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I went with these beauties for my fog light housings: Hikari 2020, H11 LED bulbs
The LEDs line up perfectly to where the filament of the old bulb was in the reflector, so the beam pattern is the same. Super bright, and a nice wide spread of white light to either side while my LP6's take care of the straight ahead lighting.
I think they have the built-in fans and resistors (no separate resistor wiring), so plug and play (at least for me) with no issues.
Those are the best! I put them on my last two Land Rover projects. At the moment I'm content w the Hella lights, but those LEDs are the way to go for sure!
Nice progress. I think front and rear dash cams are a must nowadays, with all the bad and uninsured drivers, road rage nuts, and general thieves. Not sure if the VanTop has it, but a cam with parking mode to record activity when parked is a good idea. And in that case, you'll want to consider a dedicated battery pack.
Love the BD lights, I went with the LP6 Pros also in amber mounted on the brush guard and they light it up, Ode to Joy style. For my fogs, I did a cheaper but seemingly effective swap out of the halogens with Hikari LED bulbs. Surprisingly (to me at least), no issues with installation and they are very bright.
Agreed, a backup battery is very useful. All of these dashcam+rear view lcd screen setups that I have found all run on 5V, so they theoretically can use a normal USB battery bank. I'll do some investigation when it arrives as I may have to make a custom mini-usb cable. The VanTop has parking mode and an accelerometer, but my experience with the AutoVox X1 I've had in my other car for a few years now, is that it doesn't do that much. Also, with the Autovox X1, I once left my car at my JFK parking guy for 6 weeks once while traveling for business and it didn't need a backup battery. (It was on switched power so didn't drain the OE battery either)
I love the LP6 Pros! I saw a build when researching headlight where someone used them in the OE headlight position on the G. It looked awesome, but definitely not DOT approved or practical at all.
Found a picture of it!
That's basically what I want do with the S2 Pro in Amber/Driving/Combo $350 for the foglight position. It is really tempting to go with the Squadron Pro's in Amber/Driving/Combo $440 since they have twice the light output and aren't that much more $, but they don't fit as nicely in the foglight position being square vs rectangular.
I did look into LED H3 bulbs for the foglights but I think I'll leave the OE Halogens in there for now and put that $ towards the Baja Design lights down the road.
Question for you Limey, what is your Mudflap solution? I saw this picture you posted and really like how they extend up into the fender flare to avoid throwing stuff..
Those are the best! I put them on my last two Land Rover projects. At the moment I'm content w the Hella lights, but those LEDs are the way to go for sure!
I looked into these for a little bit and it seems like they would fit fine, but with my rectangular fog lights being H3, most of the LED bulbs I was finding had the LEDs placed on the top and bottom of the bulb (oriented how the OE H3 is oriented), and with the light cutoff shield in the housing, I'm not sure it would work correctly. I was looking into LEDs that had LEDs either at the 45* angles or side to side but couldn't find many that were well reviewed. Thus the just sticking to the OE 55W halogen bulbs for now and upgrading to the BD S2Pro's later in the year.
I also had a few minutes last night while I was playing with my 3D printer and calibrating the new print settings to make another part.
I was going back and forth on ordering the OE brush guard removal tool and just couldn't justify ~$50 for a wrench I'll use maybe a handful of times. So I just designed my own socket for a 1/4" ratchet.
Printed using PET-G so it's much stronger than PLA and should last forever. I put in some M5x16mm hex bolts in the design so the plastic isn't taking the turning load. Should last for a while, or at least the 2-3 times I use it.
Fits like a glove.
If anyone wants the STL file, I can send it. You'll need a 3D printer, super glue, and 6x M5x16 Hex Bolts
Yes, the LP6 Pros are pretty sweet, not sure I'd use them as regular headlights though...
Here's my setup:
After some off-roading and plentiful stone chips occurring on my rear fender flares (not to mention the whole side being mud-splattered frequently), I looked long and hard around for a mud flap solution, especially one that would extend out far enough to cover my wider tires and track due to big wheel spacers. I ended up finding some universal fit mounting brackets in powder coated thin steel at SharpTruck.com: Sharp Truck Universal Mud Flap Mounting Brackets
Ha... looks like they've added my G Wagon as a customer picture there.
