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Not bad. My ABS sensor should be here today and Im currently trying to sort out what grease to fill the swivel ball with. Most of the products Ive seen are petroleum based and with a rubber boot in there I can't see it lasting too long.
Not bad. My ABS sensor should be here today and Im currently trying to sort out what grease to fill the swivel ball with. Most of the products Ive seen are petroleum based and with a rubber boot in there I can't see it lasting too long.
I had a thread that discussed the different grease types. The CV joint grease is different from the ball joint.
I would up buying this: Lucas Oil 10005 Red 'N' Tacky Grease - 14 Oz.
Ugh. Just realizing that these two products are the same color which is not supposed to be the case so that you can tell if your CV boots have failed by using another grease color. Hmm..
I personally wouldn't use it as it's a petroleum based grease. I, being painted into a corner will use Redline CV 2 synthetic grease. Ultimately I wanted to use a synthetic grease but was cost prohibitive. My reasoning for the redline is we used it in rebuilding CV joints on Porsche and VW's and it didn't cause any rot to the rubber boots.
Not to jinx myself but just had a fantastic noise free test drive. I have only at this point done the clunking side. Other side next week, should only take a fraction of the time ( with all this wonderful hands on experience )and going to order a replacement ABS sensor and replace it at the same time. It would have been an insane job had the one I did pack it in. Not going to take a chance on the other side.
Not to jinx myself but just had a fantastic noise free test drive. I have only at this point done the clunking side. Other side next week, should only take a fraction of the time ( with all this wonderful hands on experience )and going to order a replacement ABS sensor and replace it at the same time. It would have been an insane job had the one I did pack it in. Not going to take a chance on the other side.
Yes! That is great news! I am so happy to hear that. Even if mine fails, I'll be happy you at least had success haha. Total time?
Thanks! I plan on doing the same. The bad side, drive a week or two, then the other side. If you run into any more tips, send them along! You’ve been a huge help already.
If i could suggest anything - CLEAN the Heck out of everything before taking apart. Be cautious of the ABS sensor. Be prepared to set the initial bearing torque to 200nm (crazy torque in my opinion..) Lots of mess!! Did you ever check your G for the "clunk" ???
The Mobil 1 synthetic was what I was initially after but no supply in my area. I think the Redline CV 2 will work quite nicely. I would have taken photos but the job is super messy and the link I posted in this thread gives some fantastic photos of the process. Check it out.
FYI the correct spec grease for the swivel housings is MB 267.1 spec. There are only three (3) greases that meet this standard, and Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2 is likely the easiest and most cost effective to source. Some people use Redline grease as a replacement but i like to stick with the factory spec stuff. It's available online (even on Amazon) and is actually reasonably priced. You'll need at least 3-4 tubes if starting from empty. If your swivel housings haven't been checked in a while, you'll probably find that they'll take almost 1 tube per side.
The other options are Renolit MP150 (NLA in the US as far as i can tell) or the MB branded stuff at the dealer (same as the Renolit, allegedly, and more expensive).
I've started my teardown. I plan to put a few hours in today for disassembly. I don't expect reassembly until next week when I get back home again from mini vacation.
I'm done the initial teardown to get everything removed from the truck.
I tried keeping the caliper attached, but needed socket access to the top housing bolts. I could get a wrench on to them, but I didn't have enough leverage to get them off. I had a socket with a very long breaker bar for it, so I had to remove the top plate that held the brake lines. The biggest issue was that I didn't have a cap for the brake caliper and it dripped for 20 minutes as I tried a bunch of different ways to cap it. Ultimately, I had to put the caliper back on, resting on the drag link arm.
No chance any of the bolts come off without a long breaker bar, including the caliper bolts.
I haven't seen anything obvious that could have led to my issue. The *only* thing I notices was the locking washer tab was only pulled forward for the outer nut, but no tines were pushed back to the inner nut. The inner nut felt very tight, I don't have my dial gauge yet (in mail). I'd say it was 1/16 backed off from full tightness.
I'll be continuing to do this in stages as I wait for somethings to arrive. My plan this afternoon is to clean everything thoroughly.
No tabs lock the inner nut just the outer. Good chance your inner bearing race will look like mine - chewed. I double locked two wrenches together to get those top bolts.
No tabs lock the inner nut just the outer. Good chance your inner bearing race will look like mine - chewed. I double locked two wrenches together to get those top bolts.
You are a stronger man than I! I had two wrenches, even tried for the daisy chained and no go. I'll grab some 2" pipe from home depot in the future for this.
The bearing looked good. It had some play in the race, but I think that may be normal. I have to compare it to the new one. I'm definitely getting a little nervous that this may not be the issue.
Be confident - IT WILL BE. I had the exact noise. The inner bearing actually looked good but that bearing race was a different story. I now enjoy driving it on the Hwy and not hearing that noise when changing lanes or going around a corner. The noise would go away but I would have to change lanes at over 120 KPH.. If you want to stop the brake fluid drip and are using latex gloves as I did put the brake line in the pinky and use an elastic band or electrical tape to seal it, as I'm sure you are aware you don't want that circuit to go dry.
I have my 2007 G55 axel is broken down. Pulling the hub bearing with a cheapo Amazon brand was a little tough, but as usual, leverage with a breaker bar saved the day.
As a reminder, I was feeling a slight metal grinding in the steering wheel and a faint noise while driving 25mph and putting slight left pressure on the steering wheel.
So far, everything looks good in terms of the bearings, but I noticed this while cleaning my hub. It is pitted. The inner locking nut is pitted as well. On teardown, the locking washer tab was only pulled forward on to the outer locking nut, no tabs were pushed back to the inner locking nut.
Do you think this could be a cause of my issue? Is my hub reusable? I assume I can simply swap the inner/outer nuts so I have a clean nut face toward the hub?
I would say you could use it. And no not the cause of the noise. Just use a bit of grease on nut and hub when you install. Have you pulled the bearing race's yet?
I pulled the hub bearing today, it looked ok. These two surfaces were the only thing I've noticed so far. The CV is very tight. I still am going to break it down for a full inspection and repacking.
I was trying to see how this could be the cause of the noise, but everything (hub, locking nuts, axel, etc) in here would be moving as one unit, so there would not be a constant noise from this, correct?
08-14-2020, 11:38 AM
