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I just received the compressor to replace my failing automatic compressor. I am questioning if it is a return item, as the internal box is damaged, the instructions were crumpled under the compressor, there was packing paper on top of the compressor.
Pardon my ignorance, but my reason for posting is that I am unsure if this is correct and would validate my concern of my receiving a returned item. The air outlet seems to have a cut line already inserted in it. The line is flush with the nut, none is sticking out. I’ve never installed on of these, so maybe it’s normal, but wanted the input of others. Is this normal?
I honestly don’t care if it was a return if it functions, but wanted others opinions if this is normal.
Will this still work with the air outlet connection hose the way it is? I do not want to rip out the old one and be stuck without putting the new one in.
Air outlet with line already in it? Am I mistaken? Town packing paper was on top of the compressor; I don’t believe this is normal, especially with the box being damaged from the compressor nub. Instructions crumpled under compressor
thanks!
Last edited by 91stealthes; Aug 12, 2021 at 11:10 AM.
Although this compressor looks like new, I thing it is a refurbished one, as it has this part of a line inserted on the air outlet, normally it comes closed with a plastic or rubber cover.
The line in the outlet could be a broken off protector.
can you pull it out easily? Then it’s a protector.
if it’s jammed in there it’s a line that someone snipped off which will require you to disassemble the valve to get the remnant out - which I believe iirc voids the warranty.
Protector - use as is
Line - disassemble outlet nut to get the line out. Save the little brass annular locking cups!
The line in the outlet could be a broken off protector.
can you pull it out easily? Then it’s a protector.
if it’s jammed in there it’s a line that someone snipped off which will require you to disassemble the valve to get the remnant out - which I believe iirc voids the warranty.
Protector - use as is
Line - disassemble outlet nut to get the line out. Save the little brass annular locking cups!
thank you Mach and Max.
I was able to pull out the line with needle nose pliers. I searched the box and I did not see any broken bits. Is this the normal protector or a piece of line. Should I try to install this one or ask for a replacement?
Thanks. In looking further into the compressor. Looks like it was manufactured October 30, 2019. I wouldn't think a 2019 unit would stay on the shelf that long.
Not related to this compressor, but my old one looks to have split the housing. I can feel the air expelling and when it turns off, You can see the air escaping the housing.
also found the air filter line was totally broken and ripped off.
I think you can install as it seems that the cap covering the air outlet is broken. Maybe during the compressor shipping someone didn't take care.
I recall the air line outlet being plugged by a dummy line. Pretty sure that's what's broken off.
The compressors are pretty sturdy and heavy. I haven't unboxed one that hadn't bounced around inside the package a bit.
Stay on top of the system and the compressor will last a nice long time. However, they have a finite lifetime. Put it to task blowing air through a bag leak and it will be worn out quickly.
This doesn't seem correct to me, but had to ask because I'm sure it is possible. Is there a possibility that the cracked compressor was releasing air from only the rear bags? Doubtful, right, that'd be a bad block?
I thought the compressor was going (extremely loud) and got the "cooling down" message twice. I thought it went bad because my rear bags were leaking. The rear would squat overnight unless it was in raised mode. It would squat overnight if at normal ride height, every time.
It has now been two nights since I replaced the compressor (can't get on my friends lift until next week) and the rear is still sitting at normal height. And the compressor isn't running when stopping. Thoughts?
This doesn't seem correct to me, but had to ask because I'm sure it is possible. Is there a possibility that the cracked compressor was releasing air from only the rear bags? Doubtful, right, that'd be a bad block?
I thought the compressor was going (extremely loud) and got the "cooling down" message twice. I thought it went bad because my rear bags were leaking. The rear would squat overnight unless it was in raised mode. It would squat overnight if at normal ride height, every time.
It has now been two nights since I replaced the compressor (can't get on my friends lift until next week) and the rear is still sitting at normal height. And the compressor isn't running when stopping. Thoughts?
Use soapy water to find leaks on the bags. It's hard to say why you are not seeing deflation at normal ride height now, where you were earlier. Your settling is symptomatic of leaky bags - they leak at the fold, and when raised the fold is at a different location - so the cracks are squeezed shut in the now straight section.
The pump cannot cause bag deflation. It's difficult to say why your deflation occurred. However, leaky bags quickly lead to pump, and if in a humid environment, valve block, failure.
If you have a leaky valve block, your pump will soon fail, because the leaks make the pump work harder. The pump has a finite lifetime, and leaks simply cut into that life.
This doesn't seem correct to me, but had to ask because I'm sure it is possible. Is there a possibility that the cracked compressor was releasing air from only the rear bags? Doubtful, right, that'd be a bad block?
I thought the compressor was going (extremely loud) and got the "cooling down" message twice. I thought it went bad because my rear bags were leaking. The rear would squat overnight unless it was in raised mode. It would squat overnight if at normal ride height, every time.
It has now been two nights since I replaced the compressor (can't get on my friends lift until next week) and the rear is still sitting at normal height. And the compressor isn't running when stopping. Thoughts?
You do not need a lift to replace any of these bags - just a jack and some stands.
the compressor comes out if you turn the wheels all the way to the right and take the inner fender liner out.
Use soapy water to find leaks on the bags. It's hard to say why you are not seeing deflation at normal ride height now, where you were earlier. Your settling is symptomatic of leaky bags - they leak at the fold, and when raised the fold is at a different location - so the cracks are squeezed shut in the now straight section.
The pump cannot cause bag deflation. It's difficult to say why your deflation occurred. However, leaky bags quickly lead to pump, and if in a humid environment, valve block, failure.
