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Loose Fan Assembly - Water Pump?

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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 04:41 PM
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Loose Fan Assembly - Water Pump?

Hey guys, if there is a write up somewhere else for this, lmk and I’ll jump over there. Thx

2002 G500 80,000ish miles

have a “low coolant” warning light though engine stays cool enough and coolant even seems fine.

Started her up this morning and noticed a kind of squeaking/rattling sound. Popped the hood and noticed the radiator fan assembly seemed loose? Decided not to drive it and to diagnose further to decide wether or not to take it to an Indy shop or DIY.

Any info is appreciated 🙏🏼

gregoogle

I think this ICloud think should let you view the video:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/01cJ..._-_The_Village
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 09:43 AM
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Either your fan clutch bearings or your water pump bearings are toast. My best guess would be the fan clutch bearings are the major culprit because with that much movement in the water pump bearing you would have water all over the place. As for the low coolant, the off-axis loads from the bad clutch bearings may have caused slight damage to the seal on the pump causing it to slowly leak coolant.

To R&R the clutch you will need a special fan clutch wrench (just a large, flat open end wrench) and a locking wrench. These are sold as kits on eBay and Amazon - buy a good one because the clutch nut is on tight! The fan clutch itself for the G version of the M113 engine is ridiculously expensive. I have not had to R&R the water pump itself, so I can't comment on what's involved there.


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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Floobydust
Either your fan clutch bearings or your water pump bearings are toast. My best guess would be the fan clutch bearings are the major culprit because with that much movement in the water pump bearing you would have water all over the place. As for the low coolant, the off-axis loads from the bad clutch bearings may have caused slight damage to the seal on the pump causing it to slowly leak coolant.

To R&R the clutch you will need a special fan clutch wrench (just a large, flat open end wrench) and a locking wrench. These are sold as kits on eBay and Amazon - buy a good one because the clutch nut is on tight! The fan clutch itself for the G version of the M113 engine is ridiculously expensive. I have not had to R&R the water pump itself, so I can't comment on what's involved there.
Thanks FloobyDust. I’ll start looking around for one of those kits, I have seen them while doing some research. Was just hoping I wouldn’t need one.. I went ahead and bought a new water pump kit from AutohausAZ. I’ll start looking for the fan clutch assembly kit?

edit: what size fan clutch tool? 32mm? 36mm?

thanks again 👍🏼

Last edited by Gregoogle; Mar 8, 2020 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 05:39 PM
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I would check on the size for you, but I am in the midst of moving and all of my tools are packed. I do know that the wrench that came in the kit splayed out so I ended up grinding down a regular open end wrench to make it thin enough to use to get the nut off. Don't go with a no name aftermarket fan clutch - get either genuine Benz or Sachs clutches. The no name stuff fails in short order.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Floobydust
I would check on the size for you, but I am in the midst of moving and all of my tools are packed. I do know that the wrench that came in the kit splayed out so I ended up grinding down a regular open end wrench to make it thin enough to use to get the nut off. Don't go with a no name aftermarket fan clutch - get either genuine Benz or Sachs clutches. The no name stuff fails in short order.
No worries, I’ll try and get a measurement for it. How long of a job would you rate this? I’m considering just dropping it at the local shop but would love to save 3-500$ on labor if possible. Plus I love knowing how everything on my G works.

Thanks
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gregoogle
No worries, I’ll try and get a measurement for it. How long of a job would you rate this? I’m considering just dropping it at the local shop but would love to save 3-500$ on labor if possible. Plus I love knowing how everything on my G works.

Thanks
You're in luck - one of the first boxes that I unpacked today had the clutch wrench kit in it - the size is 36mm. R&R of the fan clutch is pretty straightforward, assuming you don't have to grind you own wrench. Under an hour and a half if the nut comes off. If you had not already sourced the water pump, I would suggest just doing and R&R on the fan clutch and then see of you have an issue with the water pump. But since you already have the pump, I would consider taking it to your Indy because I think the water pump replacement is a lot more involved. (my fan clutch lost its oil and so did not function - no damage to the bearings or the water pump). You're also going to spend $60-$80 dollars on a clutch kit which would offset some of the labor charges.
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 08:23 PM
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So I was right. Two independent shops quoted me $850 for the water pump replacement. $150/hr labor is crazy.

I received my new pump, have all the bolts out of the old pump, and noticed that on the top far right side of the new pump, there is an opening for a coolant line while the old pump does not. On the write up I’m going off of, the their pump also has no tube here..

