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If I buy a 2002 car, I would need an another daily driver, the cost would be prohibitive. On a side note, I would never own a German car out of warranty, nevermine one as old as a 2002.
Well if you are buying an m274 I could certainly understand why you would never own a German car out of warranty.
But if you actually did research and understood that some engines/models have a solid track record, are easy to work on, and have parts widely available through sites like FCP Euro with lifetime warranty, you’d realize the cost to own many of these German cars outside of warranty is nowhere near what you may think.
Many Mercedes and BMWs are quite easy to repair, especially the inline 6 engines with only one valve cover, plenty of space to reach things, and well thought out layout. Audi on the other hand is a complete nightmare to work on due to packaging. Toyota, a brand typically considered reliable, is very hard to work on their V6 engines due to the transverse layout and a few other issues. Yeah, Toyota breaks less there’s no question, try changing spark plugs in their v6 then do the same in a Mercedes m276 or m113 or pretty much any BMW engine.
The biggest problem with buying an older car now regardless German, Japanese etc is that parts age over time. If you change out all those parts when you buy the car and you get something with a solid engine, you’ll have a glitch here and there but it’ll be mostly smooth sailing. When I got my 2002 M5 with 120k miles 4 years ago, I had the entire suspension replaced including all shocks, bushings, control arms. Also replaced motor mounts, central support bushing, transmission mounts, rear diff mounts. Changed all fluids. Replaced fuel pump and water pump and bunch of hoses. Replaced spark plugs, camshaft position sensors, 02 sensor. Bunch of other stuff. It cost me $12k to refresh all the wear items. I’ve driven it problem free for 4 years and 45k miles since then. The only issue that came up between then and now was my radio module died so I bought a used one on eBay for $50.
I realize The average person doesn’t want to go through this effort because they don’t know enough about which areas of the car to focus on and don’t want to put the effort into fixing something old. But the whole “German car out of warranty” thing is ridiculous, you just need to have an understanding of which models/engines are good and which to avoid.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by The G Man
The OP’s budget is a 2017 E300, which is below $30k, please let me know if you know of a well equipped 2017 E400 for under $30k, please share it with us.
You asked and here is the answer: remember these are asking prices, so selling price will be less.
Update: If the link below does not work:
Go to:
Cars.com
Used
Mercedes
Model E400
Distance: all miles
Year: 2017 or newer
There are well over 20 cars listed at $30K or less. (presently 23 cars are listed under $30K and 31 for under $31K)
Well if you are buying an m274 I could certainly understand why you would never own a German car out of warranty.
But if you actually did research and understood that some engines/models have a solid track record, are easy to work on, and have parts widely available through sites like FCP Euro with lifetime warranty, you’d realize the cost to own many of these German cars outside of warranty is nowhere near what you may think.
Many Mercedes and BMWs are quite easy to repair, especially the inline 6 engines with only one valve cover, plenty of space to reach things, and well thought out layout. Audi on the other hand is a complete nightmare to work on due to packaging. Toyota, a brand typically considered reliable, is very hard to work on their V6 engines due to the transverse layout and a few other issues. Yeah, Toyota breaks less there’s no question, try changing spark plugs in their v6 then do the same in a Mercedes m276 or m113 or pretty much any BMW engine.
The biggest problem with buying an older car now regardless German, Japanese etc is that parts age over time. If you change out all those parts when you buy the car and you get something with a solid engine, you’ll have a glitch here and there but it’ll be mostly smooth sailing. When I got my 2002 M5 with 120k miles 4 years ago, I had the entire suspension replaced including all shocks, bushings, control arms. Also replaced motor mounts, central support bushing, transmission mounts, rear diff mounts. Changed all fluids. Replaced fuel pump and water pump and bunch of hoses. Replaced spark plugs, camshaft position sensors, 02 sensor. Bunch of other stuff. It cost me $12k to refresh all the wear items. I’ve driven it problem free for 4 years and 45k miles since then. The only issue that came up between then and now was my radio module died so I bought a used one on eBay for $50.
I realize The average person doesn’t want to go through this effort because they don’t know enough about which areas of the car to focus on and don’t want to put the effort into fixing something old. But the whole “German car out of warranty” thing is ridiculous, you just need to have an understanding of which models/engines are good and which to avoid.
I use to work on my cars when I was younger but now, To be honest, I have better ways to spends my time than under the hood. My other issue is I like having the latest technologies in my cars, so I usually trade in my car every few years for those two reasons.
