I mean that now all makes sense, especially not everywhere snows in winter part. I can't believe I forgot about the obvious.

 

That is a good question, I don't really think it is an EV tire (or designed with EV in mind at all) so it might be pretty substantial in range reduction.

 

As well as not everywhere drops below 7c or 45?F in the winter.

 

Not a summer tire, but here's a comparison between the OE EV optimized All-Season on the Tesla Model 3 vs the CC2 on the same vehicle. Should give you an idea. Tires are ultimately a compromise and you have to decide what's more important to your situation in a tire.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests...KyJiHRTbtTlB1y

 

Thanks learned something today.

 

Thanks for the info! I don’t have slippery as a dynamic, but can try sport and will get some winter tires.

 

Keep us posted on how it goes! The 5 year old in me can't wait for more snow!

 

Western NY needs you. They have over 5 feet, and more coming. Might as well spec out a plow blade.

 

Yeah, I read that. I think 5 feet might be about an inch higher than the EQE's ground clearance. Hey, if we could spread it around down here instead of piling up there, we'd be happy to help. Stay safe if you're up there!

 

We've been using dedicated snow tires since the 1990's living in northern WI. While the DWS and CrossClimates of the world are making the decision more fuzzy, I think it is worth having two sets of wheels/tires. If you save yourself one fender bender (or worse accident with injuries), it will have all been worth the trouble and expense. Keep in mind the miles put on your snow tires are not being put on your summer tires. And, you can always sell your wheels/tires on Craigslist after you are done with the car. One thing for certain--do not ever get caught with true summer tires in snowy or icy conditions. The car literally has no traction and it is like driving on hockey pucks. Been caught twice like that and I don't need a third lesson. Plus, as others have alluded to, snow tires are a hoot in a blizzard. I've actually run errands before in the middle of blizzards when no one else is out. While probably not the smartest move, it was fun and the vehicle is like a mountain goat with Nokian snow tires.

 

Speaking of which back in the days I love snow as a kid but ever since owning a car hate the snow.

It is not the snow that is the problem it is the corrosive salt being the issue.

Actually I guess blame the snow too for more car accidents on the road because they trust all season tires too much and for the twice a year tire change (other than rotation), my poor back.
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​​​​​​Totally hear you on that. I'm paranoid and under carriage wash the second it gets over freezing. Here in KY, they salt the roads like you wouldn't believe. Love driving in the snow when I'm the only one on the road, lol. I used to get 6-for-4 car wash passes, but with ceramic coat now, and wanting to keep the paint in good shape, it's either touchless or hand wash for me, every time I see salt spray.

 

I live in Canada so they pretty much salt it 24/7 worse is they use brine which is even worse than road salt. That said I agree undercarriage wash is crucial. I also came across this thread on undercarriage spray: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...rcarriage.html

Obviously better late than never, thoughts on this if we should apply some?

 

My main concern with that is the risk of trapping moisture or any corrosives under the wax. I guess if done right it could work, but I think with enough washing of the chassis and undercarriage, it should remain in good shape. The steel is galvanized, which should help some.

 

Ah that is so true unlike Japanese vehicles for example that pretty much always need to do rust proofing.

 

You statement might be true for pre 2000 models and North American cars. I owned 3 well cared Acura's over 20 years, no rustproofing, driving on Toronto roads regularly during winter that were salt blasted, and did not have any signs of rust.

 

I see, good to hear as it might be a mindset issue as in my friends that owns Japanese vehicles always does rust proofing when they get a new vehicle, ill tell them it isn't necessary.

 

I lived in MI, and we always had two sets of tires, one set for the winter which were proper M+S (Mud & Snow) tires, and the other set was the all weather for spring, summer, and early fall. We would switch around the time of the first snowfall in the fall and when the weather changed in the spring (e.g. no more snowfalls expected). The winter tires were studded, as I recall. You need proper snow rated tires, and I will echo the recommendation to not use strong recuperation as that is a heavy braking action and could easily break you loose from the road. In good conditions (roads damp but with snow completely cleared) maybe normal recuperation would be okay, but safer would be none as you never know when you might hit black ice. The static coefficient of friction on snow is very low, and you can end up sliding very easily with even a slightly too heavy braking. Having done that a few times that is excitement you do not need! (In my case I was lucky the drivers around me were more experienced and got out of the way as I slid around.)
Remember too that an EV has a LOT of torque, much more than an ICE vehicle at low speeds. You need a VERY light touch on the accelerator, or you will easily break the car loose from the road. You may recall a dramatic chase scene over snow/ice in a couple of sports cars in one of the James Bond movies; the preparation for that scene involved replacing the engines in both cars with sub 50 HP motors to prevent the stunt drivers from fishtailing or spinning out.

Drive as if you have an egg on the accelerator and brake pedal. Not a regular egg, a DDT weakened one.

 

To further quantify @ehildum 's excellent comments, I'll add this:

1. If you have a 2024+ model-year sedan, or any year SUV, you have a front disconnect unit (DCU). Under most coasting or driving conditions (minus acceleration from a stoplight or heavier braking), your front driveshaft is disconnected. Regeneration, if any used, is done only by the rear motor, unless more regen is requested in which case the front driveshaft connects in about 1/4 second and front motor applies. Driving, other than acceleration or stronger braking, is only done by the rear motor unless conditions change.

2. If you have a 2023 sedan, you don't have a front disconnect unit (DCU). (My sedan is a '23). Both power and regen shift from front to rear based on speed range. As an example, 0-25 MPH is rear-driven, 25-60 is front-motor driven, and 60+ is rear-driven, to maximize the torque and efficiency curves of each respective motor. Applying additional accelerator or regen of course engages the otherwise-disengaged motor. No disconnect unit means this is faster.

3. If regenerating and you have wheel lockup, regen decreases as much as possible to reduce slippage. You can see the charge percentage indicator drop dynamically based on wheel slip. You'll also notice that your ESP light starts flashing. However, there's a limit to how effective this can be, and ABS should be implemented instead to get faster per-wheel control. It's possible that ABS is already engaging lightly, as the brake-by-wire system chooses what haptic feedback to give back to the driver. I'd have to see a slow-motion exterior view to see what's really going on.

4. If you have a DCU ('24+ sedan, all SUV), and you drive in sport mode, the DCU remains engaged, always. Efficiency probably drops about 5% or less, and you get a bit more NVH feeling during operation. However, it may be worth doing so to reduce any engagement time. Just be aware of throttle response! In Sport mode, the car behaves like a MY'23 sedan, and changes power application between rear, front, or both based on speed and motor efficiency; it just keeps the DCU engaged at all times. In Comfort mode, the car basically only operates with the rear motor after initial acceleration or harder braking, unless more control or power is needed.

5. If you have an SUV and really need to minimize slip, use Offroad mode. Not only does it keep DCU engaged, it also *constantly* powers both motors. That way, it doesn't wait to power up a motor unit if slip is detected. It's the most stable driving mode. However, given how fast the drivetrain responds, I honestly haven't noticed any significant difference between the modes, at least when starting off. Maybe a very minimal amount of rear wheel slip to get started, but the difference is hardly noticeable.

Hope that helps!

 

This is something I hadn't considered. Makes total sense. Thanks for the tip, Bytemaster!

 

I had trouble with the link above. I think I found the same report here: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests...y.jsp?ttid=298

 

wow good info, didn't know a model year change was that significant on the sedan.

 

Yes, that's the same report.