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If it meets the specs, it is fine to use. Mercedes doesn't make any ATF or oils, it's all rebranded. So there may be an MB bottle, but there is no such thing as MB oil inside that bottle.
I used Valvoline MaxLife ATF from Walmart in my 2003 SL and it has worked fine for 5 years. Met the specs so I used it and no problems. I believe that is a 722.6
If it meets the specs for your 722.9, go ahead and use it no problems.
Didn't realize it meets all the newer specs (I only needed 722.6 so never looked at it after that). Will keep that in mind for my 2 other MB's with 722.9 transmissions... it's a great fluid and if it is suitable for 722.9 I will use it for sure!
If it meets specs it should work, but I would not mix. It may not use the same additives to meet the spec, and a mix might fall short.
A mix of what? It's my understanding there is no OEM (made by Mercedes) fluid and so long as you're using only "MBZ Approved" ATF of the correct specs, i.e. 236.10, 236.14 or 236.15, which are listed on one of these threads, I would think that's the best you can do. You can buy these fluids on Ebay for less than 1/2 of what the dealer charges, i.e. about $10.00 vs. over $20.00. If you do a complete drain of the tranny, torque converter and flush the cooler and refill with "MBZ approved" Fuchs Titan, Shell, Valvoline, etc., so long as it's "MBZ approved" I don't see how you can do better.
It all depends on how often you change fluid, how long you want your transmission to last, how picky you are, and how lucky you are.
Lots of fluids recommend against mixing even if both are compatible.
Look at the MSDS even on Brake Fluid and you can see that different companies use different formulations. To assume a random mixture is as good as one of the engineered fluids seems like a stretch.
So, N_Jay, What ATF would you use? How would I ever know what ATF is in my tranny now if it's been changed by an independent shop? I can't imagine not being safe if I use an ATF that is listed on a MBZ memo listing the "MBZ Approved" ATFs. I expect That's what MBZ bottles up and sells to their dealers and what they use in their shops.
Last edited by 1xsculler; May 13, 2017 at 12:10 AM.
So, N_Jay, What ATF would you use? How would I ever know what ATF is in my tranny now if it's been changed by an independent shop? I can't imagine not being safe if I use an ATF that is listed on a MBZ memo listing the "MBZ Approved" ATFs. I expect That's what MBZ bottles up and sells to their dealers and what they use in their shops.
MB does not simply bottle up others fluid. They buy it OEM to their specs.
They may stay with one manufacturer, or move as needed, but I would bet they test the crap out of a new Mfg before they switch.
I would probably stick with MB a or Pentosin product since that seems to be their favorite. If I didn't know what was in, I would probably do a second change in less than the usual span, Maybe 20K to 40K miles.
It is not like it is going to instantly blow up the trans, but for full life 80K to 100K, I would not trust a fluid mix.
Shorten all the change times if you use the truck hard. (Towing, short drives, around town use, lots of hills, just drive hard, etc.)
What is the service history on the GL? How many miles did you get it with? Did it have more then the original owner?
I figure 90% of MBs get MB service from the original owner till the end of warranty? After that it is a guess without some insight.
Mercedes like all corporations send out a set of specs to their various suppliers for pricing and ability to supply what it is that Merc wants, whether it's tires, brake pads, leather for interiors, plastics, electrical, and yes transmission fluid. Pentosin, Fuchs, Febi, on and on are German companies with close ties to the mother ship, Valvoline is an American company that just happens to make some really good oil products and their cost is more reasonable here due to the fact that they are here in the states, I've been using their products for years in all my vehicles from the lowly Honda's that the kids use for college, my work trucks, to all the other family cars. My 08 GL320 has had the MaxLife in it's 203,000 plus mile trans for the past four years and almost 100,000 miles, all I can say is everything keeps on spinning, it's in my wife's ML320 as well, I also use the Valvoline 5w-40 SynPower MST in the engines of these as well.
I'm a business owner and like any corp mentioned above I consider cost and quality of product when I choose what to use in anything I own especially my cars and trucks since I depend on them for a living, for that matter I do that with everything, goes with being in business I guess. I say use it without worry, it meets all specs....my strong suggestion is, don't buy into the absolute masterful Mercedes add hype and all the subsidiaries that supply them, do your research on a set of products that you want to use, if they meet specs and are a reputable company go for it, put the money saved in your pocket. I'm a fanboy of Valvoline, others seem to be fanboys of Pentosin, Febi, Fuchs, pick your product based on your criteria and budget, become a fanboy and you to can argue your point on the forums with the rest of us. For some interesting reading and oil arguments head over to Bob's the oil guy website and check it out, interesting place to hang out once in awhile....good luck let us know what you decide....
Edit, LOL, I just realized how old this thread is oh well there you have it....
Well as long as you brought it up, Vavoline Maxlife isn't on MB's approved sheet. They're too cheap to get it approved so they just say stuff like suitable for applications that call for a particular spec, not that it's actually approved by MB. Check the sheets here:
For ATF, I like Shell ATF 134 or ATF 134 FE depending on what the vehicle calls for. You can get it from a local shell distributor. Normally about $60 for a case of 12 quarts, much cheaper than the dealer which is typically around $20+ per quart.
If one will be replacing the atf with different kind a full drain is recommended-the torque converter needs to be drained too as it holds a few quarts.
