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It's not a problem with the paint. It's the improper use of sheet metal. Many of the panels were not properly galvanized prior to shaping and assembly. Unfortunately, this shoddy, cost-cutting measure was also prevalent on the W163, W202, W203, W210, and W220, from that era. There's nothing one can do short of replacing the entire body panel.
The rust will continue....either replace the panel (multiple ones), or sell the truck.
Wondering what years are more prone to rusting. I would think that Mercedes would have solved the problem on the latter years of the W463 production. I see lots of W463 in the Miami and so far I haven’t seen a rusted G wagon.
I also would be interested to know. I have a RR at the moment which is due to be changed. I'm looking at a 2016-2017 MY G Wagen's - I hope that his model year range is better than the earlier ones for rust - maybe its not old enough for the rust to take hold yet??!! I was quite shocked reading this thread, I know old G's suffered from rust - much evident in a few restoration videos I have seen, but for 2010 age vehicles to be affected is very surprising/worrying.
I also would be interested to know. I have a RR at the moment which is due to be changed. I'm looking at a 2016-2017 MY G Wagen's - I hope that his model year range is better than the earlier ones for rust - maybe its not old enough for the rust to take hold yet??!! I was quite shocked reading this thread, I know old G's suffered from rust - much evident in a few restoration videos I have seen, but for 2010 age vehicles to be affected is very surprising/worrying.
Thanks Richard
I don't think much of anything changed WRT construction or materials on the G-class until the 2019 model came out.
Have an ‘08 w this issue but only on the front windshield. Looking back it was evident when I bought it in ‘12 but not something I was aware of or I would have had the dealership fix it before buying. I’ve heard it referred to as cancer by techs since once it starts it won’t stop. I have read that mineral oils can be for preventative measures but no history on my end.
Wow. Good to see I'm not alone. I have a 2011 G550 with just over 50,000 miles. I have rust on the door sills, around the rear door and around the front windshield (the windshield rust isn't quite as bad as yours, but the rear door rust is worse!). I can't believe Mercedes sold cars with such bad rust protection. Not sure what I should do about it. Will it cost a lot to have a body shop sand it down and repaint it? I might just cut my losses, sell the G, and buy a Range Rover. All aluminum FTW. OP you might want to do the same.
I also would be interested to know. I have a RR at the moment which is due to be changed. I'm looking at a 2016-2017 MY G Wagen's - I hope that his model year range is better than the earlier ones for rust - maybe its not old enough for the rust to take hold yet??!! I was quite shocked reading this thread, I know old G's suffered from rust - much evident in a few restoration videos I have seen, but for 2010 age vehicles to be affected is very surprising/worrying.
Thanks Richard
Well, if what people are saying is true, the G is going to rust out unless you get one of the brand new ones. I'm thinking of switching over to a RR. You might want to stay with yours!!!
Hate to say it...owning a Mercedes-Benz collision center...ALL those preventive measures will eventually fail...the rust WILL win. Just poor workmanship on behalf of Mercedes-Benz...
Hey I've seen your center before in the news (might have been Car & Driver). Do you think I should just sell mine? I can't believe MB got so cheap. And I can't believe how much money ill get screwed out of if I go to sell a rusty car!
An off road vehicle should stand up to the elements better dont ya think? Kind of pathetic that you're forced not to drive your $100k+ SUV because it won't stand up to a little salt or water.
An off road vehicle should stand up to the elements better dont ya think? Kind of pathetic that you're forced not to drive your $100k+ SUV because it won't stand up to a little salt or water.
It’s definitely a fail on Mercedes. They know this has been a chronic issue and have done nothing to resolve.
An off road vehicle should stand up to the elements better dont ya think? Kind of pathetic that you're forced not to drive your $100k+ SUV because it won't stand up to a little salt or water.
Yeah. That's the amazing bit. I've always treated my truck well. How badly would it be falling apart if I used it for what it was built for?
I also would be interested to know. I have a RR at the moment which is due to be changed. I'm looking at a 2016-2017 MY G Wagen's - I hope that his model year range is better than the earlier ones for rust - maybe its not old enough for the rust to take hold yet??!! I was quite shocked reading this thread, I know old G's suffered from rust - much evident in a few restoration videos I have seen, but for 2010 age vehicles to be affected is very surprising/worrying.
Thanks Richard
I have 2017 G550 and found out some of the paint started to crack. It seems the paint crack where there seam, like below the windshield and rear corner above g550 logo.
Anybody else experience cracking paint? Hopefully this will take sometime before start to rust.
The paint chipped off of the rear view mirrors on my 2002 G500. That happened around 70k miles. That metal might be galvanized, as no signs of rust ever appeared.
I have 2017 G550 and found out some of the paint started to crack. It seems the paint crack where there seam, like below the windshield and rear corner above g550 logo.
Anybody else experience cracking paint? Hopefully this will take sometime before start to rust.
That's discouraging since it's still under warranty I would have MB fix it.
Mine's still perfect but will keep an eye out for these cracks in the seams.
JD101b posted to a thread I put up over there on a 2015 G that I am (was?) considering purchasing. (See photo below) It is a CERTIFIED vehicle at a local MB dealer. And I found rust near the upper rear rear door hinge. Certified? Really? But it's a beautiful vehicle and man, is it a pleasure to drive. I think my wife wants to replace me with it. LOL
However, all this discussion on rust on G Wagens is giving me serious pause. Clearly the issue is coming from rust wrapping around the back edges of the metal and working under the paint. Then JD101b's dealer is advising to use a dehumidifier in the garage? First off, it's pretty much impossible to dehumidify a garage unless its a really big dehumidifier. Second, that's about the stupidest advice I've every heard from a dealer. This isn't wedding dress we're preserving. This is a truck. I've got 14 year old W211's in the garage with ZERO rust... and I live in the rust belt in Ohio.
