Cheaper alternatives for the airbag/suspension/struts.
#1
Cheaper alternatives for the airbag/suspension/struts.
So in researching my options (primarily because the left front now droops by morning), I found some cheaper alternatives.
Question is, is it worth taking a chance on potentially lower quality parts for the cost savings?
Here we have what I believe would be referred to as the "airbag". $78 with the ability to make an offer with either a 1 or 2 year warranty (contradicting info in the listing):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Air-S...19.m1438.l2649
Next, we have the entire assembly for $126 with a "lifetime warranty". However it is re-manufactured and does require a return of your original assembly in order to receive a refund of the $75 core charge:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-X1...19.m1438.l2649
Another entire assembly with a 2 year warranty for $159 with the ability to make an offer:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Mercede...19.m1438.l2649
And finally, a compressor for $147. While it claims to come with a warranty, no details are provided:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-High-Qu...19.m1438.l2649
Question is, is it worth taking a chance on potentially lower quality parts for the cost savings?
Here we have what I believe would be referred to as the "airbag". $78 with the ability to make an offer with either a 1 or 2 year warranty (contradicting info in the listing):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Air-S...19.m1438.l2649
Next, we have the entire assembly for $126 with a "lifetime warranty". However it is re-manufactured and does require a return of your original assembly in order to receive a refund of the $75 core charge:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-X1...19.m1438.l2649
Another entire assembly with a 2 year warranty for $159 with the ability to make an offer:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Mercede...19.m1438.l2649
And finally, a compressor for $147. While it claims to come with a warranty, no details are provided:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-High-Qu...19.m1438.l2649
Last edited by kensiko; 03-15-2018 at 03:08 PM.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 149
From: Bethesda, MD
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Dont risk your money.
The warranty is often as valuable as the paper it is written on....or even less
Stick with mb oem parts or Arnott struts/assemblies ...
Mb parts are warranted (warrantied) for 2 years and unlimited mileage.
Arnott parts are limited lifetime I believe.
There are many threads extolling mb oem parts and Arnott and many beware stories of cheap alternatives.
If you are really seeking to penny pinch, there is a compressor rebuild kit available for around $300 from audi that fits the same compressor. It is listed somewhere in the forums
Cheers
The warranty is often as valuable as the paper it is written on....or even less
Stick with mb oem parts or Arnott struts/assemblies ...
Mb parts are warranted (warrantied) for 2 years and unlimited mileage.
Arnott parts are limited lifetime I believe.
There are many threads extolling mb oem parts and Arnott and many beware stories of cheap alternatives.
If you are really seeking to penny pinch, there is a compressor rebuild kit available for around $300 from audi that fits the same compressor. It is listed somewhere in the forums
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
arnottdoug (03-19-2018)
#3
Dont risk your money.
The warranty is often as valuable as the paper it is written on....or even less
Stick with mb oem parts or Arnott struts/assemblies ...
Mb parts are warranted (warrantied) for 2 years and unlimited mileage.
Arnott parts are limited lifetime I believe.
There are many threads extolling mb oem parts and Arnott and many beware stories of cheap alternatives.
If you are really seeking to penny pinch, there is a compressor rebuild kit available for around $300 from audi that fits the same compressor. It is listed somewhere in the forums
Cheers
The warranty is often as valuable as the paper it is written on....or even less
Stick with mb oem parts or Arnott struts/assemblies ...
Mb parts are warranted (warrantied) for 2 years and unlimited mileage.
Arnott parts are limited lifetime I believe.
There are many threads extolling mb oem parts and Arnott and many beware stories of cheap alternatives.
If you are really seeking to penny pinch, there is a compressor rebuild kit available for around $300 from audi that fits the same compressor. It is listed somewhere in the forums
Cheers
I'll TOFTT and report back on my results.
I plan on installing it myself because it doesnt seem incredibly difficult.
Last edited by kensiko; 03-25-2018 at 10:57 AM.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 149
From: Bethesda, MD
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Yes the Arnott front strut and mount is 300...
But even the Arnott compressor is only 300....
The following users liked this post:
arnottdoug (03-19-2018)
#5
The Arnott rears seem like a solid deal.
But $126 for the front is a little too attractive. Wish me luck!
#6
I agree Kombifan but at the least, do both the whole airbag/strut assembly unless your struts are very new or you have a very low mileage GL. Its not complicated job but enough of a pain in the *** that I hope I don't have to do it again anytime soon.
#7
Any good write-ups or videos?
Last edited by kensiko; 03-17-2018 at 02:24 PM.
