GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

2007 GL450 Hard Start

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Old 11-04-2018, 06:31 PM
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2007 GL450
2007 GL450 Hard Start

Hi everyone,
Hoping I can get some insight on a 07 GL450 I just picked up.
145k on the clock, its having a hard time starting.
When I turn the ignition on it will crank once, pause for nearly a second than crank a few more times and fire up.
Some times it will just fire up instantly, other times it will just keep cranking for about 5-10 seconds than fire up.
It's got me baffled right now because of the randomness of it.

Things I have tested and replaced so far:
First thing I did was test battery voltage, the battery that came with the car was from 2016. Everything checked out but I had a brand new battery on hand and swapped it in anyway just in case.
(Still having the starting issue, battery voltage is good)

Tested the fuel rail with a pressure gauge. It reads 0 psi with the engine off (as it should) and when turning the ignition on it shoots to 52-60psi instantly.
(So I think I can rule out the fuel filter/pump)
Now I have my eye set on possibly the crankshaft position sensor or the starter. the starter seems strong as it does start the truck and keeps cranking when it has to, but it does have that weird 1 second delay when first starting the truck.
I don't get any engine codes so I cant be entirely sure its a crank position sensor, Also it hasn't died while driving. I really just don't know because it seems like it might be from what I have been reading about these engines.
I did order a crank shaft position sensor just in case because they are cheap enough, but a starter and having to replace it on a Mercedes is a HUGE pain (had to do it on a 2011 c300 with 7k miles on it an it took hours! Also when the starter was failing it just randomly wouldn't even crank at all, and sometimes no issues.)
Are there any other things I should check/test before actually changing out the crank position sensor first?

Last edited by Aboshi; 11-04-2018 at 06:53 PM.
Old 11-05-2018, 11:05 AM
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Hi Aboshi.
This is somehow a known issue and seems to be the remedy is to replace one of the cable harnesses.
I am having the same issue and this is pissing me off so the part is 164-440-07-36.
It is the positive cable that apparently runs from the alternator to starter or the battery to starter and not a very easy to install part.
Part cost is around 90usd whereas labor is north of 400.
If possible, please post under this topic:
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...g-problem.html
Old 11-05-2018, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for the fast reply!
That very well may be the problem, when I bought the car I got it for an insanely good price because it was leaking oil. The dealer said it was the valve cover gasket
WRONG!
It was the oil fill cap missing the o-ring, but it was leaking oil on the motor to the passenger side exhaust pipe, and alternator wiring harness.
I cleaned it up as best as I could. So it could be possible it got all over that cable harness as well.
When I called Mercedes before I bought the car they said it was always serviced at the dealership and had 21 records (1 owner car), but they wouldn't tell me exactly what was done on those 21 records.
So I pressed them about recalls. They said in 2008 the air pump for the shocks was replaced, and in 2012 they retrofitted a wiring harness but they wouldn't tell me what harness it was ;(

How involved are we talking on replacing this cable?
It looks like a lead from the alternator to the starter. So will it be the same procedure as replacing the starter, and needing to remove the exhaust manifold or motor mount?
Old 11-05-2018, 11:29 AM
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Originally Posted by Aboshi
Thanks for the fast reply!
That very well may be the problem, when I bought the car I got it for an insanely good price because it was leaking oil. The dealer said it was the valve cover gasket
WRONG!
It was the oil fill cap missing the o-ring, but it was leaking oil on the motor to the passenger side exhaust pipe, and alternator wiring harness.
I cleaned it up as best as I could. So it could be possible it got all over that cable harness as well.
When I called Mercedes before I bought the car they said it was always serviced at the dealership and had 21 records (1 owner car), but they wouldn't tell me exactly what was done on those 21 records.
So I pressed them about recalls. They said in 2008 the air pump for the shocks was replaced, and in 2012 they retrofitted a wiring harness but they wouldn't tell me what harness it was ;(

How involved are we talking on replacing this cable?
It looks like a lead from the alternator to the starter. So will it be the same procedure as replacing the starter, and needing to remove the exhaust manifold or motor mount?
I really don't know but I am going to get it done.
Can you please copy and paste this onto the other topic, there's a lot of information there and your input can certainly improve it as well.
There are people who have it done, so they might be much more knowledgeable.
I'm in a small city in Canada so it'll cost me a lot I guess..
Old 11-09-2018, 12:02 PM
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07 GL450, 91 NSX, 12 Prius
I think I'm having the same problem w my 07 GL450 77000mi. It would crank nothing.. about 3-4 times. then it will start.
now. if this cable is 164-440-07-36 is from alternator to the starter. My confusion is if there is power to the starter. and it crank. why would it be this cable?
is this cable giving starter an extra boost of power to spin the engine up faster?