I'm with Dan on this one and have done extensive research on this as I have had 2 older Mercedes vehicles and have saved thousands by doing research and steering clear of the hacks at the dealer who think that a trans service only includes dropping the pan, changing our the filter and refilling with 4 quarts of MB ATF (I have had numerous conversations with service advisors and even service managers who fail to understand they are leaving more than half of the fluid by neglecting to drain the torque converter).....back on track, sorry for the rant. I have attached for your review that Valvoline Maxlife does in fact meet the 722.9 factory spec of 236.15 fluid.
It's a good thing too as the change interval went from sealed for life concept to around 40,000 miles. Hope this helps and best of luck.
If one will be replacing the atf with different kind a full drain is recommended-the torque converter needs to be drained too as it holds a few quarts.
I did what I think is a full drain last Friday. Drained the Weistec pan, then dropped it and loosened the bolts to the valve body, and let that drain too. Last, I pulled the plug on the torque converter which seemed to hold another couple liters. I did not try to find or drain any coolant line. In all, I got about 11.5 quarts out (didn't have a liter measurement), which is slightly less than the 12 liters I should have gotten. (The Weistec pan adds another 2.5 liters to the capacity.) All pretty straight forward. Not sure why an extra liter or so was left in there, or how I could have gotten it out. But given the extra capacity of the Weistec pan, I'm not too worried about a 10% dilution from old fluid.
The instructions here (from another thread) are great, assuming you have a V8 block and the original pan. For my OM642 diesel engine, turning the flywheel to rotate the torque converter required a 27mm socket, not a 36mm.
I will say that it shifts smoother after the full flush with Pentosin 134. The dealer used Mobil 134 (but only 5 liters) when I asked them to do a full flush at 50k. Clearly, they didn't do a full flush.
As long as it's on the approved list. Titan ATF 3353 is actually MB 236.12, I believe current spec calls for 236.14. So you're better off using whatever is on the current approved list.
I used Febi fluid that is on the spec sheet when I did the job last month. I'm in Europe now, so I thought it would be easier to find this stuff, but had to import it from Germany (to Finland.) I'm sure if I spoke Finnish I could have called around and found it somewhere, but it was easier to order it from Germany...
A previous poster linked the Bevo list. If the fluid is on that list; it meets the specs. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't use it. The 722.9 uses a fluid that was designed for the tranmsmission. I can't remember the particulars, but there is a specific reason why they dyed it blue and that's so you wouldn't put the wrong fluid in there (the previous fluid was red.) I don't know if bad things will absolutely happen, but why risk it. A new tranny is $$$$ and the fluid just isn't that expensive, and is available from numerous places in the USA. I used to order from FCP Euro (who are awesome) and other places, and it was never an issue getting the right fluid.
The 71141 spec = latest generation ATF. MB and Audi use the same trans but spec different fluids....? No.
The key wording in all that text is that it's recommended by Valvoline but doesn't say that it actually meets those specs. That's why you don't see it in the list of recommended fluids. It's also funny how it says it's ok for NAG 2 and then below it says not recommended for NAG 2. I believe ATF 134 FE is 236.15 and is not backwardly compatible with 236.14. But their miracle fluid works in both. Avoid.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Except the "Miracle Fluid" does work in 2 dozen different applications. Of course a FE ATF is going to be substantially different. Do you know what the actual differences are, or are you just guessing which fluids supercede each other? This is the way we get into the process of using obsolete ATF; when the service manual calls for it....completely oblivious to new and improved fluids which came about years after the fact.
Again, the visc and coefficient of friction of different ATFs change over their service life. So you can compare a sheared down older ATF with a newer thinner shear-stable ATF. Either way, if 6cSt fluid comes out and 6cSt fluid goes in, what are you afraid of? This fear is based on ignorance, and over-reliance on obsolete service manuals and the corresponding obsolete fluids. Basically, if you buy old Dex III and pay top dollar, you're an idiot.
How about the coefficient of friction? How is one "Universal" fluid acceptable in various transmissions? Again, the CF changes overtime and rooster tails off the chart. If you have a fluid formulated to the middle of the pack, someplace between Dexron and ATF+4, it roughly corresponds to ALL of them. Even better, the "selective" friction modifiers react appropriately to the type of friction material they are in contact with. Sounds impossible? That's because you never thought of it, and that's because you never read up on it. I did.
I'm just going by the spec sheets for those fluids. Both Mobil's 134 FE and Shell's ATF 134 FE both says that they're not backwardly compatible with older ATF 134. Just boils down to who do you believe? The ones making the approved fluids or a manufacturer that says they recommend it but they don't have any manufacturer approvals. I suppose it could be a better fluid but haven't really seen any real world data on it. Could be better or it could be worse. But if you can use an approved fluid, why even bother chancing it?
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
FE= Fuel Efficient = thinner fluid = not backwards compatible.
Maxlife is 6cSt, so idk how much thinner FE gets. I actually wouldn't use FE even if my AT called for it. I would use the regular version.
Bottom line, is MANY of those fluids interchange, just check their label. Mobil 1 is worth a look. Like many others, it covers a lot of specs.
Taking the example of any car from before 2000, the ATF has been improved, and even considering the Ur-fluid is folly.
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