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#8
Arnott made a pretty good video:
The hardest part for me was swinging the lower U shape arm of the shock over the lower control arm (shown at 3:50 in that video). If you can get an extra person to help, do that. Its just hard to push the lower control arm down all the way as you are compressing the shock and trying to swing it over the lower control arm. I actually created a thread with the tools you'll need: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...mps-speed.html
#9
The hardest part for me was swinging the lower U shape arm of the shock over the lower control arm (shown at 3:50 in that video). If you can get an extra person to help, do that. Its just hard to push the lower control arm down all the way as you are compressing the shock and trying to swing it over the lower control arm.
#11
#12
So funny story... Last Spring I replaced a leaking front, right strut. I was having a bear of a time getting it out. Pushing down, as shown in the video and what you guys have done, only caused the axle to pop out... which I immediately popped back in. Then it did it again. Popped it back in again. Eventually, after help from my wife and getting things just right I got the old one out and the new one in. LITERALLY 30 seconds after accomplishing that fiasco I though to myself... "You idiot. Why didn't you just compress the strut!". Of course I said that to myself... no need to give her more fuel for the fire! I'll remember when I do the next one, for sure! So, I didn't actually do it yet, but it's pretty straight forward. If the old one doesn't come right out, thread a wire (or something that won't stretch much) through the bolt end of the shock (with nuts off and suspension dropped, there's a gap) and use a jack to raise the lower control arm which will, in turn, compress the shock. Secure the wire around the strut to keep it compressed. For the install, if it doesn't go right in, I'm assuming I'll be able to compress the strut by leaning on it with body weight. This is where a ratchet strap MAY help (or the removal, for that matter). Regardless, once you think it through it's easy peasy.
#13
I changed both fronts with cheap aftermarket hoping to get better ride. They were ok for couple of months (about 4k miles). Now they are worse than worn out struts
Last edited by luxcar; 03-22-2018 at 10:37 PM. Reason: correction
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 250
Likes: 60
From: Houston, TX
Mercedes Benz 2007 GL450 , 2012 BMW 528i
I wouldn't support the idea of cheaper alternatives.
You can cheap out on the Labor by doing it yourself.
you can cheap out on price by searching online Or by applying coupons.
BUT don't cheap out on quality of parts.Because then you would end up replacing them sooner. It won't save money in the long run.
Our advice Arnott or FCPeuro. Buy once and get lifetime replacements with both.
You can cheap out on the Labor by doing it yourself.
you can cheap out on price by searching online Or by applying coupons.
BUT don't cheap out on quality of parts.Because then you would end up replacing them sooner. It won't save money in the long run.
Our advice Arnott or FCPeuro. Buy once and get lifetime replacements with both.
#15
Heres another how to video:
From the comments section:
" When you're ready to remove or replace the strut. Leave the top three nuts loosely fastened then compress the strut with a small jack on one of the forks at the bottom of the strut. ( I used a bottle jack). You can then get it over the driveshaft with ease. The only issue when fitting the new one, is you need to charge the system with air to re-extend the strut so you can get the anti-roll bar drop link back on. So it's wheel on then off again to get at the drop link. "
From the comments section:
" When you're ready to remove or replace the strut. Leave the top three nuts loosely fastened then compress the strut with a small jack on one of the forks at the bottom of the strut. ( I used a bottle jack). You can then get it over the driveshaft with ease. The only issue when fitting the new one, is you need to charge the system with air to re-extend the strut so you can get the anti-roll bar drop link back on. So it's wheel on then off again to get at the drop link. "
#16
So funny story... Last Spring I replaced a leaking front, right strut. I was having a bear of a time getting it out. Pushing down, as shown in the video and what you guys have done, only caused the axle to pop out... which I immediately popped back in. Then it did it again. Popped it back in again. Eventually, after help from my wife and getting things just right I got the old one out and the new one in. LITERALLY 30 seconds after accomplishing that fiasco I though to myself... "You idiot. Why didn't you just compress the strut!". Of course I said that to myself... no need to give her more fuel for the fire! I'll remember when I do the next one, for sure! So, I didn't actually do it yet, but it's pretty straight forward. If the old one doesn't come right out, thread a wire (or something that won't stretch much) through the bolt end of the shock (with nuts off and suspension dropped, there's a gap) and use a jack to raise the lower control arm which will, in turn, compress the shock. Secure the wire around the strut to keep it compressed. For the install, if it doesn't go right in, I'm assuming I'll be able to compress the strut by leaning on it with body weight. This is where a ratchet strap MAY help (or the removal, for that matter). Regardless, once you think it through it's easy peasy.