This is all very depressing. I really like that vehicle. If there was a way to arrest it permanently, but once it gets on the back edges of metal fenders, it's really hard. I've had other cars that were vintage that had this problem and it can be arrested, but it has to be redone every few years. There's no guarantee.
EDIT - I just called the dealership where the G is and had a conversation with their body shop. They were quite open and honest about it. They said they've seen this numerous times and they currently have a second 2015 in there that has the rust under the windshield seal problem. They said they've been successful in fixing it, but it may, or may not, come back. They cannot guarantee that particular fix. Fixing the area under the windshield requires removal of the windshield and sounded quite involved ($$). It just comes down to the metal in that area of the car as to whether you got a poorly treated panel or not according to them.
Last edited by ScottyAC8DE; 10-25-2019 at 10:58 AM.
Using a dehumidifier was my own idea. I got mine on Amazon for, I think, $300. I have an independent humidity gauge, and I can get humidity to as low as 10% when it’s on full power setting. I also use fans to circulate air up into the undercarriage and direct dry, dehumidified air at the areas prone to rust, that way, any moisture that has accumulated during the rare drive I take is dried out as quickly as possible.
I have 2017 G550 and found out some of the paint started to crack. It seems the paint crack where there seam, like below the windshield and rear corner above g550 logo.
Anybody else experience cracking paint? Hopefully this will take sometime before start to rust.
Could you take a picture for us?
Now that I think about it, any exposed metalwork is a huge liability. I’d get that addressed ASAP.
Using a dehumidifier was my own idea. I got mine on Amazon for, I think, $300. I have an independent humidity gauge, and I can get humidity to as low as 10% when it’s on full power setting. I also use fans to circulate air up into the undercarriage and direct dry, dehumidified air at the areas prone to rust, that way, any moisture that has accumulated during the rare drive I take is dried out as quickly as possible.
Sorry, I thought is was something the dealership suggested. But I get the love of a vehicle and working to preserve it. It's like my E320 CDI. Love that car. (Well, those cars. I actually have 2 of them now.) They are 14 years old and one has 334K miles on it and spent it's life driving in the rust belt. Zero rust. Nada. But having to go to a lot of constant trouble is something I won't do and I'm not sure its going to work. In my case, with 4 drivers in the house, the garage doors are always opening, so a humidifier would do very little frankly. And in the winter, it's not going to do anything. The air is already pretty dry due to the cold, but the water, salt and ice hangs onto the cars slowly melting.
IMO, keeping water and salt from getting to the problem areas is what is key. My guess is the wind from driving is forcing it up under that seal. So getting it repaired first and then sealing is probably worth a try. Using something like polyurethane windshield adhesive under the seal might be a good bet, if you can get the body shop to do that. Once that stuff is set, nothing short of a very sharp knife is going to get through it. Water certainly can't, but the seal has to be 100%
When I look at the seal trim around the hinge on the rear door, it's just a plastic piece. That's not going to be a good seal and clearly, it wasn't on the G I'm looking at. Once that area is repaired, I'd glue that seal in again with polyurethane.
Don't know about the sill rust. I assume that is coming from the underside, but I have no idea. That's a lot harder to deal with long term. Maybe a some serious Zeibart treatment in that area might be of help? Fresh out of ideas there without seeing it.
I'd steer clear of any kind of "sealant" around the trim pieces. That could just seal water in and prevent it from ever drying out. An application of WD40 (or LPS) behind the seal is better as it displaces water, and is "breathable" in that it won't seal water in place. I spray all the hinges with WD40 any time before I drive the car - the hinges are also prone to rust, and WD is a good rust inhibitor. However, it wears off fairly quickly in exposed areas so frequent applications are needed.
If you're thinking about underside rust protection, LPS is the best rust protectant by a country mile. It's oil based but adheres to metal like paint, and it has the best anti-corrossive properties of any similar product out there. It will marginally slow down existing surface rust, but ideally, you need to properly treat any rust - sand down, apply protectant, paint, etc. I'm thinking about sanding down the entire underside and painting it with a few coats of anti-corrosion paint, then doing bi annual LPS treatments.
I'm currently in a bit of a row with MBUSA trying to get them to fix the flaws on my truck. I'm very disappointed with their response; "the car is 9 years old and at 50k miles, rust is to be expected."
I'd steer clear of any kind of "sealant" around the trim pieces.
Sealing may be a debatable concept, but here're my thoughts. I'd rather work to keep the water completely out than the dry it out repeatedly concept. Here in Ohio with all the salt on the road in the winter, any water that gets in also takes salt in with it. Once the salt gets in there and it finds any bare metal at all, you're hosed, as it will get under the finish and work its way back out. And the salt creates a build up so the leak path gets larger over time making for a very nice capillary path. So one might dry it out, but the salt remains and the capillary "hole" remains. Just humidity in the air combined with the salt and the breathing of the capillary "hole" will make it eat into metal if it gets all the way around the edge of the paint back under the seal. But this is just my opinion mind you.
But not just any sealant would work. It would have to be something like polyurethane or old school butyl. Something that really bonds, works across wide temperature ranges and stays soft when cold.
09-28-2019, 10:03 AM
since it's still under warranty I would have MB fix it.
