2011 GL 440 Stiff Accelerator
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
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Hi,
I'm new to the Mercedes. I just purchased a 2011 GL 450 and it's a beauty with less than 27K miles on it. BUT......it's a 2011. I've had to replace parts on the suspension and now I've noticed that the accelerator feels like there is a rock underneath it when I try to accelerate. It will accelerate when I push down really hard, but it doesn't seem normal. It also has a sound coming out of the tail pipes on the right side that, the only way I can describe it, sounds like helicopter blades hitting the air. The car idles fine and "seems" to be okay in terms of the engine. But, I have no clue what the sound is and why the accelerator is so stiff.
Thanks for your help.
I'm new to the Mercedes. I just purchased a 2011 GL 450 and it's a beauty with less than 27K miles on it. BUT......it's a 2011. I've had to replace parts on the suspension and now I've noticed that the accelerator feels like there is a rock underneath it when I try to accelerate. It will accelerate when I push down really hard, but it doesn't seem normal. It also has a sound coming out of the tail pipes on the right side that, the only way I can describe it, sounds like helicopter blades hitting the air. The car idles fine and "seems" to be okay in terms of the engine. But, I have no clue what the sound is and why the accelerator is so stiff.
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by KLM1957; 05-26-2023 at 11:42 AM. Reason: typo
#2
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2007 GL450
I only dropped into this thread to find out what a GL440 is. Saddened to find out it was just a typo. This is not as retarted as it sounds; overseas there is the 420 and 350 or 370 or something like that.
What's wrong with it being a 2011? They only go bad with age when left outdoors. For a supposed off-road vehicle, they really don't like adverse conditions.
It doesn't make sense you had to change suspension components at 27k miles, unless you live in a smog-saturated area (Mexico City?).
Regarding your puzzles: I have no idea what you're talking about with your complaints. The pedal is stiff? Is there a floor mat jammed under the pedal? There's a funny sound from the exhaust, like the lup lup lup from the beginning of Apocalypse Now? Maybe there is something funky about the exhaust, like the catalytic converter got removed while you were asleep one night. (Double shame if anyone stole my cats; they're hollowed out. All that destruction for nothing, smh.)
Not to strike fear in your heart, but I suspect a "rolled back" (easy to do on the dash display, though the ECU keeps the true mileage) odometer.
Anyway, if you really want help with issues with your vehicle, you need to be a lot more detailed about the symptoms. Think like a doctor, describing the whole patient, not just how their elbow feels.
What's wrong with it being a 2011? They only go bad with age when left outdoors. For a supposed off-road vehicle, they really don't like adverse conditions.
It doesn't make sense you had to change suspension components at 27k miles, unless you live in a smog-saturated area (Mexico City?).
Regarding your puzzles: I have no idea what you're talking about with your complaints. The pedal is stiff? Is there a floor mat jammed under the pedal? There's a funny sound from the exhaust, like the lup lup lup from the beginning of Apocalypse Now? Maybe there is something funky about the exhaust, like the catalytic converter got removed while you were asleep one night. (Double shame if anyone stole my cats; they're hollowed out. All that destruction for nothing, smh.)
Not to strike fear in your heart, but I suspect a "rolled back" (easy to do on the dash display, though the ECU keeps the true mileage) odometer.
Anyway, if you really want help with issues with your vehicle, you need to be a lot more detailed about the symptoms. Think like a doctor, describing the whole patient, not just how their elbow feels.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
There’s no mechanical linkage from the throttle to the throttle body - so it’s likely dirt and grit jamming up the pedal motion. Potentially dangerous as it could also cause a stuck full throttle scenario. Do not drive.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you. I plan to take it into the shop soon for some other suspension repairs. I'll bring this to their attention as well. I was hoping to gain some insight. I'm new to Mercedes ownership and feel like a fish out of water with all of this. Thank you for taking the time to answer.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Stiff... are you maybe referring to the "kick down" feature near the end of the pedal travel? This is a "detent" near the end that when you push past it, it commands a gear change (lower).
Noise... from what you've written, I would look for an air leak in the exhaust system. I'm kinda just making a guess there, though.
Noise... from what you've written, I would look for an air leak in the exhaust system. I'm kinda just making a guess there, though.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Stiff... are you maybe referring to the "kick down" feature near the end of the pedal travel? This is a "detent" near the end that when you push past it, it commands a gear change (lower).
