Three months after alignment by the dealer it has a record of going out especially camber, eating up the tire from inside... I have new tires and don’t wanna ruin them, what are my options ? One mechanic said to change upper control arms, I also saw k-mac kits but they’re pricey,
the car doesn’t pull to one side and I have stock tire size and rims

thanks

 

Man, you keep having all kinds of issues with this car! You shouldn't need to put a kit on there - my tires are wearing very evenly - 33K miles and rotate every 5K. Something has gotta be worn out under there. Find a GOOD suspension shop - someone that does a lot of this. We have a place like that here and while I wouldn't necessarily distrust my local MB dealership, I would go to this local shop (and have been for 20 years) in a heartbeat before I went to the dealer.

Did the mechanic physically check it out and say it's worn? There's not a whole lot under there, though. Unless maybe the car was in a accident and things are somewhat out of place.

 

Of course unless set incorrectly previously, alignment never goes out unless something is bent, broken, or otherwise worn out. In all cases, new parts are required, as no “adjustment” is possible to correct these conditions. Nothing just comes loose or slips, as by design this can’t happen. If your vehicle actually requires realignment, you can for sure know it as you will experience handling or steering anomalies, note unusual tire wear, or simply just remember the accident. If none of these are present, you do not need your alignment checked. I’ve never owned a car that required alignment.

 

The fact is there is nothing to adjust on the front suspension except for Toe (directional) adjustment!!


It is all to do with cost cutting and ever increasing speed of assembly lines.

This is why we saw the need to reinstate from the early 90's once again, full precise adjustment (KMAC currently produces front and rear kits for over 30 vehicle makes).

CAMBER - essential to allow to adjust tire contact angles. Spreading load more evenly.

CASTER to compensate for the new Camber change, correctly resolve steering pull along with also being able to improve directional control, steering response.

KMAC Front kit # 503816-1 J $380

This kit simply replaces the 4 upper wishbone arm "inner bushings"

Comes with bush extraction tool allowing kit to be fitted on vehicle without arm removal (or special tools needed).

Providing precise Camber and also Caster adjustment （up to 1.5o Positive or Negative)


Alternatively, front kit #503816 M $595

Replaces the 4 lower arm inner bushings also providing precise Camber and Caster up to 1.5o Pos. or Neg. These lower arm bushings are the highest wearing - especially the 2 rear and OEM are expensive to replace.

This front kit also comes with bush extraction tools, so no need for lower arm removal.


For the rear #504026K $480 replaces the lower arm (highest wearing) bushings doubling the existing adjustment range. Bush extraction tool also provided.

Delivery $40 one kit ($60 front and rear kits)

 

I've not driven in Chicago in a while, but my recollection is that the roads there are pretty lousy. Just like in PA where I used to live. These are big, heavy vehicles and when you hit a good size pothole it can absolutely tweak the alignment without breaking something. The only thing adjustable (stated above, and correct) is toe. You set toe by adjusting the tie rods which are almost certainly what you need to adjust.

I've owned my GL for 6 years and have had one alignment done in that time (same issue as OP - noticed inside edge tire wear.) I took it to a local shop that specializes in MB and BMW and he said it was a very common problem. PA is almost always listed at or near the top of "worst roads in America" and the roads in the area I lived in fit that bill. I remember one Spring after a winter where we had a lot of freeze/thaw, I took the car in for some warranty work and the dealership was a mad house. Service manager told me they had so many cars in for replacement wheels and tires from hitting potholes that they couldn't keep up.

An alignment cost me $100 and fixed the issue that I found with this kind of wear. It hasn't come back in the 2 years since I had the work done (I've driven much more deliberately since then.) I'd suggest OP take the vehicle to a European specialist that has an alignment rack (or access to one) and have them do the alignment. I doubt anything is bent or broken; the suspension on this vehicle is quite robust and it would take a big hit or a lot of miles to require replacement, though that certainly isn't out of the question. When a specialist (not just a tire/alignment place) looks over the car, they will be able to figure out if anything needs replacement. I've said it before; I usually do my own alignments (it.s easy if you know what you're doing and have a set of toe plates) but this thing is so heavy that it's just not worth the trouble for what an alignment costs.

 

Thanks guys, question: upper front control arms: if the bushings are worn does it cause tire to wear from inside ? I’m trying to narrow down which bushings are causing inner tire wear