oil catch can
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 409
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2008 GL320CDI (310k) & 2017 GLS450 (160k)
oil catch can
I'm thinking about install oil catch can for my OM642. Does anybody have it on their GL or ML? I know some folks with GC CRD have them and Sprinters vans. Are there any negative side effect of this? Does it decrease reliability? I have catch can installed on my other car with twin turbochargers. But hobby cars are different. 
I've seen too much leaked oil and carbon build up in the intake over the weekend. Most of which was caused by oil from crankcase blow-by, I think. With new oil cooler seals, I'd like not to touch this again for a long while.
Concerns? Suggestions? Comments?
I've seen too much leaked oil and carbon build up in the intake over the weekend. Most of which was caused by oil from crankcase blow-by, I think. With new oil cooler seals, I'd like not to touch this again for a long while.
Concerns? Suggestions? Comments?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,932
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From: Allentown, PA
'08 GL 320 CDI
I'm curious about this, as well. I've been searching, but apparently am not so good at it 
I'm primarily interested in whether there are any negative effects of this on any part of the engine? I would think not, but is there any part of the engine system that was designed around getting that oil mist spray?
Looking at this: https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/...ProVent_en.pdf There seems to be different sizes. I read through their instructions, but didn't see anything mentioned regarding how to pick the proper size separator?
How about the "oil return to sump"? In the googling I've done, it seems most people are just collecting the oil and emptying the "cup" every so often?
I'm primarily interested in whether there are any negative effects of this on any part of the engine? I would think not, but is there any part of the engine system that was designed around getting that oil mist spray?Looking at this: https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/...ProVent_en.pdf There seems to be different sizes. I read through their instructions, but didn't see anything mentioned regarding how to pick the proper size separator?
How about the "oil return to sump"? In the googling I've done, it seems most people are just collecting the oil and emptying the "cup" every so often?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
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2021 V167
I installed the MannHummel ProVent 200 on my GL350. Just returned from a 4000 mile trip and it scooped up almost 16oz of oil .
It is amazing how much crankcase vapor voltage volume is generated by these engines.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,932
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From: Allentown, PA
'08 GL 320 CDI
Wow, that is a lot! Looks like a nice, clean install, too! I take it, then, that you don't have it plumbed to somehow drain back into the oil pan?
How long have you had that installed? Are your winters cold - any issues with moisture vapor and freezing?
I've been reading so many things, lately, about the collectors that my mind is spinning. I came across a bunch of info relating increased oil vapor and dirty engine air filters. Had/have you heard anything about that? Something about increasing vacuum?
How long have you had that installed? Are your winters cold - any issues with moisture vapor and freezing?
I've been reading so many things, lately, about the collectors that my mind is spinning. I came across a bunch of info relating increased oil vapor and dirty engine air filters. Had/have you heard anything about that? Something about increasing vacuum?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 421
Likes: 57
2021 V167
Catch Can
I have had the setup installed for 3 months / 8,000 miles. It seems the large supply hoses (1") allow added volume to the system and also seems to slow the velocity.
I live in a hot climate but upgraded the heater element where it goes into the intake. The Mann Hummel instructions show draining back to pan but I put a 36" hose from the bottom of the ProVent to a nice brass ball valve, then another 24" to a drain point.
I live in a hot climate but upgraded the heater element where it goes into the intake. The Mann Hummel instructions show draining back to pan but I put a 36" hose from the bottom of the ProVent to a nice brass ball valve, then another 24" to a drain point.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,932
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From: Allentown, PA
'08 GL 320 CDI
Thanks, Krusty.
When you say "slowed velocity"... are you referring to the velocity of air going through the 1" hoses and the collector? I understand the relationship of hose diamter vs velocity/flow vs pressure, but I'm not understanding why that would be important here? Would you mind explaining? Inquiring minds...
Also, what was the reasoning behind upgrading the heater element given your climate... which, in all honesty, I didn't know that that's what that thing was!