Then I just paired them with standard 12in wide rubber mud flaps from eBay. You do have to screw them into your inner wheel arches, but they are fully adjustable as far as positioning up-down, inboard/outboard, and the thin steel is very flexible.
I ended up mounting the rear bracket higher than the front, so the rear rubber mud flaps are longer. However all 4 flaps are the same distance off the ground. What the rubber flap doesn't catch, the steel bracket catches, so they're working out well so far.
Last edited by Limey Hooligan; 06-04-2020 at 03:44 PM.
Here's a close-up of the LP6s by the way. I was pleasantly surprised at how the diagonal cooling fins on the lights match nicely with the diagonal lines of the grill and behind the Mercedes logo:
I don't normally share my license plate number in online pics, but it's changing shortly anyway...
Yes, the LP6 Pros are pretty sweet, not sure I'd use them as regular headlights though...
Here's my setup:
After some off-roading and plentiful stone chips occurring on my rear fender flares (not to mention the whole side being mud-splattered frequently), I looked long and hard around for a mud flap solution, especially one that would extend out far enough to cover my wider tires and track due to big wheel spacers. I ended up finding some universal fit mounting brackets in powder coated thin steel at SharpTruck.com: Sharp Truck Universal Mud Flap Mounting Brackets
Ha... looks like they've added my G Wagon as a customer picture there.
Then I just paired them with standard 12in wide rubber mud flaps from eBay. You do have to screw them into your inner wheel arches, but they are fully adjustable as far as positioning up-down, inboard/outboard, and the thin steel is very flexible.
I ended up mounting the rear bracket higher than the front, so the rear rubber mud flaps are longer. However all 4 flaps are the same distance off the ground. What the rubber flap doesn't catch, the steel bracket catches, so they're working out well so far.
Thanks for the info on the mudflaps Limey! It looked like a custom/universal setup but works really well with the aesthetic of the truck as well as being very functional. I think I will end up just going with the OE Mercedes flaps but will have to justify that purchase as they're quite costly. Also I don't plan to ever go beyond an all terrain tire (KO2's) in an OE-ish size (285/60R18) this winter with 31mm wheel spacers to fill out the wheel arches. No plans for a lift for now but you never know what the future holds! I will, however, actually put some miles on the truck first before spending more $ on a mudflap solution, suspension, or wheels/tires.
Originally Posted by Limey Hooligan
Here's a close-up of the LP6s by the way. I was pleasantly surprised at how the diagonal cooling fins on the lights match nicely with the diagonal lines of the grill and behind the Mercedes logo:
I don't normally share my license plate number in online pics, but it's changing shortly anyway...
Those LP6's are look awesome. It looks like they belong there OE. Were they bolted to the OE threaded holes on the middle bar? I was working with the brush guard today and thinking how I could use the threaded holes to mount a light bar or pod lights in the future.
I got some daylight time today to work on reassembling the truck. First up was to put the e-brake boot back in after repair. Screwed everything back together and I think it looks pretty good overall. Hope that's the last time I have to take apart the center console, but I know better. I'm trying to work out a better magnetic mounting solution for a cell phone as I'm not happy with the normal magnetic vent mount position. I'm working through a few options centered on the AC vents to cover the lockers and hazard button for daily use. Looks like it will have to be something custom so thinking through that design but probably won't get to any prototyping until after everything else is finished.
I also started assembling the Brush Guard brackets today to put everything back together after getting the SS hardware. Let me just say, what a PAIN IN THE A. If anyone is thinking about removing the brush guard on a G55 or G500, DON'T remove the brackets. There is literally an infinite amount of adjustability in the brackets, and it takes tons of small tweaks to get everything to fit back together. It also doesn't help that on my truck, the holes in the bumper were drilled roughly 0.5" off center to the left. The hinge pins are not square to the brackets, and the brush guard upright brackets (black ones) are not square either. Seriously what a pain. I got this far today and decided to stop as the OE Brush Guard quick release mechanism is completely retarded.