Dennis, I found this post on another forum, any idea what hes referring to in step 2 re: the use of the impact gun/wrench?
" Just changed the right front airspring and it worked like a charm; the car no longer sagging. Couple lessons learned from the experience -
1) definitely get a ball-joint separator (you can just rent one from Advanced Auto Parts).
2) After removing a retaining ring and cap, removing the bolt in the middle of the airspring (this is a step just before taking the airspring off) requires an impact wrench. the problem is that the shaft inside rotates when trying to unscrew the bolt; impact wrench provides enough momentum/acceleration required for the bolt to come loose. It took me 20 minutes to figure this part out. "
1) definitely get a ball-joint separator (you can just rent one from Advanced Auto Parts).
2) After removing a retaining ring and cap, removing the bolt in the middle of the airspring (this is a step just before taking the airspring off) requires an impact wrench. the problem is that the shaft inside rotates when trying to unscrew the bolt; impact wrench provides enough momentum/acceleration required for the bolt to come loose. It took me 20 minutes to figure this part out. "
#17
Kensiko... No, I'm not sure what step 2 is referring to. Possibly it's an airspring from another vehicle with a different style airspring? The only thing that is in the "middle" of the airsrping is the air fitting - and that certainly bears no resemblance to that description.
From "the comments section"... there is no reason to "wheel on, then off again". Or, at least, I didn't have to do that - and it was my first time doing it so I was kinda figuring it out as I went and it wasn't all that hard. But I don't recall any issue like that. In that video, I also didn't find any need for a long pry bar to remove the upper control arm bolt, nor the need for a ball joint separator tool. Honestly, just use the Arnott video - that seems to be the closest to mhy experience. Although, it's not like I do this day in and day out so maybe "experiences" will change slightly from one vehicle to another.
From "the comments section"... there is no reason to "wheel on, then off again". Or, at least, I didn't have to do that - and it was my first time doing it so I was kinda figuring it out as I went and it wasn't all that hard. But I don't recall any issue like that. In that video, I also didn't find any need for a long pry bar to remove the upper control arm bolt, nor the need for a ball joint separator tool. Honestly, just use the Arnott video - that seems to be the closest to mhy experience. Although, it's not like I do this day in and day out so maybe "experiences" will change slightly from one vehicle to another.
#18
Kensiko... No, I'm not sure what step 2 is referring to. Possibly it's an airspring from another vehicle with a different style airspring? The only thing that is in the "middle" of the airsrping is the air fitting - and that certainly bears no resemblance to that description.
From "the comments section"... there is no reason to "wheel on, then off again". Or, at least, I didn't have to do that - and it was my first time doing it so I was kinda figuring it out as I went and it wasn't all that hard. But I don't recall any issue like that. In that video, I also didn't find any need for a long pry bar to remove the upper control arm bolt, nor the need for a ball joint separator tool. Honestly, just use the Arnott video - that seems to be the closest to mhy experience. Although, it's not like I do this day in and day out so maybe "experiences" will change slightly from one vehicle to another.
From "the comments section"... there is no reason to "wheel on, then off again". Or, at least, I didn't have to do that - and it was my first time doing it so I was kinda figuring it out as I went and it wasn't all that hard. But I don't recall any issue like that. In that video, I also didn't find any need for a long pry bar to remove the upper control arm bolt, nor the need for a ball joint separator tool. Honestly, just use the Arnott video - that seems to be the closest to mhy experience. Although, it's not like I do this day in and day out so maybe "experiences" will change slightly from one vehicle to another.
#20
#21
Anyway, I swapped out the old strut with the "new one".
And now its worse than before.
Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.
With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...
Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.
And now its worse than before.
Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.
With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...
Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.
#22
FYI... one of those videos showed unbolting the level sensor arm. I guess you could do that, but the nylon connector piece simply pops right off the little ball. Just rotate the plastic arm and twist it off.
#23
Anyway, I swapped out the old strut with the "new one".
And now its worse than before.
Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.
With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...
Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.
And now its worse than before.
Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.
With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...
Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 250
Likes: 60
From: Houston, TX
Mercedes Benz 2007 GL450 , 2012 BMW 528i
Anyway, I swapped out the old strut with the "new one".
And now its worse than before.
Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.
With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...
Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.
And now its worse than before.
Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.
With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...
Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.
Although. I had good luck so far, it can happen with any new part.
Another thing to consider that your time has certain price tag too. Might not be directly $$$ but I am sure it does has a certain value.
#25
This is one of the reasons I would never go with a low-budget strut. The strut includes a shock absorber. It's a hidden part; do you think the low budget guys put in good materials?