Thanks for looking that up, but if the OP was looking at a 2017 E300, his budget might be around low $20k. Looks like the E400 will cost about $5000 more. The OP could also get a 2016 NA V6 for around $20K.
I use to work on my cars when I was younger but now, To be honest, I have better ways to spends my time than under the hood. My other issue is I like having the latest technologies in my cars, so I usually trade in my car every few years for those two reasons.
Same here. Used to be the same way fixing my own cars etc, but the m5 is probably the last car I’ll take on as a project.
That’s why I got the 2022 e class. Wanted to push the easy button and not have to think about it mechanically. I’m just not all that interested in spending my time doing that stuff anymore, especially when I consider the opportunity cost.
Also like the newer features like massage seats and ambient lighting and level 2 autonomous features. the e450 will remain my daily and im strongly considering selling a few older cars to make space for a Lotus Emira or Cayman for my weekend car.
Same here. Used to be the same way fixing my own cars etc, but the m5 is probably the last car I’ll take on as a project.
That’s why I got the 2022 e class. Wanted to push the easy button and not have to think about it mechanically. I’m just not all that interested in spending my time doing that stuff anymore, especially when I consider the opportunity cost.
Also like the newer features like massage seats and ambient lighting and level 2 autonomous features. the e450 will remain my daily and im strongly considering selling a few older cars to make space for a Lotus Emira or Cayman for my weekend car.
I am jealous of your options, the older M5 were a beast, some of BMW’s best cars were build in that era and one cannot go wrong with either a Porsche or a Lotus. I am hoping to someday purchase a second car, probably a Corvette or a 911, two very different cars, I know.
Much like you, I enjoy talking about cars more than fixing it and bruising up my knuckles. Let us know what you decided on for your next car, the Lotus or Porsche. 👍
I bought a fully loaded 2019 E300 a few months ago. I hadn’t heard about the piston cracking issue so after I found out I talked to the service manager at the dealership that I use and he said that
The piston problem was primarily a C class issue but that they had some early to 2017 E300’s with the M274 engines that had the issue. He said he couldn’t swear that it would never happen to my car but he said that the odds were very low.
In order to be safe I should ALWAYS use Shell gas of at least 93 octane. I asked what to do if the station only had 91 octane and he said to go find a different station. He also said to change the oil every 5000 miles and that the 1 year 10,000 mile interval was far too long and also to have the spark plugs changed every 35,000 miles. He
then told me that putting the car in Sport or Sport plus modes creates too much stress in the engine and to leave it in comfort or eco modes. And lastly he said that if there is anything unusual about drivability or engine temp or oil level to pull over to the side and turn the car off and have it towed to the dealer. According to him replacing the #1 piston (the one that if it’s going to happen goes first) is about $6500 but a new engine is around $28,000.
I decided after I talked to him I would just drive the thing and be careful. (I bought an extended warranty that covers 6 years or 100,000 miles. I’m not a complete idiot!).
I also get about 28-30 mpg in the city and 38-40 mpg on the highway which at 65 years old is more important to me than being able to launch into hyperspace.
Last edited by DeutscheBenz726; 10-02-2023 at 09:21 PM.
The gasoline brand doesn't matter as much as that the fuel meets or exceeds the Top Tier Gasoline specifications. Look for the Top Tier Logo on the pump. There are currently 52 brands selling Top Tier gasoline in the USA, Shell retailers can be very sparsely located and hard to find. There are only 16 in Shell retailers Wyoming and 18 in West Virginia. 93 pump octane can be equally difficult to find. The best one can do is buy fuel that is Top Tier and also 93 octane. That being said, Top Tier 91 octane is perfectly acceptable for use in North America.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by DeutscheBenz726
I bought a fully loaded 2019 E300 a few months ago. I hadn’t heard about the piston cracking issue so after I found out I talked to the service manager at the dealership that I use and he said that
The piston problem was primarily a C class issue but that they had some early to 2017 E300’s with the M274 engines that had the issue. He said he couldn’t swear that it would never happen to my car but he said that the odds were much lower than the early ones.