Here's how the OE brush guard quick release works. The receivers on the front of the brush guards are adjustable in and out (screw thread), due to the variability of all the rest of the brackets. Because of this, this receiver will never be tightly screwed into the brush guard unless you glue it in place. The little locator pin on the mating surface is there so it hits a slot on the OE bumper bracket to prevent it from spinning more when you are twisting the quick release lock pin (right side piece). There is absolutely no method to tension or tighten the attachment, so the OE solution is to add C shaped shim washers behind the lock pin until it is tight enough. I have no idea who came up with this solution, but it is terrible and adds even more variability into the entire system. In my case, it was impossible to mount everything back up since everything is not square and nothing lines up like it's supposed to.
I found while thinking through a solution that there is an internal thread on the pin receiver (right picture), which was unexpected and weird, but definitely welcome. I found that the thread is M14, so I measured the proper length for a hex bolt and lock washer to bolt the brush guard back in place. I ordered all the hardware today and it should get here Saturday. I also ordered a shallow 22mm hex 3/8" drive socket since it's tight behind the brush guard.
I'll have to plastidip the brush guard hinged down and in place on the truck as it will be impossible to reattach if I ever do remove it from the hinge pins. The second option is to remove all the chrome bars and paint them separately, then put the brush guard back together on the truck. Will tackle this tomorrow and see which is the better option. I also hope to get a few hours on Saturday to get the headliner removed, recovered, sound deadening put all over the roof, and everything put back in. (wishful thinking)
There's still no official word if NJ MVC will finally open for business on Monday June 8, but looks like they're having a press conference tomorrow about it. The 3 month backlog on registrations will be a huge problem either way. So I hope there is FINALLY a way I can register the truck and actually start driving it. It will be 12 weeks since I picked it up and I've driven it a total of 52 miles (and a 1/4 tank somehow) since doing endless loops around the 3 neighborhood streets. (One neighborhood loop 1.5 miles so...) It's Funny and depressing at the same time.
My lights weren’t bolted through the existing holes since they’re too close together. The lights would fit OK, but they’d be too close together and not look as good in my eyes. So I had them mounted equidistant from the Mercedes logo.
Of course as you know, the brush guard is not completely mounted symmetrically to the front of the truck, so the lights aren’t either in relation to the brush guard, but I think it’s pretty close though.
My lights weren’t bolted through the existing holes since they’re too close together. The lights would fit OK, but they’d be too close together and not look as good in my eyes. So I had them mounted equidistant from the Mercedes logo.
Of course as you know, the brush guard is not completely mounted symmetrically to the front of the truck, so the lights aren’t either in relation to the brush guard, but I think it’s pretty close though.
Thanks for the info. Hey Limey, how far off-center is your brush guard? Wondering how mine compares since it's almost laughable how far off mine is. I compared where the mounting brackets are compared to the foglight surround pieces.
Tried to plastidip the brush guard pieces off the truck, but knew I would run into too many issues when re-assembling it on the truck, so just put it all back together and started the chrome to matte black conversion.
Used a tarp to cover the front of the truck. and taped it close to the body. I'm not too concerned about getting small plastidip over-spray on other parts of the vehicle since I'll be doing a full clay and paint correction in the near future anyway. Also, plastidip fine partical overspray really just rinses away with water. Sprayed the whole inside first.
After drying for a few hours, I put the bull bar in the up position using the new M14x2.0 x 60mm hex bolts and lock washers that arrived today. Nothing is tightened down until the plastidip has a full night to dry. Using these hex bolts was SO much easier than the OE quick release.
I was going to wait till the morning to remove the plastic, but couldn't wait since I'm impatient. The finished product isn't perfect, but it looks miles better than the chrome to me. The finish is pretty good overall considering. The plan for these pieces is to leave it in plastidip for now, but when things really start opening up again later in the summer, to have all the parts stripped, cleaned, and powder coated to the same matte black with a medium texture. At the same time, I will also completely repaint the front bumper, or maybe powder coat it also to a gloss black.
The reason is there are a lot of paint bubbling rust spots around the fog lights and around the lower cooler slots. I'll have to strip off all the paint, grind off all the rust, fix any areas that need patching, and correct the brush guard mounting holes. Fixing the holes will be a major pain since I'll have to slot the current holes roughly 1/2" and possibly weld in some material, but since I'll already have to completely redo the bumper, I might as well do it right the first time. Also it already drives me crazy to know that the brush guard is mounted so far off center.
