About to order a quite heavily equipped 220D. Some questions
10-13-2016, 02:25 PM
#1
About to order a quite heavily equipped 220D. Some questions
Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and completely new to Mercedes (been driving Volvo for 15 years) so I apologize in advance for any stupid questions I might fire away 
Earlier last week i went to the MB dealer and took a brand new W213 for a test drive. I was completely sold. Truth be told, I was basically sold on the car already before, but the price I got from the dealer tipped me over the edge, and I haven't been getting much sleep since then I've built a custom car on the MB website a few times but when I sat down with the dealer I was shocked to receive a price almost €10.000 (10-11K USD) below the price I was expecting compared to the price the website gave me - and this is where I actually made up my mind to go for it.
The build we did includes:
Since the price I got was way below what I expected (there were no negotiations at all) I consider adding some of the following:
Burmester 3D, wireless phone charging, illuminated door panel, air balance
As I've never previously bought a brand new customized car of any kind I'm curious about what I can negotiate on. Should I just negotiate for price fair and square (and how much) or is it better to try negotiate for any of the extra equipment? What kind of addons or features are they more likely to add without extra charge if it would mean that they can seal the deal? I don't want to come off as arrogant, but at the same time, I want to make sure we both walk away feeling we made a good deal.
Also, I'm having a terribly difficult time deciding on color. I'm considering black metallic or the dark gray metallic
Earlier last week i went to the MB dealer and took a brand new W213 for a test drive. I was completely sold. Truth be told, I was basically sold on the car already before, but the price I got from the dealer tipped me over the edge, and I haven't been getting much sleep since then
I've built a custom car on the MB website a few times but when I sat down with the dealer I was shocked to receive a price almost €10.000 (10-11K USD) below the price I was expecting compared to the price the website gave me - and this is where I actually made up my mind to go for it. The build we did includes:
- P3 with keyless-go
- Multibeam LED headlights
- AMG exterior + AMG night
- AMG interior
- AMG 20" alloys (although I consider following the dealer's advice to go for the 18 or 19" AMG:s instead for better comfort and less headaches since I drive on slightly bumpy dirt roads quite frequently)
- Air body control
- Panoramic roof
- Burmester sound system (the "cheap" version not the 3D setup which costs another €3-4.000 or so)
- Acoustic package
- Trailer hitch
Since the price I got was way below what I expected (there were no negotiations at all) I consider adding some of the following:
Burmester 3D, wireless phone charging, illuminated door panel, air balance
As I've never previously bought a brand new customized car of any kind I'm curious about what I can negotiate on. Should I just negotiate for price fair and square (and how much) or is it better to try negotiate for any of the extra equipment? What kind of addons or features are they more likely to add without extra charge if it would mean that they can seal the deal? I don't want to come off as arrogant, but at the same time, I want to make sure we both walk away feeling we made a good deal.
Also, I'm having a terribly difficult time deciding on color. I'm considering black metallic or the dark gray metallic
Last edited by Snibbe; 10-13-2016 at 03:00 PM.
10-14-2016, 10:05 AM
#2
Member
If planning on keeping the car, I suggest non-metallic paint. Metallic paints, even with today's nano coatings, do not last forever unless garaged consistently both at home and at work. If garaged, properly waxed, cleaned every couple of weeks, then metallic paint is fine.
I would also reconsider the 20 inch rims. Just looking for trouble. Despite their wonderful curb appeal, they also get curb rash quite easily, too. Just stay with the 18 inch wheels, you will like yourself and your car better with them, especially with the air suspension and acoustic package. Why defeat the advantage of these options with noisy, stiff riding (and expensive) low profile tires?
Although the car will feel slightly less responsive in your hands than if equipped with 20 inch, very low profile tires, in reality the car will be just very nearly as quick in the corners and overall responsiveness does not suffer very much at all. The only reason I would consider 19 or 20 inch wheels would be driving 200+ kph everyday on the Autobahn where the difference would be real. At normal road speeds low profile is no advantage.
Prices are just numbers. Pick a number for starting, and then drop 10,000? Send both your cousins, don't worry, they will get the same treatment. Remember, the sales people are professionals. They have a lot of tricks to get you do what they expect you do to do: buy a car at their price and make you feel good while doing it.
