2017 E400 Wagon Airmatic Problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
e250 e550 450sel 280e e400
2017 E400 Wagon Airmatic Problem
The dreaded yellow malfunction arrow appear in my display recently. Pulled the fuse to find it was blown, so I replaced it, reset the error message and all was fine for about a week. Message appears again, the fuse was blown. Fault code “the correction fill time taking too long.” Reset the code, get a new fuse and relay all is good for a couple of days. Message pops up yet again. I look at the fuse and it’s not blown. Fault code “ the correction time when emptying is too long.” There are no other codes in the system, vehicle is not sitting low in the back end. Checked all the sensors with the reader and everything checked out. I measured the distance from the lip of the rear wheel wells to the ground on both sides and they were a match at 28.75 inches. Pump is original to the car with 57K on the clock.
I did notice on the level sensor readings the following:
Left rear vehicle level 24mm
Signal of component 10.65
Right rear vehicle level 25mm
Signal of component -7.97
I just thought I would add that information.
Any help would be appreciated.
I did notice on the level sensor readings the following:
Left rear vehicle level 24mm
Signal of component 10.65
Right rear vehicle level 25mm
Signal of component -7.97
I just thought I would add that information.
Any help would be appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 445
Likes: 11
From: Washington, DC Metro Area
Currently: 2019 E450 AWD, Previous: 2002 CLK55 Cab
The dreaded yellow malfunction arrow appear in my display recently. Pulled the fuse to find it was blown, so I replaced it, reset the error message and all was fine for about a week. Message appears again, the fuse was blown. Fault code “the correction fill time taking too long.” Reset the code, get a new fuse and relay all is good for a couple of days. Message pops up yet again. I look at the fuse and it’s not blown. Fault code “ the correction time when emptying is too long.” There are no other codes in the system, vehicle is not sitting low in the back end. Checked all the sensors with the reader and everything checked out. I measured the distance from the lip of the rear wheel wells to the ground on both sides and they were a match at 28.75 inches. Pump is original to the car with 57K on the clock.
I did notice on the level sensor readings the following:
Left rear vehicle level 24mm
Signal of component 10.65
Right rear vehicle level 25mm
Signal of component -7.97
I just thought I would add that information.
Any help would be appreciated.
I did notice on the level sensor readings the following:
Left rear vehicle level 24mm
Signal of component 10.65
Right rear vehicle level 25mm
Signal of component -7.97
I just thought I would add that information.
Any help would be appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
From: Sarasota FL
2020 E450 Wagon
Here is what comes to mind not knowing much of anything about 213's, but having dealt with lots of 220's and 211's.
If the right sensor is in the negative and the vehicle is fairly level, I would be looking at that sensor first. The pump could have incurred damaged as well, possibly trying to correct a erroneous reading. Assuming we're talking about a 30-40 amp fuse, the pump was likely working overtime trying to make that sensor read correctly and overheated. So you may be looking at a sensor and a pump.
Just be aware that live data on aftermarket scan tools (at least in the old days) are notoriously suspect. they can really lead you down a rabbit hole. Recommend that you test sensor values at the controller to confirm the data. If the sensors can swapped, that would be a great way confirm the data.
If the right sensor is in the negative and the vehicle is fairly level, I would be looking at that sensor first. The pump could have incurred damaged as well, possibly trying to correct a erroneous reading. Assuming we're talking about a 30-40 amp fuse, the pump was likely working overtime trying to make that sensor read correctly and overheated. So you may be looking at a sensor and a pump.
Just be aware that live data on aftermarket scan tools (at least in the old days) are notoriously suspect. they can really lead you down a rabbit hole. Recommend that you test sensor values at the controller to confirm the data. If the sensors can swapped, that would be a great way confirm the data.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
e250 e550 450sel 280e e400
Here is what comes to mind not knowing much of anything about 213's, but having dealt with lots of 220's and 211's.
If the right sensor is in the negative and the vehicle is fairly level, I would be looking at that sensor first. The pump could have incurred damaged as well, possibly trying to correct a erroneous reading. Assuming we're talking about a 30-40 amp fuse, the pump was likely working overtime trying to make that sensor read correctly and overheated. So you may be looking at a sensor and a pump.
Just be aware that live data on aftermarket scan tools (at least in the old days) are notoriously suspect. they can really lead you down a rabbit hole. Recommend that you test sensor values at the controller to confirm the data. If the sensors can swapped, that would be a great way confirm the data.
If the right sensor is in the negative and the vehicle is fairly level, I would be looking at that sensor first. The pump could have incurred damaged as well, possibly trying to correct a erroneous reading. Assuming we're talking about a 30-40 amp fuse, the pump was likely working overtime trying to make that sensor read correctly and overheated. So you may be looking at a sensor and a pump.
Just be aware that live data on aftermarket scan tools (at least in the old days) are notoriously suspect. they can really lead you down a rabbit hole. Recommend that you test sensor values at the controller to confirm the data. If the sensors can swapped, that would be a great way confirm the data.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
From: Sarasota FL
2020 E450 Wagon
Check the air valves
"read the stored code and it was correction time emptying taking too long. The rear of the car still sitting normal on both sides, so no air loss. No blown fuse."
OK, swapping sensors changed nothing. Having that code points in another direction. To me the code suggests looking at the valves as the next step. In the steam bath we call Florida, we've seen humidity build up in the air lines & valves. Compressing air causes any moisture to condense out, and it has no place to go. For whatever reason, neither Mercedes or BMW includes anything in the system to combat moisture (other than material makeup) in their air ride systems. This moisture can cause corrosion in the valves that eventually may cause them to stick in one position. My guess is that one of the valves in your system isn't operating, and causing the code. The valves will have an electrical/magnet component, and an actual air metering valve component, possibly with a spring holding the valve in the closed position. The valve portion is where I would look, likely stuck in the closed position. Some of the valves are made in a manner that they can be disassembled, and even cleaned. Others not so much. I was able to restore operation on the rear self-leveling system of a BMW 5 series wagon in this manner years ago.
If that is possible in this case, and you have made it functional again, I would still replace the valve. Once corrosion has worked it's way into the surface of the valve components, any surface treatment made during the manufacturing process will have been compromised. The corrosion will return much quicker than before.
OK, swapping sensors changed nothing. Having that code points in another direction. To me the code suggests looking at the valves as the next step. In the steam bath we call Florida, we've seen humidity build up in the air lines & valves. Compressing air causes any moisture to condense out, and it has no place to go. For whatever reason, neither Mercedes or BMW includes anything in the system to combat moisture (other than material makeup) in their air ride systems. This moisture can cause corrosion in the valves that eventually may cause them to stick in one position. My guess is that one of the valves in your system isn't operating, and causing the code. The valves will have an electrical/magnet component, and an actual air metering valve component, possibly with a spring holding the valve in the closed position. The valve portion is where I would look, likely stuck in the closed position. Some of the valves are made in a manner that they can be disassembled, and even cleaned. Others not so much. I was able to restore operation on the rear self-leveling system of a BMW 5 series wagon in this manner years ago.
If that is possible in this case, and you have made it functional again, I would still replace the valve. Once corrosion has worked it's way into the surface of the valve components, any surface treatment made during the manufacturing process will have been compromised. The corrosion will return much quicker than before.
Last edited by GermanCars; Oct 9, 2023 at 10:17 AM.
