Gremlin blues
#1
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2007 GL450
What is the routing order of fiber optics
I don’t want to throw money at it without some effort in checking things.
No sound from radio.
so I took radio out I noticed fiber flashes red few times and stops. My thinking is this is the ‘wake up’ signal?if the command was good,and it is the 1st link in the fiber chain shouldn’t it keep flashing red sending a signal?
What is the chain in order,like Radio-amp-phone-etc. what’s 1st 2nd 3rd etc?
Radio was frozen on MB logo.I found stuck nav disc in it. Removed it radio now comes on but no sound still.Had to open radio and manually lift the Lazer mechanism so command can think it’s not stuck. I’m 90% sure this was the frozen on MB screen issue.
The Navi is dead no light on eject and no eject or anything.
But navi isn’t on fiber link. everything else on radio should work?Is the radio supposed to constantly flash red even when fiber plug is disconnected from
If it was good?If so then radio problem solved.
I have other things much more important to worry about then installing sounds at the moment that’s why I want to just fix the stock radio.
Any help is appreciated.
No sound from radio.
so I took radio out I noticed fiber flashes red few times and stops. My thinking is this is the ‘wake up’ signal?if the command was good,and it is the 1st link in the fiber chain shouldn’t it keep flashing red sending a signal?
What is the chain in order,like Radio-amp-phone-etc. what’s 1st 2nd 3rd etc?
Radio was frozen on MB logo.I found stuck nav disc in it. Removed it radio now comes on but no sound still.Had to open radio and manually lift the Lazer mechanism so command can think it’s not stuck. I’m 90% sure this was the frozen on MB screen issue.
The Navi is dead no light on eject and no eject or anything.
But navi isn’t on fiber link. everything else on radio should work?Is the radio supposed to constantly flash red even when fiber plug is disconnected from
If it was good?If so then radio problem solved.
I have other things much more important to worry about then installing sounds at the moment that’s why I want to just fix the stock radio.
Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by USNAVY; 02-24-2024 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Update
#2
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2007 GL450
You should start a new thread for each discrete issue. Several of these have already been discussed at length.
It can be overwhelming at first but if you are patient and persistent you will get there.
Was the vehicle stored outside? There may be water damage from storage.
It can be overwhelming at first but if you are patient and persistent you will get there.
Was the vehicle stored outside? There may be water damage from storage.
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BlackML550 (02-25-2024)
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You should start a new thread for each discrete issue. Several of these have already been discussed at length.
Before I joined I was on here for weeks reading. Some threads solved my issues. Your right,1 issue at a time would be more logical.
It can be overwhelming at first but if you are patient and persistent you will get there.
Very overwhelming and time consuming. But I’m learning and this is good as I plan on keeping it.
Was the vehicle stored outside? There may be water damage from storage.
Before I joined I was on here for weeks reading. Some threads solved my issues. Your right,1 issue at a time would be more logical.
It can be overwhelming at first but if you are patient and persistent you will get there.
Very overwhelming and time consuming. But I’m learning and this is good as I plan on keeping it.
Was the vehicle stored outside? There may be water damage from storage.
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Main Agm Battery is brand new few weeks ago. Tests 13v when not connected. Gets down to 12.5 when installed.I did not change Aux battery as I thought it did not have any effect on the issues.I honestly didn’t even see 1 when I put the Battery in.
#6
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You need to get a good scan tool on there and find out what is going on. $200bux will get you a MBII, which should be pretty good at querying the individual modules. I have not used one for three years now, so no guarantees. There are MBII versions that allow you to send commands, but their quality is unknown. About $800bux gets you an Autel MP808, which is a known good bidirectional tool, plus is usable on all makes. A few more bux gets you a STAR clone, but this is an option for the brave of heart. If so, go with an established vendor like our own BenzNinja.
Even a good tool leaves you like you are trying to get directions to a party and you get a drunk chick on the phone. Without it you are driving around on a foggy moonless night. The bluetooth / phone options are good for clearing CEL codes and not a whole lot more. They deliver data but the accuracy is questionable.
You can look up the VIN range for the sprocket issues. If within the range, you can only keep driving, ignore the errors, and wait for the kaboom, then swap the motor.
The primary cable fix has been discussed at length. You ought to ensure the running voltage is in the 14.4V range; this is unlikely to be the root cause if the voltage is better than 13V. Plus, the alternators are typically good for well over 100K miles.
A good tool will tell you whether the ECU mileage ties with the dash display. It would be a little unusual for the sprockets to go chowder at just 100K miles. One of our guys @BlownV8 had a M273 motor in the affected range and got over 250K miles out of it - before losing his vehicle to water intrusion.
And I would forget about the radio. Take the silence as an opportunity to pray.
Even a good tool leaves you like you are trying to get directions to a party and you get a drunk chick on the phone. Without it you are driving around on a foggy moonless night. The bluetooth / phone options are good for clearing CEL codes and not a whole lot more. They deliver data but the accuracy is questionable.
You can look up the VIN range for the sprocket issues. If within the range, you can only keep driving, ignore the errors, and wait for the kaboom, then swap the motor.
