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Hello! I just bought a 2010 GL450 with 133k miles for $7700. I had a 2013 GL450 (X166 with the M278 bi-turbo) for the last five years but the engine recently destroyed itself and was too expensive to fix. I also have a 2008 E350 4matic. I loved the Mercedes GL platform but couldn't afford a newer GL and didn't want another M278 engine so I went with the non-turbo X164. I shopped for a while, and ended up getting one 150 miles from home from a private seller. He is an older mechanic at a shop, it was his wife's personal vehicle for so he had maintained it very well. New Mercedes intake manifold, all air suspension (Arnot), fuel pump, air conditioning compressor, lots of other things. He even put it up on a lift for me and showed me the undercarriage and the new parts. Drives great, no accident history, new tires, etc. Came with two keys even! Prior to his ownership it was serviced at the local Mercedes dealer. Stock stereo had been replaced by Mercedes a few years ago, so the buttons aren't worn out and the screen looks great. Perfect black interior (they didn't have kids), some scratches and two little dings on the exterior which I am getting quotes to fix (hopefully PDR). The seller even gave me a set of new lug bolts to replace the rusty originals. One current mechanical issue is that it takes an extra second to start, I'm hoping it's the battery (I'll replace both) and not the starter which I think is original. Also when you flip the second row passenger seat forward, it beeps but the drivers seat doesn't move forward, is it supposed to? I'm usually active on forums, I fix everything myself so I'll be around here a lot. I'm hoping to get at least 100k more miles out of it. Purchase date May 1, 2025
Well bought at that money. You’ll have another 200 K out of that easy if you just keep it dry and service the transmission and stay ahead of airmatic failures.
Keep an eye on the oil cooler and oil filter housing gaskets for leakage down the front.
Yes, these are fantastic vehicles if you can keep the water out. Sounds like you may need a new battery. They are so cheap these days. Seems like just yesterday I purchased mine for more than 10 times what you paid. I ran it for close to 300k miles so I probably got my money's worth. Had it not been for the water intrusion I would probably still be driving it today.
Regarding the seat not moving forward when the second row back is collapsed: If the front seat works fine otherwise, I'd not worry about it. The first thing I did on my '13 E350 was to turn off that "feature" that moved the front seat to a basically unusable position when the back seat got folded. Not sure if it beeped or not, but the folded back seat locked in stupidly restrictive parameters for the front seat's range of motion in the name of protecting the back seat's headrest.
Looks like you've got a good one. Keep the fluids fresh incl diffs and transmission and transfer case. Oil changes every 5k.miles is the secret to longevity with these engines given the silicone lined bores. Trans every 40k miles. Look for torque converter drain plug that some models have (some dont). Have a really good look at rear tail light seals and replace them as well as look for leaks in the rear cargo area. Tons of evidence here and in W164 forum. The rear SAM should be on a 2010 model under the rear seat but if it's not, it'll be at risk of water intrusion in the RHS of the cargo area. Check also drain plugs for sunroof and if the recall on the brake booster and drivers airbag was completed. Look to changing the PCV rebreather (back side of LH cylinder head) if he replaced the intake as its the rebreather that wears and allows oil into the intake, causing those dramas. The only other common fault is the EIS that breaks a solder but at 130k.miles, that's probably already happened and been repaired. And get a decent scan tool if you haven't got one to check the voltage for the starter - Should be 11.7v+ engine off and 12.7v+ engine on. Best of luck.
Last edited by BlackML550; May 3, 2025 at 10:55 AM.
Changed my oil every 10k miles with Mobile 1 0W-40 and used a Mann fleece filter. No engine lubrication issues ever and had close to 300k miles when water intrusion totaled the car. Changing synthetic oil at 5k intervals is a waste unless you are towing or driving 100 percent in the city with a ton of stop and go traffic. I've lived by this schedule with all my MB's and have driven well over a million miles combined on multiple MB's so it is not a fluke. Did the trans fluid at 40k, 100k, 200k and no transmission issues ever with the exception of a warranty replacement of the turbine speed sensor very early on. I did not do any towing but if I did, I would have replaced more frequently. Of course, the factory cam plugs leaked and were replaced under warranty. My water pump imploded and was replaced under warranty. Did the radiator around 200k miles, fuel pump, and crank sensors about the same time, one set of rear air bags and the fronts were replaced three times. Even ran my plugs for 200k miles. Made the mistake of doing the intake flappy but it broke again, and I could never tell any difference when it was working and when it wasn't so I just left it broken.
The car was more reliable the second 100k miles but needed a bunch of work around 200k miles. Water will probably get it long before the engine or transmission fails. Overall, a great car with the exception of water intrusion issues in multiple locations.
I purchased my 2009 GL450 in 2021 for $8,900 from a curber in Southern California.