In order to be safe I should ALWAYS use Shell gas of at least 93 octane. I asked what to do if the station only had 91 octane and he said to go find a different station. He also said to change the oil every 5000 miles and that the 1 year 10,000 mile interval was far too long and also to have the spark plugs changed every 35,000 miles. He
then told me that putting the car in Sport or Sport plus modes creates too much stress in the engine and to leave it in comfort or eco modes. And lastly he said that if there is anything unusual about drivability or engine temp or oil level to pull over to the side and turn the car off and have it towed to the dealer. According to him replacing the #1 piston (the one that if it’s going to happen goes first) is about $6500 but a new engine is around $28,000.
I decided after I talked to him I would just drive the thing and be careful. (I bought an extended warranty that covers 6 years or 100,000 miles. I’m not a complete idiot!).
I also get about 28-30 mpg in the city and 38-40 mpg on the highway which at 65 years old is more important to me than being able to launch into hyperspace.
Doing what the service manager recommends certainly won't hut - except in your pocket book!
Do not forget that asking a service manager when you should service your car is like asking a barber whether you need a haircut or not.
As everyone knows, all modern cars come with electronic ignition that detects what is commonly called "pre-ignition" aka "knock".
Mercedes and other high end manufacturers recommend 93/91 octane because that will give the most horsepower and fastest acceleration. There is nothing inherently superior in 93 octane vs. 89. Octane rating is a measure of the fuels ability to avoid pre-ignition.
Of course the way you drive, and 99.9% of us as well, unless we are drag racing or pulling a trailer in high altitude mountains, you will never use but a fraction of the available horsepower. At constant 65 mph you are using less than 40 hp!
So by using 93 octane gas, you paying for horsepower that you will never use.
All gasolines use similar detergents. The only difference between 89/91/93 octane is the ability to prevent "pre-detonation" which is no longer an issue in modern cars, including your Mercedes, because of electronic ignition.
Because I do not drag race, never pull a trailer, drive like you, conservatively, and consequently never need or us the full potential of my E450, I use regular gas in my car without any ill effects. I have similarly used regular in my three Boxsters, two BMW 740, Audi A8, two BMW 540 and my previous Mercedes E350 (6 cylinder), again with no ill effects.
Anyone who thinks that using regular instead of premium is ill informed.
For those who will say, if you can afford a Mercedes, you can afford the price of premium, I will respond: I did not get to where I am to be able to afford a Mercedes by frivolously throwing away money!
Just my $.02 and how you choose to spend your money is a personal decision.
In some US market, the Shell 93 octane V Power contain more detergent than the Shell 87 octane. Not all top tier gas are the same, top teir is just a minium standard. In my Mercedes owner,s manual, it states to use a min. Of 91octane. It is okay to use 87 octane in an emergency but using it every day is not recommended and it could cause damage in the long term. I remembered when my Audi A6 had carbon build up issues, the mechanic told me to use Shell 93, the lower octane will cause carbon build up. There are a couple things I do not compromise on when it comes to an engine, that is gas and oil. In my opinion, an engine should be ready to perform at peak output at all times.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by The G Man
In some US market, the Shell 93 octane V Power contain more detergent than the Shell 87 octane. Not all top tier gas are the same, top teir is just a minium standard. In my Mercedes owner,s manual, it states to use a min. Of 91octane. It is okay to use 87 octane in an emergency but using it every day is not recommended and it could cause damage in the long term. I remembered when my Audi A6 had carbon build up issues, the mechanic told me to use Shell 93, the lower octane will cause carbon build up. There are a couple things I do not compromise on when it comes to an engine, that is gas and oil. In my opinion, an engine should be ready to perform at peak output at all times.
Everyone can do and spend their money any way they want. But knowing facts is important:
"Raising the octane rating (also known as the anti-knock index) doesn't change the energy content of a gallon of gasoline. A higher octane rating indicates greater resistance to knock, the early combustion of the fuel-air mixture that causes cylinder pressure to spike. When higher-octane fuel is flowing through its injectors, the engine controller can take advantage of the elevated knock threshold and dial in more aggressive timing and higher boost pressures to improve performance."
and
"Higher compression in an engine produces higher horsepower, but it may require premium gas to do it. That’s because newer engines have electronic knock sensors that can detect the onset of knock and pinging and tell the computer to back off on engine ignition timing to compensate for lower-octane fuels, though power may be reduced a bit as a result. On turbocharged or supercharged engines, the boost (which makes more horsepower, but may require premium fuel to do so) can also be backed off to do the same."
and
"Not using premium won’t necessarily hurt your engine, but you could lose some of the performance of that premium engine you paid for if you use regular or midgrade gas."
and
"While there are different grades for premium gas, the difference lies in the formula. For instance, Shell’s V-Power NiTRO+ has four levels of protection against gunk, corrosion, wear, and friction. ExxonMobil’s Synergy Supreme+, on the other hand, contains high levels of detergents for cleaner fuel injection and more efficient fuel economy."
