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I have some extra time off this week, so I think it is finally time to install my aftermarket sub into my 2017 E43 AMG with the non-3D Bermester system. I figured I'd post here since this isn't specific to the AMG.
This will be my fourth time tapping into a factory system using an LOC, an AudioControl LC2i in this setup, so I am familiar with the process.
I'm unsure, however, which factory wire off the amp to tap into. Perhaps I will just tap into the subwoofer itself. Also, is there a good fuse in the trunk or even a wire from the factory amp itself to tap into for the amp remote turn on wire? Does anyone have any wiring diagrams they would be so kind to share?
I've yet to start tearing anything apart, so I'm unfamiliar with the layout and placement of everything. I'm hoping not to go into this blind.
I have some extra time off this week, so I think it is finally time to install my aftermarket sub into my 2017 E43 AMG with the non-3D Bermester system. I figured I'd post here since this isn't specific to the AMG.
This will be my fourth time tapping into a factory system using an LOC, an AudioControl LC2i in this setup, so I am familiar with the process.
I'm unsure, however, which factory wire off the amp to tap into. Perhaps I will just tap into the subwoofer itself. Also, is there a good fuse in the trunk or even a wire from the factory amp itself to tap into for the amp remote turn on wire? Does anyone have any wiring diagrams they would be so kind to share?
I've yet to start tearing anything apart, so I'm unfamiliar with the layout and placement of everything. I'm hoping not to go into this blind.
Thanks in advance!
Check my post on installing a DSP amplifier with factory OEM plug and play harness. No tapping, no splicing or no guessing. It’s out of this world if you’re a music lover which you appear to be. I even installed an overhead tweeter.
No guessing on power or fuse. Fully controllable via Bluetooth module and your phone.
Check my post on installing a DSP amplifier with factory OEM plug and play harness. No tapping, no splicing or no guessing. It’s out of this world if you’re a music lover which you appear to be. I even installed an overhead tweeter.
No guessing on power or fuse. Fully controllable via Bluetooth module and your phone.
Oh, wow. You just gave me quite a bit to consider. To be honest, I'm really unhappy with the Burmester Premium. I would say it is good when compared to what you might find in other lesser brands. But I'm coming from The Mark Levinson system from my LS460 and I constantly feel like I'm missing out. I distinctly remember how certain songs sounded on my ML system and every time I play one of those songs, I wish I had been patient and found an E43 with the Burmester 3D system.
I will definitely be doing some research into your setup. But alas, I just need to get a little extra boom in the trunk right now. I was hoping to start this tomorrow. So unfortunately, I am going to have to resort to some hackery for now lol.
Oh, wow. You just gave me quite a bit to consider. To be honest, I'm really unhappy with the Burmester Premium. I would say it is good when compared to what you might find in other lesser brands. But I'm coming from The Mark Levinson system from my LS460 and I constantly feel like I'm missing out. I distinctly remember how certain songs sounded on my ML system and every time I play one of those songs, I wish I had been patient and found an E43 with the Burmester 3D system.
I will definitely be doing some research into your setup. But alas, I just need to get a little extra boom in the trunk right now. I was hoping to start this tomorrow. So unfortunately, I am going to have to resort to some hackery for now lol.
Trust me, you will definately not regret it. I was also dissapointed with the Burmester Premium and decided to do this. You would not believe it's the same speakers
Trust me, you will definately not regret it. I was also dissapointed with the Burmester Premium and decided to do this. You would not believe it's the same speakers
Have you had a chance to compare your setup to the Burmester 3D?
Also, what are your thoughts on replacing the tweeters in the door/window corner with the 3D ones that swivel out?
Have you had a chance to compare your setup to the Burmester 3D?
Also, what are your thoughts on replacing the tweeters in the door/window corner with the 3D ones that swivel out?
Unfortunately I have not compared the DSP with the Burmester 3D, however I guarantee you that the DSP will sound better. The 3D has speakers in the roof, which I couldn’t care less about. I could have added those aftermarket as well but chose not to. I have replaced my door/window corner speakers with the rotating LED 3D ones. Overhead tweeters (OEM) LED 3D rotating speaker (aftermarket)
LED turbine air vent ( OEM) LED 3D rotating speaker (aftermarket)
LED turbine air vent ( OEM)
Last edited by kingscorpian27; May 23, 2025 at 03:20 PM.
I haven't had a chance to research your setup yet, as I'm actually in the middle of something, but damn, this looks like a route I might go down
Are you able to crank the volume much higher as well?
Absolutely without any distortion. You don’t even need to crank it up for it to sound good, you can keep it low and mellow, with all the bass, miss and treble you desire .
The Musway M12 has 12 channels and 16 DSP channels
My configuration
Chanel 1: front left rotating tweeter and front speaker
Chanel 2: front right rotating tweeter and front speaker
Chanel 3: rear left/rear deck
Chanel 4: rear right/rear deck
Chanel 5: factory center/Dash
Chanel 6: front ceiling tweeters
Chanel 7: left surround/rear door
Chanel 8: right surround/rear door
Chanels 9+10: left sub/front footwell
Chanels 11+12: right sub/front footwell
The elegant and well thought out MUSWAY M12 is groundbreaking. There truly is nothing else that can compare. The M12 has 12 channels of amplification featuring 12 x 85 Watts at 4 Ohms, 12 x 120 Watts at 2 Ohms and is bridgeable at 240 Watts @ 4 Ohms. It also offers 16 channels of Digital Sound Processing! The heart of the M12 is the ADAU1452 processor from Analog Devices®, which is highly coveted by audiophile connoisseurs. The M12 appeals to enthusiasts who want to be able to tune their complex loudspeaker system in the vehicle for the best possible playback and at the same time be able to control it easily without complex cabling or the installation of several devices.
