Right now I am running into some really tricky issues:

• Engine died while on a short drive (about 5-6km) at slow speed + all dash lights went on, no power steering, no power brakes. An error message comes up on the dash: run flat indicator inoperative
• Couldn’t restart right away. Just nothing happens when I push the start button. But after 2-3 minutes the car starts without any issue. Also, when the car is cold, it always starts right away without any hesitation. When it is warm, also starts well. Only time it does not start right away is, when the engine died while driving.
• It happened once about 1.5 weeks ago and I brought it to a independent workshop where I live: They couldn’t detect any error codes in the error memory. They cleaned the throttle body - but it did not help.
• After that I drove about 600km without any issue.
• Then, I did 2 short drives (10km) and on both the engine died exactly in the same way as described above. When it died the second time, I briefly heard a little rattle and the front right.
• After that I continued driving (after I had restarted 3-5 minutes later) and reached my destination 2-3km later. When I switched the car off I heard that something was still running in the engine compartment at the front right. I assume this was the airmatic compressor.
• When I restarted the car I roughly drove 10km home. On the way I got a Airmatic error message on my dash. The car wouldn’t lift any more (also I could not hear the compressor starting any more when I tried to lift the car). Then the car also started to settle down.

At this point I towed it to the dealership. They tried to diagnose at assumed the ignition switch is faulty and the compressor is dead. Also, the car would not start again at all (no matter how long they waited) - unfortunately before they could finish all diagnostics. Right now I am waiting for the ignition switch to so that the dealership can continue with their diagnostics.

What I am wondering is:
How can the ignition switch (btw it's a push button) get faulty so suddenly?
Especially since I never had start problems when car was warm or cold (only exception: The 3 times when the engine shut off while driving).

The other thing is: How can this be related to the airmatic?
I had no issues at all. And then, out of nothing the compressor clearly started to cause issues (runnig without interuption even when engine and ignition where fully switched off) after the engine shut off the 3rd time. I do not believe in a random coincidence.

Maybe the ignition switch was also the cause for all of this....but how?
Does anybody have any thoughts on this?

Cheers
Seppone

Two separate issues, but I can’t rule out that electrical issues may have toasted your compressor.

1. Car dying: have you ruled out crankshaft position sensor? Your symptoms do indicate the ignition switch - there’s a switch behind the keyless go button that has mechanical components.

2. Fried compressor: something told your airmatic system to run until the compressor failed completely. Which is usually related to a leak in the system. See if you can find a leak somewhere, usually the rear bags go first.

Right now, I am focussing on the engine issue and told the dealership to figure that out before they deal with the compressor. Just want to avoid the they install a new compressor and fry it right away because they didn't figure out the cause correctly...

So, the dealership said the ignition switch was broken. They ordered a new ignition switch and installed it. Now they say: The car still does not start. The key does not work any more. They want my second key to try. Okay, I have send it to them and wait for the next update.
But WTF?
I am pretty sure the ignition switch wasn't the problem. Why would my key - which never made any problems - suddenly not work with a new ignition switch?
But they still insist the ignition switch was faulty.

If they replaced the ignition switch and charged you for it, you could always ask for the old parts to be returned to you. Then you'll have a spare ignition switch that can be sold on eBay to recoup some costs.

This, of course, applies to any part the mechanic says needs replacing. Tell them that you would like the old parts returned to you when you authorize the work.

Doesn't help much. Ignition switch has to be programmed to the VIN which only dealers do and they do not resell used parts.

Today they told me, the second key works with the new ignition switch (the first one doesn't - according to them it suddenly broke). Also, they found that the front fuse boy is faulty and needs replacement.
What I question myself:
How probable is it that:
a) the front fuse box
b) the ignition switch
c) the key
break all at the same time? Sounds totally unplausible to me.
Any professional opinions?

I actually believe:
The fuse box was the cause of the issue (also explains engine problems and airmatic issues at the same time). But they broke the key, changed the ignition switch without reason (just trial and error) and now want me to pay for all of it. Btw: I even gave them the idea about the fuse box...

Update:
After they changed the ignition switch and the fuse box car is running again. Problem seems solved.
But my first key does not work anymore. They say it just died. How probable is it that ignition switch, key (it was push button so you don't actually insert the key in the lock) and fusebox all die randomly at the same time??

I still have a second key, but it does not work with push button. New key would be Canadian $ 1,500.