When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
there are couple threads to deal with the digital HK audio amplifier. -- A: integrated digital fiber to analog amplifier -- B: power supply filters
-- B - POWER FILTRATION CAPS:
The 3x 16V caps are 3300uF each in parallel for a total of 9900uF filtration.
You want to bump that to a safer 25V (or 35V standard values) - The issue is the capacitor physical size versus what room is available.
The result does not need to be pretty... lay down caps glued on their side is fine. Needless to say what the pins polarity (+/-)
> HOW...:
-- You best need to first open up the Amp to workout what caps you're going to buy.
-- You can try to bump up the 3300uF to a higher filtration... 4700uF Ea ?
I dont know much about electronic (never had any training in this field), but Im good at following instruction. So to recap the options: I will order a 25V (or 35V if I cant find the 25V), 4700uF? Will the 4700uF change the sound quality? I only want to make the amp last longer without potential future break down
I dont know much about electronic (never had any training in this field), but Im good at following instruction.
So to recap the options: I will order a 25V (or 35V if I cant find the 25V), 4700uF?
Will the 4700uF change the sound quality?
I only want to make the amp last longer without potential future break down
You want to upgrade Audio amplifier quality to prevent headaches.
Understand you need to know what you're doing to make decisions you are comfortable with. Choices are personal :
-- When you upgrade your caps voltage insulation from 16V to 25V size likely bigger based on quality/price (Nichikon, panasonic,...)
-- When you upgrade filtration capacity from 3300uF to 4700uF size likely bigger.
-- This will require creativity to fit bigger caps inside. Then just do voltage upgrade but not the capacity ie. 25V 3300uF
The power supply filter do not change output sound frequency band. (150Hz to 17kHz).
> 2 STEPS:
How about splitting this in two steps ?
1- Do the heatsink surface polishing control
- size up your new caps order.
- assemble everything back to use until new caps show up.
2- Sometimes later deal with the new caps upgrade at your convenience.
>> Disconnect batteries (-) terminals before disconnecting the Amp unit out.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 15, 2026 at 04:28 AM.
among the links I posted here, which one is the best one to buy?. thank you
Here is the No1 gem: superior specs 👍
Good selections: this is a great CAPACITOR UPGRADE for cost of peanuts.
Serious voltage margin
better capacity
better heat range
excellent serial resistance
Long service life included
This is a world of difference compared to stock caps!
The physical size is unlikely to match perfectly, no big deal!
You may need to get a bit creative to fit these caps inside...
Use epoxy to glue flat on the board ??
If you really have to, you have the option to use 2x instead of 3x 4700uF/25V still better than 3x 3300.uF/16V stock.
Be sure to match polarity (-) during connection.
These Caps have +/- side
Quality HEATSINK surfaces are machined smooth...
these are rough from metal casting: WTF!!!
It's up to you to assess the roughness and surface bumps & inperfections & edges where IC chips meet.
Heat is transfered by perfect contact.
Let's see the surfaces you find.
while your parts are coming (including thermal paste) you may want to consider the rear deck woofer amplifier.
I don't remember all the specifics besides that it's built in the same way with the same chips. I don't recall if it uses 16V caps but it does have the same unmachined heatsink-chip surfaces.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 16, 2026 at 05:23 PM.
Hi CaliBenz
I need your quick opinion:
So my car is 2016 E350 (facelifted model) base RWD. Today I disassembled the car, removed the amp in the trunk, and to my surprised the amp's internal looks totally different from your pictures. Instead of 3 capacitors of 16v 3300uF.... my pcb board has 5 capacitors of 25V 2200uF?!. I wonder if this is the upgraded design by MB?. The next question is I bought 5 (lucky me) capacitors of 25V 4700uF. Since the pcb board is out, should I just replace the newer caps or leave it the way it is? thank you. I need quick opinion before I reassemble and put it back...
It's good to see the "16V caps" issue being resolved in later MY'16 amplifier.
> FUTHERMORE...
Other small collection of hard-working HOT capacitors are in the tank fuel pump control module near the rear passenger-side bench/threshold end.
This is a CAN-C VIP module... deserves attention & old caps maintenance.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 20, 2026 at 04:57 PM.
These 5 caps fit into a slot/space in the amp cover. I dont know if that specific slot (amp cover) has the cooling capability, function. the new caps are 1/3 longer, and wider. They (installed) will not fit into the slot on the amp cover. A local TV repair shop suggested I relocate these caps into a different location, extense by wires. Im not an electronic expert, but by logic it sounds ok to me.... what do you think? should I relocate the caps to different area by wires? any pros and cos for that idea?
These 5 caps fit into a slot/space in the amp cover. I dont know if that specific slot (amp cover) has the cooling capability, function. the new caps are 1/3 longer, and wider. They (installed) will not fit into the slot on the amp cover. A local TV repair shop suggested I relocate these caps into a different location, extense by wires. Im not an electronic expert, but by logic it sounds ok to me.... what do you think? should I relocate the caps to different area by wires? any pros and cos for that idea?
Well now this is creating troubles where you had none with 25V caps.
I don't mind extending caps connections with wires, its a very valid way.
Question since you are not doing this yourself: is this necessary with already 25V caps, not found to be leaking??
("if it works don't fuss with it" is also valid statement)
I kind of vote towards simplicity: pass ?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 20, 2026 at 08:36 PM.
Like you said earlier, these original caps are 10 years old, chance are they will leak sometime in the near future. I also already bought these caps, might as well make use of it. Also the amp already removed and disassembled, I dont want to have to disassemble this area again, if not need. The only thing I concerned is will these relocated caps stable enough, move around inside and shorten the components life span... I will keep this car for an unforseenable future, that's why I wanted to preventative fixing up everything. I will pick up the amp tomorrow....
Last edited by nguyenphananh; Mar 20, 2026 at 08:57 PM.
Like you said earlier, these original caps are 10 years old, chance are they will leak sometime in the near future. I also already bought these caps, might as well make use of it. Also the amp already removed and disassembled, I dont want to have to disassemble this area again, if not need. The only thing I concerned is will these relocated caps stable enough, move around inside and shorten the components life span... I will keep this car for an unforseenable future, that's why I wanted to preventative fixing up everything. I will pick up the amp tomorrow....
It's totally normal: the caps will need to be glued down on the board - Use automotive RTV silicone due to heat level.
It won't look neat like a "show off piece" but should work just fine. 50Yrs ago, before the days of printed circuit boards, electronic parts used to be all wired in.
Pay attention that Polarities (+/-) pins need to match before/after.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 21, 2026 at 01:00 AM.
picked up and installed the amp today, so far so good: Works as it should, will pay attention for the coming days and weeks for any abnormality.
1 More project done!. From the look of this amp, I think MB already updated the design for the amp, so no need to disassemble and mess around with the subwoofer amp, unless it break down....
picked up and installed the amp today, so far so good: Works as it should, will pay attention for the coming days and weeks for any abnormality.
1 More project done!. From the look of this amp, I think MB already updated the design for the amp, so no need to disassemble and mess around with the subwoofer amp, unless it break down....
Main Amp complete back to work... Nice!
Woofer amp has its own little fan.
If the heat from the integrated chips is transferred to the heatsink then it can get vented.
picked up and installed the amp today, so far so good: Works as it should, will pay attention for the coming days and weeks for any abnormality.
1 More project done!. From the look of this amp, I think MB already updated the design for the amp, so no need to disassemble and mess around with the subwoofer amp, unless it break down....