The primary cable fix has been discussed at length. You ought to ensure the running voltage is in the 14.4V range; this is unlikely to be the root cause if the voltage is better than 13V. Plus, the alternators are typically good for well over 100K miles.
A good tool will tell you whether the ECU mileage ties with the dash display. It would be a little unusual for the sprockets to go chowder at just 100K miles. One of our guys @BlownV8 had a M273 motor in the affected range and got over 250K miles out of it - before losing his vehicle to water intrusion.
And I would forget about the radio. Take the silence as an opportunity to pray.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; 02-25-2024 at 08:48 AM.
#7
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Actually yes it was outside. And the electronics under dr seat were compromised. Changed cgw and it fixed some issues like signals wipers airmatic button. Was told there is another gateway needs to be changed. Unfortunately this mechanic also doesn’t have a good scanner that will say exactly wich module to replace. That’s why i decided to tackle it I don’t want to do a process of elimination. Can’t afford it and everything is buried they didn’t make it easy to get to these parts.
TLDR; parts car.
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#8
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You need to get a good scan tool on there and find out what is going on. $200bux will get you a MBII, which should be pretty good at querying the individual modules. I have not used one for three years now, so no guarantees. There are MBII versions that allow you to send commands, but their quality is unknown. About $800bux gets you an Autel MP808, which is a known good bidirectional tool, plus is usable on all makes. A few more bux gets you a STAR clone, but this is an option for the brave of heart. If so, go with an established vendor like our own BenzNinja.
Honestly After my post i thought the same thing.
Get a decent scanner. Sometimes you post something and realize you will get responses but many peoples solution was different modules etc.
I have prob 300 to spare is all. If the mb II will tell me wich 1 is not communicating I’ll go for it.Theres only 4 engine codes. All crankshaft. The other data about 103 codes total is mostly due to 1 bad module.Like no door locks but I have so many codes for the door etc. If this guy has something in my price range I’ll find a way to message him.
Even a good tool leaves you like you are trying to get directions to a party and you get a drunk chick on the phone. Without it you are driving around on a foggy moonless night. The bluetooth / phone options are good for clearing CEL codes and not a whole lot more. They deliver data but the accuracy is questionable.
You can look up the VIN range for the sprocket issues. If within the range, you can only keep driving, ignore the errors, and wait for the kaboom, then swap the motor.
Its in the vin range unfortunately and the dealer won’t tell me if it’s ever been addressed. Not orig owner he said. Won’t even say if trans fluid ever been changed.
The primary cable fix has been discussed at length. You ought to ensure the running voltage is in the 14.4V range; this is unlikely to be the root cause if the voltage is better than 13V. Plus, the alternators are typically good for well over 100K miles.
mechanic blames 2nd gateway for this issue but I am very sure that has nothing to do with weak start. Bad starter won’t cause erratic charging volts. I’ve never seen it get higher then 13.5. Even if I’m on Highway at high rpm’s. It likes to hang out at 12.8-13.1 engine running. I'll just clean connections and swap new starter. I was just afraid it was timing off causing it after I read about it. But No ever mentions starting issues from timing issues in the many threads I read.
A good tool will tell you whether the ECU mileage ties with the dash display. It would be a little unusual for the sprockets to go chowder at just 100K miles. One of our guys @BlownV8 had a M273 motor in the affected range and got over 250K miles out of it - before losing his vehicle to water intrusion.
And I would forget about the radio. Take the silence as an opportunity to pray.
Honestly After my post i thought the same thing.
Get a decent scanner. Sometimes you post something and realize you will get responses but many peoples solution was different modules etc.
I have prob 300 to spare is all. If the mb II will tell me wich 1 is not communicating I’ll go for it.Theres only 4 engine codes. All crankshaft. The other data about 103 codes total is mostly due to 1 bad module.Like no door locks but I have so many codes for the door etc. If this guy has something in my price range I’ll find a way to message him.
Even a good tool leaves you like you are trying to get directions to a party and you get a drunk chick on the phone. Without it you are driving around on a foggy moonless night. The bluetooth / phone options are good for clearing CEL codes and not a whole lot more. They deliver data but the accuracy is questionable.
You can look up the VIN range for the sprocket issues. If within the range, you can only keep driving, ignore the errors, and wait for the kaboom, then swap the motor.
Its in the vin range unfortunately and the dealer won’t tell me if it’s ever been addressed. Not orig owner he said. Won’t even say if trans fluid ever been changed.
The primary cable fix has been discussed at length. You ought to ensure the running voltage is in the 14.4V range; this is unlikely to be the root cause if the voltage is better than 13V. Plus, the alternators are typically good for well over 100K miles.
mechanic blames 2nd gateway for this issue but I am very sure that has nothing to do with weak start. Bad starter won’t cause erratic charging volts. I’ve never seen it get higher then 13.5. Even if I’m on Highway at high rpm’s. It likes to hang out at 12.8-13.1 engine running. I'll just clean connections and swap new starter. I was just afraid it was timing off causing it after I read about it. But No ever mentions starting issues from timing issues in the many threads I read.
