2013 GL450 ECU Tune
07-18-2013, 06:30 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2013 GL450 ECU Tune
I decided to have the ECU tuned in my 2013 GL450. As discussed in other threads the new turbo engine, in its first year of release, is massively DEtuned. Being that it's a turbo and that it's detuned means that a simple ECU tune can unlock an enormous amount of HP/TQ...around an extra 140hp and 160tq!! Those are really insane numbers to get from a simple ECU tune but as previously stated this is because turbo engines can see large gains in a simple tune (vs naturally aspirated engines) and this engine in its first year of release has been "tuned down" (detuned) to allow MB to slowly release more hp/tq in the coming years. A simple ECU tune will give you the next 5-7 years of hp/tq RIGHT NOW!
There a few good tuners out there and you will have to decide for yourself how your dollars are best spent. You have to factor in cost/reliability/performance/service (if you need a re-flash). The tuners I considered and communicated with were: OE Tuning, Eurocharged, Renntech, Speedtuning USA and Kleeman (never heard back from Kleeman). All the tuners listed above (except Kleeman) were very nice, responsive and seemed like they had a good product. I've heard good things about Kleeman but just never managed to get my emails returned (?). Speedtuning USA (Oliver) was very nice but didn't think he could tune the 2013 GL450 because of encryption issues (I appreciated the honesty) which the other tuners didn't seem to have. So it was really down to OE, Eurocharged and Renntech. Renntech was BY FAR much more expensive, especially after considering the big sales OE and Eurocharged were offering, so in my mind going with Renntech meant paying for their reputation and experience.....which is not to be completely dismissed at all. After speaking to the three tuners on my short list and considering MANY factors, I decided to go with Eurocharged. I should note that I have tuned two other vehicles in the past (so I have some experience) but have never used any of the above tuners and have no affiliation with them in the slightest.
Some people will think tuning a GL is crazy for a number of reasons. First is probably because many will think of tuning as something you either do to "racers" or at the very least NOT an suv. The other big issues are probably "warranty concerns" and cost/complexity of the tune. My thoughts on that is this. Tuning your "ECU only" is very different than changing out your turbos, intercooler, cats, pipes, pulleys, etc. Doing those other things can more easily lead to things going wrong, warranty related issues, cost, etc. but just tuning your ECU is very different (IMO). Tuning your ECU is something that the manufacturer does itself each year. Changing boost pressure (in turbos), adjusting for octane (engine octane is set low to accommodate the entire country, if you will always put in 91 or 93 octane adjustments can be made to allow the engine to run richer which increases performance) and misc other "mapping", throttle/revs. These software tweaks allow your engine to operate optimally, especially in an engine such as the 2013 GL450 which is so massively DEtuned.
So what's involved. You have a few choices. You can either take your vehicle to a performance/tuning shop in your area and have them remove your ECU and then send it to Eurocharged (or another tuner) and then reinstall it for you, or you can do it yourself, which will be cheaper and is SO EASY. This vehicle makes it so incredibly easy to take out your ECU that I guarantee you taking out the garbage will be more difficult than this. I will post pics below on the entire process. The other two things that are recommended if you are going to tune your ECU is to upgrade your Spark Plugs and upgrade your Air Filter. The reasoning behind this is that since your engine will be running with higher boost pressure (among other things) your OEM plugs won't really be up for the job. Under the increased heat and pressure they could misfire. At the very least they won't give you the "optimal boost" through the entire RPM range. The good news is that spark plugs are relatively inexpensive (even for the really high end ones), the bad news is that they can be a pain to change (especially since MB requires a special socket to remove). The better Air Filters will help increase your air intake which also increases your performance and make for an overall better experience. For these reasons it is highly recommended that you make those changes as well. Those of you that are handy will be able to change the plugs and filters without a problem. While I did the ECU myself (which is easy) I am opting to have my mechanic do the plugs and filters (I researched and purchased them). Since this vehicle is so new it was a pain doing the research on the plugs (finding the right ones) and even locating and replacing them isn't easy giving the lack of online documentation (unless you purchase the tech manuals...another reason I am having my mechanic do the plugs and filters).
Here’s the short list:
1.) ECU Tune – removed and reinstalled myself – performed by Eurocharged – www.eurocharged.com – you can also PM Jake on this board at “loungn14”
2.) Spark Plugs – having these installed by my mechanic (the dealer might also do it for you for cost of labor) - NGK spark plugs (you will need 8 of them), stock# 93026 (DILKAR8A8) – these plugs are high performance and run “1 step colder” than the current OEM plugs (which for your reference are MB# A0041596403). Best place to purchase the NGK plugs are online at ngk.com (which ironically is NOT NGK’s website but a company called Monarch…..). They are $21 each. One important note. The tech that I spoke to at NGK (the actual plug manufacturer not the website) said that you should NOT gap the plugs since they are pre-gapped and should be left that way. He also said that they should be installed with 10-15 ft/lb torque and not any more, regardless of what the MB tech manual might say. He said if you don't use a torque wrench then it should be hand tight plus another 1/2-2/3 turn. That's it!
3.) K&N Air Filters – part# 33-2474 - having these installed by my mechanic (the dealer might also do it for you for cost of labor) - you need two filters but they are sold in sets of 2 so you only need to purchase 1 set of these. Cheapest I found was $74.45 on Amazon:
Results:
I just put the ECU back in last night. I have test driven it but have not really banged on it because I have not had the new spark plugs (or filters) installed yet and I don’t want to really push the engine hard. Plus this is a brand new vehicle with less than 200 miles on it and I also have to break the vehicle in itself. So it will be hard to give you the REAL results for a few months but once I get the plugs in next week I will push it a lot more and will post back with more results. So far, without even pushing it, the results are INSANE. Just feathering the pedal now and you get enormous amounts of immediate power and torque. I can only imagine what this thing is going to be like when I can really punch it. If any of you are considering this, I would say go for it. If you’re not considering it, I think you should. The engine you have can be opened up to be a monster.
