When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I removed the passenger side front and rear wheels in order to take some measurements for calculating the length of the links to lower the car. The factory set up lowers the car by 15mm when in Sport Mode and driving at 75mph or above. The Brabus electronic module lowers the EQS sedan up to 15mm and 25mm in the front and rear respectively. I set a target amount of 15mm to lower the SUV to try for a few thousand miles to determine how evenly the tires wear with the longer links.
It's not very easy to take measurements of the suspension components while they are installed on the car. I tried to be as accurate as possible. The length of the suspension arms to which the ball studs are mounted for both the front and the rear is 320mm. This measurement is taken at the centerline of the pivot point on either end of the arms. The suspension side ball stud is mounted 108mm from the inner pivot point in the rear, and 83mm from the inner pivot point in the front. If I am oversimplifying the calculation of the change in link length to drop the car 15mm, I welcome any comments to correct my understanding of the suspension geometry.
Rear: 108/320 * 15 = 5.06mm (round to 5.0mm)
Front: 83/320 * 15 = 3.89mm (round to 4.0mm)
I plan to make some adjustable links that are 50mm long for the rear and 89mm long for the front to verify my logic.
Questions for you. My SUV air out in my garage when i get home. It always in C mode by default. Which mode is the lowest and why does it raise the height by itself? Is there a setting that keep the SUV from going up?
Questions for you. My SUV air out in my garage when i get home. It always in C mode by default. Which mode is the lowest and why does it raise the height by itself? Is there a setting that keep the SUV from going up?
I don't pretend to fully understand the airmatic suspension system in the EQS SUV. As far as I know, the only driver selectable option is to choose between normal ride height and the 30mm higher raised height. The raised height can only be used up to 43 mph. When in Comfort Mode, the chassis lowers 10mm at speeds over 75 mph and returns to normal height when speed drops below 50 mph. When in Sport Mode the chassis drops 15mm at speeds over 75 mph.
I also hear the airmatic system appear to be releasing air when I park and exit the SUV. I assumed this was because the SUV is a little lighter after the driver and passengers exit.
This is what you get for ~$200 when you order a rear right ride level sensor assembly. The MSRP is closer to $300. The sensor and link are pre-assembled with the brackets. Each of the four corners has a separate part number since the brackets are different for each position. The plastic ball studs are 10mm in diameter. The suspension side ball stud has a metal "base" and post, but the actual ball is plastic. It is relatively difficult to remove the link from the ball studs since the opening in the socket on the link is only ~7.6mm. Removing the link probably compromises its retention capacity. I suspect MB considers the links a one-time-use component. What looks like a screw attaching the sensor arm to the sensor is NOT a screw, even though it has a torx socket in it.
I am in the process of having a tool made to remove the links without damaging the ball studs, brackets, or sensor arm.
This is what you get for ~$200 when you order a rear right ride level sensor assembly. The MSRP is closer to $300. The sensor and link are pre-assembled with the brackets. Each of the four corners has a separate part number since the brackets are different for each position. The plastic ball studs are 10mm in diameter. The suspension side ball stud has a metal "base" and post, but the actual ball is plastic. It is relatively difficult to remove the link from the ball studs since the opening in the socket on the link is only ~7.6mm. Removing the link probably compromises its retention capacity. I suspect MB considers the links a one-time-use component. What looks like a screw attaching the sensor arm to the sensor is NOT a screw, even though it has a torx socket in it.
I am in the process of having a tool made to remove the links without damaging the ball studs, brackets, or sensor arm.
Was just perusing looking for a post about lowering links and wanted to forward these to you:
Used this on my 2019 740i and they worked like an absolute charm.
They are a super popular brand on the BMW/bimmerpost forums so check them out on there to see what they do to other air suspension cars (7 series etc).
Made a super quick 2 min photoshop of a few EQS SUV's. Might have lowered the grey one a bit much. :P
I did consider ordering the Ghost Links for my EQS SUV. I corresponded with Ghost Motorsports a few months ago and received this note: "This set of links definitely requires professional installation. It requires some drilling and modifying two of the ride height sensors. This set is a 4 link set."
My interpretation of this message is that once Ghost Links are installed, reverting back to the factory links will require purchasing two new sensor assemblies (probably for the rear).
I made a tool to remove the ball socket link from the ride height sensor arm and suspension side brackets. To date, I have been practicing on the sensor assembly that is not installed in the car. The OEM links have a small ~7.5mm opening that needs to be stretched over a 10mm ball stud when installing or removing the link. Using pry bars or pliers to remove the links risks damaging the sensor arm, front suspension bracket, or plastic ball studs. The tool I made functions well but is too crude to post photos of in its present state. Next step is to have the tool replicated at a machine shop. In the mean time here is a photo of the right rear sensor, suspension side bracket, and factory link. Disassembled EQS SUV right rear ride height sensor.