If you car has an electronic ignition with anti-knock built in, as all late model Mercedes do, then no harm will be done to the engine by using regular vs. premium.
The only question(s) that remains are whether mileage and/or performance suffer:
As to mileage, as each gallon of gas contains the same energy, the answer is no or the difference will be so slight, but never enough to recover the extra cost of premium
As to performance: yes but it is negligible as the loss of horsepower is between 3% and 5%
Test have consistently shown that 0-60 times are effected by less than .2 seconds and mileage is the same.
As I originally posted, using premium will not hurt - except in your wallet!
Everyone can do and spend their money any way they want. But knowing facts is important: "Raising the octane rating (also known as the anti-knock index) doesn't change the energy content of a gallon of gasoline. A higher octane rating indicates greater resistance to knock, the early combustion of the fuel-air mixture that causes cylinder pressure to spike. When higher-octane fuel is flowing through its injectors, the engine controller can take advantage of the elevated knock threshold and dial in more aggressive timing and higher boost pressures to improve performance."
and
"Higher compression in an engine produces higher horsepower, but it may require premium gas to do it. That’s because newer engines have electronic knock sensors that can detect the onset of knock and pinging and tell the computer to back off on engine ignition timing to compensate for lower-octane fuels, though power may be reduced a bit as a result. On turbocharged or supercharged engines, the boost (which makes more horsepower, but may require premium fuel to do so) can also be backed off to do the same."
and
"Not using premium won’t necessarily hurt your engine, but you could lose some of the performance of that premium engine you paid for if you use regular or midgrade gas.
and
"While there are different grades for premium gas, the difference lies in the formula. For instance, Shell’s V-Power NiTRO+ has four levels of protection against gunk, corrosion, wear, and friction. ExxonMobil’s Synergy Supreme+, on the other hand, contains high levels of detergents for cleaner fuel injection and more efficient fuel economy."
If you car has an electronic ignition with anti-knock built in, as all late model Mercedes do, then no harm will be done to the engine by using regular vs. premium.
The only question(s) that remains are whether mileage and/or performance suffer:
As to mileage, as each gallon of gas contains the same energy, the answer is no or the difference will be so slight, but never enough to recover the extra cost of premium
As to performance: yes but it is negligible as the loss of horsepower is between 3% and 5%
For me, its risk and reward, I drive about 3000 miles a year and going to cheap gas save me about $100 a year, hardly worth going against Mercedes’s required octane set forth by their engineers, especially when my car is still under warranty. I also like my car to have all available power available at all time and running clean and at max fuel efficiency.
Nice, it's turning into very fun discussion :-D
I'm sorry JTK44, but did you read the articles you mentioned here? Which part of "But if it says “Required” or “Only,” you should use premium." (or in case of Mercedes - "minimum octane rating 91") isn't clear ? Or from manual: "Premature engine wear through unleaded regular gasoline"... More interesting: if unleaded premium fuel is unavailable and you have to use unleaded regular gasoline:
1. ..... (something about filling only have of tank)
2. .... (something about not driving at max speed, probably only for Germans :-D )
3. Avoid sudden accelerations and engine speeds over 3000 rpm
You are right about ability an ECU to reduce detonation (although I don't believe It can fully eliminate or stop it quickly), but ECU unable to control pre-ignition and chances of pre-ignition on DI engines are high enough on its own (on of many reasons of pre-ignition is carbon build-up getting into combustion changer) no need to "help" it with lower octane fuel
BTW I generally like suggestions from that manager (more often oil change on DI engines, especially with many short trips is a good idea), and I've been following similar intervals on all my cars, although I do maintenance myself.