Looked around some more online and all the replacements seem to have the tube like my new one does. Kind of confused...
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 10:41 PM
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I am just finishing the same project. My tensioner pulley locked up first. Noticed a bunch of play in the water pump shaft and fan clutch. I decided to do plugs, value covers and the oil filter housing seals while I had it appart. Mine is a 2003 with 112,000 miles
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Trizae

I am just finishing the same project. My tensioner pulley locked up first. Noticed a bunch of play in the water pump shaft and fan clutch. I decided to do plugs, value covers and the oil filter housing seals while I had it appart. Mine is a 2003 with 112,000 miles
Awesome! Always cool to see other members taking on similar projects. Surprisingly, my engine DOESNT leak oil (knock on wood) so I haven’t changed any other seals. I noticed your new pump has the same opening on the right side top. What did you tie that into or did you end up plugging it?
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 12:25 AM
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It's plumbed to the oil cooler. One line goes to the thermostat housing, the other to the water pump. Mine is almost back together. I used factory parts for everything except the fan clutch​​​​. The clutch will be here tomorrow so hopefully I'll have time to finish by the weekend.
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 08:42 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Trizae

It's plumbed to the oil cooler. One line goes to the thermostat housing, the other to the water pump. Mine is almost back together. I used factory parts for everything except the fan clutch​​​​. The clutch will be here tomorrow so hopefully I'll have time to finish by the weekend.
Thanks for the pictures 👍🏼

Now I’m wondering why my (and some other m113 engines) don’t have that oil cooler? I’m wondering if I should buy one and plumb it in?

I might be buying a G55 this weekend so I’d like to get this bad boy done and sold 😎
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Old Mar 13, 2020 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Gregoogle
Thanks for the pictures 👍🏼

Now I’m wondering why my (and some other m113 engines) don’t have that oil cooler? I’m wondering if I should buy one and plumb it in?

I might be buying a G55 this weekend so I’d like to get this bad boy done and sold 😎
So I passed on the G55. Turned out to be more rough than the photos made it out to be.. So I got home and put the G500 back together. Got the belt and fan reinstalled. Haven’t filled the coolant yet but just wanted to start her up to make sure everything looked fine before going one step further and filling.

BUT, the car seemed to have a hard time starting? Tried about 3 times and it finally started. Not a lack of power (battery/alternator). Just seemed rough. Sounds fine once started... could I have thrown the timing off somehow?? I’m not sure that would be possible. Should I fill coolant and take it for a spin tomorrow?

Any thoughts would help..
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Old Mar 15, 2020 | 10:29 PM
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Maybe just from setting? If all you replaced was the water pump and the fan then there is no reason it should run any different
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Old Mar 15, 2020 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Trizae
Maybe just from setting? If all you replaced was the water pump and the fan then there is no reason it should run any different
Thats what I was thinking... I did some research and the CAM position sensor sounds to be the culprit. I ordered one and will throw it in on Tuesday. The engine turns over fine and wants to run but seems like the engine isn’t getting fuel.

Super random that it would go out (if that’s what it was) right after swapping the water pump... but I’ll keep you guys updated.


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Old Mar 17, 2020 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Gregoogle
Thats what I was thinking... I did some research and the CAM position sensor sounds to be the culprit. I ordered one and will throw it in on Tuesday. The engine turns over fine and wants to run but seems like the engine isn’t getting fuel.

Super random that it would go out (if that’s what it was) right after swapping the water pump... but I’ll keep you guys updated.

Hopefully someone here is “working from home” and wants a mystery to solve.. I replaced the CPS but the car is still having a startup issue... here is a link that should take you to the video:

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lrc...grXf6H5HCfJPSw

You'll notice it turns over fine the first time but just no ignition.. I then turn the key off and back on and it then starts normally.

At one point a TCM error popped up but I haven’t seen it again.

Did I miss something when reinstalling the belt? Did I unhook something by accident? Once the car is one it runs fine... I drove it for 15-20 minutes the other day and had no symptoms whatsoever when running. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Gregoogle
Hopefully someone here is “working from home” and wants a mystery to solve.. I replaced the CPS but the car is still having a startup issue... here is a link that should take you to the video:

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lrc...grXf6H5HCfJPSw

You'll notice it turns over fine the first time but just no ignition.. I then turn the key off and back on and it then starts normally.

At one point a TCM error popped up but I haven’t seen it again.

Did I miss something when reinstalling the belt? Did I unhook something by accident? Once the car is one it runs fine... I drove it for 15-20 minutes the other day and had no symptoms whatsoever when running. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
I went ahead and replaced the cam position sensor. Started the car, same issue.

Today I fuel pressure tested it and fuel pressure is fine. The CEL popped back on for the same P0341 code for the camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1.

Any ideas? Trying to save a few hundred bucks at the dealership or shop. Maybe buy another CPS and throw it in?

thanks guys.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Gregoogle
I went ahead and replaced the cam position sensor. Started the car, same issue.

Today I fuel pressure tested it and fuel pressure is fine. The CEL popped back on for the same P0341 code for the camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1.

Any ideas? Trying to save a few hundred bucks at the dealership or shop. Maybe buy another CPS and throw it in?

thanks guys.
If anyone cares, I figured this one out. The connector on the front of the engine, to the left of the coolant sensor, was partially disconnected because a piece of plastic inside was stopping it from sitting all the way in. Got the plastic out, zip tied it together for good measure and it starts and runs just fine now.

hope this helps some other G owner out there.
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