Noise... from what you've written, I would look for an air leak in the exhaust system. I'm kinda just making a guess there, though.
Noise... from what you've written, I would look for an air leak in the exhaust system. I'm kinda just making a guess there, though.
The sound is definitely coming from the tail pipe(s). I noticed it louder on the right rear side. It "seems" to be loudest when I first start the car. And as I stated in the original post, when idling, the car sounds fine. It doesn't miss or jerk or anything like that. It drives very smooth once acceleration has been made
Thank you for your help. I have a good mechanic who I trust. But, I like to know as much as possible so I don't feel so in the dark when I take it in to him.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I only dropped into this thread to find out what a GL440 is. Saddened to find out it was just a typo. This is not as retarted as it sounds; overseas there is the 420 and 350 or 370 or something like that.
What's wrong with it being a 2011? They only go bad with age when left outdoors. For a supposed off-road vehicle, they really don't like adverse conditions.
It doesn't make sense you had to change suspension components at 27k miles, unless you live in a smog-saturated area (Mexico City?).
Regarding your puzzles: I have no idea what you're talking about with your complaints. The pedal is stiff? Is there a floor mat jammed under the pedal? There's a funny sound from the exhaust, like the lup lup lup from the beginning of Apocalypse Now? Maybe there is something funky about the exhaust, like the catalytic converter got removed while you were asleep one night. (Double shame if anyone stole my cats; they're hollowed out. All that destruction for nothing, smh.)
Not to strike fear in your heart, but I suspect a "rolled back" (easy to do on the dash display, though the ECU keeps the true mileage) odometer.
Anyway, if you really want help with issues with your vehicle, you need to be a lot more detailed about the symptoms. Think like a doctor, describing the whole patient, not just how their elbow feels.
What's wrong with it being a 2011? They only go bad with age when left outdoors. For a supposed off-road vehicle, they really don't like adverse conditions.
It doesn't make sense you had to change suspension components at 27k miles, unless you live in a smog-saturated area (Mexico City?).
Regarding your puzzles: I have no idea what you're talking about with your complaints. The pedal is stiff? Is there a floor mat jammed under the pedal? There's a funny sound from the exhaust, like the lup lup lup from the beginning of Apocalypse Now? Maybe there is something funky about the exhaust, like the catalytic converter got removed while you were asleep one night. (Double shame if anyone stole my cats; they're hollowed out. All that destruction for nothing, smh.)
Not to strike fear in your heart, but I suspect a "rolled back" (easy to do on the dash display, though the ECU keeps the true mileage) odometer.
Anyway, if you really want help with issues with your vehicle, you need to be a lot more detailed about the symptoms. Think like a doctor, describing the whole patient, not just how their elbow feels.
Yes. It's a typo. Should be: 450
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm not sure what you mean by "kick down". I'm female, if you hadn't figured that out. So, I'm not car savvy. Is that a feature or issue that I can physically see if I look down there? All I know is that when I accelerate, it feels really heavy and hard and requires more effort to accelerate than I would expect. It's like there something impeding the pedal from being pushed down. Hope that makes sense.
The sound is definitely coming from the tail pipe(s). I noticed it louder on the right rear side. It "seems" to be loudest when I first start the car. And as I stated in the original post, when idling, the car sounds fine. It doesn't miss or jerk or anything like that. It drives very smooth once acceleration has been made
Thank you for your help. I have a good mechanic who I trust. But, I like to know as much as possible so I don't feel so in the dark when I take it in to him.
The sound is definitely coming from the tail pipe(s). I noticed it louder on the right rear side. It "seems" to be loudest when I first start the car. And as I stated in the original post, when idling, the car sounds fine. It doesn't miss or jerk or anything like that. It drives very smooth once acceleration has been made
Thank you for your help. I have a good mechanic who I trust. But, I like to know as much as possible so I don't feel so in the dark when I take it in to him.
Or... is the pedal travel stiff throughout it's entire pedal travel?
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
When accelerating on a straight road, it's stiff and hard to push, but requires less work than if I need extra power going up hill. Sometimes if I take my foot off the accelerator and push again it "seems" to make a difference, but I can't be sure.
