Rain/Light Sensor Woes (Solved)
So, I lived with this until last week. I looked into getting a new rain sensor. I looked up my car in the WIS and the rain/lighting part # was A2079013700 (for my exact VIN 2013 US 4MATIC E350 sedan). I wanted to buy a new one, not a used one. I contacted my supplier (a well known Euro supplier in the US) and told them that their website claimed that my car did not use this part. They looked it up themselves land they understood that it actually did, so they sent it.
I got the part, and I pulled the old one out after confirming that it had an electrical fault which showed up in the quicktest of Xentry (with Openport). This was fairly easy to do with trim tools. To my surprise, the P/N I was replacing was A2079012200. Apparently (?) this part was superseded by the -3700 part (?). No problem, or so I thought, I’ll install it. These parts are seemingly physically identical except for the label. But that doesn't make them identical!
So, I installed the new -3700 part and hooked up Xentry thinking that I would need to calibrate it. To my surprise, I could not find where to calibrate the part. Even worse, the car now reported in the instrument cluster that automatic lighting was INOP (the lights were stuck on when the car was in “auto”). The rain sensor, however, worked fine.
I finally found the sensor in Xentry, and the part claimed to have been “calibrated” for RAIN and LIGHTING, but not CODED. Xentry wanted me to do online SCN. Obviously, I wasn’t going to be able to do that. Now I NEVER deliberately calibrated lighting or rain sensing for this new part. I never even saw any place to calibrate it. I have read that once calibrated, you never get a chance to do it again - don’t know how true that is, and doing voodoo like virginizing, etc. is quite beyond me at the moment.
So, I mulled things over. I ordered a used -2200 sensor on an auction website. I installed that this afternoon and the part worked, no calibration, worked fine for lighting and for rain sensing. All good again!
So, what exactly happened? I don’t really know. I have considered that some previous customer may have previously messed with the new “-3700” part (the box wasn’t sealed, don't know if it should have been), and left it in this state when it was returned to the supplier. HOWEVER, I cannot prove any of this.
In any event, replacing the part with the EXACT SAME PART # (-2200), USED, from a working car, worked fine for me with no calibration or coding. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY. AND THE COLOR OF YOUR WINDSHIELD MIGHT MATTER. It is possible that the -3700 part COULD work to replace the -2200 part, but it MIGHT require SCN coding. Looks like I have a "spare" now, so it this ever happens again (better not), I may be able to have the 3700 part coded by a larger indy locally so that I can salvage my 80 clams although it probably wouldn't be worth it.
MAN. Is ANYTHING easy with this car?




You wondered about something easy in this car... soldering loose oxidized pins saves time with absolutely no coding.
The next troublesome modules are KeylessGo and EIS.
They are responsible goofy keyless operation and batteries "drained by parking".
I'll never touch an Audi because the engineering is just so bad to the point of being actively hostile to the end user. I'm pretty much over BMW; the new ones require subscriptions for everything, before that they require an elaborate computer setup to wash the windows, and before that... Before that they're OK again, but probably older than I'll be dealing with going forward without being old enough to be worth dealing with. This is my first Mercedes. I rarely keep a car long enough to renew the plates, and this will be only the second car to make it that long in a long time. I'm not bored with it yet though. Not at all. I actively prefer driving it most days, and as long as the computer replacement doesn't put up too much of a fight, I think it'll continue leading the fleet until something happens to it... Or something better comes along, but the bar is pretty high right now, and it's the bleeding edge of acceptable modernity for me.




I'll never touch an Audi because the engineering is just so bad to the point of being actively hostile to the end user. I'm pretty much over BMW; the new ones require subscriptions for everything, before that they require an elaborate computer setup to wash the windows, and before that... Before that they're OK again, but probably older than I'll be dealing with going forward without being old enough to be worth dealing with. This is my first Mercedes. I rarely keep a car long enough to renew the plates, and this will be only the second car to make it that long in a long time. I'm not bored with it yet though. Not at all. I actively prefer driving it most days, and as long as the computer replacement doesn't put up too much of a fight, I think it'll continue leading the fleet until something happens to it... Or something better comes along, but the bar is pretty high right now, and it's the bleeding edge of acceptable modernity for me.
Do you want to troubleshoot your active suspensions computer ??
That's with magnetic dampeners right? Not the Airmatic ?
I've never seen its circuit board... do you have the wiring diagram to see how things are connected?




Coding example on this page.
Mercedes-Benz E63 AMG Wagon (2012-13) Note: For cars with (Code 238, 266, 269, 271, 476, 513, 608, 610, 628, 863, or 865)
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...Ayu1x0Vu6XMwT8
and another
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...bm64qrMbGVt7k-
Last edited by Baltistyle; Mar 15, 2026 at 06:06 PM.


