hello all
I need to change my fuel filter on my 2011 E350 convertible.
The filter doesn't look the same. nor can I find anyone that looks even close to it.
To be honest, nothing looks like it should
The fuel filter is suppose to be on the drivers side, yet, to me that looks like the fuel pump because it has what looks to be a gas line coming out of the tops of it.
On the passenger side is what I think is the fuel filter ( tag on it says Delphi A 204 5403507 and has a mercedes logo on it ) Yet it has different electrical connections on it that any I've seen online.

Nothing looks the same as any pictures I've seen or videos online.
No part searches give me anything that looks like what I have.

Can anyone point me in the next direction to look
Thanks
Kip

 

What do your modules look like (pics)?

Each of these modules has more than one function, so calling it a "fuel filter" or a "fuel pump" doesn't necessarily get you in the right place.

You have a "fuel delivery module" on the passenger side, and a "suction jet pump" on the driver's side. They may both have a level sensor, and the one that pumps fuel up towards the engine also has a fuel pressure sensor which may also have other functions. There is also a cross-feed pump to send fuel to the other side of the saddle tank. Inside one of these modules, lies the fuel filter. I think the suction jet pump has the filter integrated into it.

Look at the EPC or the parts section of a Mercedes dealer's website, plug in your car, and look at your options. You can also just call a dealer's parts counter and ask for the exact part numbers of those two things to make sure you get the right ones.

Having done this before, you might as well replace them both at the same time. They are past due to crack so you should replace them both while you're in there. You have to fish fuel lines back and forth anyway so you're going to be opening both sections (sounds like you already have) anyway...

 

In my 2011 the fuel filter is part of the entire fuel pump assembly. For how inexpensive it is you just replace the whole darn thing and have a little bit of insurance that your fuel pump is not going to go out

 

I believe the fuel filter is part of the sending unit, part # A2044701494 which is on the drivers side. In order to replace this part I need to open up the fuel pump side too,
If any one knows for sure where the fuel filter is I'd appreciate it. I can't seem to find the answer online. I have a 2011 E350 convertible.
thank you

 

There are fueling components under each side of the back seat. I would replace these in pairs, not separately; the fuel tank almost empty. Remove your rear seat bottom, then the metal cover over the pump and filter. Find the part numbers on the top of each device. That will ensure you get the correct part numbers. There are good YouTube vids showing how to do this removal and installation of the new parts. Do it wrong nd you could have a mess and problems on your hands, but it's pretty easy to do correctly and have no problems. Take your time, have extra rags on hand to keep the gasoline out of your car. Use mechanic's gloves to keep the gasoline off your hands.

Shop around for Genuine MB parts. There is a substantial price difference between parts sources, even between dealerships that sell online.When ordering, give them your VIN # and ask them to confirm that you have the correct part for your car.

 

Did you read my post above?

 

I did read it. I was able to find the part number of my filter. Its a combo gauge and filter. Looks like i'll have to open both sides 1) fuel pump to remove the hoses that go to the filter. and 2) remove the filter. A am waiting on parts now, but I have the wires and gas line disonnected. I've blown out the area to remove dust and dirt. So I'm waiting on the ring removal tool and the filter. Now that I know what Im dealing with it looks to be a pretty straight forward job from here. The only thing I don't know yet is how to unclip the filter hoses from the fuel pump. I'm hoping this will be obvious once I get the new filter.
Thanks to everyone who made comments.
PS:
I am chasing a lean fuel error code. I got a tank of regular gas and I thought that was the problem. I finally got that out of the tank and I filled with premium. The code did not go away. So many say it could be the filter. Since the car has 100,000 miles on it, changing the filter seems like a good place to start. Hopefully this will solve my lean condition ( on both banks )

 

sorry I can't help with tank filter parts but yes 100kMi you're on time for new MB filter.

What are your LTFT at idle ?
What is your fuel rail pressure?

don't try different fuels... only one works well: premium everything for Mercedes.

 

On my 2014 C350 with flex fuel, the fuel filter change interval is at 150,000 miles or 15 years. Not sure if that interval is the same for a 2011 E350. @TimC300 would be a good guy to ask.

 

Final wrap up:
I was having a problem with my 2011 E350 W212 ( 110,000 miles ) . Its was running rough and was sluggish. Check engine light on.
Reading the codes the scanner said both banks were running lean. I thought the problem was a tank of regular gas I put in by mistake.
I drained out what I could, but I also drove it until the low fuel light came on. I then put 10 gallons of premium in.
I was hoping the problems would go away with new gas, but it didn't
I couldn't figure out what was causing the problem but since both banks were lean I thought a good start would be a new fuel filter.
This is not an easy task in a E350.