I'll leave it with some pictures of the results.
The headlight grills work well with the JW Speakers. I was concerned they would look out of place but am relieved that is not the case. Apologies for the filthy truck everywhere else. Pollen is currently covering everything in an hour and tree seedlings are everywhere, so I stopped trying to keep it clean.
Headliner removal/replacement will continue next week.
NJ MVC will FINALLY partially reopen starting June 15th. Still no idea what that really means. MVC says they will start allowing new used car private party registrations online with a mail in paperwork check, but I'm not hopeful that system will be up and running well for months. Hope I can sneak in right at the beginning so I can actually drive the truck I've been paying for and paying insurance on.
curious if you've made any progress on the glove box handle. I was just quoted $1K for a new glovebox assembly. That was parts only ... highway robbery. I think I can source it for $700-$800 from an online vendor but that's still criminal. There are of course none to be found used either. Well thought out strategy to bend g class owners over by not offering the handle and spring separately. Obviously this is not an uncommon occurrence.
curious if you've made any progress on the glove box handle. I was just quoted $1K for a new glovebox assembly. That was parts only ... highway robbery. I think I can source it for $700-$800 from an online vendor but that's still criminal. There are of course none to be found used either. Well thought out strategy to bend g class owners over by not offering the handle and spring separately. Obviously this is not an uncommon occurrence.
I haven't gotten a chance to work on this since I got pulled away from home/the truck for a few weeks. Will be back in NJ with the truck in ~2 weeks. I'll, for sure, be making something to fix the glove box. Just need to see what makes the most sense, to design a 3D printed hinge to glue/epoxy in, or just create an entirely new handle piece and have it machined out of aluminum.
I also took some time to look around to see if there were any economical solutions to fix it and found none.
Can you post a picture of how yours is broken? Both the back side of the handle and the glove box side, so I can make sure to not design something that won't work for both cases.
Four by Four Club has glove box assemblies for $600, still pretty expensive though: Four by Four Club - Glove Box Assembly They have them in black or grey.
They do sell the handle by itself as well, but only for RHD vehicles so it's reversed. They're the only ones I can find online who sell these parts though.
Four by Four Club has glove box assemblies for $600, still pretty expensive though: Four by Four Club - Glove Box Assembly They have them in black or grey.
They do sell the handle by itself as well, but only for RHD vehicles so it's reversed. They're the only ones I can find online who sell these parts though.
i think these are for pre 2009 cars. Those are a bit cheaper (not by much) and i did find them for under $600 from various online MB part suppliers. fourbyfourclub doesn't provide part numbers so hard to tell for sure without emailing them. I'll probably reach out if all else fails and i'm unable to source a handle or a used glovebox. I'm not quite ready to throw in the towel though. Regardless, from what i've dug up, the post 2009 part is a little more pricey.
I haven't gotten a chance to work on this since I got pulled away from home/the truck for a few weeks. Will be back in NJ with the truck in ~2 weeks. I'll, for sure, be making something to fix the glove box. Just need to see what makes the most sense, to design a 3D printed hinge to glue/epoxy in, or just create an entirely new handle piece and have it machined out of aluminum.
I also took some time to look around to see if there were any economical solutions to fix it and found none.
Can you post a picture of how yours is broken? Both the back side of the handle and the glove box side, so I can make sure to not design something that won't work for both cases.
get ready to witness a hackjob repair by the previous owner. I am also missing the spring, which is probably needed to make it retract once released.
i think these are for pre 2009 cars. Those are a bit cheaper (not by much) and i did find them for under $600 from various online MB part suppliers. fourbyfourclub doesn't provide part numbers so hard to tell for sure without emailing them. I'll probably reach out if all else fails and i'm unable to source a handle or a used glovebox. I'm not quite ready to throw in the towel though. Regardless, from what i've dug up, the post 2009 part is a little more pricey.
