Amen! Debating oil change intervals in like debating sheets of toilet paper -- do what makes you comfy and can afford.

 

I hear "bidet is the way".

 

Hey man, do what ever you please. Change it at 20,000 miles if it makes you happy. I just know that it all depends on where you live and how you drive. Winters are insanely harsh here and the terrain is mountainous, and I drive faster on highways than most people. That being said, an oil analysis on my old E400 said that the oil was more contaminated @ 10,000 miles vs 8,000 miles when I tried both. Oil filters don't pick everything up, and the color does tell you a lot. Like drinking colored water from a stream vs drinking clear water from a natural water source. But to each their own. I'm happy with the internals of my engine (borescoped it a while back) changing it every 5,000 miles with the way I drive and the climate i live in.

Also... Thank you for your service. I just re-read the thread and noticed you mentioned you were in the Army.

 

I Stand Corrected: Jetta Red has a valid point

Just checked some youtube videos, see below and realized how easy it is to change your own oil and filter using an extractor, especially when you have an air compressor as I do. At 50K miles when I will change the two engine air cleaners, I have a 2019 E450 V6, with the engine cover off, I will also change my oil and filter. If everything goes as I think it will, changing both engine air filters, oil and oil filter should not take more than one hour. Two Fram filters @$17.75 each, $35.50,Mann oil filter, $11.50, 7 quarts Mobil 1 oil, $49A, total less than $100. Savings should be several hundred vs. the dealer.


and

,

 

The M176 engine is technologically advanced, featuring an oil filter underneath the skid plate underneath the engine, and no dipstick.

 

That certainly sounds like a move in the right direction.

 

If you are going with Mobil 1 0W-40 or 5W-40, be sure to get the new stock which is API SP rated. There is some old stock still out there that is rated API SN. API SP is recommended as protection against LSPI.

 

 

Thanks!

 

I completely agree on suctioning the oil through the dipstick tube. It's MUCH quicker and I've confirmed it fully evacuates the used oil. Additionally, you don't even have to stick the suction tube down into the oil pan. The dipstick tube itself does that and you only have secure the suction to the top of the dipstick tube. This further reduces mess and clean-up.

 

Only if the suction tube is big enough to cover the top of the dipstick tube, as you said. Otherwise, use a smaller diameter tube and put it in all the way to the bottom of the oil pan.

 

Update:

Just went to Costco:

• Mobil 1 0W-40, full European is now on sale: 6 quarts delivered $33.99. This is rated API SN. (not API SP)

see: https://www.costco.com/mobil-1-0w-40...100169676.html

• Mobil 1 5W -30: 6 quarts delivered $33.99: This oil is rated API, SP, SN

see: https://www.costco.com/mobil-1-advan...100169695.html

 

About the same price/quart as Walmart's standard price -- 5 qt. jug for $28. Walmart recently had most of its synthetic oil brands on sale at $25/jug. Sam's Club's standard price is always higher than Walmart's -- go figure(?).

 

Mobil 1 0W-40 rated API SN is old stock. New stock is API SP rated. I've switched to 5W-40, so I probably won't go back. And for years I ran Mobil 1 API SN before API SP became prominent. Still, I'd go with another brand if I had to get 5W-40 API SP and it wasn't available in the brand I like.

 

Or just move on to Pennzoil or Motul : ) ?

 

Thanks!

Another excellent choice.

I keep wondering why the "A" service, with coupon is $225 and my Indy shop $150. The oil is $40, the filter $12, total at most $55 - the rest is labor.

 

Thanks and I remembered your prior post about API SN being old stock and AP SP being new stock. Interesting the "European" blend is the old stock.

I am comfortable with 5W-30 and taking your advice, API SP.

From the Internet:

API SP motor oils boast advancements in managing sludge and varnish, preserving engine cleanliness and operational efficiency. When compared to the previous API SN standard, API SP represents a leap forward with notable improvements in aspects such as oxidation resistance, wear protection, and deposit control.

see: https://www.google.com/search?q=API+...t=gws-wiz-serp

 

Honestly, I think changing the oil often probably avoids many of the negatives when comparing SN to SP. If you are running 10,000 to 15,000 mile change intervals, then it will make a big difference. Changing the oil every 3,000 to 5,000 probably less. Still, I want the best available (within reason), especially on a turbo car.

 

Yup, curious, do you do 3000 or 5000 intervals?

 

I've always have done 5k intervals but am now considering 3k intervals.

Remember the old Jiffy Lube commercials about changing your oil every 3,000 miles? Maybe there was something to that.

 

I see : )

 

Of course there was...more money for Jiffy Lube.

I used to do 3,000 mile changes before synthetic oil. But I did my own instead of lining the pockets of Jiffy Lube execs.

 

So what intervals are you doing nowadays?

 

I followed MB's 3k mile recommendation on my new 1977 300d.
At that time I was commuting between Clearwater and Bonita Springs 5 days a week (1,500 miles).
Oil was changed every other week. IIRC I put 500k miles on it.

I forgot to mention that other than routine maintenance the only other items were batteries, brakes, tires, wiper blades and a windshield.
(never get behind a gravel truck)

 

7,500 miles

My last 2 cars went past 200K miles. Had a Volvo that went 360K miles and it was the transmission that ended that car's life, not the engine.