You too can perform your own Service.
01-27-2009, 11:50 AM
#27
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08 GL320
You too can perform your own service
Kamal,
Do you have a diesel or a GL450? If you have the diesel you need to either use a MB229.51 spec oil for the 10K mile drain interval, or MB229.31 (AKA API CJ-4) spec oil for a 5K mile drain interval...
The difference between the 229.51 and 229.31/CJ-4 is that .51 is referred to as a long life oil and is 99% of the time synthetic. 229.31 is regular life oil and most of the time is not synthetic.
For those that are looking for the 229.51... It is getting easier to find, little by little, but it is not something that the typical parts store carries just yet (I have bought mine online or from the dealer) Google Elf Solaris LSX or TOTAL Quartz INEO MC3 (same oil actually) and there are lots of dealers on the net that sell the stuff.
In a pinch, ANY Mercedes diesel can use the 229.31/CJ-4 stuff if the engine is low on oil... It actually says so on the top of the passenger side air filter housing if you pop the engine cover... This oil can be found almost anywhere, and can be found as Shell ROTELLA-T with Triple Protection, Chevron Delo 400 LE and Mobil Delvac 1300 Super... Just look for CJ-4 and MB229.31 on the back label. It is low ash formula that will not clog your particulate filter. The trick is that it is only good for 5K miles... So if you have more than 5K miles left before your next service when you add the oil, you just set it at 5K more miles maximum by adding the oil.
Kamal,
If you have a GL450... Well then nevermind... That meets MB229.5 which is longlife synthetic and exactly what the GL450 engine calls for...
Do you have a diesel or a GL450? If you have the diesel you need to either use a MB229.51 spec oil for the 10K mile drain interval, or MB229.31 (AKA API CJ-4) spec oil for a 5K mile drain interval...
The difference between the 229.51 and 229.31/CJ-4 is that .51 is referred to as a long life oil and is 99% of the time synthetic. 229.31 is regular life oil and most of the time is not synthetic.
For those that are looking for the 229.51... It is getting easier to find, little by little, but it is not something that the typical parts store carries just yet (I have bought mine online or from the dealer) Google Elf Solaris LSX or TOTAL Quartz INEO MC3 (same oil actually) and there are lots of dealers on the net that sell the stuff.
In a pinch, ANY Mercedes diesel can use the 229.31/CJ-4 stuff if the engine is low on oil... It actually says so on the top of the passenger side air filter housing if you pop the engine cover... This oil can be found almost anywhere, and can be found as Shell ROTELLA-T with Triple Protection, Chevron Delo 400 LE and Mobil Delvac 1300 Super... Just look for CJ-4 and MB229.31 on the back label. It is low ash formula that will not clog your particulate filter. The trick is that it is only good for 5K miles... So if you have more than 5K miles left before your next service when you add the oil, you just set it at 5K more miles maximum by adding the oil.
Kamal,
If you have a GL450... Well then nevermind... That meets MB229.5 which is longlife synthetic and exactly what the GL450 engine calls for...
http://www.schaefferoil.com/supreme_9000.html
01-27-2009, 12:10 PM
#28
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2006 320 CDI
I use Rotella-T 5w-40 in my Jetta TDI's, so it appears I can use it in my new (used) 2006 CDI? I have also changed my own fuel filters on the TDI. Where is the fuel filter located in the CDI?
01-27-2009, 01:52 PM
#29
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C32 AMG
There are times when manufacturer specs are BS and they can be ignored, but I have yet to see anything that says it's OK to use non-spec motor oil in a newer Benz diesel.
01-27-2009, 07:01 PM
#30
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2007 GL320 CDI, 2001 TJ Rockcrawler, 2005 Scoobie STI
I am not familiar with this engine... I do know it is an Inline-6 OM648 Engine, Versus the V6 OM642 which is found in the GL Class... You might check in the E-Class (W211) forum or in the Diesel Specific forum for support on that engine.
If I were to venture a guess based on my past experience with Mercedes Inline Diesels, I would say that it is under the Engine Cover somewhere on the driver's side.
01-28-2009, 03:39 PM
#31
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C32 AMG
You really use any kind of Oil you want in 2006 CDI engines... No particulate filter! You can use anything 229.3 and higher... Although you would need to stick with the 229.5 or 229.51 oils to go the extended drain interval.
