kensiko

So in researching my options (primarily because the left front now droops by morning), I found some cheaper alternatives.

Question is, is it worth taking a chance on potentially lower quality parts for the cost savings?


Here we have what I believe would be referred to as the "airbag". $78 with the ability to make an offer with either a 1 or 2 year warranty (contradicting info in the listing):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Air-S...19.m1438.l2649


Next, we have the entire assembly for $126 with a "lifetime warranty". However it is re-manufactured and does require a return of your original assembly in order to receive a refund of the $75 core charge:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-X1...19.m1438.l2649


Another entire assembly with a 2 year warranty for $159 with the ability to make an offer:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Mercede...19.m1438.l2649


And finally, a compressor for $147. While it claims to come with a warranty, no details are provided:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-High-Qu...19.m1438.l2649

kombifan

kensiko

I hear what youre saying but to be honest, despite my hesitation, I will probably try one of these cheaper alternatives.

I'll TOFTT and report back on my results.

I plan on installing it myself because it doesnt seem incredibly difficult.

kombifan

kensiko

Thats not bad at all.

The Arnott rears seem like a solid deal.

But $126 for the front is a little too attractive. Wish me luck!

mefferso

I agree Kombifan but at the least, do both the whole airbag/strut assembly unless your struts are very new or you have a very low mileage GL. Its not complicated job but enough of a pain in the *** that I hope I don't have to do it again anytime soon.

kensiko

The car only has 25k miles on it but I agree. Not really worth doing just the air bag especially since the price isnt much more for the whole assembly, $126 vs $78.

Any good write-ups or videos?

mefferso

Arnott made a pretty good video: The hardest part for me was swinging the lower U shape arm of the shock over the lower control arm (shown at 3:50 in that video). If you can get an extra person to help, do that. Its just hard to push the lower control arm down all the way as you are compressing the shock and trying to swing it over the lower control arm. I actually created a thread with the tools you'll need: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...mps-speed.html

DennisG01

Compress the shock and secure it in the compressed state with wire/ratchet strap/etc.

mefferso

Great tip, thanks Dennis.

kensiko

So compress it before he tries to remove it at 3:50?

Any suggestions on how to compress it or is it relatively easy?

DennisG01

So funny story... Last Spring I replaced a leaking front, right strut. I was having a bear of a time getting it out. Pushing down, as shown in the video and what you guys have done, only caused the axle to pop out... which I immediately popped back in. Then it did it again. Popped it back in again. Eventually, after help from my wife and getting things just right I got the old one out and the new one in. LITERALLY 30 seconds after accomplishing that fiasco I though to myself... "You idiot. Why didn't you just compress the strut!". Of course I said that to myself... no need to give her more fuel for the fire! I'll remember when I do the next one, for sure! So, I didn't actually do it yet, but it's pretty straight forward. If the old one doesn't come right out, thread a wire (or something that won't stretch much) through the bolt end of the shock (with nuts off and suspension dropped, there's a gap) and use a jack to raise the lower control arm which will, in turn, compress the shock. Secure the wire around the strut to keep it compressed. For the install, if it doesn't go right in, I'm assuming I'll be able to compress the strut by leaning on it with body weight. This is where a ratchet strap MAY help (or the removal, for that matter). Regardless, once you think it through it's easy peasy.

luxcar

I changed both fronts with cheap aftermarket hoping to get better ride. They were ok for couple of months (about 4k miles). Now they are worse than worn out struts

TX07GL450

I wouldn't support the idea of cheaper alternatives.
You can cheap out on the Labor by doing it yourself.
you can cheap out on price by searching online Or by applying coupons.
BUT don't cheap out on quality of parts.Because then you would end up replacing them sooner. It won't save money in the long run.
Our advice Arnott or FCPeuro. Buy once and get lifetime replacements with both.

kensiko

Heres another how to video:


From the comments section:

" When you're ready to remove or replace the strut. Leave the top three nuts loosely fastened then compress the strut with a small jack on one of the forks at the bottom of the strut. ( I used a bottle jack). You can then get it over the driveshaft with ease. The only issue when fitting the new one, is you need to charge the system with air to re-extend the strut so you can get the anti-roll bar drop link back on. So it's wheel on then off again to get at the drop link. "

kensiko

Dennis, I found this post on another forum, any idea what hes referring to in step 2 re: the use of the impact gun/wrench?

DennisG01

Kensiko... No, I'm not sure what step 2 is referring to. Possibly it's an airspring from another vehicle with a different style airspring? The only thing that is in the "middle" of the airsrping is the air fitting - and that certainly bears no resemblance to that description.

From "the comments section"... there is no reason to "wheel on, then off again". Or, at least, I didn't have to do that - and it was my first time doing it so I was kinda figuring it out as I went and it wasn't all that hard. But I don't recall any issue like that. In that video, I also didn't find any need for a long pry bar to remove the upper control arm bolt, nor the need for a ball joint separator tool. Honestly, just use the Arnott video - that seems to be the closest to mhy experience. Although, it's not like I do this day in and day out so maybe "experiences" will change slightly from one vehicle to another.

kensiko

I looked into it a little more and I now think hes referring to the sway bar end link which can be found at 2:40 in the following video, did you have any issues removing or reinstalling this nut?

007_e350

Someone put gorilla glue on, you were asking for the cheapest solution, it lasted a bit too

kensiko

I was exploring cheaper solutions since this is such a common issue.

I saw that gorilla glue "fix" youre referring to...

kensiko

Anyway, I swapped out the old strut with the "new one".

And now its worse than before.

Actually, the old one wasnt that bad, it never dropped all the way down, just lower than the other side and always inflated almost immediately. And when it did droop, it took about a day.

With this "new one", it started to droop within an hour or two...

Since its worse than before, I would have to say that its due to either the part or the installation. The only piece that could really affect anything is the air hose. They dont send you a new one. They just send you a rubber gasket which goes around the current fitting. It seems tight and there arent any leaks via a soap/water test so I dont know.

DennisG01

No, I did not. The sway bar link was very easy.

FYI... one of those videos showed unbolting the level sensor arm. I guess you could do that, but the nylon connector piece simply pops right off the little ball. Just rotate the plastic arm and twist it off.

luxcar

My guess is defective part. I have to send 2 struts (new) back before getting the one that did not leak.

TX07GL450

Probably the part.
Although. I had good luck so far, it can happen with any new part.
Another thing to consider that your time has certain price tag too. Might not be directly $$$ but I am sure it does has a certain value.

eric_in_sd

This is one of the reasons I would never go with a low-budget strut. The strut includes a shock absorber. It's a hidden part; do you think the low budget guys put in good materials?