As for negotiations, "WE" never made a good deal happen. Their job is to sell cars. They will have many opportunities to make a good deal for themselves with other customers, but you need to make a good deal for yourself. The most difficult trick is when trading in your existing car. This is for them two negotiations, but it is one negotiation for you. If they are crazy low in their offer on your car, then you be crazy low on the new car price, which will force them to give you a realistic price for your used car. That used car value is often where new car buyers loose. I never trade a car, I sell it privately for this reason.
Forget the time, just keep repeating your goals. You do not have a good deal until they understand it really is your final offer. They tell you they cannot do it. You thank them, stand up and walk out the door. If they follow you out to your car, asking you to come back inside, you know you are close to the deal you want and they can give. You can then proceed with the real negotiation.
I would also reconsider the 20 inch rims. Just looking for trouble. Despite their wonderful curb appeal, they also get curb rash quite easily, too. Just stay with the 18 inch wheels, you will like yourself and your car better with them, especially with the air suspension and acoustic package. Why defeat the advantage of these options with noisy, stiff riding (and expensive) low profile tires?
Although the car will feel slightly less responsive in your hands than if equipped with 20 inch, very low profile tires, in reality the car will be just very nearly as quick in the corners and overall responsiveness does not suffer very much at all. The only reason I would consider 19 or 20 inch wheels would be driving 200+ kph everyday on the Autobahn where the difference would be real. At normal road speeds low profile is no advantage.
Prices are just numbers. Pick a number for starting, and then drop 10,000? Send both your cousins, don't worry, they will get the same treatment. Remember, the sales people are professionals. They have a lot of tricks to get you do what they expect you do to do: buy a car at their price and make you feel good while doing it.
As for negotiations, "WE" never made a good deal happen. Their job is to sell cars. They will have many opportunities to make a good deal for themselves with other customers, but you need to make a good deal for yourself. The most difficult trick is when trading in your existing car. This is for them two negotiations, but it is one negotiation for you. If they are crazy low in their offer on your car, then you be crazy low on the new car price, which will force them to give you a realistic price for your used car. That used car value is often where new car buyers loose. I never trade a car, I sell it privately for this reason.
Forget the time, just keep repeating your goals. You do not have a good deal until they understand it really is your final offer. They tell you they cannot do it. You thank them, stand up and walk out the door. If they follow you out to your car, asking you to come back inside, you know you are close to the deal you want and they can give. You can then proceed with the real negotiation.
Last edited by Mike__S; 10-14-2016 at 10:29 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mike__S:
M. Schneider (08-29-2023),
Snibbe (10-16-2016)
10-14-2016, 11:26 AM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
I always negotiate the all cash selling price for the new car. Once that is settled I negotiate the trade-in value of the old car. Indeed they are 2 separate negotiations.
10-16-2016, 10:22 AM
#4
If planning on keeping the car, I suggest non-metallic paint. Metallic paints, even with today's nano coatings, do not last forever unless garaged consistently both at home and at work. If garaged, properly waxed, cleaned every couple of weeks, then metallic paint is fine.
I would also reconsider the 20 inch rims. Just looking for trouble. Despite their wonderful curb appeal, they also get curb rash quite easily, too. Just stay with the 18 inch wheels, you will like yourself and your car better with them, especially with the air suspension and acoustic package. Why defeat the advantage of these options with noisy, stiff riding (and expensive) low profile tires?
Although the car will feel slightly less responsive in your hands than if equipped with 20 inch, very low profile tires, in reality the car will be just very nearly as quick in the corners and overall responsiveness does not suffer very much at all. The only reason I would consider 19 or 20 inch wheels would be driving 200+ kph everyday on the Autobahn where the difference would be real. At normal road speeds low profile is no advantage.
Although the car will feel slightly less responsive in your hands than if equipped with 20 inch, very low profile tires, in reality the car will be just very nearly as quick in the corners and overall responsiveness does not suffer very much at all. The only reason I would consider 19 or 20 inch wheels would be driving 200+ kph everyday on the Autobahn where the difference would be real. At normal road speeds low profile is no advantage.