I am not familiar with this engine... I do know it is an Inline-6 OM648 Engine, Versus the V6 OM642 which is found in the GL Class... You might check in the E-Class (W211) forum or in the Diesel Specific forum for support on that engine.
If I were to venture a guess based on my past experience with Mercedes Inline Diesels, I would say that it is under the Engine Cover somewhere on the driver's side.
I am not familiar with this engine... I do know it is an Inline-6 OM648 Engine, Versus the V6 OM642 which is found in the GL Class... You might check in the E-Class (W211) forum or in the Diesel Specific forum for support on that engine.
If I were to venture a guess based on my past experience with Mercedes Inline Diesels, I would say that it is under the Engine Cover somewhere on the driver's side.
I missed the "2006" reference and assumed it was a GL. Nevermind!
02-02-2009, 02:53 PM
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Mercedes C230
I'm with dieselsrule on this one. I use books and other Internet resources (like forums) to find all the info I need to get the job done. Plus, it saves a heck of a lot of money over the dealership.
09-23-2010, 09:39 AM
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2008 GL320 CDI, 2006 Jetta TDI, 1967 Corvette, 2001 AG5B Tiger
Danno4x4,
"I would be happy to share with you a 'Danno4x4' written version of the procedures." How can I get a copy of those procedures?
Thanks!
"I would be happy to share with you a 'Danno4x4' written version of the procedures." How can I get a copy of those procedures?
Thanks!
09-24-2010, 08:56 PM
#34
Service b on the gl diesel does not include intake or fuel filter but your next service will be an f and will require all of the above items plus tranny flush. The tranny flush is generally not a diy unless you really now what you are doing then there are very good dyi instructions on the site on how to go about it.
The mobil 1 ESP 5w40 oil can be bought online from avlube.com at a decent price.
Do not suck oil from the dipstick tube as you will leave the worst of the old oil in the oil pan. Oil extractors are for boats.
The mobil 1 ESP 5w40 oil can be bought online from avlube.com at a decent price.
Do not suck oil from the dipstick tube as you will leave the worst of the old oil in the oil pan. Oil extractors are for boats.
Last edited by alx; 09-24-2010 at 09:00 PM.
11-26-2010, 02:27 AM
#35
Member
I just got rid of my GL450 and bought a GL350. It's a ways away for the A service but I'm already lurking around this forum gathering info. Lot's of good stuff on these forums! I am a DIYer. I grew up around cars and I enjoy tinkering around my cars. My dad was/is a car buff.
I refuse to pay any dealer my hard earned money for a ripoff job, because that's what it is. Service A is just a glorified oil change+adblue. Service B adds the fuel filter and cabin air filter change at a significantly more fee. I really don't mind paying top $ for quality work/products but unfortunately, MB maintenance hardly qualifies. I took my GL450 in on numerous occassions for warranty work. Everytime I met with my service guy, he would push me to get the A service done and everytime I would tell him that I did it on my own. And everytime, he would use scare tactics by telling me performing the maintenance on my own could void my warranty. The last time he told me this, I told him to go fly a kite and walked off. Like someone already said, no service tech will work on my car with more care than myself. I suppose these MB dealers have to find new ways to pay for their expensive latte makers
. No thanks, I'll wash my own car and save a few $$$. Guys like "lk" can pay for their latte machines.
I refuse to pay any dealer my hard earned money for a ripoff job, because that's what it is. Service A is just a glorified oil change+adblue. Service B adds the fuel filter and cabin air filter change at a significantly more fee. I really don't mind paying top $ for quality work/products but unfortunately, MB maintenance hardly qualifies. I took my GL450 in on numerous occassions for warranty work. Everytime I met with my service guy, he would push me to get the A service done and everytime I would tell him that I did it on my own. And everytime, he would use scare tactics by telling me performing the maintenance on my own could void my warranty. The last time he told me this, I told him to go fly a kite and walked off. Like someone already said, no service tech will work on my car with more care than myself. I suppose these MB dealers have to find new ways to pay for their expensive latte makers
. No thanks, I'll wash my own car and save a few $$$. Guys like "lk" can pay for their latte machines.
11-20-2011, 11:47 PM
#36
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2014 slk55 amg, 2011 gl350, lambo gallardo, 800hp supercharged viper
Kamal,
Do you have a diesel or a GL450? If you have the diesel you need to either use a MB229.51 spec oil for the 10K mile drain interval, or MB229.31 (AKA API CJ-4) spec oil for a 5K mile drain interval...
