Strong Regeneration
Find that each time I start the vehicle it’s in ‘Normal’. Is there a way to save the regen setting so I don’t need to start I normal?
Reason I ask is because I back out of my garage onto a hill so turn on car, put in drive, flip to strong regen, then back out. Trying to save a few seconds/steps in the AM or when I need to back out.












1. Physics of regeneration: By and large, coasting is more efficient; at best, the motors will convert 40-60% of your kinetic energy back to the battery during regeneration. The rest is lost as heat. Coasting, on the other hand, is mostly free. There are friction losses and some back-EMF losses from the permanent magnet motors (especially if no disconnect unit, like my sedan), but these are just a few percent compared to heat and inefficiency losses from regeneration. It's better to coast as long as possible, rather than accelerating and regenerating.
2. Braking system: EQE is brake-by-wire. The strategies of brake blending are different in the different recuperation modes. If you go into Vehicle Information section in the main MBUX interface, you can see that there is a "brake" entry percentage bar. This actually is only indicating service (friction) brakes. In Normal and Maximum recuperation modes, as soon as regen starts kicking in, you'll notice an immediate 9-10% service brakes have also applied. This is to give you good brake blending, and a good braking experience. By contrast, if you use "No Recuperation" mode and look at the same screen, service brake percentage is 0% when coasting, and 1% when applying the brake pedal up to about 50% application. Beyond 50% brake application, you'll notice the service brake percentage creep past 1-2%. The brake blending is and feels different. So, that means for "maximum" and "normal" modes, there may be a bit more friction efficiency losses due to the improved brake blending feel and performance. In "no recuperation" mode, you actually end up maximizing the regeneration when you actually use the brake pedal, unless you add a lot of brake input.




1. Physics of regeneration: By and large, coasting is more efficient; at best, the motors will convert 40-60% of your kinetic energy back to the battery during regeneration. The rest is lost as heat. Coasting, on the other hand, is mostly free. There are friction losses and some back-EMF losses from the permanent magnet motors (especially if no disconnect unit, like my sedan), but these are just a few percent compared to heat and inefficiency losses from regeneration. It's better to coast as long as possible, rather than accelerating and regenerating.
2. Braking system: EQE is brake-by-wire. The strategies of brake blending are different in the different recuperation modes. If you go into Vehicle Information section in the main MBUX interface, you can see that there is a "brake" entry percentage bar. This actually is only indicating service (friction) brakes. In Normal and Maximum recuperation modes, as soon as regen starts kicking in, you'll notice an immediate 9-10% service brakes have also applied. This is to give you good brake blending, and a good braking experience. By contrast, if you use "No Recuperation" mode and look at the same screen, service brake percentage is 0% when coasting, and 1% when applying the brake pedal up to about 50% application. Beyond 50% brake application, you'll notice the service brake percentage creep past 1-2%. The brake blending is and feels different. So, that means for "maximum" and "normal" modes, there may be a bit more friction efficiency losses due to the improved brake blending feel and performance. In "no recuperation" mode, you actually end up maximizing the regeneration when you actually use the brake pedal, unless you add a lot of brake input.
Last edited by HBerman; Sep 14, 2024 at 07:20 PM.




