zerochills

2011 GL350

Drove car on road trip all weekend, no issue. Drove about 60 miles today, no issue. Stopped at car wash and started having issues. Not sure if related or coincidence... when I pulled in to wash, thought I noticed soft brake pedal but didn't think much of it.

Now when I push on brake pedal it begins to apply brake but then gets soft and goes to floor. Very slowly slows car. Fluid looked okay. Got a yellow triangle with exclamation mark on dash and message saying ESP inoperable. Havent been able to hook scanner up since its at home.

anyone ever experience anything similar??.

zerochills

Spent some time diagnosing and pushing fluid until I found signs of a leak. Looks like there must be a brake line failure on drivers side about midway back behind belly plastic panels. Havent got plastic covers off yet, anything special here or just a brake line replacement?

Thx

eric_in_sd

Egad! You mean you see brake fluid dripping from a leak somewhere?
In the solid lines?

wtf

This would be a new one on me. I wonder if it rusted or was damaged.

I don't know of anything unusual about the routing of the solid lines, because I've never heard of this on these trucks. I'd put a lot of effort into confirming exactly where the leak is before tearing too much apart.

Yup497

I agree with Eric. I've never seen a break line leak out of the x164. However, nothing surprises me.

OP, make certain you're not confusing brake fluid for leaking power steering fluid. If I had to guess, its possibly the 10 cent O-ring that's leaking but I don't know specifics.

lkchris

The only reason pedal ever goes to floor is brake fluid leak in system ... brake lines or master or slave cylinder (caliper).

Dont be distracted by irrelevant posts about power steering.

Metal line replacement can be complicated, as it’s not certain replacement lines are available pre bent to required shape. Haven’t researched 164, but for 221 all that’s available is straight pieces to be bent to shape locally. In any event, unless you’re doing this at home, this is flat bedding the vehicle to repair facility. Read manual regarding towing ... which is likely prohibited.

Yup497

Irrelevant always. Doucher.

zerochills

Found one of the hard lines had rusted and failed. Spliced in a 8" piece to get me home but want to repair correctly for piece of mind. In all, not very much rust anywhere under the vehicle. Both hard lines had a bit of rust in about a 20" section along the frame rail just in front of rear wheel. All other parts of hard line looked good in both directions.

Reached out to different dealers for complete hard line replacement part, neither were helpful. Can not locate online..

Best course of action???

Max Blast

I’d check out brake specific shops - hardline is hardline, and they ought to be able to bend and splice in a section, and bleed the system.

Frankly, a little disappointed and surprised the dealer is throwing up their hands.

I live in a No-rust state do there isn’t a big market or knowledge base outside of the custom car scene, but if you live in the rust belt; brake line repair is (or used to be) big business.

eric_in_sd

I'm with Max on this one. A brake shop should be able to fabricate a new line pretty easily. They just have to have the metric fittings for the tube ends.

You probably could also live with a repair spliced in. I don't think the brake system has terribly high pressures.