Prices are just numbers. Pick a number for starting, and then drop 10,000? Send both your cousins, don't worry, they will get the same treatment. Remember, the sales people are professionals. They have a lot of tricks to get you do what they expect you do to do: buy a car at their price and make you feel good while doing it.
As for negotiations, "WE" never made a good deal happen. Their job is to sell cars. They will have many opportunities to make a good deal for themselves with other customers, but you need to make a good deal for yourself. The most difficult trick is when trading in your existing car. This is for them two negotiations, but it is one negotiation for you. If they are crazy low in their offer on your car, then you be crazy low on the new car price, which will force them to give you a realistic price for your used car. That used car value is often where new car buyers loose. I never trade a car, I sell it privately for this reason.
Forget the time, just keep repeating your goals. You do not have a good deal until they understand it really is your final offer. They tell you they cannot do it. You thank them, stand up and walk out the door. If they follow you out to your car, asking you to come back inside, you know you are close to the deal you want and they can give. You can then proceed with the real negotiation.
As for negotiations, "WE" never made a good deal happen. Their job is to sell cars. They will have many opportunities to make a good deal for themselves with other customers, but you need to make a good deal for yourself. The most difficult trick is when trading in your existing car. This is for them two negotiations, but it is one negotiation for you. If they are crazy low in their offer on your car, then you be crazy low on the new car price, which will force them to give you a realistic price for your used car. That used car value is often where new car buyers loose. I never trade a car, I sell it privately for this reason.
Forget the time, just keep repeating your goals. You do not have a good deal until they understand it really is your final offer. They tell you they cannot do it. You thank them, stand up and walk out the door. If they follow you out to your car, asking you to come back inside, you know you are close to the deal you want and they can give. You can then proceed with the real negotiation.
10-16-2016, 03:19 PM
#5
Member
Snibbe,
I was specifically referring to fade of color, not physical durability, The best thing to do for rocks is to apply a clear plastic film to the front of the car. Check around for this service. Also do a little research on the best materials to use. Also, apply it to the lower panels behind the wheel openings and/or use mud/stone flaps, as you probably well know.
The dealer is probably correct in their assertions. Metallics may indeed have a tougher finish, with a base color and a second coat of metal flakes, hence the name metallic. Then they have a protective nano coat (at least MB does this). Metallic finishes may also have UV coatings and other tricks applied that non-metallics do not get. I do not know for sure on this, but i recall reading it somewhere a while ago.
My point was they are often subject to fade. Blues are vulnerable, reds are notorious. As long as they are properly cared for and garaged, especially in your summer months, then metallics are great. Just do not crumple a corner - very hard to match metallics, I only know two painters I would trust with that job in Los Angeles. But you roll your dice and takes your chances in life, eh?
I went to Åmål from Germany for new year's 1971. Had met a couple in Amsterdam that summer and they insisted I visit. Hell of a three day party that was!
I was specifically referring to fade of color, not physical durability, The best thing to do for rocks is to apply a clear plastic film to the front of the car. Check around for this service. Also do a little research on the best materials to use. Also, apply it to the lower panels behind the wheel openings and/or use mud/stone flaps, as you probably well know.
The dealer is probably correct in their assertions. Metallics may indeed have a tougher finish, with a base color and a second coat of metal flakes, hence the name metallic. Then they have a protective nano coat (at least MB does this). Metallic finishes may also have UV coatings and other tricks applied that non-metallics do not get. I do not know for sure on this, but i recall reading it somewhere a while ago.
My point was they are often subject to fade. Blues are vulnerable, reds are notorious. As long as they are properly cared for and garaged, especially in your summer months, then metallics are great. Just do not crumple a corner - very hard to match metallics, I only know two painters I would trust with that job in Los Angeles. But you roll your dice and takes your chances in life, eh?
I went to Åmål from Germany for new year's 1971. Had met a couple in Amsterdam that summer and they insisted I visit. Hell of a three day party that was!
Last edited by Mike__S; 10-16-2016 at 03:24 PM.
The following users liked this post:
M. Schneider (08-29-2023)
