When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all,
Last Friday we had some freezing rain and during the drive the car's dashboard lit up with Christmas lights and this was the main code I got when I checked. There are other codes as well, but this appears the most after resetting and checking. I've tested the battery and fuse #20 in the engine bay which are both fine, just wondering if anyone has ever dealt with a similar problem? The car itself drives fine other than the odometer not showing my current speed or the stiff steering due to abs light. I've attached as many pictures of the last 3 days that I have. W212 2014 E350.
Hi all,
Last Friday we had some freezing rain and during the drive the car's dashboard lit up with Christmas lights and this was the main code I got when I checked. There are other codes as well, but this appears the most after resetting and checking. I've tested the battery and fuse #20 in the engine bay which are both fine, just wondering if anyone has ever dealt with a similar problem? The car itself drives fine other than the odometer not showing my current speed or the stiff steering due to abs light. I've attached as many pictures of the last 3 days that I have. W212 2014 E350.
The No1 issue here is your scanner is not helping anything.... "NETWORK..."
You have a "Xmas-Tree" display: A severe condition... do not drive this car.
Get an MB Launch scanner or better.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 21, 2026 at 02:28 PM.
The No1 issue here is your scanner is not helping anything.... "NETWORK..."
You have a "Xmas-Tree" display: A severe condition... do not drive this car.
Get an MB Launch scanner or better.
Hey sorry for the late reply, was out of town. I got the car scanned with the following:
These were the modules without issues or disappeared after a clear:
Car seems to be the same but with a new symptom, when initially started, it doesn't recognize the brake is being depressed to shift into reverse, but brakes fine when driven (took 10+ tries to get it to shift for a test drive down the driveway) but has since been parked. The only other things of note would be the front left mirror cap cover (with signal light) is a third party (replaced 2 months ago) as someone hit my original while I was parked. I disconnected it to test but the codes still remained. The other thing would be there is a crack in the windshield wiper fluid reservoir (this will be fixed once this electronics nightmare is fixed).
============
" Hi S-Prihadi, I've seen a lot of your threads in the W212 section and am wondering if you could provide some insight on this issue I'm currently having with my 2014 facelift W212. All the details are in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...#&gid=1&pid=17 My 2nd post has more details for the codes that I got from an automotive shop. I'm waiting for my launch creader to arrive so I can try to diagnose what I can hopefully at home, otherwise try to find an electrician. I have checked the driver and passenger side CAN BUS blocks and found no evidence of water corrosion, and also cleaned the ESP connector to no avail. I haven't reached the canbus blocks further down on the passenger side as I believe I need to remove the seat to access them. Thank you. "
============
This is a classic short circuit of the CAN BUS wires at the distibution block due to water or a can bus wire set short circuit somewhere else. Seems like it.
So you need to find them under the seats.
You need a diagnotician and not merely an electrician.
When you get the baby launch or better bigger Launch with CAN BUS topo, scan it and report back.
If you have not read this post of mine ( as lots of CAN BUS documents ), which shows also mylimited knowledge on the CAN BUS actual troubleshooting......I read a lot yes,
actual troubleshooting not much since I do not have CAN BUS issue........ https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-topology.html
Before troubleshooting, you must know CAN BUS topo/wiring, hence reading is the only way to know it.
I do not like people who like to be spoon fed, you must read a lot.
If you want to DIY this, you need a low cost scope capable of seeing CAN BUS signal, just to make sure it is not distorted.
DMM ( digital multimeter ) can not see distorted CAN BUS signal, it can only tell very out of voltage signal.
The worst part of this kind of troubleshooting is the amount of teardown involved to access the suspected module/s, to keep it OFF the CAN BUS.
Had some interesting findings today so I guess I'm starting to get a bit closer.
Found a corroded ground in the right side of the trunk, so now I'm wondering if the blind spot sensors behind the bumper cover have corroded as well.
I checked the Chassis CAN and found 3 plugs were carrying 0 voltage, but the other 4 had the expected values of 1.5-2.5 and 2.5-3.5V. I unplugged the ESP module and checked and nothing changed so I guess it's not shorting the circuit.
I checked the passenger side and found a chafed cable but cleaning it up and covering it with electrical tape did not seem to fix the issue. I'll apply a proper shrink wrap fix later today.
Now it's permanently stuck in this mode of not shifting at all, which sucks as I wanted to send it to a shop who would look at it. Also the fan sounds like a jet engine and the air conditioning system only seems to work at the highest level. All these electrical gremlins makes me feel like there's an Ecu problem but I'll know when the shop gets it or the scanner arrives. I'm not sure sure if I can even put it into neutral to get towed if it doesn't detect anything when I push the steering stalk.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
