Did 40k maintenance my self
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Did 40k maintenance my self
So it was time for my 2011 GL 350 to have its 40k maintenance. Being familiar with the OM642 engine from sprinter vans I embarked on it. The main reason for doing it myself was I wanted it done thourghly and clean through the process.
The 20k mile maintenance was done by dealer, then at 31k I get the diesel recall for the fuel filter. Theoretically the filter has been replaced twice at this point. As I get into the 40k I find it has the original fuel filter from new!! The date stamp on the filter confirmed. I put the new updated filter part no. And find the fuel bleed port cap on the original filter does not fit the revised. Ordered cap.
Then I pressure bled 2 liters of new brake fluid (Ate dot 4 Blue). Original fluid not bad but beginning to turn dark amber.
Drained transfer case, lots of super fine metal. Glad I changed it.
Drained and refilled with Mobil 1 gear oil the front and rear differentials. Front was like new, rear was a little smokey colored.
Tomorrow night transmission and filter while I have it on jack stands in the garage. dealer won't drain torque converter, up to me to do it right.
Fun to work on car, well made. Pisses me off when you pay a real fair figure to have work done and they don't have the pride to do a good job.
Need to figure out photos so I can show filter differences etc.
The 20k mile maintenance was done by dealer, then at 31k I get the diesel recall for the fuel filter. Theoretically the filter has been replaced twice at this point. As I get into the 40k I find it has the original fuel filter from new!! The date stamp on the filter confirmed. I put the new updated filter part no. And find the fuel bleed port cap on the original filter does not fit the revised. Ordered cap.
Then I pressure bled 2 liters of new brake fluid (Ate dot 4 Blue). Original fluid not bad but beginning to turn dark amber.
Drained transfer case, lots of super fine metal. Glad I changed it.
Drained and refilled with Mobil 1 gear oil the front and rear differentials. Front was like new, rear was a little smokey colored.
Tomorrow night transmission and filter while I have it on jack stands in the garage. dealer won't drain torque converter, up to me to do it right.
Fun to work on car, well made. Pisses me off when you pay a real fair figure to have work done and they don't have the pride to do a good job.
Need to figure out photos so I can show filter differences etc.
#2
Be careful with the tranny drain and refill. Levels are measured with the tranny at operating temp.
Also on the cdi if you replace air filters you need to reset engine adaptations via das.
Also on the cdi if you replace air filters you need to reset engine adaptations via das.
#4
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Drainplug found,
My GL has the drain plug, rotated the engine around (in normal rotational direction) and found it. I also picked up a new drain plug, super small threads.
I also have the MB drift that fits the plastic extension tube to allow the pan to drain, will post how it goes.
Also taken pics of everything but need to up load them to a file hosting site i guess for them to work on the site?
I also have the MB drift that fits the plastic extension tube to allow the pan to drain, will post how it goes.
Also taken pics of everything but need to up load them to a file hosting site i guess for them to work on the site?
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Finished up...
Finished the transmission service. Took 8.3 liters in the end.
The factory fill fluid was dark green, however at exactly 40k it was super clean, no wonder they have extended the new 166 to 70k. New fluid as per spec was the dark red MB 134 stuff. Not a bad job, few special tools and takes a while to drain to torque converter through a microscopic drain plug.
As I mentioned in my earlier post that the fuel filter part no has changed, and the new filter uses a different bleed cap from the water port. Make sure you get the updated cap because the original does not fit the updated filter.
The factory fill fluid was dark green, however at exactly 40k it was super clean, no wonder they have extended the new 166 to 70k. New fluid as per spec was the dark red MB 134 stuff. Not a bad job, few special tools and takes a while to drain to torque converter through a microscopic drain plug.
As I mentioned in my earlier post that the fuel filter part no has changed, and the new filter uses a different bleed cap from the water port. Make sure you get the updated cap because the original does not fit the updated filter.