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I think those are for installing, not removing, but of course I am not sure. I detest these single use items.
The risk of using a cutter such as pliers is the cramped quarters and the risk of torquing the fitting. The clamp is stainless and quite tough. Of course, in this case you are discarding the fitting, along with the radiator to which it is attached, but in my opinion it is best not to burn bridges.
Just cut at the ear bulge. The hose is thick and not likely to be badly injured by a glancing blow from the cutoff wheel. Plus, you are probably due for replacing that hose anyway. And it can probably simply be shortened by an inch or so if necessary.
Correct, ear clamps (or "Oetiker"). And, yes, the pliers are for installing. A pair of dykes works well for removing. Or get a small screwdriver under the tab and separate.
Correct, ear clamps (or "Oetiker"). And, yes, the pliers are for installing. A pair of dykes works well for removing. Or get a small screwdriver under the tab and separate.
Hoo boy, I've tried cutting off PEX clamps with dikes. That stainless band is tough.
It depends on the quality/composition/thickness of the SS. But if you can't cut through the ear, the dykes are good for twisting it off and unseating the band from the little nibby thingies (technical term)
It depends on the quality/composition/thickness of the SS. But if you can't cut through the ear, the dykes are good for twisting it off and unseating the band from the little nibby thingies (technical term)
Bigger ones have an overlapping band. Smaller ones don't. I vaguely remember noticing those clamps are the latter - because I considered using a small pair of diagonal clippers as you suggest, to lift the band, because that is what I have done with PEX fittings in my cellar, where it would be painful to utilize a Dremel.
The better removal tools have a high leverage snips at the end. Better to shear than pinch the metal.
I never had to deal with one on my GL, but my newly acquired Audi A4 has crimped hose clamps all over the engine compartment. I've been using a little bolt cutter to cut the crimp off. If they're like little CV boot bands, you can also often get a small screwdriver under the overlapping part and pop it loose off the barbs that fasten them too. Cutting them with dykes requires a pretty good squeeze. I've been replacing them with these after I'm done:
I never had to deal with one on my GL, but my newly acquired Audi A4 has crimped hose clamps all over the engine compartment. I've been using a little bolt cutter to cut the crimp off. If they're like little CV boot bands, you can also often get a small screwdriver under the overlapping part and pop it loose off the barbs that fasten them too. Cutting them with dykes requires a pretty good squeeze. I've been replacing them with these after I'm done: https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Inject...lbWF0aWM&psc=1
I like regular ol' stainless steel hose clamps, however I suspect these are able to apply greater clamping force, as the thread pitch on the screw is finer.
The following clamp seems the same as the one on that hose.
although the click type clamp can be removed/installed using a "Clic & Clic-R type clamp plier"
But there is almost no room to use the plier. Dremel seems the only solution here.
thanks for all the suggestions. and thanks Eric_in_sd for suggesting the Dremel.
just a follow up.
diagonal cutters did not work due to limited space.
The clamp plier did not work either for the same reason.
The Dremel saved the day with a straight Tungsten Carbide Carving Bit, cutting the two "bulges" on the clamp.
The clamp will shoot away in two pieces towards the end of the cutting process due to internal stress/strain. very convenient.
thanks for all the suggestions. and thanks Eric_in_sd for suggesting the Dremel.
just a follow up.
diagonal cutters did not work due to limited space.
The clamp plier did not work either for the same reason.
The Dremel saved the day with a straight Tungsten Carbide Carving Bit, cutting the two "bulges" on the clamp.
The clamp will shoot away in two pieces towards the end of the cutting process due to internal stress/strain. very convenient.
yes I kind of like cutting the clamps with a Tungsten carbide carving bit. takes about 20 seconds to cut one clamp.
Glad you got it!
I'll have to try that sometime. I use a Dremel all the time and would normally use the cutting wheel. I probably never would have tried the carving bit as I would have thought it would dull out too fast. Interesting.
yes i thought about the cutting wheel. but the space is very limited and the cutting wheel seems flimsy.
the carving bit is compact and plunged into the steel piece with ease, like a router bit plunges into wood.
yes i thought about the cutting wheel. but the space is very limited and the cutting wheel seems flimsy.
the carving bit is compact and plunged into the steel piece with ease, like a router bit plunges into wood.
Cool - thanks for the follow up! I think all of the carving bits I've used are the standard ones - meaning plain steel, not carbide tipped. I guess I can add that to my shopping list
FYI, you can get cutting wheels that are fiber-reinforced. They are MUCH sturdier than the regular cutting wheels - and last longer, too. I'm only mentioning that for future reference if you didn't know about them - they would slice through that metal very easily.
That's great to know, will keep that in mind.
I wish they could make a smaller version of cutting wheel say 3/4 inch diameter, for use in confined space,
btw the carving bit i used is
Dremel Max Life 9901HP 1/8" (3.2mm) Tungsten Carbide Rotary Carving Bit
Excellent - thanks for the extra info on the carving bit and making it even easier for me to spend money
They do make a smaller cutoff disc... well, YOU do... just wear it down
Yeah, I keep around old fiber cutting discs for exactly this reason. I only get rid of them when they become uselessly small.
Carbide is a funny tooling material. I am no machinist, but I understand it wants to be pushed hard and fast into the material. It doesn't like being used for abrasive cutting, which is what a Dremel (high rpm) likes to do. Something like that; maybe one of y'all who knows machining can elaborate.
Correct, ear clamps (or "Oetiker"). And, yes, the pliers are for installing. A pair of dykes works well for removing. Or get a small screwdriver under the tab and separate.
Oetiker pliers are used for removing, too. Turn 90 degrees and cut the top of the loop with them
12-15-2023 | 10:33 AM
