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How did your hitch receiver hold up? Did it ever have any cracks or deformations? I am thinking of getting an Andersen hitch, and like to know if its hard on the receiver or not.
Thanks!
[QUOTE=mikapen;6740456]
Originally Posted by RostamDastan
Regarding the Andersen, yes, it does increase strain on hitch parts, because it's urethane bushing has much less range of motion than a conventional spring bar WDH. So going through big dips like approaching some gas stations puts an enormous front-to-rear twisting load on the hitch and its mounting points.
The Andersen's are reported by many in Travel Trailer forums not so transfer as much weight as conventional WD hitches, but they are very good at controlling sway.
I think any factory-installed hitch since since 2010 has the increased reinforcement, and wouldn't expect stress cracking.
By the way, our EaZ-Lift, with trunnion spring bars and friction sway bars is a superior system.
Ha. I came up with a more favorable ratio for the ML, but my point was that many people think that the only good tow vehicle (TV) is a LWB 4 Door pickup - thinking that wheelbase is the important factor.
Others think that the wheelbase of the tow vehicle vs the length of the trailer determines stability.
But physics shows that the rear overhang to wheelbase is the important ratio. TV WB to trailer length is not a part of the equation - the TV only sees the trailer as a mass. It's not a myth, it's a noticeable fact. You CAN feel the difference even a shorter shank makes.
In any case, I don't think 1/2 Ton pickups are as capable tow vehicles as a good stout SUV. Plus you can't park the darn things - too long. For me, the GL is to long to tow with, too. For my use the ML is superior. YMMV.
ML has a lower (more favorable) rear-overhang to wheelbase ratio compared to GL. And physics is physics, so a lower rear-overhang to wheelbase ratio is more desirable (though IMO its not the only/deciding factor in stability). My point is if you have to go 2 digits after a decimal point, you would not notice any difference in the driver seat. I have also towed with longer shanks and did not notice any difference in stability (I would still pick the shortest shank possible).
And don't get me wrong, I believe ML/GL are great tow vehicles: powerful, stable, comfortable and efficient. They have a max rating though (7200# for ML, and 7500# for GL). If you plan to tow 8500#, you cannot use them -- or any other unibody vehicle for that matter (unibody gives ML/GL good ride and handling characteristics). That why trucks exist. They may not be as refined, but they can tow more. So, there is no point doing the truck vs unibody battle. They serve different audiences (lighter vs heavier trailer owners).
Last edited by RostamDastan; Mar 17, 2016 at 09:04 AM.
1. Total trailer weight: 7000 - 7500 Lbs depending on If I'm bringing motorcycles with me to the racetrack
2. Tongue weight :800Lbs Initially, measured with a sherline tongue scale. I moved cargo back and reduced this to 700lbs.
3. Factory recall completed? yes
4. Additional welding completed? Yes, see my pictures above, message #44. so far the re-enforced hitch is holding up well.
5. using a weight distribution hitch? yes, Equalizer, 10,000 / 1,000 model
My GL320 CDI is a great tow vehicle so far, after dealing with the OEM hitch.
A comment to HBillsmith's comment on Suspension. I'm sorry to hear that. I've had multiple problems with my airmatic suspension as well, bag leaks, on all 4 bags over time. First 2 were bad enough that it burned out the pump. However all my issues were before I towed anything.
After having the worst experience with our 2011 350 GL, and just wanting to get rid of it, I'm contemplating using it for a tow vehicle, and tow a travel trailer. I see a lot of folk pulling heavy trailers, and I have even seen the Air Stream video on you tube, but what I don't understand is why no one is looking at the real reason of why they are limiting the tongue weight to 600 Pounds?
I too am ready to reinforce the hitch, so that I can tow a 7000 pound trailer, but that still does not change the fact that the max payload posted right on the door, is 1180 pounds. That number also includes the tongue weight . So, if I'm towing a trailer with 850 pound tongue weight, it means I only have 330 pounds left for everything else in the car.