If you have a leaky valve block, your pump will soon fail, because the leaks make the pump work harder. The pump has a finite lifetime, and leaks simply cut into that life.
Thanks. I do have 2 rear Bilstein bags (which have limited lifetime warranty now) I was going to throw on. Shall I wait? Truck goes in for 80k service in a few weeks. Worth having Mercedes do an overall airmatic check with Star?
Thanks. I do have 2 rear Bilstein bags (which have limited lifetime warranty now) I was going to throw on. Shall I wait? Truck goes in for 80k service in a few weeks. Worth having Mercedes do an overall airmatic check with Star?
Good job getting the Bilsteins. They appear to be higher quality than the Arnott; at least they are rated to higher pressure. I would just put them on, pronto, probably doing the soapy water test just to confirm the bags are leaking. Raise the suspension and squirt the soapy water all around; you'll see stoner spit emerging at leaks. At 80k miles, you are replacing the original? Do it quickly, because you are probably overworking the pump every time you drive. Remember it has a finite lifetime, and you are consuming that lifetime unnecessarily.
The consensus seems to be Bilstein rear (mostly because loading the rear can necessitate very high pressures in the rear bags), Arnott front (because you're getting rebuilt shock absorbers each time you replace for $free), AMK pump (not Arnott), and Lord only knows which valve block. Fortunately the latter rarely seems to fail, especially if you don't start blowing moisture through it, like if you have a leaky bag. It may or may not be a good idea, but I squirted some silicone oil in the fittings on top of the valve block when I was in there last.
I would not bother getting any further analysis. I would, however, strongly recommend getting a 2-way analysis tool like Autel's $800 model. There are a bunch of tools and you will go nuts figuring out the difference, but it's a great thing to have. With it you can send instructions to each spring corner, that sort of thing. Highly recommended. Short of that, get an Icarsoft MBII, which will let you query most everything but won't let you send instructions and reset values.
You seem like the adventurous sort, and by now you are figuring out that the economical way to get the good value from out-of-warranty MB trucks is to do absolutely as much as you can yourself - meaning that your 80k service is almost certainly a waste of cash. Spend that money on tools.
P.S. One thing you really need to be staying on top of is automatic transmission fluid changes. They should be done every 30k miles, meaning you probably are due.
You do not need a lift to replace any of these bags - just a jack and some stands.
the compressor comes out if you turn the wheels all the way to the right and take the inner fender liner out.
Yes, already did the compressor without even removing the wheel. Just removed the fender liner and lower shield.
Agreed that I don’t need a lift, but why not make my life easier?
Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
Good job getting the Bilsteins. They appear to be higher quality than the Arnott; at least they are rated to higher pressure. I would just put them on, pronto, probably doing the soapy water test just to confirm the bags are leaking. Raise the suspension and squirt the soapy water all around; you'll see stoner spit emerging at leaks. At 80k miles, you are replacing the original? Do it quickly, because you are probably overworking the pump every time you drive. Remember it has a finite lifetime, and you are consuming that lifetime unnecessarily.
The consensus seems to be Bilstein rear (mostly because loading the rear can necessitate very high pressures in the rear bags), Arnott front (because you're getting rebuilt shock absorbers each time you replace for $free), AMK pump (not Arnott), and Lord only knows which valve block. Fortunately the latter rarely seems to fail, especially if you don't start blowing moisture through it, like if you have a leaky bag. It may or may not be a good idea, but I squirted some silicone oil in the fittings on top of the valve block when I was in there last.
I would not bother getting any further analysis. I would, however, strongly recommend getting a 2-way analysis tool like Autel's $800 model. There are a bunch of tools and you will go nuts figuring out the difference, but it's a great thing to have. With it you can send instructions to each spring corner, that sort of thing. Highly recommended. Short of that, get an Icarsoft MBII, which will let you query most everything but won't let you send instructions and reset values.
You seem like the adventurous sort, and by now you are figuring out that the economical way to get the good value from out-of-warranty MB trucks is to do absolutely as much as you can yourself - meaning that your 80k service is almost certainly a waste of cash. Spend that money on tools.
yes, no point skimping...bought the AMK pump and Bilstein bags. I don’t like that the arnotts have lower max pressure and tow here and there. Definitely worth the extra money for the AMK pump and Bilsteins (wonder if the lifetime warranty will work as well as people say Arnott does) Front struts/bags were replace within the last 20k miles under warranty. Rear shocks, tie rods, bushings were replaced within the last 10k miles.
Ive been looking to purchase a reader being I’m now fully out of warranty, with the exception of a little over 2 years left on the engine.
80k is still left in my PPM, so it’s already paid for.
Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
P.S. One thing you really need to be staying on top of is automatic transmission fluid changes. They should be done every 30k miles, meaning you probably are due.
Yes, transmission fluid was changed 2 times in the last ~10k miles. Once at engine replacement and once at torque converter replacement. I’m going to see if the dealer would maybe do front/rear diff and transfer case instead during my 80k service opposed to changing the transmission fluid again.
Last edited by 91stealthes; Aug 16, 2021 at 10:03 PM.
Regarding Bilstein and the warranty: Mailing the burst bag back to them wouldn't be a big deal. Mailing a complete strut, no thanks. Hence favoring Arnott for the struts. That and they don't have the loading issues that the rear bags potentially can.
It’s not really easier changing rear bags on a lift. Working height on a jack favors a small roller chair or just haunching over like I did for the 20 minutes it took me. 5 minutes fumble****n for tools and 5 minutes trying to loosen the 10mm air nut. 10’mijutes of actual value add.
absolutely no reason to wait for MB to tell you what you already know.
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