I had to take the back seat out, and I had to remove the filter and the fuel pump because I had to connect the hoses from the new filter to the pump.
The filter in the w212 is both a filter and a gas gauge . It was hard to find the correct part but luckily the part number was on the filter.
Getting them out was a chore. I needed to buy a tool to get the ring off that hold the pump and filter in place.
I highly recommend buying the tool made for Mercedes. ( $17 Amazon )
This ring is on so tight I had to use a 24inch breaker bar.. It took a lot of force to get it to let loose. I don't think i would have gotten it to move without the proper tool.
I had 1/2 tank of gas and the level was pretty high. If you have the ability to get the tank level do less than 1/4 you would be better off as the level of the gas in the tank was pretty high for a 1/2 tank.
Once the rings were off things were pretty easy. I did tie a wire around the old hose so I could pull the new hoses back to the pump. I'm glad I did this as
it took me a few tries to get the hoses thru the tank and to the pump.
Putting it back together once the new hoses were connected to the pump was pretty easy.
The car started right up, and ran well.

I looked at the codes and I have a permanent lean bank code still. A system erase won't get rid of that.
I also had a fuel pump code open circuit that I was able to erase.
I took the car on a 10 mile drive and its running great. No check engine light.
I'm not sure how long it will take for the permanent codes to go away.
Right now I'm pretty happy . Car is running great with no check engine light on.
I've owned the car for 2 years . It has 110,000 miles on it. I have no idea if the filter was ever changed
so attacking this problem by changing the filter made a lot of sense due to its high mileage .

I'm happy that the filter seems to have been my problem.
Thanks to all who offered comments.
Kip

 

Well done, now you're back on the road with full power output!!

Is your fuel tank filter location...

1. on the driver side (Bank2 /AC Compressor)
2. or the passenger side (Bank1 /ALT.)

Some of these W212 sport 4x fuel pumps... 2 in-tank and 2 up-front.

 

What scan tool are you using? (Sorry if you already mentioned it.) But there are “permanent” codes that can only be erased using XENTRY. iCarsoft, LAUNCH, Autel and others may not be able to erase them.

 

I have a icarsoft mb3.0 I didn't think it could erase a permanant code

 

I have that as well, though I don’t use it any more. iCarsoft has really fallen behind. You may be able to use a Mercedes-specific LAUNCH scanner, but XENTRY will 99.999% work. I once had a problem with a permanent code that iCarsoft could not erase and had to use my XENTRY setup.

XENTRY is powerful, but cumbersome in my opinion. Still, it is a necessary tool if you are going to DIY your Mercedes. For an easily portable scan tool, most people here will recommend the LAUNCH X431 Creader Elite 2.0 BENZ.

Mercedes: https://kingbolentool.com/products/l...c-tool-scanner

Benz, BMW, Audi (BBA): https://kingbolentool.com/products/2...-bidirectional

 

after driving it some today the CEL came back on. I have a large evap leak. Po 451 Now I have to find that. I have a strange plastic rectangular box in the same wheel well the charcoal canister is ( the canidster is on the rear of the well, the rectanguar part is on the front of the well ) Its odd, because It has 2 lines going to it, I went to a junkyard and looked at 3 different benz's and none of them had this part.
I have no idea what it is. That did have a nipple to the smaller hose that was broken. I taped it out and put a brass nipple into it, and connected the hose up, But I still have the large leak error. I am going to try to smoke test it myself, see what I find. I would try to preplace the rectangular piece but i have no idea what it is.
Kip

 

Final recap.
The fuel filter solved the lean banks. the permanent code went away.
I still had a large evap leak and a permanent code.
I decided to smoke test it and decided it was easiest to go from the engine back. I took off the line for the tank to the purge valve. Man it was tight. Pullin on it to get it off the rubber elbow that was in between the line and the purge valve broke in half. It didn't take much effort to break it so I decided to get a hose to connect the 2 and that solved the evap leak !!! I didn't even have to smoke test it.
Now with the evap leak fixed and the new fuel filter all the codes are gone. The engine smoothed out and engine has much much more power. Been driving if for a week and all it well. Engine runs great and no CEL. I am a happy camper .
Thank you to all that added comments
Kip

 

Just to make sure I have that right, the purge line to the tank was cracked?

 

no t. there was a rubber elbow that connected the line from the gas tank charcoal canister to the purge valve. That was cracked. The elbow

 

Good for you ,I'm happy as it was just a fuel filter causing all havoc .