Good idea on the "remote" drain with the ball valve. I've read where some simply drain this to the atmosphere... but aside from enviro issues, I would think that you might also suck up dirty/dusty air and put it right into the turbo.
If you were to drain it back into the pan... do you need to drill a hole in the side of the pan?
When you say "slowed velocity"... are you referring to the velocity of air going through the 1" hoses and the collector? I understand the relationship of hose diamter vs velocity/flow vs pressure, but I'm not understanding why that would be important here? Would you mind explaining? Inquiring minds...
Also, what was the reasoning behind upgrading the heater element given your climate... which, in all honesty, I didn't know that that's what that thing was!
Good idea on the "remote" drain with the ball valve. I've read where some simply drain this to the atmosphere... but aside from enviro issues, I would think that you might also suck up dirty/dusty air and put it right into the turbo.
If you were to drain it back into the pan... do you need to drill a hole in the side of the pan?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 10
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
2010 GL350
I have had the setup installed for 3 months / 8,000 miles. It seems the large supply hoses (1") allow added volume to the system and also seems to slow the velocity.
I live in a hot climate but upgraded the heater element where it goes into the intake. The Mann Hummel instructions show draining back to pan but I put a 36" hose from the bottom of the ProVent to a nice brass ball valve, then another 24" to a drain point.
I live in a hot climate but upgraded the heater element where it goes into the intake. The Mann Hummel instructions show draining back to pan but I put a 36" hose from the bottom of the ProVent to a nice brass ball valve, then another 24" to a drain point.
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I just picked up the same catch can after seeing your setup. I just had my spare turbo rebuilt, so I would like to install the catch can when I swap out the turbo. I have a spare pan from a blown motor I may try to drill a hole and weld a bung in. Just hoping to gather all the parts needed. Thanks for the help!
Last edited by TGcville; Jul 30, 2019 at 02:33 PM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 421
Likes: 57
2021 V167
TG...
I used 1" ID hose that fits the Mann Hummel provent 200 intake and exhaust nipples. The provent has a check valve and pressure valve built in, I did not add another. I came off of the factory CCV valve at the back of the passenger head with the factory hose, went to the inline nipple that is there (factory crimps), seperated these and then adapted to 1". Did the same 1" to factory nipple ID (5/8").
On the heater i used the updated part number for the OEM. The heater is the copper inline deal that goes into the intake right before the turbo.
I have not had the setup in the cold weather yet but have seen others get a moisture in the catch can which ends up being a "creamy" mix. Due to this I thought I would just capture the oil in the can, rather than have this mix go back into the pan. Same scenario if you do short trips. If you returned it to the pan that would work as well, you would want to use I think super high quality AN type fittings as you would not want any failure at the oil pan level. The pan on mine is steel so welding a bung into it would be easy.
So far i am super happy with what i am seeing. Dry intake for once, Hummel seems to be very effective. Curious as to how long the coalescing filter inside will last?
I used 1" ID hose that fits the Mann Hummel provent 200 intake and exhaust nipples. The provent has a check valve and pressure valve built in, I did not add another. I came off of the factory CCV valve at the back of the passenger head with the factory hose, went to the inline nipple that is there (factory crimps), seperated these and then adapted to 1". Did the same 1" to factory nipple ID (5/8").
On the heater i used the updated part number for the OEM. The heater is the copper inline deal that goes into the intake right before the turbo.
I have not had the setup in the cold weather yet but have seen others get a moisture in the catch can which ends up being a "creamy" mix. Due to this I thought I would just capture the oil in the can, rather than have this mix go back into the pan. Same scenario if you do short trips. If you returned it to the pan that would work as well, you would want to use I think super high quality AN type fittings as you would not want any failure at the oil pan level. The pan on mine is steel so welding a bung into it would be easy.
So far i am super happy with what i am seeing. Dry intake for once, Hummel seems to be very effective. Curious as to how long the coalescing filter inside will last?
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 10
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
2010 GL350
TG...