Is there any DIY article on this cable?
Old 11-09-2018, 12:33 PM
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I'm not sure which cable to change just yet. Either the one going to the positive post or the once going from the alternator to the starter.
All I know is mine was/is covered in oil from when the oring was missing form the oil filer cap. So That might just be the straw that broke the camels back on this cable.
When I have time I will be changing out the positive lead cable that goes form the post to the alternator because that one seems to be covered in grime and oil when I feel it by the alternator.
If that one doesn't take care of it I will move to the major pain in the *** one being the alternator to the starter.

I really don't think its the crank position sensor because there is no difference between starting cold or hot.
I doubt it's fuel delivery issue because I tested that as well.
It cant possibly be the battery because it's brand new (I also put a battery in from my range rover just in case)
I do want to believe its one of the battery cables, as it seems to line up with the issues were having. The delay crank than it might catch right after or keep cranking till it starts.
I believe whats happening when the crank delays is its starving for fuel because the computer its telling it to hold back fuel noticing the starter stopped cranking. Than as soon as it starts cranking normally again its giving it the fuel it needs to fire up.
Old 11-09-2018, 05:20 PM
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Just read the other post word for word. and 164-440-07-36 cable part - " It is the starter harness from starter to positive battery jump post.... " Jump post! that is on top of the engine compartment @ passenger side near windshield.
Old 03-10-2019, 06:40 PM
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2007 Mercedes-Benz GL450
New AGM and auxiliary batteries went in today. Let's hope this staves off a starter replacement anytime soon. Free install was great!
Old 07-01-2022, 11:32 PM
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2011 GL 550, 2010 MB S550, 2004 BMW 645Cic 1988 Corvette
Originally Posted by Aboshi
Hi everyone,
Hoping I can get some insight on a 07 GL450 I just picked up.
145k on the clock, its having a hard time starting.
When I turn the ignition on it will crank once, pause for nearly a second than crank a few more times and fire up.
Some times it will just fire up instantly, other times it will just keep cranking for about 5-10 seconds than fire up.
It's got me baffled right now because of the randomness of it.


Things I have tested and replaced so far:
First thing I did was test battery voltage, the battery that came with the car was from 2016. Everything checked out but I had a brand new battery on hand and swapped it in anyway just in case.
(Still having the starting issue, battery voltage is good)

Tested the fuel rail with a pressure gauge. It reads 0 psi with the engine off (as it should) and when turning the ignition on it shoots to 52-60psi instantly.
(So I think I can rule out the fuel filter/pump)
Now I have my eye set on possibly the crankshaft position sensor or the starter. the starter seems strong as it does start the truck and keeps cranking when it has to, but it does have that weird 1 second delay when first starting the truck.
I don't get any engine codes so I cant be entirely sure its a crank position sensor, Also it hasn't died while driving. I really just don't know because it seems like it might be from what I have been reading about these engines.
I did order a crank shaft position sensor just in case because they are cheap enough, but a starter and having to replace it on a Mercedes is a HUGE pain (had to do it on a 2011 c300 with 7k miles on it an it took hours! Also when the starter was failing it just randomly wouldn't even crank at all, and sometimes no issues.)
Are there any other things I should check/test before actually changing out the crank position sensor first?
I know this is an old thread, but I am bumping in an attempt to save people who are experiencing similar issues. The bottom line is the starter is bad. I recently went through this on my S550. It took over a year for the starter to finally die, and when it did it was in the worst spot imaginable. A late January day, one level down in a Manhattan parking garage. These starters die a slow death. When the car takes more than 5 seconds to start it's because the starter is becoming so weak that it can't turn the motor fast enough. I tested my main battery, it was fine. I replaced the AUX battery as well because it was dying and that didn't help. Once I realized the starter was no good it was to late, my wife was driving the car and the toe truck driver disregarded her and attempted to jump-start the car, he put the cables on the wrong way and fried my EIS. A $500 repair turned into $3900 with the towing. One tow to get the car out of the basement, the other tow back to Staten Island from Manhattan. It was a total nightmare that could have been avoided. . Once the new starter is in the car cranks and starts within 2 seconds. It's a notable difference.

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