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I have a 2012 GL 350 that died on the highway this week. Engine cut out, electronics were working. Had it towed to MB of Hunt Valley, MD. I was informed that the engine would not manually start and that they would not be able to identify what happened without taking the entire engine apart. Since the engine is not serviceable I was told that it made no sense anyway to take it apart. Most likely it is a blown rod. I was quoted a used engine for 15K and 4.5K to install. Obviously this makes no sense as the car isn't worth that amount. I'm planning on getting another opinion about the problem from another shop just to be sure. Before I do, has anyone ever swapped out an engine in a GL 350? If so, what were the costs? Should I just move on and consider this a very expensive lesson? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
I would drop in a 450/550 engine, the associated wiring harness, and ECU. Either that or look for a used diesel engine. Finding used OM642 engines in running condition can be difficult but there are some long blocks available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2020-F...wAAOSwzCRclVnh
Welcome to the bluetec seized engine club where thousands are members. Sell the GL for whatever you can, maybe ask $1000, one of the technicians at the dealership may buy it. You might get a little more on trade. Never, ever, buy another diesel Mercedes. Time to go car shopping. If you want to stick with the brand consider a 2012-2019 GLE 350 (166 chassis) GASOLINE powered. Stay away from the V8, and buy a 2wd unless you really need 4matic.
Sell the GL for whatever you can, maybe ask $1000, one of the technicians at the dealership may buy it. You might get a little more on trade. Never, ever, buy another diesel Mercedes.
Probably best advice here.
There are more engines on Ebay but this is another good example. https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-12-Merce...wAAOSwOdZfA8NY The engine failure will probably cost you a minimum of $9k to $12k with labor unless you DIY.
Thanks @BlownV8 & @E55Greasemonkey . Really appreciate the advice, even if it isn't the best of news. This is painful. I did a ton of research before I bought this car, learned all about the Timing Chain and other issues but didn't read anything about seized engines. I would have stayed away if I knew that was a common problem. Ugh. Thanks again.
Sorry to hear that. Even with due diligence this engine is a piece of junk.
Cut and run on your diesel - if you like the platform, ‘08 + gasser will be more reliable and enjoyable than your last. 450 or 550 can be had for $10-15k, maintenance histories drive higher prices but the experience is that these cars are very hard to move right now, so negotiate sharply.
Thanks @BlownV8 & @E55Greasemonkey . Really appreciate the advice, even if it isn't the best of news. This is painful. I did a ton of research before I bought this car, learned all about the Timing Chain and other issues but didn't read anything about seized engines. I would have stayed away if I knew that was a common problem. Ugh. Thanks again.
I've posted links to the blown OM642's before. I'm guessing you didn't research this board? The GL450 will run regular unleaded just fine and is much, much, cheaper to operate when you factor regular unleaded and the OM642's maintenance neediness into the equation. The gasser will pretty much just need synthetic oil and fleece filter changes every 10k miles and plugs every 100k - 150k miles. If you do have a bad engine, there are plenty of reliable ones out there on the cheap. My 450 has been one of if not the most reliable MB I've ever owned.
Thanks @BlownV8 & @E55Greasemonkey . Really appreciate the advice, even if it isn't the best of news. This is painful. I did a ton of research before I bought this car, learned all about the Timing Chain and other issues but didn't read anything about seized engines. I would have stayed away if I knew that was a common problem. Ugh. Thanks again.
Seized bluetecs are usually due to one of two reasons. 1) Wrong oil type used. If you aren't using genuine MB oil spec'd for the diesel, you're at risk. 2) Soon after oil cooler seal replacement, dirt from disassembly falls into the oil passage directly to the crank and rod bearings, damaging them and leading to seized bearings.
Seized bluetecs are usually due to one of two reasons. 1) Wrong oil type used. If you aren't using genuine MB oil spec'd for the diesel, you're at risk. 2) Soon after oil cooler seal replacement, dirt from disassembly falls into the oil passage directly to the crank and rod bearings, damaging them and leading to seized bearings.
Great point never thought about dirt from disassembly. I have heard good to change the oil cooler for other reasons. But this seems to be the best reason.
In addition to what was stated above, the low oil light can be faulty and not read a low oil event and the engine can seize. The recommended oil change intervals are too long and can cause issues. Then there are timing chain and tensioner failures that have been known to occur every 100k miles or less on some vehicles.
has anyone ever swapped out an engine in a GL 350? If so, what were the costs? Should I just move on and consider this a very expensive lesson? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
I too have a 2012 GL350 that seized on the highway on a return from vacation. Truck shuttered and shut down. Vehicle would not start. I thought my wife had run out of gas (she took the first leg and I was sleeping, we left at 4am). I went to get diesel (took about 45-minutes) and truck started back up. Got off at the next stop to fill up (I believe truck has at least 1/4 tank), check oil again, etc. Drove about another 15-minutes and died again. Towed to Mercedes dealer about 1.5 hours away. Tow driver called me over and showed me fresh oil pools on his flatbed.
Things the dealer did and found:
- compression check and all were low except cyl3
- found oil coming from front main seal
- crank shaft main and connecting rod bearings worn
- boroscope of cylinder walls showed no damage
- engine was in correct timing
- bits of plastic and metal flakes in oil pan
- oil cooler and turbo leaking oil (both were replaced 6-months prior)
Shop foreman couldn't explain why any of the above happened.