Nice, it's turning into very fun discussion :-D
I'm sorry JTK44, but did you read the articles you mentioned here? Which part of "But if it says “Required” or “Only,” you should use premium." (or in case of Mercedes - "minimum octane rating 91") isn't clear ? Or from manual: "Premature engine wear through unleaded regular gasoline"... More interesting: if unleaded premium fuel is unavailable and you have to use unleaded regular gasoline:
1. ..... (something about filling only have of tank)
2. .... (something about not driving at max speed, probably only for Germans :-D )
3. Avoid sudden accelerations and engine speeds over 3000 rpm
You are right about ability an ECU to reduce detonation (although I don't believe It can fully eliminate or stop it quickly), but ECU unable to control pre-ignition and chances of pre-ignition on DI engines are high enough on its own (on of many reasons of pre-ignition is carbon build-up getting into combustion changer) no need to "help" it with lower octane fuel
BTW I generally like suggestions from that manager (more often oil change on DI engines, especially with many short trips is a good idea), and I've been following similar intervals on all my cars, although I do maintenance myself.
I agree, a direct injection engine is inherently dirty in itself, there is no way for the gas to clean the valves. Using a cheap gas will compound the problem with premature ignition which will carbon up the valves quicker.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by dzmitry
Nice, it's turning into very fun discussion :-D
I'm sorry JTK44, but did you read the articles you mentioned here? Which part of "But if it says “Required” or “Only,” you should use premium." (or in case of Mercedes - "minimum octane rating 91") isn't clear ? Or from manual: "Premature engine wear through unleaded regular gasoline"... More interesting: if unleaded premium fuel is unavailable and you have to use unleaded regular gasoline:
1. ..... (something about filling only have of tank)
2. .... (something about not driving at max speed, probably only for Germans :-D )
3. Avoid sudden accelerations and engine speeds over 3000 rpm
You are right about ability an ECU to reduce detonation (although I don't believe It can fully eliminate or stop it quickly), but ECU unable to control pre-ignition and chances of pre-ignition on DI engines are high enough on its own (on of many reasons of pre-ignition is carbon build-up getting into combustion changer) no need to "help" it with lower octane fuel
BTW I generally like suggestions from that manager (more often oil change on DI engines, especially with many short trips is a good idea), and I've been following similar intervals on all my cars, although I do maintenance myself.
Of course I read the entire article and my owner's manual.
Did you also read that luxury cars are in both a hp and acceleration times race? As luxury cars have gone from 8 cylinders, to 6 and now 4, all to meet government CAFE standards, in order to maintain hp ratings and 0-60 times, the maximum performance is needed and that is obtained with premium fuel.
At some point people will balk at driving a 4 cylinder Mercedes that cost $70,000 that only has 225 hp and 0-60 times of 7 seconds. To avoid that, Mercedes designs its engines for maximum performance and that requires premium.
I also wrote in my posts that I do not do any sudden acceleration, drive very modestly (in eco mode), never drag race and for those that drive this way, there is no problem using regular gas. I have never had pre-detonation aka "knocking". (I have the E450 instead of the E300 because of the quiet and smoothness of the 6 vs. 4 cylinder. In my mind a $70,000 Mercedes is a luxury car and the 6 cylinder gives you the smoothness and quiet operation that the 4 does not)
I also see no reason to assume, as you do, that the ECU "I don't believe It can fully eliminate or stop it quickly". The ECU is there to do a job, and I assume it does. In many countries, third world, where Mercedes are sold, premium fuel is not available. The ECU is there to permit Mercedes to be driven there.
As to carbon build up: Wives tale: no longer happens with modern fuels with detergent, both regular and premium and fuel injection engines.
As to carbon build up: Wives tale: no longer happens with modern fuels with detergent, both regular and premium and fuel injection engines.
I wish carbon build up is a old wives’ tale but it is not. If you understand how a direct engine works, you would know that the detergent in the gasoline will never come in contact with the intake valves, therefore rendering the detergent useless for cleaning the intake valve. Some engines have both direct and port injections to remedy this problem, our engines do not have this. All DI engine will have carbon build up over time, some more than others. Even if you do not get misfires or CEL, that just mean your carbon problem is not that bad. Even then, carbon will decrease performance and efficiency.
2004 CLK 320/500 fuel door says "Premium fuel only"
Chunks of carbon build-up getting into combustion chamber could become a "hot-stop"s causing pre-ignition.
PS just to be clear I'm not trying to convince anyone (in general it's almost impossible in such circumstances) and I'm not saying that I'm 100% right, I'm just sharing my thoughts and ideas, so I hope we could keep this thread friendly
Doing what the service manager recommends certainly won't hut - except in your pocket book!
Do not forget that asking a service manager when you should service your car is like asking a barber whether you need a haircut or not.
As everyone knows, all modern cars come with electronic ignition that detects what is commonly called "pre-ignition" aka "knock".
