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I've seen some related posts and have seen a few videos, but nothing exactly on point. The "best" and most relevant - i.e. pertaining to an X164 - video I saw on YouTube was filmed after the fact. So, I am about to replace both headlight assemblies on my 2011 GL 450. They are beginning to oxidize and are the only things on the vehicle that aren't like new. I've tried a number of restoration kits and hacks in the past and they never completely restore the lens or last very long.
Anyway, here's my questions:
1. Does anyone have or know where to find a video of the headlight assemblies being replaced on an X164?
2. Is it really necessary to remove the bumper, or can it just be loosened? I've read conflicting claims.
3. If you changed your headlight assemblies on an X164, did you encounter any particularly difficult or unexpected things involved with the change?
4. I am planning to use TYC headlight assemblies. I know they are not OEM, nor the "best" available. But I do have a budget to consider. Does anyone have any bad experience with this brand? I've used them to replace my fog light and DRL assemblies and while they clearly weren't as heavy duty as the OEMs, they fit, look and work just like the OEMs. I'm also considering Hella, which, at least in the old days, was the go-to premium lighting brand.
5. Although the assemblies come with bulbs, I plan to replace them with LEDs. Can anyone recommend specific LED bulbs that (a) have a great pattern and brightness (b) did not cause any codes or other compatibility issues (c) do not have/require an external resistor pack (d) did not require any modification or special adapters (that were not provided with the bulbs) and (d) do not use fans for cooling (although this isn't that important)?
Can anyone recommend specific LED bulbs that
(a) have a great pattern and brightness
Many of the ones available for the last five to ten years have emulated the almost point-source nature of the H7 halogen. From the first LEDs I installed in the headlights around 2015 (and caused all sorts of arguments here) the beam pattern with the stock assemblies has been excellent.
Originally Posted by Elbeau
(b) did not cause any codes or other compatibility issues
Easily done, usually with an external resistor pack.
Originally Posted by Elbeau
(c) do not have/require an external resistor pack
Oops, you need that to fool the CAN bus.
Originally Posted by Elbeau
(d) did not require any modification or special adapters (that were not provided with the bulbs) and
The modification is a consequence of Mercedes's headlight assembly. Hella (I think) is the one that caused the adapter rings to be required.
Originally Posted by Elbeau
(d) do not use fans for cooling (although this isn't that important)?
Strongly recommend using a cooling fan. The LED dumps a whopping amount of power into the diode, which all has to be conducted away for bulb life. It is just a fact of life with LEDs; especially the more power you put into them, the more power that has to leave as heat. In the halogen bulb, much of that power leaves as infrared; in the LED, all the excess power is trapped in the diode.
The bumper does not need to come completely off. Once the fasteners are removed, it can be pulled forward a little, which will cause it to drop enough to get the clearance needed. The piece that connects the upper edge of the side of the bumper to the lower edge of the fender is a little strange so pay attention to it when you remove it. It is a U shaped channel that pivots around a pin at the front and has a small bolt at the back to clamp things together.
I'm contractually obligated to point out that replacing the projectors will result in substantially better output than just putting bulbs in the stock projectors, but if you do, I'd recommend Diode Dynamics or Morimoto 2 Strokes rather than random Amazon bulbs.
For the LED bulbs, as said, only go with the Morimoto 2Stroke, Diode Dynamics, or one of several others found on Lightwerkz. They are expensive for a reason.
If you are okay with opening up the headlights, you can purchase just the lens and replace them. Will probably be cheaper and higher quality than an aftermarket headlight set. While you're in there you can also retrofit to proper bi-xenon projectors or a proper LED projector.
For the LED bulbs, as said, only go with the Morimoto 2Stroke, Diode Dynamics, or one of several others found on Lightwerkz. They are expensive for a reason.
If you are okay with opening up the headlights, you can purchase just the lens and replace them. Will probably be cheaper and higher quality than an aftermarket headlight set. While you're in there you can also retrofit to proper bi-xenon projectors or a proper LED projector.
interesting that you mention Lightwerkz. Its website doesn't even provide a Mercedes option in its car list.
interesting that you mention Lightwerkz. Its website doesn't even provide a Mercedes option in its car list.
Ignore that and just look it up by bulb type.
If you want to do a projector retrofit, the original projectors are the Hella E55 type (no relation to the Mercedes E55). You can use the Mini D2S 4.0 E55 adapters or the EvoX-R, which is an adaptation of the E55 projector and uses the same mount points.