kombifan

Ookkaaaay....

No 😕


That's where I bought mine too, but I didn't push to hard on the return. Maybe you'll have better luck?

Next thing you can do is remove pads and sand them a bit with sandpaper in case they're glazed. That can help.

eric_in_sd

Crazy. Only thing I can think is those aren't the severity of stops that EBC, for example, recommended. There's more than twice the energy at 60. Do the rotors have a gray cast to them where they were pure shiny?

When you're braking to bed-in, you're doing it as hard as you can safely, right? Also, you definitely don't need a full half hour of cool-down. They just have to cool down enough that you don't get pad transfer when you come to a complete stop. Maybe five minutes at 60 mph, tops. The vented rotors cool fast.

I did brutal bed-in, kind of like kombifan said with smoking pads, and regretted it: That got me started on the chattering, with the carbide crystals (I'm trying to remember the name of that phenomenon); so you want to do it hard enough but not too hard. Here's a paper I saw at StopTech:
https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia...k-8-2018_1.pdf
There's more:
https://www.apcautotech.com/resource...ry=Whitepapers

Bed-in is tricky. Different for every pad. I'd keep fiddling with it, and also check the caliper grease. You greased the slides, the piston-like things that the two halves of the caliper move back and forth on, right?

And also look in to doing a return. I'd go direct to the manufacturer.

EBC is super good about support; I sent them a picture of cracks in my rotors and they sent me a replacement pair, no questions asked. No idea about PowerStop.

eric_in_sd

Here is a terrific article. Mentions the "cementite" problem.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...disc-myth.html

Note this article calls for a more extensive bedding process: 60-5 mph, 10x. It's tricky to get right.

DrMel

Last weekend I took the front pads off, regreased them (I mean a liberal amount on all contact points being careful to avoid the pad surface of course), and presto! no more squeaking - from the front. Since I know that works. I'll do the same to the rear. Re-lubing the pads was a lot easier than I anticipated since you only have to remove the slide pins and squeeze the calipers.

At this point, I'm chalking it up to weak lube. The permatex synthetic ultra brakes park lube is probably great for moving parts like the pins, but almost immediately washed away from the more exposed parts. I should have known since the bottle says "can also be used to avoid squeals" meaning that's not it's primary function. The Brembo pads came with a very small packet of "Brake Quiet" which I used for both sides of the front. Guess I should have used that from the beginning...

I guess in defense of the permatex, it snowed about 4" the day after I installed the new pads/rotors and they were slinging salt on the roads like candy at a Mardi Gras parade!

Thank you all again for the valuable feedback and suggestions.

fkong777

Akebono euro pad and Meyle rotors everytime. Not even a discussion for me.

DennisG01

Good - it's nice when it's a 'freebie' fix and relatively easy! It sounds like that Brembo stuff is meant for this exact application. If turns out to not last too long - check the stuff I mentioned - that stuff seems to be lasting very well.

eric_in_sd

I have a spray can of "Disc Brake Quiet" which forms a thick rubbery layer on the backing plate. It has been ages since I used it, and I don't remember if it did the trick.

Dennis brought up the fact that "all brakes squeal; it's just a matter of pitch". I guess if you see area dogs putting their paws over their ears, or bats crashing into trees, then you're probably in the ultrasonic range.

The squealing is called "violining", because the characteristic sound of a violin comes from the string sticking to and releasing from the rosin-coated hairs on the bow. Just for fun, next time you come to a stop, slowly take your foot off the brake until the pads just break free. Done right, the brakes will make a groaning sound that will terrify your passengers, without the car even noticeably moving.

Lube, shims, and my spray all loosen the connection between the pad backing plate and the caliper. I believe this damps the violining, and also drops its frequency down. Bedding-in the pads does similar, as it changes the interface. Instead of pad-steel it becomes pad-pad. So I'd still make sure you've got the bed-in process done right.

DennisG01

I have noticed, though, that as I get older, my brakes squeal less and less...

eric_in_sd

Just think, if you hadn't listened to so much loud heavy metal, you'd be able to hear the squealing better.