I hope I'm not frustrating you with my "female speak" I'm trying to choose my words carefully as to explain it as accurately as possible.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not frustrated at all - your terminology is just fine! Besides, it's not really a male/female thing - it's simply about experience level/familiarity with car stuff. And... we ALL started as inexperienced and unfamiliar ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Your terminology is fine. The next time you're in the car... push the pedal down and you'll feel it stop - although this is a false stop. Now, push harder - that's the detent that you feel that signals a downshift.
It sounds like it's stiff "all the time". Which means, as noted above, the problem is in the hinge (for lack of a better term) of the pedal. In other words, think of it like a rusty hinge. Possibly some silicone spray lube will help.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Your terminology is fine. The next time you're in the car... push the pedal down and you'll feel it stop - although this is a false stop. Now, push harder - that's the detent that you feel that signals a downshift.
It sounds like it's stiff "all the time". Which means, as noted above, the problem is in the hinge (for lack of a better term) of the pedal. In other words, think of it like a rusty hinge. Possibly some silicone spray lube will help.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Not frustrated at all - your terminology is just fine! Besides, it's not really a male/female thing - it's simply about experience level/familiarity with car stuff. And... we ALL started as inexperienced and unfamiliar ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Your terminology is fine. The next time you're in the car... push the pedal down and you'll feel it stop - although this is a false stop. Now, push harder - that's the detent that you feel that signals a downshift.
It sounds like it's stiff "all the time". Which means, as noted above, the problem is in the hinge (for lack of a better term) of the pedal. In other words, think of it like a rusty hinge. Possibly some silicone spray lube will help.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Your terminology is fine. The next time you're in the car... push the pedal down and you'll feel it stop - although this is a false stop. Now, push harder - that's the detent that you feel that signals a downshift.
It sounds like it's stiff "all the time". Which means, as noted above, the problem is in the hinge (for lack of a better term) of the pedal. In other words, think of it like a rusty hinge. Possibly some silicone spray lube will help.
I'm not a young woman....well into my 60s......and I "do" like bigger cars - SUVs in particular - as I'm also very tall and don't do well with sedans or small vehicles that you have to fold yourself into. But, it's a beast of a vehicle, so I wonder if something with a little less power and not so big might be better for me?
If you have any recommendations for an SUV (Mercedes) I would appreciate it. I can't afford a brand new Mercedes. So, something in the pre-owned market.
Thank you again for your help. Does the accelerator check happen when the car is not started? Or started and idling? And is the "rusty hinge" something I can do myself? If so, where would I spray the silicone?
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Your shop will likely just replace the pedal assembly. As I said earlier, it is uncommon but it does happen that dirt and grit lodges into the pivot points and cause it to feel stiff. The danger here is that it will seize in some intermediate or full on position, leaving you with a runaway vehicle. Get that taken care of by a competent, independent mechanic, or if you have the bank roll, the dealer.
this forum is up there in the age bracket you are talking about, but we are mainly a collection of people who will do anything in our power to avoid giving any money to the dealer ship service departments by viciously DIYing any problems we face with this car. In your case, you can certainly try some silicone spray in the pivot point of the Excelerator pedal, but if that doesn’t do anything you need to take it straight to a competent repair shop.
this forum is up there in the age bracket you are talking about, but we are mainly a collection of people who will do anything in our power to avoid giving any money to the dealer ship service departments by viciously DIYing any problems we face with this car. In your case, you can certainly try some silicone spray in the pivot point of the Excelerator pedal, but if that doesn’t do anything you need to take it straight to a competent repair shop.
Last edited by Max Blast; 05-26-2023 at 11:44 AM.
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Max Blast (05-26-2023)
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Your shop will likely just replace the pedal assembly. As I said earlier, it is uncommon but it does happen that dirt and grit lodges into the pivot points and cause it to feel stiff. The danger here is that it will seize in some intermediate or full on position, leaving you with a runaway vehicle. Get that taken care of by a competent, independent mechanic, or if you have the bank roll, the dealer.
this forum is up there in the age bracket you are talking about, but we are mainly a collection of people who will do anything in our power to avoid giving any money to the dealer ship service departments by viciously DIYing any problems we face with this car. In your case, you can certainly try some silicone spray in the pivot point of the Excelerator pedal, but if that doesn’t do anything you need to take it straight to a competent repair shop.
this forum is up there in the age bracket you are talking about, but we are mainly a collection of people who will do anything in our power to avoid giving any money to the dealer ship service departments by viciously DIYing any problems we face with this car. In your case, you can certainly try some silicone spray in the pivot point of the Excelerator pedal, but if that doesn’t do anything you need to take it straight to a competent repair shop.