The difference between the 229.51 and 229.31/CJ-4 is that .51 is referred to as a long life oil and is 99% of the time synthetic. 229.31 is regular life oil and most of the time is not synthetic.
For those that are looking for the 229.51... It is getting easier to find, little by little, but it is not something that the typical parts store carries just yet (I have bought mine online or from the dealer) Google Elf Solaris LSX or TOTAL Quartz INEO MC3 (same oil actually) and there are lots of dealers on the net that sell the stuff.
In a pinch, ANY Mercedes diesel can use the 229.31/CJ-4 stuff if the engine is low on oil... It actually says so on the top of the passenger side air filter housing if you pop the engine cover... This oil can be found almost anywhere, and can be found as Shell ROTELLA-T with Triple Protection, Chevron Delo 400 LE and Mobil Delvac 1300 Super... Just look for CJ-4 and MB229.31 on the back label. It is low ash formula that will not clog your particulate filter. The trick is that it is only good for 5K miles... So if you have more than 5K miles left before your next service when you add the oil, you just set it at 5K more miles maximum by adding the oil.
Kamal,
If you have a GL450... Well then nevermind... That meets MB229.5 which is longlife synthetic and exactly what the GL450 engine calls for...
Do you have a diesel or a GL450? If you have the diesel you need to either use a MB229.51 spec oil for the 10K mile drain interval, or MB229.31 (AKA API CJ-4) spec oil for a 5K mile drain interval...
The difference between the 229.51 and 229.31/CJ-4 is that .51 is referred to as a long life oil and is 99% of the time synthetic. 229.31 is regular life oil and most of the time is not synthetic.
For those that are looking for the 229.51... It is getting easier to find, little by little, but it is not something that the typical parts store carries just yet (I have bought mine online or from the dealer) Google Elf Solaris LSX or TOTAL Quartz INEO MC3 (same oil actually) and there are lots of dealers on the net that sell the stuff.
In a pinch, ANY Mercedes diesel can use the 229.31/CJ-4 stuff if the engine is low on oil... It actually says so on the top of the passenger side air filter housing if you pop the engine cover... This oil can be found almost anywhere, and can be found as Shell ROTELLA-T with Triple Protection, Chevron Delo 400 LE and Mobil Delvac 1300 Super... Just look for CJ-4 and MB229.31 on the back label. It is low ash formula that will not clog your particulate filter. The trick is that it is only good for 5K miles... So if you have more than 5K miles left before your next service when you add the oil, you just set it at 5K more miles maximum by adding the oil.
Kamal,
If you have a GL450... Well then nevermind... That meets MB229.5 which is longlife synthetic and exactly what the GL450 engine calls for...
I know I need "OEM Mobil 1 5w40 ESP Formula M" but is there still different specs of this or is that old information? Such as: "The difference between the 229.51 and 229.31/CJ-4 is that .51 is referred to as a long life oil and is 99% of the time synthetic. 229.31 is regular life oil and most of the time is not synthetic." Also is there still synthetic and nonsynthetic versions of this and if so is the synthetic not recommended for the diesels?
Last edited by pteam; 11-20-2011 at 11:57 PM.
11-23-2011, 01:55 AM
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I might be wrong but diesel engines seem to require fuel filter changes more often than gasoline engines. The quality of the fuel plays a big factor - in certain regions of the world, diesel fuel has significantly higher particulate matter because it is seen as a heavy vehicle fuel (hence less QC by refineries), and only recently has become more common as a conventional passenger vehicle fuel.
11-23-2011, 07:03 AM
#39
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GL 320, 993TT, BMW 550XI
I might be wrong but diesel engines seem to require fuel filter changes more often than gasoline engines. The quality of the fuel plays a big factor - in certain regions of the world, diesel fuel has significantly higher particulate matter because it is seen as a heavy vehicle fuel (hence less QC by refineries), and only recently has become more common as a conventional passenger vehicle fuel.
https://mbworld.org/forums/4702205-post6.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/4702562-post8.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/4704685-post10.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/gl-c...ml#post4443396
11-23-2011, 04:11 PM
#40
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I love my 2016 gl350
MB of Manhattan is charging me $ 199 for service A for my 09 GL 450. I am scheduled to for this Monday. I have a 100 cupon, so it will only cost me $ 99 !!!!!
