Rack and Pinion Bushing Replacement DIY anyone?
06-17-2020, 03:54 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Rack and Pinion Bushing Replacement DIY anyone?
My backyard mechanic told me the reason there's an EXCESSIVE amount of play in my steering wheel when making turns, and it's failure to return to center after making a turn (example U-turn) is related to a failed bushing to the point where it's pretty much metal on metal. I'm trying to find some instructions on replacing the bushing. I have the part ($14 for 4 bushings two on each front side). But my mechanic was wondering if the rack and pinion had to be dropped or not. I found a thread that lightly touched on the subject but just not enough detail. He will figure it out eventually but if I can save him some time with a DIY that would be great. It's an 08 with over 200K on the odometer so let's be realistic with your suggestions. He's also performed an airmatic to coil conversion which went well using a Suncore kit. I don't plan on replacing airbags every 5 minutes on this old beater I bought to haul the kids and dog in.
Additional notes: Anyone interested in the Suncore airmatic conversion kit. It worked out nicely, but instructions were worthless. Customer service was worthless. And you need a special spring compressor to compress the rear coil. The standard ones you rent inner and outer from your local parts joint won't work. It won't compress the rear enough (worked fine on the front). Also the disks inside the coil allow you to lower the vehicle by removing 1 for each height adjustment. This confused the hell out of us until we called worthless customer service. Not sure why anyone would lower the rear of a GL? Anyway here's the correct spring compressor for the rear Suncore airmatic to coil kit: You'll also need to take it to a shop to disable the airmatic alert. But for $500 for parts I couldn't complain. The Strut Masters was significantly more expensive and I believe comes with a computer trick. The Suncore version also doesn't support Active Dampening Suspension, so if yours has that...it won't work.
Additional notes: Anyone interested in the Suncore airmatic conversion kit. It worked out nicely, but instructions were worthless. Customer service was worthless. And you need a special spring compressor to compress the rear coil. The standard ones you rent inner and outer from your local parts joint won't work. It won't compress the rear enough (worked fine on the front). Also the disks inside the coil allow you to lower the vehicle by removing 1 for each height adjustment. This confused the hell out of us until we called worthless customer service. Not sure why anyone would lower the rear of a GL? Anyway here's the correct spring compressor for the rear Suncore airmatic to coil kit: You'll also need to take it to a shop to disable the airmatic alert. But for $500 for parts I couldn't complain. The Strut Masters was significantly more expensive and I believe comes with a computer trick. The Suncore version also doesn't support Active Dampening Suspension, so if yours has that...it won't work.
06-18-2020, 06:46 AM
#2
Member
My backyard mechanic told me the reason there's an EXCESSIVE amount of play in my steering wheel when making turns, and it's failure to return to center after making a turn (example U-turn) is related to a failed bushing to the point where it's pretty much metal on metal. I'm trying to find some instructions on replacing the bushing. I have the part ($14 for 4 bushings two on each front side). But my mechanic was wondering if the rack and pinion had to be dropped or not. I found a thread that lightly touched on the subject but just not enough detail.
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lexnoir (06-18-2020)
06-22-2020, 10:26 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just wanted to say thank you again for your help. He was able to replace the bushing and found your information valuable. He still indicates he had to remove a tie rod (or maybe it was a control arm) I can't recall. Basically according to him he had to do a bit more than what you indicated but definitely not as bad as he initially suspected.
The bad news is there was some seepage from the rack and pinion before replacing the bushing now there's more of a drip. He's hoping it's a hose and not the rack and pinion but this truck has over 200K we're not going to make a big deal out of it. We'll keep an eye and see if it gets to the point where I need to address it. He's my best friend (the backyard mechanic) so I told him I'll give him a break for now and drive it as-is and if the leak becomes a problem he can try again. He's already performed:
Tune-up (spark plugs and air filters)
Airmatic to coil conversion (all 4 wheels) <-- Front were easy. Back not so much.
Rack and pinion bushings
Do you know of an easy way to disable the airmatic alert since I've converted them to coils? Or do I need a service center to hook up the STAR tool?
My truck was doing some sort of shudder when cold and shifting between the first two gears it seemed. I immediately though tranny. But he stated he had other clients who had that issue and it was simply the spark plugs. I'm praying that's the issue. He said the spark plugs were in really bad shape. But we won't know until he gets the last rear shock in (the spring compressor broke after one use, and because it's proprietary to some extent I had to order another and wait 2 prime days)!
My goal was to get the truck feeling stable in turns (bad bushings). It felt very sloppy and the steering wheel required excessive turning before the wheels seemed to actually turn. Steering wheel also failed to return to center after making a turn. You had to manually turn it back to go straight versus the wheel sort of turning itself back. And finally the shuddering felt at low speed shifts.
The bad news is there was some seepage from the rack and pinion before replacing the bushing now there's more of a drip. He's hoping it's a hose and not the rack and pinion but this truck has over 200K we're not going to make a big deal out of it. We'll keep an eye and see if it gets to the point where I need to address it. He's my best friend (the backyard mechanic) so I told him I'll give him a break for now and drive it as-is and if the leak becomes a problem he can try again. He's already performed:
Tune-up (spark plugs and air filters)
Airmatic to coil conversion (all 4 wheels) <-- Front were easy. Back not so much.