Long story short, a brand new crate engine from Germany was installed in the vehicle under CPO warranty.
Best of luck!
Last edited by 91stealthes; 07-27-2020 at 01:03 PM.
I too have a 2012 GL350 that seized on the highway on a return from vacation. Truck shuttered and shut down. Vehicle would not start. I thought my wife had run out of gas (she took the first leg and I was sleeping, we left at 4am). I went to get diesel (took about 45-minutes) and truck started back up. Got off at the next stop to fill up (I believe truck has at least 1/4 tank), check oil again, etc. Drove about another 15-minutes and died again. Towed to Mercedes dealer about 1.5 hours away. Tow driver called me over and showed me fresh oil pools on his flatbed.
Things the dealer did and found:
- compression check and all were low except cyl3
- found oil coming from front main seal
- crank shaft main and connecting rod bearings worn
- boroscope of cylinder walls showed no damage
- engine was in correct timing
- bits of plastic and metal flakes in oil pan
- oil cooler and turbo leaking oil (both were replaced 6-months prior)
Shop foreman couldn't explain why any of the above happened.
Long story short, a brand new crate engine from Germany was installed in the vehicle under CPO warranty.
Glad you had the warranty. I've always come out on the good side with CPO or ELW MB warranty. MB should have given everyone with the OM642 a 5 year extended warranty.
thats why I change the oil at 3500 miles and use AMSOIL or MOTUL - Everybody said I'm a crack head, wasting money etc .. I can feel a difference even at 3500 miles, oil starts getting gunked up I've to use flush to change the oil - and Diesel purge every tank or every other tank - These are the two weak points of this motor (Injection system and oil circulation) - This time I also added hotshots FR3 friction modifier ... things you gotta do to keep diesel happy
thats why I change the oil at 3500 miles and use AMSOIL or MOTUL - Everybody said I'm a crack head, wasting money etc .. I can feel a difference even at 3500 miles, oil starts getting gunked up I've to use flush to change the oil - and Diesel purge every tank or every other tank - These are the two weak points of this motor (Injection system and oil circulation) - This time I also added hotshots FR3 friction modifier ... things you gotta do to keep diesel happy
Frequent oil changes really is cheap insurance. Hot Shots FR3 is good, so is their stiction eleminator (for the turbo bushings). Diesel Purge is good stuff, but I believe its made for occasional use. I would suggest Howes in every other tank for lubrication.
yup, but at least I got a brand new crate engine (with a 5-year warranty through Mercedes) under warranty and wasn't left out to dry.
Oh, and the truck had just over 70k at catastrophic failure.
Did you really get a 5 yr warranty? I had the engine sieze and they replaced with a brand new engine (under CPO) but then they said it was a 2 yr warranty and not 5, I also had the engine sieze again and now they say am out of warranty.
Is there a way to find out a brand new engine has a 2 yr or a 5 yr warranty?
Appreciate your help.
That would be evident in the work order / paperwork they gave you when they swapped the motor out. If you don’t have it the dealer should be able to print it out or at least call up the maintenance done via the Vehicle Master Inquity (VMI).
Did you really get a 5 yr warranty? I had the engine sieze and they replaced with a brand new engine (under CPO) but then they said it was a 2 yr warranty and not 5, I also had the engine sieze again and now they say am out of warranty.
Is there a way to find out a brand new engine has a 2 yr or a 5 yr warranty?
Appreciate your help.
Sorry, I lied. I was informed it was a 5-year warranty, but it looks like it is 4-year/50,000 mile warranty.
where is the engine replacement book they gave you? Have you driven more than 50,000 miles? Did you do the first oil change as required?
Did you get a new crate engine? Potentially you received a rebuilt that has a shorter warranty.
Here is the info from my engine warranty booklet that was provided with the new crate engine:
Sorry, I lied. I was informed it was a 5-year warranty, but it looks like it is 4-year/50,000 mile warranty.
where is the engine replacement book they gave you? Have you driven more than 50,000 miles? Did you do the first oil change as required?
Did you get a new crate engine? Potentially you received a rebuilt that has a shorter warranty.
Here is the info from my engine warranty booklet that was provided with the new crate engine:
Yes, I got the book, everything was done with the dealership, never have I ever taken the car anywhere else. But the dealership now refuses to replace saying the engine is out of warranty. Post the engine replacement there were around 20,000 miles that were on the engine.
Sorry, I lied. I was informed it was a 5-year warranty, but it looks like it is 4-year/50,000 mile warranty.
where is the engine replacement book they gave you? Have you driven more than 50,000 miles? Did you do the first oil change as required?
Did you get a new crate engine? Potentially you received a rebuilt that has a shorter warranty.
Here is the info from my engine warranty booklet that was provided with the new crate engine:
Yes, I got the book(need to find it now), and everything was done with the dealership, never have I ever taken the car anywhere else. But the dealership now refuses to replace saying the engine is out of warranty. Post the engine replacement there were around 20,000 miles that were on the engine.
07-25-2020, 02:23 AM