1. Physics of regeneration: By and large, coasting is more efficient; at best, the motors will convert 40-60% of your kinetic energy back to the battery during regeneration. The rest is lost as heat. Coasting, on the other hand, is mostly free. There are friction losses and some back-EMF losses from the permanent magnet motors (especially if no disconnect unit, like my sedan), but these are just a few percent compared to heat and inefficiency losses from regeneration. It's better to coast as long as possible, rather than accelerating and regenerating.
2. Braking system: EQE is brake-by-wire. The strategies of brake blending are different in the different recuperation modes. If you go into Vehicle Information section in the main MBUX interface, you can see that there is a "brake" entry percentage bar. This actually is only indicating service (friction) brakes. In Normal and Maximum recuperation modes, as soon as regen starts kicking in, you'll notice an immediate 9-10% service brakes have also applied. This is to give you good brake blending, and a good braking experience. By contrast, if you use "No Recuperation" mode and look at the same screen, service brake percentage is 0% when coasting, and 1% when applying the brake pedal up to about 50% application. Beyond 50% brake application, you'll notice the service brake percentage creep past 1-2%. The brake blending is and feels different. So, that means for "maximum" and "normal" modes, there may be a bit more friction efficiency losses due to the improved brake blending feel and performance. In "no recuperation" mode, you actually end up maximizing the regeneration when you actually use the brake pedal, unless you add a lot of brake input.
Last edited by HBerman; Sep 15, 2024 at 11:01 AM.
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So I've been one pedal driving for nine years and it's by far my preference so I use the strong regeneration. But MB has made a real mess of regeneration by changing the driving characteristics of the car in each mode. The regeneration setting should only affect what happens when you lift off the pedal, but MB has changed what happens when you depress the pedal as well. The Go pedal requires a different level of pressure in each mode to effect the same movement of the car. That completely screws up the driving experience. It's difficult to delicately move the EQE, as when in a tight parking situation, when it's set to strong, so I end up switching to Normal or None. However, I will experiment with the Auto recuperation to see if that provides a predictable driving experience while maximizing regeneration.
It seems like this thread has an undercurrent of range anxiety.
If you cannot charge at home, then that is understandable as the problem is not getting to the destination, but anxiety about where/when/how soon you have to charge next. And if you are pioneer, living in a state or region with very limited charging facilities it's also an understandable concern.
If you can charge at home, range anxiety is a transitory fear which fades with time. The 350 4Matic is nominally about 280 miles of range. A 125 mile trip, 250 mile round trip day, is entirely feasible. On road trips it's binary, you'll either make one charging stop, or not. There are very few occasions on which you will need to drive more than 450 miles in a day.
My point being that adjusting your preferred driving experience to save energy or micro-managing the energy consumption is probably not something you did with an ICE car, and is not necessary in the EQ.
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My original thought was that normal and strong regen use varying degree of rheostatic braking to slow the car down, and then use the mechanical brakes to put the car into the final stop position. In no regen, stepping on the brakes would actually use the mechanical brakes to slow the car down and stop and regen is used secondary and not primary to slow the car down. In normal mode, the car would use rheostatic brake to slow the car down, but if you step on the brakes, it would use the mechanical brakes in conjunction with the rheostatic braking to slow the car down and mechanical brake to bring the car to the final stop. So goes for strong regen with the car using more rheostatic braking then normal regen. Hence the brake pedal feels harder in strong regen because stepping on it to a certain degree will mean using the mechanical brakes to increase the slowing down of the vehicle by the strong rheostatic braking.
Therefore, driving in no regen is most efficient when you don't have to brake a lot. But if you are in a stop and go or light to light, the regen modes will help recoup the efficiency and put less wear on the mechanical brakes.
Last edited by MB37; Oct 19, 2024 at 11:03 PM.




My original thought was that normal and strong regen use varying degree of rheostatic braking to slow the car down, and then use the mechanical brakes to put the car into the final stop position. In no regen, stepping on the brakes would actually use the mechanical brakes to slow the car down and stop and regen is used secondary and not primary to slow the car down. In normal mode, the car would use rheostatic brake to slow the car down, but if you step on the brakes, it would use the mechanical brakes in conjunction with the rheostatic braking to slow the car down and mechanical brake to bring the car to the final stop. So goes for strong regen with the car using more rheostatic braking then normal regen. Hence the brake pedal feels harder in strong regen because stepping on it to a certain degree will mean using the mechanical brakes to increase the slowing down of the vehicle by the strong rheostatic braking.
Therefore, driving in no regen is most efficient when you don't have to brake a lot. But if you are in a stop and go or light to light, the regen modes will help recoup the efficiency and put less wear on the mechanical brakes.