I've bought from fourbyfourclub before and subsequently have learned that I can find the same parts cheaper from an online MB part supplier for my '05 G500. And, like you indicated, the challenge is confirming the part #. But, by looking at the online part schematic for the instrument panel and the glove box, I'd be confident using these part #s:
* Gray Glove Box: 463-680-49-91-7095
* Black Glove Box: 463-680-49-91-9045
get ready to witness a hackjob repair by the previous owner. I am also missing the spring, which is probably needed to make it retract once released.
Yikes, that's a rough repair attempt. On your glovebox, is that little cam pin thing still there that you pull/spin to open the glove box? The spring is on that shaft so your repair is more or less the same as mine, just creating a new hinge. can you take a picture of your glovebox side as well?
Originally Posted by cdcsf
I've bought from fourbyfourclub before and subsequently have learned that I can find the same parts cheaper from an online MB part supplier for my '05 G500. And, like you indicated, the challenge is confirming the part #. But, by looking at the online part schematic for the instrument panel and the glove box, I'd be confident using these part #s:
* Gray Glove Box: 463-680-49-91-7095
* Black Glove Box: 463-680-49-91-9045
This looks correct. Prices come up around the $4-500 mark, which I'm still not willing to spend. Worse comes to worst, the glove box still works by pulling the little sprung cam thing, but just won't lock.
I've bought from fourbyfourclub before and subsequently have learned that I can find the same parts cheaper from an online MB part supplier for my '05 G500. And, like you indicated, the challenge is confirming the part #. But, by looking at the online part schematic for the instrument panel and the glove box, I'd be confident using these part #s:
* Gray Glove Box: 463-680-49-91-7095
* Black Glove Box: 463-680-49-91-9045
there are several more versions of this glovebox per the MB EPC. For my car, which has the "leather" dash (looks and feels like vinyl to me), it is my understanding that it requires a slightly pricier part #. Unfortunately, I was driving while chatting with the parts guy from MB of Naperville, IL who operates mboemparts.com and could not take down the actual part number he had looked up by my VIN. I pulled up the schematic in EPC when i got home and that's when i noticed the several iterations of this glovebox. I am guessing the leather/surface grain is different on the "leather" dash cars. I have a 2011 G55 and i'm not sure if all AMG cars came with the same dash or not, and whether the non-AMG cars are the same. I pulled several of the part numbers up online and noticed some were cheaper than others so there you have it. I'm not really entertaining a new glovebox yet but if i do end up having to go new, i'll be sure to get the correct part and report back.
Yikes, that's a rough repair attempt. On your glovebox, is that little cam pin thing still there that you pull/spin to open the glove box? The spring is on that shaft so your repair is more or less the same as mine, just creating a new hinge. can you take a picture of your glovebox side as well?
Worse comes to worst, the glove box still works by pulling the little sprung cam thing, but just won't lock.
Yes, the glovebox still works if you rotate that pin. Here's the glovebox side (don't mind the dirt - another gift from the previous owner that i haven't gotten to yet but hopefully this weekend i'll get her all cleaned up)
Yes, the glovebox still works if you rotate that pin. Here's the glovebox side (don't mind the dirt - another gift from the previous owner that i haven't gotten to yet but hopefully this weekend i'll get her all cleaned up)
Is the left mounting hole broken? It looks like it is cracked but not broken yet. The repair will be almost exactly the same as mine it seems. I'll have to test a few different designs, hardware sizes, and glues to use when I get home, but it WILL BE FIXED! I'll keep you updated on the process Lawrence1.
Is the left mounting hole broken? It looks like it is cracked but not broken yet. The repair will be almost exactly the same as mine it seems. I'll have to test a few different designs, hardware sizes, and glues to use when I get home, but it WILL BE FIXED! I'll keep you updated on the process Lawrence1.
The left mounting hole isn't broken but it feels a bit flmsy so it may need reinforcing. I'll have to look closely to see if it's cracked. They probably tried to force the handle onto it or something, who knows. It looks like the left side is not as beefy as the right side so i',m glad it didn't snap off. What pisses me off even more is that i didn't think to really look up what this part costs to replace as i would've negotiated the price on this car lower. I figured the handle can be replaced with a new one and it won't be a big deal. I'm not sure what they used to try and fix this before either, because it seems like a really poor choice of compound - it feels like a hard rubber and has poor adhesion. all in all I'm sure it'll take a miracle to repair this on my car (yours seems like it was a cleaner attempt), but i'm willing to try whatever you come up with. Thanks a lot for your help!
