Rock Auto currently has three, with a range in prices from $140 (CSF) to $170 (Nissen) to $240 (APDI/PRO).

The cheap one has glass reinforced plastic while the expensive one has plastic reinforced with glass.

I am inclined to not skimp on such a mission critical component, but was curious what experience y'all have had with the various brands. I always thought of a radiator as a lifetime component, but plastic and aluminum ... I guess not.

 

The terms they used are the same thing - just worded differently. However, Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP) is the proper term... AKA fiberglass. FRP ends doesn't worry me one bit. Generally radiators can last a bit longer - but 15 years isn't all that bad, either.

I'm not familiar with the $140/$240 ones - have only heard of Nissens. Never really heard anything bad, though. However... go to FCP - see if they have a Behr unit. Anything you get there also has a lifetime warranty.

 

One of them is a "glass-fiber plastic composite". I guess you're going to try to tell me that's the same thing as well!

Good tip on FCP Euro. I always forget about those guys.

The pain about the radiator is you can't tell where exactly it is leaking. Any drips run along the front rail, or at least that is the impression I am getting.

 

FCP Euro has the Mahle/Behr:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-2515000303

About the same price as the ADPI. Seems like an easy choice.

The radiator might not even be leaking. Hard to tell with how it is recessed.

 

did you replace your radiator? how hard is it? I hope there is no need to remove the AC condensor together with the radiator (shown in one youtube video).

 

Yes, I did replace the radiator. It was not all that difficult of a job. It is tedious, though. You do not need to remove the condensor.

My recommendations:

First, confirm that the radiator is in fact leaking. I mistook Pentosin power steering fluid for coolant, and did not realize the lower heater hose was slowly leaking. Rule out other possible causes. If the coolant has been properly maintained, the only reason to expect the radiator to leak is o-ring failure, which does happen, but generally only manifests when the o-ring is disturbed. The upper radiator hose is notorious for this; the o-ring grows and cannot be reused.

As with similar repairs, there is a lot of "while we're in there". If you have not, replace the radiator hoses, including the bottom heater hose, although that one is fairly easily doable with the radiator in place. Replace the spring type hose clamps with screw drive. The power steering low pressure lines can also be replaced. Mine had begun leaking, which caused the lower heater hose to fail.

I ended up customizing a fair amount of the flange that helps direct air in. I got rid of the entire bottom section, because I couldn't figure out how to get it back in. I also eliminated a few of the bolts that are hidden in weird places. The engineering of the body related work is just weird. I took off the underbody panel that covers the TPMS antenna; there were nine (9) bolts attaching the heat shield to it. This is four more than WIS shows. One bolt never caught the clip nut threads again, I have not checked whether it fell out on its own. Another bolt, I could never figure out where it went. It joined its friends in my M6 bolt bucket. In general, when I work on the GL, parts and fasteners are left over.

 

Thanks a lot for the tips. will need to check where the leak spot is. currently my GL450 loses about 500 ml of coolant for every 1k miles.
screw drive clamps are readily available and easier to work with. however sometimes the spring hose clamps are preferred since it will not get loose.

 

It is probably largely a matter of personal preference. I never had screw type clamps come loose, and they are vastly easier to service in place, especially in cramped quarters.

 

could use some blue locktite on the screws just in case.

 

I really doubt the screw backs out, given that it is under tension from the compressed hose walls. However, that illustrates a potential failure point: The rubber of the hose walls loses elasticity over time. The spring type clamp provides springiness even as the hose stiffens.

I believe the auto manufacturers use spring clamps almost if not entirely as a cost and labor savings measure.

For what it's worth, I forgot entirely to install one hose clamp and was surprised to find it did not leak during idle warmup. So the clamps do less than you might think!

By the way, I recently had to polish down casting seam marks on the radiator inlet plastic. It is infuriating that a supposed high quality (Mahle) radiator, they can't even make the moulds better or polish the plastic. I suggest going over all the fittings before you install a new radiator.

 

This Mahle Behr radiator is no long available at FCPeuro.
the remaining options are
CSF 3457: $146
CSF 3458: $151
Genuine Mercedes : $309

wonder is there is any suggestions/hint about the options. Thanks,

 

Not to shill but auto house AZ now has free shipping for everything under hundred pounds, but over $150

 

FCP euro has free shipping too, and 10% off $400 purchase.

 

In my experience, when FCP Euro does free shipping, they drop ship. So you may wait quite a while.

But in any event, FCP Euro is about the same price as Rock Auto.

It looks like the market for gourmet radiators, e.g. Mahle/Behr, has dried up. Maybe they figured out they just weren't cost competitive. I guess it is not too difficult to make good radiators. My Mahle/Behr experience was not positive; the drain plug o-ring self disassembled (note they now sell replacement drain plugs!) and as I commented elsewhere, I had to polish the inlet to stop a slow leak.

 

a lot of people believe that, but the fact is Oetiker, CLIC, etc., clamps tighten to a known value, whereas who knows with screw type clamps.

The WIS procedure for replacing the fuel filter on OM642 diesels expressly prohibits use of screw type clamps.

i think with ‘merikun iron, it indeed usually is cheapskatery, but with German stuff it’s engineering.

 

In my extensive forums research (merc, bmw, lexus etc), i found the Nissens to be the recommended replacement.
Also, i saw a video yesterday that stated the spring type clamps are necessary for plastic radiators due to thermal expansion as they can expand to apply constant pressure and to never use worm drive clamps as they are fixed and don't self-adjust. I'd prefer worm drive for ease of use but the explanation/demonstration made the disadvantage very clear cut.

 

Well, the stock one is terrible so anyone but OE.

 

Hi,

I'm about to replace my radiator on my W164 with the M273 5.5 lt V8 - same leak and problem as described here. I've bought a new Mahle radiator (being delivered) but will I need to seperately buy seals for transmission lines and or power steering lines as well? I would have thought so. There's also mention of 'O' rings for the radiator hoses. Were they addtional orders as well or do the 'O' rings come with a a new radiator hose? I don't want to rip this thing out only to find I'm short parts. TIA

 

My C350 with M276 looks like the radiator is weeping, so going to fit a Nissens replacement.
The radiator includes a transmission fluid cooler.
I'm thinking I can just replace any lost ATF by refitting the lower transmission cooler hose then filling the cooler with ATF with a syringe before refitting the upper Transmission cooler hose.
Have I got that right ?
Yes I could adjust the level at the transmission sump but that's a lot of extra work.
Thoughts ?

 

Behr is now made in China like all Meyle stuff. Junk.
I had replace a radiator recently on W203. Nissens.
REAL PIA on Kompressor. Had to remove the bumper and intercooler.