#19
Member
You have good taste with cars, these are still good and affordable cars, like any other vehicle, they have their own issues but with some preventive maintenance they will easily go over 200K miles.
Last year my wife totalled the 2011 GL450, both the wife and daughter walked out of that car without a scratch. Did not even hesitate to get another one and couple months later found a 2012 GL550.
Yes this particular model needs a tad bit more TLC but again if you can do it yourself or have an honest indy shop, good cars to keep.
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I`m with Dennis on this, happened to me 10-12 years ago with my W210, pedal definitely did not feel right and it was intermittent, cleaned it, cleaned it and cleaned it again with vacuum cleaner no difference. One day I said enough is enough and went in there with a air hose with enough pressure, blew the heck out of it and find out a very small less than a pea size rock chip and some gunk flew over and that was it. Otherwise I was getting ready to replace it.
You have good taste with cars, these are still good and affordable cars, like any other vehicle, they have their own issues but with some preventive maintenance they will easily go over 200K miles.
Last year my wife totalled the 2011 GL450, both the wife and daughter walked out of that car without a scratch. Did not even hesitate to get another one and couple months later found a 2012 GL550.
Yes this particular model needs a tad bit more TLC but again if you can do it yourself or have an honest indy shop, good cars to keep.
You have good taste with cars, these are still good and affordable cars, like any other vehicle, they have their own issues but with some preventive maintenance they will easily go over 200K miles.
Last year my wife totalled the 2011 GL450, both the wife and daughter walked out of that car without a scratch. Did not even hesitate to get another one and couple months later found a 2012 GL550.
Yes this particular model needs a tad bit more TLC but again if you can do it yourself or have an honest indy shop, good cars to keep.
Thank you so much for the encouragement. It is a beautiful car. I'm the 2nd owner. The 1st owner was an elderly lady in South Florida who drove it less than 2K miles per year. She kept up the maintenance schedule and the records on it look good. I was surprised I had to replace the front and rear struts/air bags so quickly. But, I did. It needs new tires and still some suspension work that needs to be done to it as well. But the mechanic said I should be fine to do it a little bit here and there.
I have another car to drive until I get the issues worked out with this one. I just wonder though if I've bitten off more than I can chew. It feels like such a massive vehicle when I'm driving it. But, I will confess, driving it is nothing short of heaven. It's glides like I'm on ice. If I can get these issues taken care of and then just stay up on maintenance, then hopefully it will be as reliable as my 18 year old Toyota has been.
Thanks again for the encouragement.
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01blackhawk (05-26-2023)
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Blackhawk, you actually DID have a rock in it! I guess it makes sense - cinders that fall off our shoes.
The compressed air is a great idea - I don't think my idea of silicone, alone, will dislodge a rock.
The compressed air is a great idea - I don't think my idea of silicone, alone, will dislodge a rock.
#24
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![Talking](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Not frustrated at all - your terminology is just fine! Besides, it's not really a male/female thing - it's simply about experience level/familiarity with car stuff. And... we ALL started as inexperienced and unfamiliar ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Your terminology is fine. The next time you're in the car... push the pedal down and you'll feel it stop - although this is a false stop. Now, push harder - that's the detent that you feel that signals a downshift.
It sounds like it's stiff "all the time". Which means, as noted above, the problem is in the hinge (for lack of a better term) of the pedal. In other words, think of it like a rusty hinge. Possibly some silicone spray lube will help.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Your terminology is fine. The next time you're in the car... push the pedal down and you'll feel it stop - although this is a false stop. Now, push harder - that's the detent that you feel that signals a downshift.
It sounds like it's stiff "all the time". Which means, as noted above, the problem is in the hinge (for lack of a better term) of the pedal. In other words, think of it like a rusty hinge. Possibly some silicone spray lube will help.
I drove it to a store and when I got back in, I did that again - don’t know what the heck I’m doing 🙂. Then drove home. It was was smooth and accelerated normally.
What does that tell you?