I used 1" ID hose that fits the Mann Hummel provent 200 intake and exhaust nipples. The provent has a check valve and pressure valve built in, I did not add another. I came off of the factory CCV valve at the back of the passenger head with the factory hose, went to the inline nipple that is there (factory crimps), seperated these and then adapted to 1". Did the same 1" to factory nipple ID (5/8").
On the heater i used the updated part number for the OEM. The heater is the copper inline deal that goes into the intake right before the turbo.
I have not had the setup in the cold weather yet but have seen others get a moisture in the catch can which ends up being a "creamy" mix. Due to this I thought I would just capture the oil in the can, rather than have this mix go back into the pan. Same scenario if you do short trips. If you returned it to the pan that would work as well, you would want to use I think super high quality AN type fittings as you would not want any failure at the oil pan level. The pan on mine is steel so welding a bung into it would be easy.
So far i am super happy with what i am seeing. Dry intake for once, Hummel seems to be very effective. Curious as to how long the coalescing filter inside will last?
I used 1" ID hose that fits the Mann Hummel provent 200 intake and exhaust nipples. The provent has a check valve and pressure valve built in, I did not add another. I came off of the factory CCV valve at the back of the passenger head with the factory hose, went to the inline nipple that is there (factory crimps), seperated these and then adapted to 1". Did the same 1" to factory nipple ID (5/8").
On the heater i used the updated part number for the OEM. The heater is the copper inline deal that goes into the intake right before the turbo.
I have not had the setup in the cold weather yet but have seen others get a moisture in the catch can which ends up being a "creamy" mix. Due to this I thought I would just capture the oil in the can, rather than have this mix go back into the pan. Same scenario if you do short trips. If you returned it to the pan that would work as well, you would want to use I think super high quality AN type fittings as you would not want any failure at the oil pan level. The pan on mine is steel so welding a bung into it would be easy.
So far i am super happy with what i am seeing. Dry intake for once, Hummel seems to be very effective. Curious as to how long the coalescing filter inside will last?
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
x164
Metal plate
where did you get the bracket that you attached to the catch can, that looks great! Did you fabricate yourself or buy one…also, where did you get your hoses
thaanks!
Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 127
Likes: 15
From: Northern VA
2010 GL350 BLUETEC, 2013 E350 Sport
Here’s my install with 5/8 hose to MACHSWON’s “Provent 200”
Added a short hose to a drinks bottle with a threaded on connector above the FR wheel liner.
Last edited by S-Vibes; Nov 5, 2021 at 06:53 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 23
From: Queensalnd Australia
2006 ML320 CDI (2 of) and 2008 GL320
I have done 3 catch cans - I have used 5/8 hose, cut the breather line and then run both hoses up the right of turbo. and wire tied one to the turbo heat shroud to keep it in line
I have just used copper tube as a joiner and put a hose clamp either side to join the hose to old breather, I have also rotated the breather line 180 degrees on the black valve box to help the hose not kink too much
I have NOT run to sump - sort of like to keep an eye on how much oil I am catching.
think it is a great idea and worthwhile project
I have just used copper tube as a joiner and put a hose clamp either side to join the hose to old breather, I have also rotated the breather line 180 degrees on the black valve box to help the hose not kink too much
I have NOT run to sump - sort of like to keep an eye on how much oil I am catching.
think it is a great idea and worthwhile project
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 421
Likes: 57
2021 V167
I fabricated that bracket to get the Mann Hummell in just the right spot. I purchased the hoses from McMaster Carr, fuel and oil duty. If you look at hoses specs it is surprising how many hoses cannot handle oil. These hoses are for fuel supply lines, they have a metal coil so they will not collapse under acceleration.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
08 GL450
Good thread. I just bought an 08 GL450 and plan to install my ADD 1 Version 3.3 dual clean side port I took off my Jag before selling it. The second port connects to an electric vacuum pump that maintains 10 to 16inHg of vacuum even under load when vacuum drops off at the intake.