07-19-2012, 03:47 PM
#41
Senior Member
I am just about complete with the 20,000 mile service on my GL 350. Flush DEF / Adblue tank (pump out the old and put in 7.5 gallons of new), Oil Change and oil filter, new cabin air filters, flush brake lines, rotate tires (back to front) and replace Diesel Fuel Filter.
Here in California the dealers are quoting $1200 for this service and the parts alone are close to $500.
All of this was relatively easy - I'm currently troubleshooting a simple problem with the fuel filter replacement - there are apparently three different fuel filter designs available for this model, I'm finding that the factory directions are close but not perfect.
The first difference is that on my truck the fuel filter is held in place by a clamp that is in turn connected to the engine head by three bolts. The directions only tell you to loosen one bolt.
The second difference is that on my original fuel filter, there is a nipple coming out of the wiring harness connector that has a fairly substantial black plastic cap on it. The cap is held in place by a cotter pin, and the cap and housing have registration marks on them - dots of green and yellow paint.
On the replacement fuel filter (genuine Mercedes from the dealer) the nipple is there, but the filter came with a very basic rubber cap covering the nipple.
The cap from the old filter does not fit on the new one - the new nipple is about 1/16 of an inch longer than the old - so I'm stuck for now until I know it this is important or not...
Has anyone run into this yet?
Here in California the dealers are quoting $1200 for this service and the parts alone are close to $500.
All of this was relatively easy - I'm currently troubleshooting a simple problem with the fuel filter replacement - there are apparently three different fuel filter designs available for this model, I'm finding that the factory directions are close but not perfect.
The first difference is that on my truck the fuel filter is held in place by a clamp that is in turn connected to the engine head by three bolts. The directions only tell you to loosen one bolt.
The second difference is that on my original fuel filter, there is a nipple coming out of the wiring harness connector that has a fairly substantial black plastic cap on it. The cap is held in place by a cotter pin, and the cap and housing have registration marks on them - dots of green and yellow paint.
On the replacement fuel filter (genuine Mercedes from the dealer) the nipple is there, but the filter came with a very basic rubber cap covering the nipple.
The cap from the old filter does not fit on the new one - the new nipple is about 1/16 of an inch longer than the old - so I'm stuck for now until I know it this is important or not...
Has anyone run into this yet?
07-19-2012, 03:57 PM
#42
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Audi S5, GL350, Audi A4
I am just about complete with the 20,000 mile service on my GL 350. Flush DEF / Adblue tank (pump out the old and put in 7.5 gallons of new), Oil Change and oil filter, new cabin air filters, flush brake lines, rotate tires (back to front) and replace Diesel Fuel Filter.
Here in California the dealers are quoting $1200 for this service and the parts alone are close to $500.
All of this was relatively easy - I'm currently troubleshooting a simple problem with the fuel filter replacement - there are apparently three different fuel filter designs available for this model, I'm finding that the factory directions are close but not perfect.
The first difference is that on my truck the fuel filter is held in place by a clamp that is in turn connected to the engine head by three bolts. The directions only tell you to loosen one bolt.
The second difference is that on my original fuel filter, there is a nipple coming out of the wiring harness connector that has a fairly substantial black plastic cap on it. The cap is held in place by a cotter pin, and the cap and housing have registration marks on them - dots of green and yellow paint.
On the replacement fuel filter (genuine Mercedes from the dealer) the nipple is there, but the filter came with a very basic rubber cap covering the nipple.
The cap from the old filter does not fit on the new one - the new nipple is about 1/16 of an inch longer than the old - so I'm stuck for now until I know it this is important or not...
Has anyone run into this yet?
Here in California the dealers are quoting $1200 for this service and the parts alone are close to $500.
All of this was relatively easy - I'm currently troubleshooting a simple problem with the fuel filter replacement - there are apparently three different fuel filter designs available for this model, I'm finding that the factory directions are close but not perfect.
The first difference is that on my truck the fuel filter is held in place by a clamp that is in turn connected to the engine head by three bolts. The directions only tell you to loosen one bolt.
The second difference is that on my original fuel filter, there is a nipple coming out of the wiring harness connector that has a fairly substantial black plastic cap on it. The cap is held in place by a cotter pin, and the cap and housing have registration marks on them - dots of green and yellow paint.
On the replacement fuel filter (genuine Mercedes from the dealer) the nipple is there, but the filter came with a very basic rubber cap covering the nipple.
