StevethePilot

I could be mistaken (it's happened before!) but I believe the second unit is part of the leveling mechanism.

All-in, a stock conversion could easily go over $1000/side and you might still not get the leveling units (if you go used or "broken clip," which some folks say indicates a possibly stolen headlight). Just FYI.

STP

ddcha

haha. definitely obvious. I think it would look really great on your car, but you may have to murk out the entire front grill and fog surrounds too.

rayleiwu

Same kit here. One week after it's been installed, I'm getting bulb out error, otherwise I'm very satisified with the mod. It seems the error showed up when the headlights automatically turned on in Auto mode. Re-started the vehicle, the errors cleared out. Not a functional problem but it's quite annoying. Anyway to get rid of it? (such as adding a parallel resistor?)

UPDATE: Just searched and found "HID Kit Warning Canceller", will try it out

alx

correct. hid conversions are illegal as the hid light properties are very different than the regular lights and the reflector for each (and the focusing lens in front of the bulbs) are different to accommodate said differences.

in addition in the us all hid headlights are required to be equipped with self-leveling mechanism.

the hid conversions are hard to detect from outside and this you might get by for certain period of time or.. forever.

ddcha

You have the third generation? I don't have this issue, but you may want to talk to George at xenithxenons. He'll make it right.

rayleiwu

Does anyone know the part# for this "black plastic weather seal cap"? Since I too drilled holes on them, I like to have two spares in case I need quickly switch the HIDs back to the stock.

EDIT: Just found the diagram online, which one do you think it's?

1) W/o curve illum W/o curve illum Right 2) Screw Screw Back 3) Sealing ring Right
4) Xenon bulb Back 5) Headlamp bulb Back 6) Signal bulb Back
7) Park lamp bulb Back 8) Marker lamp bulb Back 9) Signal lamp Signal lamp Back
10) Park lamp Park lamp Back 11) Marker lamp Marker lamp Back 12) Inner cover Back
13) Outer cover Back 14) Light sensor 2 plug 15) Xenon Xenon Back
16) Light output Light output Back 17) Series transformer Series transformer Back 18) Light and rain sensor Light and rain sensor Back
19) Light range adjuster Light range adjuster Back

ja62ben

Would you be so kind to tell me where you bought your conversion kit? Did you need to buy 1 or 2 kits and does it include hi beam as well. Thanks in advance.

rayleiwu

www.xenithxenons.com
1 kit for the low beam. Since hi beams are reflector type so you can't convert them.

ja62ben

Thanks for the advice......went ahead and ordered from George at suggested website. Appreciate the time responding.

ddcha

I ordered mine from George as well. got the 3rd generation. I didn't drill holes into the caps. I put the ballasts into the headlight enclosure. it all fit.

if i had to do it over again, I think I would have gotten the 4300k instead of the 6000k. 6000k seems a little more blue than the oems. I like what I have but prefer the oem look.

rayleiwu

Hi ddcha - I got the 3rd gen as well. I followed your instruction and threw the ballast into the headlights, however it was TOO hot, then I had to switch to the drilling method, they've been working great now!

Have you ever checked the heat the ballasts produced?

Agree! I'm thinking to buy a pair 4300k bulbs to test them out, do you think it'll work? The ballast is supposed to fit different bulbs, isn't it?

ddcha

The ballasts should work with the other bulbs, but check with George. What do you mean the ballasts were too hot? How did you figure that this was a problem? My old halogen bulbs used to get very hot in the housings as well. But the housing is already built for high heat. Were parts melting for you or something?

rayleiwu

The ballasts produce a lot additional heat into the housing which were designed for the bulbs only. I found some of the wires threw into the housing along with the ballasts were softened near to melt. It's winter right now, I was afraid that they could be getting into troubles in the summer time...

ddcha

hmmm. thanks for the headsup. I'll check it out tonight.

redroc14

I had done the install back in May and posted some pics putting the ballast on the inside. I was very concerned about the heat initially, but after going through the entire summer I didn't have an issue and we had some pretty hot days. Coincidently I just pulled out the wiring and ballast on one side a couple of weeks ago because I had always meant to tidy up the wiring. Looking at the wires, etc I didn't see any sign of damage from heat. Maybe it could be a different ballast? I'll keep an eye out though as to what you experienced. Thanks

BlownV8

I have felt mine after a long trip and were not at all hot. It may be a bad ballast.

ddcha

I agree that it must have been the bad ballasts. I purchased my generation 3 HID kit from George at xenithxenons and my ballasts do not get hot.

SPLe320

I just bought my kit from George at Xenith Xenons. How does it get wired up? I assume that the current wiring that goes into my current H7 bulb then plugs into the small red and black lead off of the HID bulb, the black plug from the HID bulb plugs into the red plug on the ballast and then the remaining plugs between the bulb and the ballast can only go one way. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Benzo 003

The black wire will plug into the bulb clip on the brown wire side and the red into the yellow wire side. The rest is foolproof. You cannot connect the plugs improperly. They are all male to female and different sizes to ensure this.
Simply....black to brown / red to yellow.

I had real trouble trying to push the rubber grommet through the original mounting clip...ripped both times so I just threw the ballasts and wires into the entire housing.

SPLe320

Thanks for your help. Did you use double sided tape to hold the ballast inside the housing? Or, is it inside the housing loose?

Really appreciate the help.

-Sean

Benzo 003

once everything was stuffed in their, it was pretty tight. I did not use any tape or securing devices. I have had no problems what-so-ever.

I have opened up the cover and checked the temp of the ballasts, they get warm, nothing I worry about.

If you are going with the "stuff it" method, I would just trim the grommets off, there is no need to struggle with them. Mine got destroyed anyway while trying to actually save them.

One more helpful thing.....The original silver metal clip comes off of the original bulb socket. There are 2 little tabs that go into the base of an original H7 bulb. BEND THOSE DOWN FLUSH. I struggled for awhile to fit the new bulb in. AND....that same clip only mounts one way. The outer tabs that hold the bulb to the housing point down towards the gound. There is a slight angle to the outer tabs, again, I lost some time with that struggle.

Start on the passenger side, mine was easier on that side.

SPLe320

Great advice, thanks very much.

-Sean

ddcha

Mine are still running strong. I'm getting some 4300k shipped to me soon. I'll post pics with the color comparison when I have them. I cut those soft grommets off myself. Don't need them unless you're drilling holes in the cover of the headlight housing.

SPLe320

Thanks, yes I ordered the 4300's. I will cut the grommets, sounds like the method of putting everything in the housing is the way to go. I appreciate the advice.

SPLe320

I installed my bulbs this morning. The installation was very straightforward. However, I have a weird problem. When the car is off and the headlights are on, the bulbs look great. When the car is running and the headlights are on, the bulbs flicker, both sides. The driver side even went out, then came back on after I shut the car off. Weird. It's as if the power to the lights is different when the car is running compared to when the car is off.

I called George and left a message, but does anyone have advice? Thanks.