Rack and pinion bushings
Do you know of an easy way to disable the airmatic alert since I've converted them to coils? Or do I need a service center to hook up the STAR tool?
My truck was doing some sort of shudder when cold and shifting between the first two gears it seemed. I immediately though tranny. But he stated he had other clients who had that issue and it was simply the spark plugs. I'm praying that's the issue. He said the spark plugs were in really bad shape. But we won't know until he gets the last rear shock in (the spring compressor broke after one use, and because it's proprietary to some extent I had to order another and wait 2 prime days)!
My goal was to get the truck feeling stable in turns (bad bushings). It felt very sloppy and the steering wheel required excessive turning before the wheels seemed to actually turn. Steering wheel also failed to return to center after making a turn. You had to manually turn it back to go straight versus the wheel sort of turning itself back. And finally the shuddering felt at low speed shifts.
06-22-2020, 01:06 PM
#5
Member
Just wanted to say thank you again for your help. He was able to replace the bushing and found your information valuable. He still indicates he had to remove a tie rod (or maybe it was a control arm) I can't recall. Basically according to him he had to do a bit more than what you indicated but definitely not as bad as he initially suspected.
The bad news is there was some seepage from the rack and pinion before replacing the bushing now there's more of a drip. He's hoping it's a hose and not the rack and pinion but this truck has over 200K we're not going to make a big deal out of it. We'll keep an eye and see if it gets to the point where I need to address it. He's my best friend (the backyard mechanic) so I told him I'll give him a break for now and drive it as-is and if the leak becomes a problem he can try again. He's already performed:
Do you know of an easy way to disable the airmatic alert since I've converted them to coils? Or do I need a service center to hook up the STAR tool?
The bad news is there was some seepage from the rack and pinion before replacing the bushing now there's more of a drip. He's hoping it's a hose and not the rack and pinion but this truck has over 200K we're not going to make a big deal out of it. We'll keep an eye and see if it gets to the point where I need to address it. He's my best friend (the backyard mechanic) so I told him I'll give him a break for now and drive it as-is and if the leak becomes a problem he can try again. He's already performed:
Do you know of an easy way to disable the airmatic alert since I've converted them to coils? Or do I need a service center to hook up the STAR tool?
Any seepage under a diesel should be looked upon as a cheap form of therapy (Rorschach Test)
. Reverse a bit, jump out and look on the floor: what do you see in the fluids on the floor? How do you feel about it? Can you find your happy place in spite of what you see? (Recites serenity prayer)
I also have the Suncore conversion, thankfully. Can't afford the upkeep of the air shocks. So I also have the Airmatic message on the dash. I haven't looked to deeply into it, but I did see that Strutmaster has a module they "allow" you to buy only if they do your conversion. If I didn't have my CEL on 99% of the time, I would be bothered by the Airmatic Warning, but that message now takes a back seat to all the other challenges I'm trying to solve for.
06-22-2020, 01:43 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ha ha! You lost me on the Diesel part...maybe it went over my head? I have a standard GL 450. By the way I'm in MD, I see you're in NOVA. I'm not too far, used to work out there. I don't have a CEL so any lights on the dash trigger my OCD! I'm told my local MB shop (not a real MB dealer) can clear it out with their tool. I might take them up on that.
How many miles on your BlueTec? And it seems to be those are more problematic than the standard GL? I don't have hard proof just what I seem to come across on forums so I could be completely wrong.
How many miles on your BlueTec? And it seems to be those are more problematic than the standard GL? I don't have hard proof just what I seem to come across on forums so I could be completely wrong.
06-23-2020, 04:39 AM
#7
Member
155K miles. I have to agree the Emission Systems on the diesels are problematic. My truck would be perfect if not for that. I can understand why deletes are so popular. Everyone has a breaking point and while some break and dump the truck, others break bad and find a shop to delete all the problematic technologies. Absent that mess they can be reliable as a brick and last ages.
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06-27-2020, 07:33 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update
Bushings replace. Airmatic to coil conversion done.
Truck is stable. I now have confidence in the truck to take exits and steer out of a sticky situation.
Wheel still does not return to center. Any suggestions? To recap when you make a u-turn you turn your wheel all the way when you let it go it should spin back to center. My GL required me to undo that turn by spinning it back.
Still getting the shuddering when shifting from first 2-3 gears. Spark plus were horrendous and were replaced along with air filters but that didn't change anything. Next steps tyranny flush and filter change. Any ideas?
Truck is stable. I now have confidence in the truck to take exits and steer out of a sticky situation.
Wheel still does not return to center. Any suggestions? To recap when you make a u-turn you turn your wheel all the way when you let it go it should spin back to center. My GL required me to undo that turn by spinning it back.
Still getting the shuddering when shifting from first 2-3 gears. Spark plus were horrendous and were replaced along with air filters but that didn't change anything. Next steps tyranny flush and filter change. Any ideas?