If I put down 180 pounds for myself, then it means that I only have room for my wife, and 1/2 of one of my kids, and no luggage ....
Are all you folks towing, actually done the correct calculations ? It seems to me, they are cutting the tongue weight down to make sure you have more capacity in the car vs a weak hitch ...
After having the worst experience with our 2011 350 GL, and just wanting to get rid of it, I'm contemplating using it for a tow vehicle, and tow a travel trailer. I see a lot of folk pulling heavy trailers, and I have even seen the Air Stream video on you tube, but what I don't understand is why no one is looking at the real reason of why they are limiting the tongue weight to 600 Pounds?
I too am ready to reinforce the hitch, so that I can tow a 7000 pound trailer, but that still does not change the fact that the max payload posted right on the door, is 1180 pounds. That number also includes the tongue weight . So, if I'm towing a trailer with 850 pound tongue weight, it means I only have 330 pounds left for everything else in the car.
If I put down 180 pounds for myself, then it means that I only have room for my wife, and 1/2 of one of my kids, and no luggage ....
Are all you folks towing, actually done the correct calculations ? It seems to me, they are cutting the tongue weight down to make sure you have more capacity in the car vs a weak hitch ...
Hi RayRay,
Please see my post in this thread from a few years ago on calculating carrying capacity and cargo vs. hitch weight for the GL... It should answer your question pretty thoroughly... If you still want more, happy to help.
Please see my post in this thread from a few years ago on calculating carrying capacity and cargo vs. hitch weight for the GL... It should answer your question pretty thoroughly... If you still want more, happy to help.
DDruker,
So, that makes a lot more sense . Thanks for the clarification .
Do you have your hitch reinforced ?
I'm looking at the grand Design 2800BH . the dry tongue weight is about 575 pounds .... it has a huge basement in the front, but I can live without it, I'm also going to route the battery back to the bumper, and just use 18650 battery pack (that is my hobby - reuse old laptop batteries) ..
So. it leaves me with 575 + 40 pounds for propane ...... I have also seen the hitch scales on amazon that would make it easier to weight the hitch .....
However I'm hesitant to want to pack it, to keep the hitch at 600 pounds, just because of my experience of towing a very large boat behind my expedition - it was not fun ....
DDruker,
So, that makes a lot more sense . Thanks for the clarification .
Do you have your hitch reinforced ?
I'm looking at the grand Design 2800BH . the dry tongue weight is about 575 pounds .... it has a huge basement in the front, but I can live without it, I'm also going to route the battery back to the bumper, and just use 18650 battery pack (that is my hobby - reuse old laptop batteries) ..
So. it leaves me with 575 + 40 pounds for propane ...... I have also seen the hitch scales on amazon that would make it easier to weight the hitch .....
However I'm hesitant to want to pack it, to keep the hitch at 600 pounds, just because of my experience of towing a very large boat behind my expedition - it was not fun ....
What would you recommend ?
On this forum (and even in this thread) you will find lots of folks that use the GL to tow loads over 5,000 pounds. If you stick with the best practice of 12% of trailer weight on the tongue - any trailer over 5,000 pounds is going to exceed the Mercedes recommended tongue weight of 600 pounds. Yes we have all pointed out to Mercedes USA how stupid this is - but they don't care.
I did have my hitch receiver reinforced out of an abundance of caution. Back when I did this, about six years ago, there were horror stories of early model diesel GL's having their hitch receiver torn off by heavy loads. I have not heard any more of these stories since Mercedes did the recall on early model GL's to reinforce their hitch receivers. For my GL, I had a trailer shop weld in triangular 3/8" plate steel gussets between the hitch receiver and the bumper tube.
My best practice is to load my airstream over its axles whenever possible. I also try to travel with empty water and waste tanks when I am not going boondocking. And I don't carry heavy loads in the back of the GL when I am towing. What I try to avoid is either loading the front of the airstream, which would increase the tongue weight, or loading the far rear of the airstream, which would decrease tongue weight and reduce stability.