After comparing measurements between normal ride height and the "off-road" raised ride height, I am estimating that a 5mm increase in the length of the rear link will lower the chassis about 15mm. The stock rear link is only 45mm long. It's not really feasible to use off-the-shelf components to make an adjustable turnbuckle style link for the rear. Threaded ball sockets alone are a minimum of 25mm long so a 50mm link would not even have room for jam nuts. I decided to make some rear links using two right hand threaded ball sockets.
I evaluated several different ball sockets. I ruled out the common metal sockets because the internal spring retaining clip would almost certainly gouge the plastic ball studs. I considered the IGUS links with ball cap liners but the ball on the sensor arm is outside the specifications (too small) for these ball sockets so it will not attach securely. For my initial links I decided to use the IGUS removable ball sockets. They are 30mm long so I had to trim the length by a few millimeters to make rear links. The sockets have a mold cavity mark on them and the threads start at different positions for sockets made in different cavities. In order to make the two links the same length I had to sort through the ball sockets to find two pair from the same mold cavities. This would not be a problem with turnbuckle style links because they can be adjusted to the desired length. The first two links I made are 50.5mm long so I am expecting the rear to be lowered between 16mm and 17mm. The minimum adjustment for the rear links is 1mm. I plan to make the front links using left-hand and right-hand ball sockets. That way I will be able to adjust the link length to change the front ride height the same amount as the rear is lowered with the 50.5mm rear links.
Lowering the SUV by 15mm to 17mm is a conservative amount since this is the same amount that the car is lowered when reaching 75 mph in Sport Mode. I am assuming that the increased negative camber when the car is lowered 15mm is still within the allowable range. I understand that this may not be the case when the extra 15mm in Sport Mode is activated once the base chassis level is adjusted downwards. Shortened IGUS removable ball socket compared to standard socket length.
Socket with ball cap bearing does not securely attach to sensor arm ball stud.
I completed assembly of the adjustable front and rear links. The length of the factory links (center-to-center) are 85mm/45mm for the front/rear. I made the adjustable links 88.3mm/50.5mm for the front/rear. The rear link is "sealed" with heat shrink tubing. Once I fine tune the length of the front links to match the amount lowered by the rear links I will shrink some tubing over the sockets and jam nuts. Eventually I plan to have some custom length links made using flexible ball sockets that enclose the plastic ***** more fully like the factory links do. I ordered a special tool for removing the links without damaging the brackets or sensor arms. Once I have this tool in hand I will install the adjustable links. EQS SUV adjustable ride level links.
Here's my first attempt at making an OEM-like link. It uses a ball socket made from a flexible material that encloses the plastic ball stud like the factory link. It does not require lubrication. This one is 90mm long center-to-center, but I have not decided what length I will finally use. 1st attempt at OEM-like front link.
Slight variation of the painted aluminum link in post #36. This one uses a 316 stainless steel tube with four set screws to secure the sockets. Heat shrink tubing conceals the set screws which are epoxied in place. The finished link has OEM-like sockets that encloses the plastic ball to seal out road dirt. Dry lubricants are embedded in the socket material obviating the need for any dirt attracting grease or oil. I plan to install a set of these as soon as I have a suitable tool to safely remove the factory links without damaging the plastic *****, sensor arms, or suspensions brackets.
51mm rear link with stainless steel tube and sockets embedded with dry lubricant.
Slight variation of the painted aluminum link in post #36. This one uses a 316 stainless steel tube with four set screws to secure the sockets. Heat shrink tubing conceals the set screws which are epoxied in place. The finished link has OEM-like sockets that encloses the plastic ball to seal out road dirt. Dry lubricants are embedded in the socket material obviating the need for any dirt attracting grease or oil. I plan to install a set of these as soon as I have a suitable tool to safely remove the factory links without damaging the plastic *****, sensor arms, or suspensions brackets.
51mm rear link with stainless steel tube and sockets embedded with dry lubricant.
I am not that familiar with the ride height sensors on the EQE SUV. But I doubt if the sensor shown in the video on in the referenced eBay listing is from an EQE. The ball studs on the EQS SUV are plastic and I would be surprised if they were not plastic on the EQE as well. The stainless steel sockets shown in the eBay listing may be a decent quality, but I would be afraid to use them on plastic ball studs since the spring retaining clip inside the socket may gouge the plastic ball, especially if you remove and re-install the link a few times.
I lowered my EQS SUV with the help of one of the remote coding companies. Since doing that I have noticed that the ride height (when parked) seems to vary somewhat from day to day. I am not certain why this is the case. When I checked the car today, it was lower than usual.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