[img alt="Musway M12 DSP Amplifier app configuration
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbworld.org-vbulletin/920x2000/img_6002_2f7c1b3e58d70d0ba7f8dc57fabcd3d565d7b3be. png[/img] Musway M12 DSP Amplifier app configuration Musway M12 DSP Amplifier app configuration Musway M12 DSP Amplifier app configuration Musway M12 DSP Amplifier app configuration
Last edited by kingscorpian27; May 23, 2025 at 06:41 PM.
So I ended up not really starting the project. Things came up. I started tearing the interior out this weekend though.
I'm not sure where I should tap into. I know a lot of people tap into the wiring for a woofer but what is the frequency range? I haven't taken off the cover for the woofer, but I imagine it doesn't have a separate crossover, that's regulated at the amplifier level, correct? So I'm sure the signal going to the woofers, is not as low as one would like for the subwoofer. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
So I ended up not really starting the project. Things came up. I started tearing the interior out this weekend though.
I'm not sure where I should tap into. I know a lot of people tap into the wiring for a woofer but what is the frequency range? I haven't taken off the cover for the woofer, but I imagine it doesn't have a separate crossover, that's regulated at the amplifier level, correct? So I'm sure the signal going to the woofers, is not as low as one would like for the subwoofer. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
Pretty sure that you’re right, I personally wouldn’t mess around with any of those wires. I initially ran a splitter from the dashboard center speaker to the overhead tweeters I installed. The only way you could hear anything was to had your ears pressed against them, literally, which wasn’t possible for use.
Once I ran the overhead tweeters
directly off the DSP amplifier on their own channels, you’d not believe the difference they make when listening to music. Trust me when I tell you, you can’t go wrong or definitely won’t regret it by doing what I did. You can always switch it to an other vehicle you have in the future, just purchase a new harness, since they are vehicle or amp specific. All’s plug and play and seemly with OEM amp, on of, nothing to worry about, no overheating or anything
I’ve done a lot to my car and this is my favorite mod so far. Just changed my rotors and brakes because of brake judder every couple years, this will be either the 3rd or 4th time in 8 years.
@kingscorpian27 I would like to do that in the future but home renovations come first. I just bought an old Victorian home earlier this year, so as you can imagine, I'm focusing my resources on that. I'm barely even finding time to keep up with maintenance and do this sub install.
Are you aware of any kind of adapter that can provide me with a clean, full spectrum signal? If not, I think I'll just have to settle with tapping the woofers for now.
I might have to try that Mercedes subscription thing. Maybe I can find a wiring diagram for the amp. I would rather tap in the trunk, than run more wires through the cabin.
@kingscorpian27 I would like to do that in the future but home renovations come first. I just bought an old Victorian home earlier this year, so as you can imagine, I'm focusing my resources on that. I'm barely even finding time to keep up with maintenance and do this sub install.
Are you aware of any kind of adapter that can provide me with a clean, full spectrum signal? If not, I think I'll just have to settle with tapping the woofers for now.
I might have to try that Mercedes subscription thing. Maybe I can find a wiring diagram for the amp. I would rather tap in the trunk, than run more wires through the cabin.
I would need to check with my source and get back to you, do you have the Burmester amp or standard?
Wow... I can't believe I'm still not done with this project. I'm so busy that I keep having to work on it in bits and pieces.
I ended up just tapping into a front woofer.. for now. I couldn't find a wiring diagram for the amp, so I ended up doing it right at the woofer. Hopefully, I can get a more permanent and cleaner solution. I've yet to get anything going on that adapter. I need to reach out but I've just been so busy.
I managed to get all the little boxes that the wiring harness runs through. I ran my power and LOC control wire through there. It's nice and clean.
I just need to figure out where to put my ground. So far I'm thinking either the rear seat bracket or on the bolt where those hook things screw into the trunk. I'm not getting a reading on my voltage detector, then I try using either as a ground, even if I stick the tip in the bolt hole threads. I suspect it's just not a good connection. If I sand the paint off to the metal, I think I should get a good ground.
Wow... I can't believe I'm still not done with this project. I'm so busy that I keep having to work on it in bits and pieces.
I ended up just tapping into a front woofer.. for now. I couldn't find a wiring diagram for the amp, so I ended up doing it right at the woofer. Hopefully, I can get a more permanent and cleaner solution. I've yet to get anything going on that adapter. I need to reach out but I've just been so busy.
I managed to get all the little boxes that the wiring harness runs through. I ran my power and LOC control wire through there. It's nice and clean.
I just need to figure out where to put my ground. So far I'm thinking either the rear seat bracket or on the bolt where those hook things screw into the trunk. I'm not getting a reading on my voltage detector, then I try using either as a ground, even if I stick the tip in the bolt hole threads. I suspect it's just not a good connection. If I sand the paint off to the metal, I think I should get a good ground.
Here's what I'm looking at now.
Here is a great ground connection that I used for my DSP amplifier, it is on the right hand side, I think behind the panel if I remember correctly.
Here is a great ground connection that I used for my DSP amplifier, it is on the right hand side, I think behind the panel if I remember correctly.
I thought you weren't supposed to share a ground point, with the vehicle's electronic components, because it could cause a ground loop, potentially damaging components?
I thought you weren't supposed to share a ground point, with the vehicle's electronic components, because it could cause a ground loop, potentially damaging components?
That location was provided to me by an automotive electronics shop installer who does this for a living so he would have known. I am going a couple years now without any issues
I thought you weren't supposed to share a ground point, with the vehicle's electronic components, because it could cause a ground loop, potentially damaging components?
Having separate grounding points contributes to ground loops.
A single ground point is always preferred.
This holds for all things electric.
However if the audio system is purposely being lifted from electrical ground for the right reasons then that could be an exception
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
