aggst1

My 2011 GL450 with 80K miles is jumping all over the place and at a recent service the dealer diagnosed bad rear shocks. They quoted me $1600 to replace just the shocks, not the air springs! The air springs have already been replaced. I declined and looking to get the work performed by an independent Mercedes only shop where I already had front brake pads and rotors replaced last year and was happy with them. My question to fellow members is if there is a difference between Bilstein and OEM shocks as the price difference is significant . Also my car does not have ADS. I know OEMs
are made by Bilstein so are they the same? Are the Bilstein branded ones any worse? What do you guys use? I would appreciate the help.

kombifan

Bilstein are oe. Rockauto had them for 135$ each.

If your handy forum members have done them diy. Otherwise call mb indy shops and ask for a labor quote and bringing your own parts.

Budget 2 hours each side. Reasonable rate is 80$ an hour.

aggst1

Thanks kombifan! I see the Bilsteins at Rock auto for $135.79 , that is a great price! How do these compare with OEMs? I know OEMs are made by Bilstein but are they same, or at least similar? Anyone know?

kombifan

I'm pretty sure these are the oe (original equipment) part. The only difference between this and genuine mb part is tde different packaging and logo
I've heard great stuff about Bilstein,

But I couldn't tell you with 100% certainty that these are the same because I haven't changed mine yet.

TX07GL450

I am about to change mine and will let you know if there are any difference. I am 99% sure it is going to be same since same part number across FCP euro and rockauto. I might have gone with FCP euro but I don't think that I will have to replace them ever. so would rather not pay extra 100 for lifetime replacement.
I am debating whether to do it through breaking the rear handrest way or proper way to unscrew quite a bunch of screws.

This link is do it correctly

1xsculler

My recently acquired (86k miles), 2012, GL450 was jumping all over the place too. I previously had an '07 GL450 and I installed Arnotts (lifetime warranty...excellent reputation) front and rear and loved them. I could see that the OEM rears, on my '12, were leaking and someone had just put Arnotts on the front so I installed Arnotts on the rear (about $175 each directly from Arnott), about a two hour job by only popping the third seat armrests off. The car rides like a dream...I am so happy. NB, when trying to loosen the lower shock bolt, turn the bolt head end first. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't budge it by trying to turn the 15/16" , 24mm nut. I have no idea why. When popping the 3rd seat row armrests off you will sacrifice one tab but I can live with that compared to taking the entire rear compartment apart. Finding the upper shock nuts using a very long screwdriver takes a few minuted but is doable. Loosen the lower shock bolt by applying your wrench to the head of the bolt before loosening the upper shock nuts (13mm). My Airmatic seemed to be working well so I didn't mess with the rear airbags.

A 13mm DEEP socket and the hand of my 7 year old granddaughter (to start the new upper shock nuts on the shock studs) would have made dealing with the upper shock nuts easier.

1. Loosen lug nuts
2. Jack car up and support at jack points with jack stands (block front tires). Remove rear wheels.
3. Loosen lower shock bolts, bolt head end.
4. Place floor jack under control arm where lower shock bolt is.
5. Jack control arm up to take pressure off upper shock nuts.
6. Use a very long screwdriver to pop 3rd row armrest off and to clear various types of insulation to expose upper nuts. It appears that 99% of the attaching clips can be used for re-installation as only one on each side broke.
7. Remove upper nuts. The large round wire harness on the passenger side looks like it would be a problem but it wasn't in the way once the insulation was moved/removed. No need to use a universal swivel joint on your ratchet. Both front nuts and the passenger side rear nut can be removed with a ratchet and a couple of extensions. For some reason the driver's side rear nut is farther towards the rear of the car so it can be removed with the 13mm DEEP socket only on the ratchet, no extensions needed.
8. Lower control arm and remove lower bolt and then shock.
9. Install new shock with lower bolt and jack lower control arm up to fit upper shock studs through holes in wheel well. Have 7 year old granddaughter start upper nuts on studs.

I wouldn’t hesitate to use the Rockauto Biltsteins to save about $80. I should check to see if Arnott still has a lifetime warranty or a reman, non-ADS shock..

Replacing the fasteners is typical MB super overkill. If you're afraid those 15/16" nuts are going to come loose put a little loctite on the threads. New shocks should come with new upper nuts but the old ones would work fine too.

3rd row armrests clipped on very nicely although I doubt that every clip engaged each clip slot. Taking the trunk apart is totally unnecessary unless you're a professional and being paid to do the job.

TX07GL450

I replaced them today. I went with bilstein from rockauto $135 each.

kombifan

Which procedure did you use? Do you feel a difference?

easy?

TX07GL450

I started with removing handrest technique on driver side. Rear nut needed some maneuvering of swivel joint through insulation but was do able. On passenger side I got stuck after removing the handrest. There was a big one inch thick wire bundle right above the nuts. It was zip tied to body. I didn’t want to mess with wires, as from my experience wires in a 12 year old SUV get brittle and can loose insulation from excessive handling. I have been there when I did headlight projectors in my GL.
So on passenger side, I ended up swaying the whole panel off using the “proper” technique. Still it helps to have the hand-rest off for better access.
It was easy to put the handrest back on. Some connectors broke but about 6 clips still work and hold it in place.

kombifan

how does the handset look after you did it ?

I think ink I need to do my rears, just a little worried about the handrestafter it’s been dissembled and the extra work to do it proper.

TX07GL450

StradaRedlands

Great directions here, thanks to all of the posts above! I ended up pulling off the arm rests rather than dealing with the panels. Easy to get the nuts off the studs after I drilled an extra hole in the plastic (image below). But then I hit the wall with the bottom 24mm bolts. Could not loosen them for the life of me. Breaker bar angle was terrible and I couldn't really use it, and ratchet didn't give enough leverage. So ended it up taking it into my local shop. Was nice of me to do all the hard work for them!

TX07GL450

Well. You did most of the hard work for them. If you would have posted the problem here, we would have suggested something. I would have suggested either to raise SUV more to gain clearance for breaker bar, or to temporarily buy (and later return) something like following electric impact wrench from HF.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-...tch-61173.html

I have been owning mine since I got one for 40 buck in 2013 in Boston. It saved a lot of elbow grease for me over the course of last 10 years. This coupled, with impact sockets, extensions and joint set would have solved your problem.
https://www.harborfreight.com/univer...ece-67920.html

I hope shop gave you a discount

Max Blast

Jack pad on tip of breaker bar jack up and voila

StradaRedlands

Both of the above would have been smart options! But instead, I am instead supporting the local economy.
I have a pretty good shop around the corner for when I get in over my head.
But I could have bought a nice impact set with the cost!

StradaRedlands

FYI, the arm rests went back into place fine. They float around a bit and can get pulled off pretty easily, but cosmetically no drama!