The cap from the old filter does not fit on the new one - the new nipple is about 1/16 of an inch longer than the old - so I'm stuck for now until I know it this is important or not...
Has anyone run into this yet?
How did refilling the DEF go? Do you buy the DEF bottle from Mercedes which has the special screw on connector to the tank and then just refill it with cheaper DEF from Autozone? Does anybody make an aftermarket filler/attachement or do you just need to buy a bottle from Mercedes and refill it with another cheaper brand of DEF (which is chemically identical to what Mercedes calls AdBlue)?
The reason I am curious is because the Merecedes dealer tried to charge me $400 to refill the AdBlue at my 10K mile service. I told them it is absurd that they charge me for an hour of labor plus something like $30 a gallon for something that Walmart sells for $5 a gallon. They obviously agree since they agreed to charge me only $200. But still, it's essentially like refilling windshield washer - just a little more work involved.
07-19-2012, 05:09 PM
#43
Senior Member
Flushing the DEF tank at 20,000 miles is as simple as pumping out whatever fluid is left in the tank and then refilling it.
Filling it or topping it off is as easy as filling your windshield wiper fluid. You do not need special Mercedes gold plated Ad-blue - any auto store or truck stop now carries standard Diesel Exhaust Fluid, which is all you need - it comes in 2.5 gallon boxes and where I live each box costs about $15. The boxes even come with a built in pour spout.
My only advise would be to check the production date if you are not buying at busy story - at our local walmart they carry the stuff but it was all two years old. I went to Autozone instead and it was only 30 days old.
A complete flush is 8 gallons or so - so three 2.5 gallon boxes for $45 is close enough. If you are just filling it up at 10k miles, you can see the level by looking down into the tank. I'd probably buy two boxes and I bet that would be more than enough.
This is a real easy process.
Filling it or topping it off is as easy as filling your windshield wiper fluid. You do not need special Mercedes gold plated Ad-blue - any auto store or truck stop now carries standard Diesel Exhaust Fluid, which is all you need - it comes in 2.5 gallon boxes and where I live each box costs about $15. The boxes even come with a built in pour spout.
My only advise would be to check the production date if you are not buying at busy story - at our local walmart they carry the stuff but it was all two years old. I went to Autozone instead and it was only 30 days old.
A complete flush is 8 gallons or so - so three 2.5 gallon boxes for $45 is close enough. If you are just filling it up at 10k miles, you can see the level by looking down into the tank. I'd probably buy two boxes and I bet that would be more than enough.
This is a real easy process.
07-19-2012, 05:15 PM
#44
Senior Member
I solved my diesel fuel filter question.
It turns out that they have slightly changed the design of the fuel filters in the last two years.
You need to either transfer the cap from your old filter to the new one, or in my case I needed to buy a new cap that fits the new filter as the old one was too short. The instructions from Mercedes don't mention any thing about this, and the parts guys at the dealer didn't know about it either - and I talked with two dealers service techs before going back in and figuring it out with the parts guy.
The simple rubber cap that comes with the new filter is just a dust cover - so beware you need to replace it with a sturdy hard plastic cap with cotter pin before you install the new filter.
In the picture below, the new cap is the greenish white thing attached to the wiring harness connector on the left.
It turns out that they have slightly changed the design of the fuel filters in the last two years.
You need to either transfer the cap from your old filter to the new one, or in my case I needed to buy a new cap that fits the new filter as the old one was too short. The instructions from Mercedes don't mention any thing about this, and the parts guys at the dealer didn't know about it either - and I talked with two dealers service techs before going back in and figuring it out with the parts guy.
The simple rubber cap that comes with the new filter is just a dust cover - so beware you need to replace it with a sturdy hard plastic cap with cotter pin before you install the new filter.
In the picture below, the new cap is the greenish white thing attached to the wiring harness connector on the left.
07-19-2012, 06:13 PM
#45
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Audi S5, GL350, Audi A4
Flushing the DEF tank at 20,000 miles is as simple as pumping out whatever fluid is left in the tank and then refilling it.
Filling it or topping it off is as easy as filling your windshield wiper fluid. You do not need special Mercedes gold plated Ad-blue - any auto store or truck stop now carries standard Diesel Exhaust Fluid, which is all you need - it comes in 2.5 gallon boxes and where I live each box costs about $15. The boxes even come with a built in pour spout.
My only advise would be to check the production date if you are not buying at busy story - at our local walmart they carry the stuff but it was all two years old. I went to Autozone instead and it was only 30 days old.
