battery light flashing




Driving back home last night, battery light flashing once in a while (red) and front parking sensors beep and flash as often as the battery light. I checked the voltage multiple times, with engine running voltage 13.5-14v. With engine off, 11.5-12v. From my previous experience with red battery light, it was the alternator that was not working. But the light would stay ON all the time. It this case its just flashes at random and so do front parking sensors. Any ideas?
you should have 14.3-14.7v in the engineering menu with the engine running
if you battery is 3 years or older i would suspect it




voltage should not drop below 12 volts at any point under your condition (lights and radio). it might drop a bit if you have the rear defrost or lighter engaged, but still really should not be dip below 12 volts even after 15 minutes of running said accessories.
replace battery and take it from there
I'm not one to throw parts at anything. Have the battery tested before you buy a new one. I once chased a charging issue on a BMW M3 that ended up being a loose bolt between the alternator, the charging point on the firewall, and the battery cable. Took me months to figure it out because it was intermittent.




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give couple bangs to each sensor with bottom of fist. gently. dont worry. "bumper" is your clue here
if that doesnt fix it - clean them carefully (from outside) with soap and water.
if that doesnt fix it- you need to replace your sensor harness. fairly easy.
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Vehicle is derivable, but I don't feel like driving it. Battery voltage is 13.x right after engine shut off.




http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w251...-icon-red.html
I'm also thinking about checking my alternator again, that was rebuild couple of months ago.





edit: Also turn signals would not work while battery light is ON (with or without any additional lights mentioned previously in the thread).
Last edited by a2j; Dec 3, 2013 at 04:45 PM.








voltage should not fluctuate by more than 0.1-0.3 volts with engine running. if you turn on a large consumer (say rear defrost) voltage should dip for a second but then should climb over 13 volts and stay there. ideally over 14 volts.




When vehicle was towed to the dealer, it was not even starting. Even with a fully charged battery. I'm pretty sure this is not alternator issue.
But anyway, dealer says it front SAM. $500 part. It will cost me $1200 for diagnostics, labor, part, programming, tax, etc...
Money saved on fuel will be spent on repairs. Why didn't I buy Toyota?





But they were able to find me a loaner for now. 2014 CLS550 4matic.








And that liquid wasn't fresh or salt water.
Lot's and lots of flood damaged cars out of hurricane areas many of which had their titles washed in a way to avoid obvious records and someone doing a really good cleanup job could cover it up well.
These things have a few common electrical annoyances but corroded SAM's seems pretty rare without a causitive liquid involved.




All of this is just guessing and I think I will never know how it actually happened.