A good tool will tell you whether the ECU mileage ties with the dash display. It would be a little unusual for the sprockets to go chowder at just 100K miles. One of our guys @BlownV8 had a M273 motor in the affected range and got over 250K miles out of it - before losing his vehicle to water intrusion.
And I would forget about the radio. Take the silence as an opportunity to pray.
if I knew where to start unplugging and checking for signal I’ll find the culprit. They sure made it hard. Under carpets ect. And yes water is what killed the central gateway next to amp. He says 1 more gateway is bad next to it. I looked but I can only see amp n gateway he swapped under seat and a black box that doesn’t look like it has anything to do with ecm. A clear diagram of the many modules for the gl450 would help.
Thanks dude
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I wish there was just a way to simply reply. This is my first posting. Ill figure it out hopefully. I just needed the routing order of the fiber optic audio path. I can’t find it anywhere on 15yrs worth of threads. Thank you
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With The radio fiber cable unplugged should the radios signal OUT continue to emit a red flash does anyone know?I would assume it does as it is the source of the optic audio signal and even if it were removed from the amp cd phone etc
chain it should still flash red and send a signal. Mine flashes few times then stops when fiber unplugged.
And is the amp the 1st source in the fiber optic loop?Thats all I really need to know and if 100% solve the issue on my own. Ive read many years of threads many people have asked same question but no one ever knew the answer. I can’t believe there is no sticky or file’s section that shows this.
chain it should still flash red and send a signal. Mine flashes few times then stops when fiber unplugged.
And is the amp the 1st source in the fiber optic loop?Thats all I really need to know and if 100% solve the issue on my own. Ive read many years of threads many people have asked same question but no one ever knew the answer. I can’t believe there is no sticky or file’s section that shows this.
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This was a 2 owner 99,319 miles and smooth engine and shifting trans. These old Benzes are hard to find like that. But this is it. And it was for pennies. It was given to me. The previous owners were scared into not driving it past 100k or they would spend ton of $$ on repairs. It sat for yrs. But runs perfect. Just no radio Audio no power locks or hatch working.
milk figure it out the hard way diagnosing it and maybe I can learn and help someone down the line. Many people ask the same questions I did.
Thanks
#15
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I hear what your saying. But honestly my issues are so minor I just need to find someome who knows these inside out.I can’t believe no one knows the way the optics work and In what order. I tried to find anything other then a older Mb and bmw that seen. I wanted what I know inside out a Honda or Toyota. The used Mb would have to run like new,motor and trans wise for me to buy it. If that was the case I’d gladly take it with all the little issues.
This was a 2 owner 99,319 miles and smooth engine and shifting trans. These old Benzes are hard to find like that. But this is it. And it was for pennies. It was given to me. The previous owners were scared into not driving it past 100k or they would spend ton of $$ on repairs. It sat for yrs. But runs perfect. Just no radio Audio no power locks or hatch working.
milk figure it out the hard way diagnosing it and maybe I can learn and help someone down the line. Many people ask the same questions I did.
Thanks
This was a 2 owner 99,319 miles and smooth engine and shifting trans. These old Benzes are hard to find like that. But this is it. And it was for pennies. It was given to me. The previous owners were scared into not driving it past 100k or they would spend ton of $$ on repairs. It sat for yrs. But runs perfect. Just no radio Audio no power locks or hatch working.
milk figure it out the hard way diagnosing it and maybe I can learn and help someone down the line. Many people ask the same questions I did.
Thanks
#16
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Thats exactly what I was looking for.
according to that the amp is not 1st in opitc chain as I thought it was. The phone modules are. Now I’ll try to locate the phone box unplug it and if it’s not getting fiber signal then the Radio is dead since the phone gets the 1st signal. My intention here was if the radio is not emitting a optic audio signal there’s no point in unplugging anything else. But I can’t find anything on forum if the command is supposed to always blink red even if something downstream is bad.
Anyhows appreciate it…
#17
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Power Amp
Have you look under the driver seat at the Power Amp? That was definitely a problem with my corroded power amp board that first started to go on/off on startup .. then finally quit.
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Yes perfect.Thanks!
Thats exactly what I was looking for.
according to that the amp is not 1st in opitc chain as I thought it was. The phone modules are. Now I’ll try to locate the phone box unplug it and if it’s not getting fiber signal then the Radio is dead since the phone gets the 1st signal. My intention here was if the radio is not emitting a optic audio signal there’s no point in unplugging anything else. But I can’t find anything on forum if the command is supposed to always blink red even if something downstream is bad.
Anyhows appreciate it…
Thats exactly what I was looking for.
according to that the amp is not 1st in opitc chain as I thought it was. The phone modules are. Now I’ll try to locate the phone box unplug it and if it’s not getting fiber signal then the Radio is dead since the phone gets the 1st signal. My intention here was if the radio is not emitting a optic audio signal there’s no point in unplugging anything else. But I can’t find anything on forum if the command is supposed to always blink red even if something downstream is bad.
Anyhows appreciate it…
The phone and satellite modules are under the second row driver side seat, at least they were in my 2007.