A complete flush is 8 gallons or so - so three 2.5 gallon boxes for $45 is close enough. If you are just filling it up at 10k miles, you can see the level by looking down into the tank. I'd probably buy two boxes and I bet that would be more than enough.
This is a real easy process.
Filling it or topping it off is as easy as filling your windshield wiper fluid. You do not need special Mercedes gold plated Ad-blue - any auto store or truck stop now carries standard Diesel Exhaust Fluid, which is all you need - it comes in 2.5 gallon boxes and where I live each box costs about $15. The boxes even come with a built in pour spout.
My only advise would be to check the production date if you are not buying at busy story - at our local walmart they carry the stuff but it was all two years old. I went to Autozone instead and it was only 30 days old.
A complete flush is 8 gallons or so - so three 2.5 gallon boxes for $45 is close enough. If you are just filling it up at 10k miles, you can see the level by looking down into the tank. I'd probably buy two boxes and I bet that would be more than enough.
This is a real easy process.
Can you pour the DEF straight from the bottle into the tank or do you need a special attachment? I have seen pictures / videos of people refilling the half gallon AdBlue bottles from Mercedes that have a special screw/ push filler top that attaches to the tank.
07-19-2012, 06:39 PM
#46
I will be doing my gl350 fuel filter in the next few weeks so thanks for the info. The dealer told me to get the part #off the old filter to see what one I needed. Do you just swap out the sensor from the filter? Also did the cabin filter last week. I bought the oil 9qts and filter from dealer today for 95.00. I will drain it from the bottom this time, I vac it out every other change. The ablue I will just pump out and pour in the walmart stuff you need 8.3 gallons but 7.5 would do fine.
07-19-2012, 06:40 PM
#47
Senior Member
You do not need a special attachment. I use a plain old ordinary funnel to keep things clean. Just wipe up any residue with a wet rag if you spill a few drops.
07-19-2012, 06:52 PM
#48
Senior Member
The new fuel filter has the sensor built in - it costs a whopping $130 - so it better also have diamonds, titanium and rubies floating around inside it...
You will need the diesel fuel filter, two fuel hose clamps (one each of two different sizes), and you may also need a new cap for the nipple on your new fuel filter if the new nipple is longer than your old one.
The part number off of my original fuel filter was A 642 090 31 52. The new filter was A 642 090 48 52. I didn't write down the part number for the new nipple cap since they just gave it to me. The part numbers for the two click clamps for the fuel lines are 004 997 20 90 05 - Hose Clamp and 006 997 18 90 - Loom Tie
Not a difficult project - I had minor trouble in only two places - total elapsed time was about an hour if you take out the extra trip to the parts department to figure out the nipple cap.
- be very careful to not drop the bolts that hold the fuel filter in place down into the engine cavity. I almost did this for the leftmost bolt as it's hard to get access to.
- go slow when re-attaching the air intake - it's very easy to get the rubber boots on each end misaligned. You want them to slide smoothly over the air filter housings on either side; it's easy to get them bunched up.
Not every day I get to say nipple cap so many times without getting in trouble ...
You will need the diesel fuel filter, two fuel hose clamps (one each of two different sizes), and you may also need a new cap for the nipple on your new fuel filter if the new nipple is longer than your old one.
The part number off of my original fuel filter was A 642 090 31 52. The new filter was A 642 090 48 52. I didn't write down the part number for the new nipple cap since they just gave it to me. The part numbers for the two click clamps for the fuel lines are 004 997 20 90 05 - Hose Clamp and 006 997 18 90 - Loom Tie
Not a difficult project - I had minor trouble in only two places - total elapsed time was about an hour if you take out the extra trip to the parts department to figure out the nipple cap.
- be very careful to not drop the bolts that hold the fuel filter in place down into the engine cavity. I almost did this for the leftmost bolt as it's hard to get access to.
- go slow when re-attaching the air intake - it's very easy to get the rubber boots on each end misaligned. You want them to slide smoothly over the air filter housings on either side; it's easy to get them bunched up.
Not every day I get to say nipple cap so many times without getting in trouble ...
07-22-2012, 11:55 AM
#49
I just checked my fuel filter for my 2010 gl350 I did not pull it out but you could see the part # mine is A 642 090 17 52 also there is no type of cap on mine at the plug. I will check with my parts guy to see what they come up with