What I can report is that my 2011 GL 350 drives well and tows well and I have not had any towing related issues or white knuckle moments in about 20,000 miles of towing the airstream. On the other hand, at just 70,000 miles, my GL has also been hideously, embarrassingly unreliable over all.
I too tow an Airstream, a Safari bunkhouse 30. I am on my third tow vehicle and have been towing with my GL350 for 6 years now with great results. Highway cruising is awesome, mileage is 17mpg towing at 65.
Did not reinforce the hitch as I did not see much under there that looked any stronger than the hitch and early on I was worried about warranty issues. My trailer has a 8400 gvwr, but I never tow over 7200lbs and nothing but me, wife and kids in GL. Relocated batteries and few other items to the rear of the trailer and have weighed it on the CAT scales (truck stop). Using the ProPride hitch I have the weight equalized to 55% rear and 45% to front.
As far as reliability I seem to have passed some milestones and things have been much better the last year or so. Almost all of the emission system has been replaced, all Airmatic parts but the manibloc have been replaced, timing chain, oil cooler seal. Motor mounts are the only thing that needs to be done but really like the vehicle despite its "character" issues....
This is really great info and education ... Thanks ...
As far reliability, I'm there with you ... It seems anything that can go wrong with the Diesels has gone wrong with mine up to 80k miles ...
But surprisingly, and I know I just jinxed it, I have not had any issues in the last 10k miles (currently at 90k) - from 40k to 80k miles I could never go more than 3k miles without something going wrong .
When I go to order a hitch for my ml350 every recommended hitch being a class 3. It has a towing capacity f 3500 lb.where are you guys getting hitches that tow trailers in excess of 5000 lb?
When I go to order a hitch for my ml350 every recommended hitch being a class 3. It has a towing capacity f 3500 lb.where are you guys getting hitches that tow trailers in excess of 5000 lb?
I think you're mistaken on your classes. Class II hitches have the 3,500lb rating. But, try Curt Manufacturing - excellent company.
In the above cases, I’m pretty sure all are talking about the OEM Hitch originally installed or retrofitted by a dealer. I have an older ‘08 GL320 and had the OEM hitch welded/ rewelded adding some 3/8” mild steel angles between the hitch receiver “box” and the cylindrical cross bar a over it. Been going strong ever since pulling up to 7000 lbs.
Originally Posted by DennisG01
I think you're mistaken on your classes. Class II hitches have the 3,500lb rating. But, try Curt Manufacturing - excellent company.
When I go to order a hitch for my ml350 every recommended hitch being a class 3. It has a towing capacity f 3500 lb.where are you guys getting hitches that tow trailers in excess of 5000 lb?
Do not get any of the aftermarket ones. They hang off the rear bumper and do not use any of the factory reinforced tow points. The OEM hitch has inserts that go into the frame rails of the car for far greater strength. The older OEM hitch had weak welds where the receiver attached to the rest of the hitch, but newer revisions are supposed to be more robust. People have reinforced the older hitches with good success.
Edit: You will also want to get an OEM harness and find someone with STAR to program your car for trailer detection. Yes, the trailer bulb out warning can be annoying, but there are far more advantages such as trailer sway control and delayed shifting.
Do not get any of the aftermarket ones. They hang off the rear bumper and do not use any of the factory reinforced tow points. The OEM hitch has inserts that go into the frame rails of the car for far greater strength. The older OEM hitch had weak welds where the receiver attached to the rest of the hitch, but newer revisions are supposed to be more robust. People have reinforced the older hitches with good success.
Edit: You will also want to get an OEM harness and find someone with STAR to program your car for trailer detection. Yes, the trailer bulb out warning can be annoying, but there are far more advantages such as trailer sway control and delayed shifting.