So I've been away from home and the G for the past few weeks, so all truck projects came to an abrupt halt. Had to take a last second emergency roadtrip and wasn't able to take the G55 since the truck still can't be registered. But that hasn't stopped me from reading, researching, and buying a few goodies!
Picked up these for the long trip home to try to keep organized and they will of course make their way to the back of the truck!
Frontrunner Wolfpacks. Picked up 2 from Jackwagon. Thanks Jack!
They're pretty nice overall, and feel solid. Hoping they last as they've been reviewed really well all over the interwebs. Somewhat expensive for storage bins but nicer than anything else I could find for the price (although I do love pelican cases!)
Making the trip back up next week, then of course will be quarantining. Will do my best to register the truck as soon as I can since the NJ MVC is supposed to reopen for in-person necessary visits on Monday FINALLY.
Man! I swear I keep hoping the next update I get is you with a registration sticker!
Just talked to Jack and grabbed the Gobi rack. I may grab a couple of the shorter tool boxes to haul misc enclosed stuff on the roof. Anywhere I go for excursions will likely have our great dane in the back so my inside storage is nearly non existent.
Got a Gazelle t4 Hub tent, and am building out a survival and trauma kit. Hoping to get out into the wilderness in the next 4-5wks, pending roofrack delivery and work.
Fingers crossed you have your truck on the road before the holiday weekend.
Man! I swear I keep hoping the next update I get is you with a registration sticker!
Just talked to Jack and grabbed the Gobi rack. I may grab a couple of the shorter tool boxes to haul misc enclosed stuff on the roof. Anywhere I go for excursions will likely have our great dane in the back so my inside storage is nearly non existent.
Got a Gazelle t4 Hub tent, and am building out a survival and trauma kit. Hoping to get out into the wilderness in the next 4-5wks, pending roofrack delivery and work.
Fingers crossed you have your truck on the road before the holiday weekend.
Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly next week!
I was researching racks these past few weeks also and found the used Gobi rack posted on here in the DC/VA area. SUPER tempted to go get it as it's a good discount off new, but I have little to no use for a rack yet. Also a member over on clubwagen posted a used rear storage compartment for a good amount off new but I got a hard NO from the wife. haha. You win some you lose some.
Does it even make sense for you to keep your rear seats in for normal driving? Or even just keeping the single 40% seat in case you need to haul a 3rd person and removing the 60% seat to allow for more storage space. That would give you a good amount of space for storage bins and the danes can still stay behind the pet net, to keep more important things out of the wet roof storage.
I've been thinking alot about my truck build over the past few weeks away and have concluded that it will most likely end up being a daily drive/family hauler/mostly on road truck for the next few years. Some mild off roading to see some sites and bad weather mobile for trips up to Vermont/NH/ME. When the kid gets older and wants to go explore more of the outdoors, then I'll be able to justify a rack, tent, awning, kitchen setup etc. The plan is still to go with Fox 2.0's with some added lights in front, OE-ish all terrain tires, then I'll probably build my own drawer system for the rear (or get the Frontrunner one).
Yea if you're not really going to use it much a rack's not worth it.
My wife's hard no will be on removing the seats for any duration. So they stay. I'll try to get some nice secure weatherproof storage on the top that can stay up there, but has a lower profile.
With all my other trucks, especially once we moved from NYC we used the racks almost without hesitation.
My truck is my daily (whatever that means for now) I'm barely driving the E63 but have a lot of overlanding / camping plans once this rack gets here.
Putting out good vibes for you on your DMV excursion!
Does it even make sense for you to keep your rear seats in for normal driving? Or even just keeping the single 40% seat in case you need to haul a 3rd person and removing the 60% seat to allow for more storage space. That would give you a good amount of space for storage bins and the danes can still stay behind the pet net, to keep more important things out of the wet roof storage.
You read my mind... I was thinking the same thing on removing the double seat for less weight and extra storage, and leaving a single 'jump seat' in case I get an extra passenger. I may do it, and your seat removal instructions will come in handy for sure.
06-04-2020, 12:42 PM
You win some you lose some.
