires calibration. I have a scanner capable of performing that task, but I keep reading where it's annoyingly stubborn about not retaining calibrations. The only thing I've seen people do to get it to stick is bang their heads against it over and over again until it does. Doesn't seem like a controlled way of doing things... Does anyone have any clues for exactly what's required to make this work the way it's supposed to?
Additionally, there is a point in said calibration that requires inclination angles. I have a tool to get those angles, what I don't have is the knowledge for where exactly to take the measurements. Does anyone have a bead on where in what literature to find that particular bit of trivia?
Another issue I've read is that it can take a ponderously long time to accomplish this calibration due to slow and laggy responses between scanners and the actual suspension movement. It sounds like the car has to be ignition on/engine off to perform the task, and battery draining is a concern. I don't have one of those big battery maintenance carts, but I do have a Jeep and jumper cables. Any reason that's not a viable low buck solution?
I just ordered a replacement module ($180.XX delivered for a major computer module is pretty OK in my experience!). I'm also having to fix some issues on the pneumatic side. All sorts of fun going on there.
The strut being stuck in sport mode is not the end of the world, and it's drivable like that. Plus, I don't want to introduce any new and potentially unknown variables. Single variate testing so to speak. So I'll get the pre-fuse box installed, get that working, and once the thing can move under its own power without cringing at every crack in the pavement, I'll move onto the shorting strut.
Replacing the module is a 10 minute exercise, but it looks like it requires calibration. I have a scanner capable of performing that task, but I keep reading where it's annoyingly stubborn about not retaining calibrations. The only thing I've seen people do to get it to stick is bang their heads against it over and over again until it does. Doesn't seem like a controlled way of doing things... Does anyone have any clues for exactly what's required to make this work the way it's supposed to?
Additionally, there is a point in said calibration that requires inclination angles. I have a tool to get those angles, what I don't have is the knowledge for where exactly to take the measurements. Does anyone have a bead on where in what literature to find that particular bit of trivia?
Another issue I've read is that it can take a ponderously long time to accomplish this calibration due to slow and laggy responses between scanners and the actual suspension movement. It sounds like the car has to be ignition on/engine off to perform the task, and battery draining is a concern. I don't have one of those big battery maintenance carts, but I do have a Jeep and jumper cables. Any reason that's not a viable low buck solution?
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,555
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
smooth power supply
I like your Jeep powerplant work around in a vented outdoor setting.
Begin this with fully charged up MB batteries because they are voltage sensitive... you want to avoid surging a low 11.5V chassis up to 14.4V running car.
I would connect both then startup Jeep. This will let voltage ride up without current spike.
Begin this with fully charged up MB batteries because they are voltage sensitive... you want to avoid surging a low 11.5V chassis up to 14.4V running car.
I would connect both then startup Jeep. This will let voltage ride up without current spike.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 6,476
Likes: 6,427
From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
A while back, my 2011 E550 4Matic developed a short in one of the struts making it so that it was stuck in "Sport" mode. Not the end of the world, but I don't like it when things don't work like they should. I traced the issue to the chassic control module itself here.
I just ordered a replacement module ($180.XX delivered for a major computer module is pretty OK in my experience!). I'm also having to fix some issues on the pneumatic side. All sorts of fun going on there.
The strut being stuck in sport mode is not the end of the world, and it's drivable like that. Plus, I don't want to introduce any new and potentially unknown variables. Single variate testing so to speak. So I'll get the pre-fuse box installed, get that working, and once the thing can move under its own power without cringing at every crack in the pavement, I'll move onto the shorting strut.
Replacing the module is a 10 minute exercise, but it looks like it requires calibration. I have a scanner capable of performing that task, but I keep reading where it's annoyingly stubborn about not retaining calibrations. The only thing I've seen people do to get it to stick is bang their heads against it over and over again until it does. Doesn't seem like a controlled way of doing things... Does anyone have any clues for exactly what's required to make this work the way it's supposed to?
Additionally, there is a point in said calibration that requires inclination angles. I have a tool to get those angles, what I don't have is the knowledge for where exactly to take the measurements. Does anyone have a bead on where in what literature to find that particular bit of trivia?
Another issue I've read is that it can take a ponderously long time to accomplish this calibration due to slow and laggy responses between scanners and the actual suspension movement. It sounds like the car has to be ignition on/engine off to perform the task, and battery draining is a concern. I don't have one of those big battery maintenance carts, but I do have a Jeep and jumper cables. Any reason that's not a viable low buck solution?
I just ordered a replacement module ($180.XX delivered for a major computer module is pretty OK in my experience!). I'm also having to fix some issues on the pneumatic side. All sorts of fun going on there.
The strut being stuck in sport mode is not the end of the world, and it's drivable like that. Plus, I don't want to introduce any new and potentially unknown variables. Single variate testing so to speak. So I'll get the pre-fuse box installed, get that working, and once the thing can move under its own power without cringing at every crack in the pavement, I'll move onto the shorting strut.
Replacing the module is a 10 minute exercise, but it looks like it requires calibration. I have a scanner capable of performing that task, but I keep reading where it's annoyingly stubborn about not retaining calibrations. The only thing I've seen people do to get it to stick is bang their heads against it over and over again until it does. Doesn't seem like a controlled way of doing things... Does anyone have any clues for exactly what's required to make this work the way it's supposed to?
Additionally, there is a point in said calibration that requires inclination angles. I have a tool to get those angles, what I don't have is the knowledge for where exactly to take the measurements. Does anyone have a bead on where in what literature to find that particular bit of trivia?
Another issue I've read is that it can take a ponderously long time to accomplish this calibration due to slow and laggy responses between scanners and the actual suspension movement. It sounds like the car has to be ignition on/engine off to perform the task, and battery draining is a concern. I don't have one of those big battery maintenance carts, but I do have a Jeep and jumper cables. Any reason that's not a viable low buck solution?
Get Riden 30 amps programmable bench power supply, its DC is VERY CLEAN.
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005010747574259.html Get completre unit, not only the head.