That is correct. The weak hitch that absolutely needed reinforcement, was replaced for the 2010 model year 164s. The factory hitch (or dealer-installed factory hitch) can safely tow it's rated 7200#, as long as you don't exceed your axle ratings. Go to the scales to make sure, after you've loaded and adjusted your weight distributing hitch.
Don't go aftermarket, because they lack the internal reinforcements mentioned by @Tsumi .
I don't think making a blanket statement that "aftermarket is bad" is a fair thing to do. The brand I mentioned, Curt, makes a very good product. Unless you have personal experience with Curt, then there's really no way that you can say if they are/are not good. If they make one for the vehicle, it will be a solid hitch.
Last edited by DennisG01; Aug 18, 2021 at 10:14 PM.
I don't think making a blanket statement that "aftermarket is bad" is a fair thing to do. The brand I mentioned, Curt, makes a very good product. Unless you have personal experience with Curt, then there's really no way that you can say if they are/are not good. If they make one for the vehicle, it will be a solid htich.
Have you even looked at a Curt hitch for the X164? They are far weaker than the OEM hitch, which is why they're rated to 3500/4000 lbs max. To get the full 7200 lbs you need OEM.
You are the one making gross baseless assumptions, not us.
I don't think making a blanket statement that "aftermarket is bad" is a fair thing to do. The brand I mentioned, Curt, makes a very good product. Unless you have personal experience with Curt, then there's really no way that you can say if they are/are not good. If they make one for the vehicle, it will be a solid htich.
As others have stated, the OEM hitch has 2 large support arms that go into a recess in unibody and get bolted there (see the attached image). This make for a very stout hitch-unibody connection. Curt and other hitches do not have this feature. On top of the support arms, 8 bolts are used to fasten the hitch to unibody (4 on each side). This is as good a hitch as you could find for a GL/S and no after market hitch comes even close.
Have you even looked at a Curt hitch for the X164? They are far weaker than the OEM hitch, which is why they're rated to 3500/4000 lbs max. To get the full 7200 lbs you need OEM.
You are the one making gross baseless assumptions, not us.
No, you are flat out wrong. You've also seemed to resort to making callous, personal remarks for some reason, rather than having a discussion. I have owned multiple Curt hitches. Have you? I am making a suggestion based on experience, not internet searching. They are an excellent company and make a great product. Now, if they don't make one that is RATED for the proper weight class, that is a totally different thing. But that doesn't mean their product or company is inferior. Obviously if it's not rated for the right amount, a person looking for the full 7K rating wouldn't even buy it to start with. You have to keep it apples to apples. But the company, itself, makes good products - and that was the main point of what I was saying... that it would be worthwhile to check into their products to see if they had something that would work.
As others have stated, the OEM hitch has 2 large support arms that go into a recess in unibody and get bolted there (see the attached image). This make for a very stout hitch-unibody connection. Curt and other hitches do not have this feature. On top of the support arms, 8 bolts are used to fasten the hitch to unibody (4 on each side). This is as good a hitch as you could find for a GL/S and no after market hitch comes even close.
Thank you for that. That is good, informative information. As I noted above, my main point was just that Curt makes very good products and IF they made something for the GL that had the appropriate rating that they would be an excellent alternative to look into. Obviously, if you are correct in your comparison (and I have no reason to doubt you - I didn't get as far to look into it), then the Curt is not the appropriate choice... because of the rating, though, not because it's an inferior product. Meaning if it's only DESIGNED to be a 4K hitch, then that's all it is - just like a 2K hitch wouldn't be compared with a 4K hitch... but that doesn't mean the 2K hitch is inherently "bad". It's just in a different class. Thank you, again, for explanation
No, you are flat out wrong. You've also seemed to resort to making callous, personal remarks for some reason, rather than having a discussion. I have owned multiple Curt hitches. Have you? I am making a suggestion based on experience, not internet searching. They are an excellent company and make a great product. Now, if they don't make one that is RATED for the proper weight class, that is a totally different thing. But that doesn't mean their product or company is inferior. Obviously if it's not rated for the right amount, a person looking for the full 7K rating wouldn't even buy it to start with. You have to keep it apples to apples. But the company, itself, makes good products - and that was the main point of what I was saying... that it would be worthwhile to check into their products to see if they had something that would work.