Zero service record has been wonderful in Nigeria. Well except for the balloons due to our deplorable roads here. I changed to regular suspension which rides horribly compared to the Airmatic. I’ll be going back and just deal with it.
I replaced both batteries, they weren't that old (2021) but I wanted to start with a fresh pair since I tow trailers a lot and it strains the electrical system. I measured 14.1V for the alternator but only about 12.3V for the old battery so I figured might as well replace it. It starts better now, but there's still a tiny pause between turning the key and the engine firing, maybe that's normal. I won't worry about it as I'm chasing down some other stuff. I'm getting some paintless dent repair done, some touch-up paint for the scratches, the front passenger footwell 12V isn't working (I just downloaded the fuse diagram, I hope it's that simple), I need to register it, etc. It passed Oregon's DEQ emission test ok, but shortly afterwards showed P0422/P0430 left catalytic converter efficiency codes so I'll need to troubleshoot that (I read some threads here about it, maybe an O2 sensor). I had a friend cut and buff the paint, it shines like showroom new now. It seems to drive less floaty than my 2013 GL450, it's hard to compare exactly maybe that's in my head. After I bought it I found out the drivers side door mirror had been replaced and doesn't quite match the passenger side. Probably nobody else will notice but now that I know it is bugging me but it's pretty expensive to replace so it's not a priority for now.
It could be the starter if it has never been changed. The starter gets weak over the years.
The original starter on my 2007 GL450 was changed in 2023 and it made a huge difference in starting.
It could be the starter if it has never been changed. The starter gets weak over the years.
The original starter on my 2007 GL450 was changed in 2023 and it made a huge difference in starting.
this is very true - they do wear out.
You can test it in MBstat/DAS if you are so equipped. A giveaway for a failing starter is that you’re no longer able to run the compression test in DAS.
Swapped out the rusted lug bolts with new ones, the old ones were really bad. I figured out the 12V passenger footwell thing, it was just a bad connection at the positive terminal inside the connector but I cleaned it up and it works fine. Next is a deep interior detail. Wheel lug replacement
I replaced the starter last night. Watched a couple Youtube videos and read a thread here on mbworld about it. Each one did it slightly differently, I ended up using bits of advice from all the sources. It was physically difficult for me, laying on my back trying to get the bolts removed and reinstalled. Simple concept, but access is so tight. Worth the effort, I saved a lot of money over paying a shop to do it. Starts much quicker and stronger now, so the old starter was getting weak and I probably saved myself from getting stranded and needing a tow. I didn't need to buy any tools to get the job done, but I did realize it would have been easier with a swivel-head 3/8" ratchet wrench, so I ordered one today. That's the best kind of car project, where the outcome is a success AND you get a new tool out of it!
I replaced the starter last night. Watched a couple Youtube videos and read a thread here on mbworld about it. Each one did it slightly differently, I ended up using bits of advice from all the sources. It was physically difficult for me, laying on my back trying to get the bolts removed and reinstalled. Simple concept, but access is so tight. Worth the effort, I saved a lot of money over paying a shop to do it. Starts much quicker and stronger now, so the old starter was getting weak and I probably saved myself from getting stranded and needing a tow. I didn't need to buy any tools to get the job done, but I did realize it would have been easier with a swivel-head 3/8" ratchet wrench, so I ordered one today. That's the best kind of car project, where the outcome is a success AND you get a new tool out of it!
Congratulations!
I did some research on this project but in the end hired a mobile mechanic to replace the starter in my garage. Took him about 30 min to get it done, for $140. Could have cost me hours of efforts to get it done.
btw some shops can refurbish the original starter for $85.
I have 2008 GL450 and never had issues. What do you guys keep referring to keep it dry? I always garage park and never submerged in water the car. Do you mean don't drive in heavy rain? I have done that many times. What is the concern with Water penetration and what part? I would love to keep my car running longer especially after my new electronics investment.
The sunroof drains get clogged and it leaks inside the A pillar into the front SAM. The top leaks around the bolts that connect the luggage rack to the top of the car. The rear sunroof is known to crack and let water through. The rear taillights are also a known leak point. There may be more but all the spots where it leaks contain sensitive electronics, so the car ends up getting totaled from water intrusion.
The sunroof drains get clogged and it leaks inside the A pillar into the front SAM. The top leaks around the bolts that connect the luggage rack to the top of the car. The rear sunroof is known to crack and let water through. The rear taillights are also a known leak point. There may be more but all the spots where it leaks contain sensitive electronics, so the car ends up getting totaled from water intrusion.
My biggest water intrusion area will be forgetting and leaving the rear side windows in the open position.
The general rule is that on older German cars you leave the sunroof be.
Keep them lubed and use them often, this keeps everything moving freely. (same for power windows, I open and close every window at least once a week, even in winter, to keep them moving freely)
I open the sunroof everytime I get in my car or the Benz. Love having it open.
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