Mercedes and other high end manufacturers recommend 93/91 octane because that will give the most horsepower and fastest acceleration. There is nothing inherently superior in 93 octane vs. 89. Octane rating is a measure of the fuels ability to avoid pre-ignition.
Of course the way you drive, and 99.9% of us as well, unless we are drag racing or pulling a trailer in high altitude mountains, you will never use but a fraction of the available horsepower. At constant 65 mph you are using less than 40 hp!
So by using 93 octane gas, you paying for horsepower that you will never use.
All gasolines use similar detergents. The only difference between 89/91/93 octane is the ability to prevent "pre-detonation" which is no longer an issue in modern cars, including your Mercedes, because of electronic ignition.
Because I do not drag race, never pull a trailer, drive like you, conservatively, and consequently never need or us the full potential of my E450, I use regular gas in my car without any ill effects. I have similarly used regular in my three Boxsters, two BMW 740, Audi A8, two BMW 540 and my previous Mercedes E350 (6 cylinder), again with no ill effects.
Anyone who thinks that using regular instead of premium is ill informed.
For those who will say, if you can afford a Mercedes, you can afford the price of premium, I will respond: I did not get to where I am to be able to afford a Mercedes by frivolously throwing away money!
Just my $.02 and how you choose to spend your money is a personal decision.
I think that in a car that has the M274 engine in it, the piston cracking issue alone would be enough to warrant top tier premium gas. Then there is the sticker in the fuel filler door of my car that reads Premium gasoline of AT LEAST 93 octane REQUIRED! Use of lower octane may cause severe engine damage which is not covered under your new car warranty!
[QUOTE=dzmitry;8855161]Nice, it's turning into very fun discussion :-D
I'm sorry JTK44, but did you read the articles you mentioned here? Which part of "But if it says “Required” or “Only,” you should use premium." (or in case of Mercedes - "minimum octane rating 91") isn't clear ? Or from manual: "Premature engine wear through unleaded regular gasoline"... More interesting: if unleaded premium fuel is unavailable and you have to use unleaded regular gasoline:
1. ..... (something about filling only have of tank)
2. .... (something about not driving at max speed, probably only for Germans :-D )
3. Avoid sudden accelerations and engine speeds over 3000 rpm
You are right about ability an ECU to reduce detonation (although I don't believe It can fully eliminate or stop it quickly), but ECU unable to control pre-ignition and chances of pre-ignition on DI engines are high enough on its own (on of many reasons of pre-ignition is carbon build-up getting into combustion changer) no need to "help" it with lower octane fuel
BTW I generally like suggestions from that manager (more often oil change on DI engines, especially with many short trips is a good idea), and I've been following similar intervals on all my cars, although I do maintenance myself.[/QUOTE
In the owners manual for my car it states that you can use regular (mid grade preferred) in an emergency but to not fill the tank more than 1/4 and to not exceed three quarters of throttle position and to not use the “kick down” pedal position until the car is refueled with 93 octane.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by DeutscheBenz726
I think that in a car that has the M274 engine in it, the piston cracking issue alone would be enough to warrant top tier premium gas. Then there is the sticker in the fuel filler door of my car that reads Premium gasoline of AT LEAST 93 octane REQUIRED! Use of lower octane may cause severe engine damage which is not covered under your new car warranty!
You have a point: with the 4 cylinder engine, the engine has to work much harder from acceleration from a stop light, passing and even maintaining 75 mph vs.the 6 cylinder on my E450. So in fact, just to keep up with everyone else, you just might need a higher octane gas than regular.
The sticker on my fuel tank is 91 not 93.
I have already written about how using regular vs. premium will not cause any damage, so no reason to go there again.
Of course everyone spends their money how they see fit.
You have a point: with the 4 cylinder engine, the engine has to work much harder from acceleration from a stop light, passing and even maintaining 75 mph vs.the 6 cylinder on my E450. So in fact, just to keep up with everyone else, you just might need a higher octane gas than regular.
The sticker on my fuel tank is 91 not 93.
I have already written about how using regular vs. premium will not cause any damage, so no reason to go there again.
Of course everyone spends their money how they see fit.
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion I suppose
09-30-2023, 10:03 AM
? Or from manual: "Premature engine wear through unleaded regular gasoline"... More interesting: if unleaded premium fuel is unavailable and you have to use unleaded regular gasoline: 
