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Is it possiblt to get JUST the PCV valve? All I can find is the whole setup. Actually, all I REALLY need is the rubber diaphragm inside the valve. I'm going to install that Provent 200 oil catch can that's been talked about, but I opened up the PCV valve and the diaghragm is getting hard, along with a small tear. This is for the 3.0L diesel.
RMEuropean(.)com has just the PCV without the hose for under $40. Even though you might use a catch can, you need that diaphram in the PCV to work as designed (to suck shut above a certain boost level).
RMEuropean(.)com has just the PCV without the hose for under $40. Even though you might use a catch can, you need that diaphram in the PCV to work as designed (to suck shut above a certain boost level).
Aha! That makes sense. So once the turbo is spooling up enough, it's making enough pressure (well, "vacuum", as far as the PCV is concerned, I suppose) to close the valve. Hence the "spring". Thank you.
Just makes me wonder is one of these will fit... or something similar. Or if there does happen to be a company out there providing just the membrane? It's not that I'm trying to be cheap - just sensible, you know? If we found that this is true, it could be helpful to others, as well.
I started to realize I was spending too much time trying to google and find a replacement membrane. So I ordered two things... I ordered the one in my Amazon link (post #5) - I figured it was worthwhile to try it and see if it would fit. I did find that Vaico brand that you guys talked about/linked to. But having never heard of that brand, I was a little skeptical - not necessarily of initial quality, but more about the quality of the membrane and how long it would remain supple. That's not to say you guys made a bad choice by ordering - I just wasn't sure one or the other... So I ponied up and ordered the new assembly from FCP. Supposedly there has been cases where the original style of orange seal would get sucked into the turbo. I'm not sure I buy that - I think it would have to be user error on assembly that would allow that. But, anyways, that's the reason for that redesign where the seal is "captured", now.
GL786... how long have you had that installed? How are those lines holding up to the heat... are they getting hard?
Thanks. Actually, as I looked into hoses like you have, that "oil" part was another question. From what I've found, PVC hose is generally not recommended for petroleum products. What you have "looks" to me like PVC... is it something else? Or were you able to find different information regarding oil resistance?
West Marine sells some high temperature oil resistant tubing rated to 200 F. I would recommend some stainless steel scrubber pads inside catch can to suspend oil vapor droplets as oil will otherwise stay vaporized through most of catch can circuit.
Thanks. Actually, as I looked into hoses like you have, that "oil" part was another question. From what I've found, PVC hose is generally not recommended for petroleum products. What you have "looks" to me like PVC... is it something else? Or were you able to find different information regarding oil resistance?
Vinyl actually isn't bad. it won't disintegrate like butyl rubber, but isn't as long-lived as neoprene. It gets hard and stiff with prolonged oil and temperature exposure.
The fiber reinforcement helps stop it stretching under pressure, which is not applicable in this situation.
It's not what I would use, but it's not terrible either.
West Marine sells some high temperature oil resistant tubing rated to 200 F. I would recommend some stainless steel scrubber pads inside catch can to suspend oil vapor droplets as oil will otherwise stay vaporized through most of catch can circuit.
Thanks - I'll check them out. I found some through McMaster - but will compare with WM. The catch can I'm using is that ProVent 200 - it already has a nice, internal filter. But good point about the pads if it was just going to be an "empty" can.
I would recommend some stainless steel scrubber pads inside catch can to suspend oil vapor droplets as oil will otherwise stay vaporized through most of catch can circuit.
Distillers do the same for fractional distillation, e.g. homemade vodka.
Vinyl actually isn't bad. it won't disintegrate like butyl rubber, but isn't as long-lived as neoprene. It gets hard and stiff with prolonged oil and temperature exposure.
The fiber reinforcement helps stop it stretching under pressure, which is not applicable in this situation.
It's not what I would use, but it's not terrible either.
Maybe I'm overthinking it. But I also know that if I use the vinyl stuff, I'll probably ALWAYS be thinking about it!
Here's another thought... The Provent 200 has what appears to be a very small (maybe a couple ounces) "catch" area. I'm not planning on plumbing this back into the oil pan. Which means (I think) as the canister fills up, it's going to saturate the filter, rendering it less and less useful... along with possibly transferring some of the oil vapor back to the turbo. So, maybe I should install ANOTHER catch can (but a very simple one - just a container, basically) below the PV 200's drain. Essentially, drain the PV 200 into a can - then drain the can every so often.
Thanks. Actually, as I looked into hoses like you have, that "oil" part was another question. From what I've found, PVC hose is generally not recommended for petroleum products. What you have "looks" to me like PVC... is it something else? Or were you able to find different information regarding oil resistance?
The hose I got is oil resistant but only temp rated to 60 degrees & I got this from a hydraulic shop that only sells hoses,
Ideally, to catch most oil possible a method by which to cool catch can circuit in some way so that vapor recoalesces into liquid there instead of turbo intake & intercooler where cold fresh air is usually 1st introduced to exhaust temperature vapor suspensions from CCV. I'm contemplating an air duct from grill plumbed so that it will force air to blow across catchcan directly while vehicle in motion.
That Ryco looks good - nice that it has a built-in reservoir. In two months of driving with it, about how many miles/kilos is that?
Good point about cooling things down. I'm planning on having the Provent behind the passenger side headlight - so I can have the catch can below that. If I mount it as low as feasibly possible (easier to get to the drain, as well), it should be in a pretty cool spot.