You're the one taking things personally because you can't accept the facts other people are telling you. The response was to a poster asking about 5000 lbs+ towing capacity. It does not take more than 5 minutes of googling to find that no aftermarket hitch is available for 5000+ lbs. Also, to clarify, at no point did anyone say Curt hitches were garbage. It was just said that aftermarket hitches aren't appropriate for what the poster asked for.
Curt markets and sells Class III hitches for W164 and X164 that are rated to 3500-4000 lbs maximum. That is a fact. The only way to get max tow capacity is with the OEM hitch. That is also a fact.
Edit: also more facts:
Class I- 1-1/4" receiver, up to 2k lbs
Class II- 1-1/4" receiver, up to 3.5k lbs
Class III- 2" receiver, up to 8k lbs
Therefore, a 2" receiver hitch is at minimum Class III even if it is only rated for 3.5k lbs. That's because Class II hitches come with 1-1/4" receivers.
2nd edit: Also, class ratings are very loosely followed. These ratings are according to Curt, yet they also make a Class I hitch for a 2004 Corvette that is rated to 2.5k lbs. I believe Mercedes calls their OEM ML and GL hitches Class IV hitches even though none of them are rated above Class III.
You're the one taking things personally because you can't accept the facts other people are telling you. The response was to a poster asking about 5000 lbs+ towing capacity. It does not take more than 5 minutes of googling to find that no aftermarket hitch is available for 5000+ lbs. Also, to clarify, at no point did anyone say Curt hitches were garbage. It was just said that aftermarket hitches aren't appropriate for what the poster asked for.
Curt markets and sells Class III hitches for W164 and X164 that are rated to 3500-4000 lbs maximum. That is a fact. The only way to get max tow capacity is with the OEM hitch. That is also a fact.
Tsumi, you're still missing the point of my suggestion. As I've now said a couple times, it was a suggestion to the original poster to look into to possibly save some money and IF they had one that filled the bill, it would be a good option to consider.
However, using terms like "gross, baseless assumptions" has nothing to do with me taking things personally (which I am not). It just shows how quickly some people can fly off the handle. Maybe that's not a true represention of who you are - I don't have that answer - but remarks like that make it appear that way.
Tsumi, you're still missing the point of my suggestion. As I've now said a couple times, it was a suggestion to the original poster to look into to possibly save some money and IF they had one that filled the bill, it would be a good option to consider.
However, using terms like "gross, baseless assumptions" has nothing to do with me taking things personally (which I am not). It just shows how quickly some people can fly off the handle. Maybe that's not a true represention of who you are - I don't have that answer - but remarks like that make it appear that way.
I'm sorry, but how does "do not get an aftermarket hitch" turn into "calling Curt hitches garbage" if not taking it personally?
Also, taking the time to push Curt hitches while not taking the 5 minutes it takes to realize that Curt does not have anything which fits the bill is doing the community a disservice. It makes you come across as a Curt shill.
I'm sorry, but how does "do not get an aftermarket hitch" turn into "calling Curt hitches garbage" if not taking it personally?
Also, taking the time to push Curt hitches while not taking the 5 minutes it takes to realize that Curt does not have anything which fits the bill is doing the community a disservice. It makes you come across as a Curt shill.
Well, I can see this is going nowhere. Have a good night.
Know it's not a "heavy" load at 2690 lbs. but it was enough for me. Mini Clubman S - engine needed to be replaced, dealer 123 miles away, Cheapest quote to have it towed up was over $700.00 - so rented a trailer, under $100, hooked it to my wife's 2010 ML350 and did it myself. 1st time i ever towed anyhting and I survived!
Mini was repaired under warranty
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2010 ml350 bluetec hitch
