myexcursion

Would like to do front brakes, and possibly rears depending on how they look on my '17 e300 ( roughly 50k miles ). I still have my extended warranty and also have prepaid maintenance on it too. Suggestions on going with dealer or going indy... Typical cost in metro area ? any advice ...or recommend any where in particular / foru, vendor to pick up Mercedes brand pads/sensor ?

Thanks !

DFWdude

If you have an extended warranty or prepaid mtce that covers brakes, then why would you look elsewhere?

Mercedes Brakes are not rocket science... pretty much the same as any other car brand. I have changed brakes myself twice on my older C-Class. There are numerous YouTube videos on the procedure that apply to all MBs (and other brands with disc brakes for that matter).

Mercedes-Benz doesn't have its own brand of brakes, as they buy pads from the various auto suppliers, sometimes different suppliers during the same model run. You can't go wrong with a set of Akebono pads, as these have been MB OEM pads from time to time. You can order these (and plug-n-play sensors) from any local auto parts store. Just give the correct brand, make and model so they can match the parts.

With only 50,000 miles, I doubt you will need rotors at all, as it is intended that rotors last through to the second pad change.

Any local foreign-car Indy can do your brakes in their sleep if you want to go that route.

JTK44

Under both the PPM and the warranty, brakes being a "wear and tear" item are not covered.

chassis

It is my experience that standard PPM does not include brakes. Does your PPM contract specifically include brakes?

At 50k you will likely need rear rotors and pads. Front should last near 100k miles. Also depends on your driving style and use of assist systems (active lane keeping, Distronic and basic cruise control use the rear brakes).

JTK44

I agree: depending on how you drive will determine mileage replacement for both pads and rotors. If you get 50,000 miles on the pads, that at least to me indicates, a rather gentle brake foot. Someone who is gentle with brakes should be able to get 100K miles on both the front and rear rotors. Remember the rotors only have to be replaced if:

• they are scoured; visual inspection can determine this
• they are warped; highly unlikely and if they are warped you will feel it when you apply the brakes
• they are worn and below certain minimum width

Rotor replacement are neither age nor mileage dependent, but rather actual wear dependent.

see: https://www.hawkperformance.com/blog...rs-in-your-car

hyperion667

Dang new stuff at only 50K miles?? IS the light on? Get a measurement? And, WELCOME TO THE FORUMS

velryba

I bought the car with just over 40k miles on and changed pads and rotors with just over 90k miles on.
I have a mechanic who does everything on the car for me. His suggestion was to take the rotors from MB,
as they were build differently than the standard one piece rotor. And they were only a bit more expensive.

I have asked him through out the time so many times to check brakes, but they were always fine, until the light came on.
So, just wait for the warning message to come on and don't waste you energy and money on it.

myexcursion

Thanks everyone ! Yeah light went on yesterday. Wife’s car and she is pretty soft on brakes. Have done my own brakes in past on my other cars ... just didn’t want to chance anything on this one. Looked at pads through the wheels ( didn’t remove them ) and rear seem to be thinner than front. Going to have to swing by local indie and see what he charges.

lkfoster

Old school rule of thumb is to replace the pads when the friction material is as thin as the metal backing plate. I'm doing the wife's front pads for that reason at 65k miles. The rears still have a bit left.

hyperion667

You still do rotors or just pads at that thickness?

lkfoster

No rotors, just the pads, I don't have a micrometer to measure for minimum allowable thickness (it's usually cast into the rotor hub) but eye-balling the wear they look OK. No grooves or whatnot. Over the years I've rarely had to replace rotors.

ygmn

If no indicator for when to change pads, either the old school SCREECHER metal tab or MB little sensor to rub on rotor and make light come on...

I always go by the groove in the pad normally the middle that helps wipe the rotor - when it is only about 1/16" groove depth left or worse case pads so thin the groove is gone I replace.

I tend to replace rotor with pads these days as they really do not give much extra material to machine off and local autu parts stores do not have the little lathe in back to freshen up rotors.

Plus rotors can be cheaply found these days online due to ROTOR city in China.

Example last week did wife's Volvo SUV front axle pads and rotors all for $130 tax and shipping included Gotta love Rock Auto and the 5% discount Code easily found on internet.
Rotors were $30 each - that is CHEAP for 40 pounds of machined cast iron.

Bfgslkman

Do it yourself! Video available on my YouTube channel.

JTK44

FWIW:

Today had my car in for an oil change at 30,000 miles. It was done at an indy shop (big savings) and while on the lift we checked the car out - my warranty expires in December, 2022.

Everything was fine except for the rear rotors: The front and rear pads were fine, have plenty of "meat" left and the front rotors were smooth. The rear rotors along the outside had groves more pronounced on the inside than the outside. We pulled a rear wheel for a better inspection. The mechanic pointed out that the rear are "electrical" - when you put the car in park, the rear brakes are activated. He thinks that this may have caused the scoring of the rear rotors because there is still plenty of meat on the pads.

Car brakes fine, no pulling or pulsating: He said do nothing until the sensor indicates that the pads need to be replaced, then he will replace the rear rotors as well.

Hope this helps.

myexcursion

I've done them on a couple of my other cars... might give it a go too. I was looking for front / rear pads , but some say SPORTS AMG Packages. I don't believe I have the sports package - just a regular e300 4matic. Any tips are greatly welcomed

Thx !

lkfoster

When retracting the caliper pistons what the brake fluid reservoir to make sure that you don't overflow it. Brake fluid loves to dissolve paint.

To retract fixed caliper pistions use large channel lock pliers going from side to side against the metal backing plates and the caliper body. As you retract one side the other side will move back a bit. You're "not supposed to do it" but I've used a large screwdriver against the rotors without any issues.

myexcursion

Anyone know if the stock pads are semi metallic or ceramic ?

BoMB

Unless it was a part of some special promotion, package, etc. -- brakes have always been a wear and tear item, and not covered by warranty of PPM. If at one time MB, or even a dealer, said hey, we'll include brake pads (and rotors), once every X months or Y miles, or when needed, whatever, that's great. I am sure it was reflected in the price of the package/promotion.

myexcursion

ended up picking up genuine Mercedes pads... do the w213 calipers spread using regular spreader, or do you need a rewind spreader ?