Catch can on mine typically gets up to around 136 F in front of PS wheel well when engine is at full warm-up around 178 F @oil filter housing & 165 F @coolant degas bottle. My cc has a place on top for a K&N style air filter can screw on (that I havent tried yet) but also a dip-stick so can check levels in cc. When I pull cc dip stick out w/ engine idling observe a steady stream of light smoke vapor pushing up through cc dipstick hole indicate to me vapor stream really need more rapid cooling to better liquify particle suspensions .i think a cold air ram style nozzle plumbed from grill directly aimed @ cc bottle from below or maybe a little laptop electric cooling fan would act similar to a mini intercooler & potentially capture more oil. I might try cc air filter as well to see if letting ccv pressures vent to atmosphere better than vent to turbo tract.. I've found current setup still letting oil get back to turbo inlet but dont want alternative of smoke snorkel coming out from under hood so pondering next steps to take.
Last edited by PSDCampervan; 11-15-2019 at 06:25 AM.
I looked last night at the area on the PS behind the headlight... not sure if I'm going to be able to get BOTH pieces there. With the filter ($50!) that's inside the Provent unit, I'm hoping that eliminates (or nearly eliminates) oil particles going back to the turbo. Hoping. Wherever I end up putting the "plain" catch can, I think simply having the second can is going to help.
I may take a look underneath the car. With my old diesel Suburban, those frame rails where plenty tall and there was gobs of space for mounting things. I put a remote-mount oil filter there - SO easy to change. I wonder if there's room under the GL to run a longer hose to a remote location for the CC. Simply having that longer hose would help, too.
Can you weld cooling "fins" onto your CC? Or maybe just repurpose some type of container that already has cooling fins on it? I agree - wouldn't want to use that K&N filter... although it would help to keep that area of the car rust free!
I did some googling for power steering hose - but having trouble finding it in 1". I assume you're referencing using the hose meant for the pressure side of the power steering system? The stuff from McMaster that I referenced is $7.66/foot - so not too bad. Steel reinforced so definitely overkill, but still has a decent bend radius.
I previous Indy used this one. I just replaced after 50k miles because I had a lot of leaking oil. In the front charge on the front of the engine near the resonator. Also leaking somewhere in the back. Possibly the seal from the turbo to the charge pipe, turbo pedestal seal. Or oil cooler seals. I did not want to change oil cooler if not the problem. I took it to a mechanic and all they were interested in was changing the oil cooler.
Yesterday I installed a new Mercedes branded part and when I pulled the cap off. The diaphragm was basically fused to the cap. No way this was sealing under boost. I will report back it it was the major cause of the leak.
It resembles the oil cooler leak because it drips through the rear weep hole. I would not have thought it was the problem if I didn’t have the oil dripping on the front. I changed the resonator with a less restrictive SS pipe from CB engineering. So more noticeable.
I imagine some of the oil coolers are being changed when the CCV is the culprit
I previous Indy used this one. I just replaced after 50k miles because I had a lot of leaking oil. In the front charge on the front of the engine near the resonator. Also leaking somewhere in the back. Possibly the seal from the turbo to the charge pipe, turbo pedestal seal. Or oil cooler seals. I did not want to change oil cooler if not the problem. I took it to a mechanic and all they were interested in was changing the oil cooler.
Yesterday I installed a new Mercedes branded part and when I pulled the cap off. The diaphragm was basically fused to the cap. No way this was sealing under boost. I will report back it it was the major cause of the leak.
It resembles the oil cooler leak because it drips through the rear weep hole. I would not have thought it was the problem if I didn’t have the oil dripping on the front. I changed the resonator with a less restrictive SS pipe from CB engineering. So more noticeable.
I imagine some of the oil coolers are being changed when the CCV is the culprit
I’d check thoroughly what it is before tearing down for oil cooler seals, well that will require everything to come off anyway... turbo has two seals, one right underneath the turbine and the other on top of the engine block ... I’ve been through the hassle of oil cooler seals and going to brainstorm a line going to a small radiator type oil cooler behind the radiator, like the bmws, on the contrary I don’t want to skim aluminum block for fittings just yet we’ll see...
regarding PCV oil , I’d be more concerned with what EGR is dumping in vs this is just minuscule.. here’s an example on my rig at 65k, I’ve posted a thread about it with another issue but frankly pcv oil is a joke compared to what egr is doing and just destroying the charge pipe, intake manifold, intake valves, swirl operation and I think even piston head (haven’t looked inside) reducing the engine CC size...
I am still pumping oil. So something is leaking. I figure I will probably have the whole thing gone through. I have about 200k. Honestly I wish i could find a vehicle I’d prefer. Mine now has some flaws with headliner falling in spots, major dent in door, rips in seats and TC is making noise on heavy acceleration. But has new AC/starter/alt/steering rack. Suspension is mostly new. Rear bags were replaced about 100k ago, so probably time.
i really don’t care that much how it looks as long as it’s dependable. I had gde tune around 135 k. So my plan has been when I do the seals I will do an cb engineering egr delete. Also they will clean and port the intakes as well as weld up swirl motor mounts and remove flaps. Possibly may install catch can at this point. But will send turbo off and have gone through and possibly modified. With the tune I am am able to run a better protecting oil with dpf eliminated.
I figure I just keep going. I don’t drive as much now. So thinking of fixing everything including bodywork. Tough call though but this leak is getting annoying. I leave a mark every where I go. ☹️
BTW that intake is ugly for 65k. Curious what mine is like. From what I have read the egr is the major problem since the soot becomes a tar with the oil. I figure one needs to be eliminated.
Last edited by smiledr996s; 12-01-2019 at 02:31 PM.
11-11-2019, 10:22 PM
Supposedly there has been cases where the original style of orange seal would get sucked into the turbo. I'm not sure I buy that - I think it would have to be user error on assembly that would allow that. But, anyways, that's the reason for that redesign where the seal is "captured", now.