These are all just purely my opinions based upon my research and my experiences. Below I will show you pics of my vehicle and what the ECU looks like, where it is, how to get it out and put it back in. Then I’ll update you again when I drive some more. Good luck!
I am sorry that the pics below aren't rotated correctly. Haven't figured that out yet. They get uploaded messed up.
This shows the engine with the plastic cover on. This cover easily pulls off and is simply held on by clips. Just pull it off gently, releasing each clip.
This shows the plastic housing removed. The ECU is the silver rectangular unit at the top (in this case the right side of pic because of rotation).
Closeup of the ECU. It is connected to the engine mount by four plastic pins (round ***** on the bottom). They are connectors. If you grab the front of the ECU and lift up, these connectors will simply pop out. Do the same to the rear pins and then the ECU will be free EXCEPT for the two cable connectors on the side.
This is one of the four pin connectors referenced above. By pulling up on the ECU they simply pop out like the tabs on the plastic housing you removed on the engine cover.
These are the cable connectors. These have to be removed next. Now that the ECU is free to be moved around you will more easily be able to remove the cable connectors. There are two of them. To remove them you will have to pull a tab on the end of each connector. The cable to the front of the ECU will have the tab in the front and the cable to the rear will have the tab to the back. Start with the cable in the front, the one closest to you. If you feel the side of that cable connector and pull toward you the tab will slide very easily out and toward you. Then it will unhinge the cable connector and you will be able to disconnect it from the ECU. Once the tab is fully extended (unlocking the connector) pull the connector away from the ECU just like you would unplug a plug from an outlet. You want to do it straight and gently because there are pins connected between the ECU and the cable connector. Do the same thing for the cable in the rear except this time the tab will be toward the rear of the connector and so you will need to pull the tab out (away from you) toward the rear of the car. I'm probably not explaining this well and it sounds more complicated than it is. Once you have the connector in your hand it will make sense.
These are the cable connectors after sliding the tabs and then pulling them free from the ECU. They are essentially rectangular plugs that plug into the ECU and then the tab pushes in and helps lock them down in place.
The ECU is now out.
A closeup of the ECU from the top looking down
Another shot from the side showing the connectors (with pins inside) that have been disconnected from the cables in the vehicle (in you last and final step). Remember that the tabs that you pull are on the cables themselves not the connectors on the ECU.
ECU arrives back from Eurocharged. When sending out your ECU my personal suggestion would be to use FedEx. Pack it very well, bubble wrap, and insure it for $2500-$3000.
If you look closely at this pic, right above and to the left of the first circular nub on the heat sink there is the round hole that needed to be drilled and is now filled in with epoxy.
This is another pic of the modified/drilled ECU from a distance. Hard to even tell anything was done.
That's it for now. I know some of the pics are rotated and might make it even harder to make sense out of it so you might want to print them out or save them and rotate them so you can better orient them. I think I even stumbled across a website or youtube vid that shows these cable/connectors a bit better so it will make more sense but once you get in there I think it will be pretty obvious.
I will update this with a vid and my further impressions once I change the plugs and filter and have had an opportunity to punch it a bit. So far, LOVING IT.
There a few good tuners out there and you will have to decide for yourself how your dollars are best spent. You have to factor in cost/reliability/performance/service (if you need a re-flash). The tuners I considered and communicated with were: OE Tuning, Eurocharged, Renntech, Speedtuning USA and Kleeman (never heard back from Kleeman). All the tuners listed above (except Kleeman) were very nice, responsive and seemed like they had a good product. I've heard good things about Kleeman but just never managed to get my emails returned (?). Speedtuning USA (Oliver) was very nice but didn't think he could tune the 2013 GL450 because of encryption issues (I appreciated the honesty) which the other tuners didn't seem to have. So it was really down to OE, Eurocharged and Renntech. Renntech was BY FAR much more expensive, especially after considering the big sales OE and Eurocharged were offering, so in my mind going with Renntech meant paying for their reputation and experience.....which is not to be completely dismissed at all. After speaking to the three tuners on my short list and considering MANY factors, I decided to go with Eurocharged. I should note that I have tuned two other vehicles in the past (so I have some experience) but have never used any of the above tuners and have no affiliation with them in the slightest.
Some people will think tuning a GL is crazy for a number of reasons. First is probably because many will think of tuning as something you either do to "racers" or at the very least NOT an suv. The other big issues are probably "warranty concerns" and cost/complexity of the tune. My thoughts on that is this. Tuning your "ECU only" is very different than changing out your turbos, intercooler, cats, pipes, pulleys, etc. Doing those other things can more easily lead to things going wrong, warranty related issues, cost, etc. but just tuning your ECU is very different (IMO). Tuning your ECU is something that the manufacturer does itself each year. Changing boost pressure (in turbos), adjusting for octane (engine octane is set low to accommodate the entire country, if you will always put in 91 or 93 octane adjustments can be made to allow the engine to run richer which increases performance) and misc other "mapping", throttle/revs. These software tweaks allow your engine to operate optimally, especially in an engine such as the 2013 GL450 which is so massively DEtuned.
So what's involved. You have a few choices. You can either take your vehicle to a performance/tuning shop in your area and have them remove your ECU and then send it to Eurocharged (or another tuner) and then reinstall it for you, or you can do it yourself, which will be cheaper and is SO EASY. This vehicle makes it so incredibly easy to take out your ECU that I guarantee you taking out the garbage will be more difficult than this. I will post pics below on the entire process. The other two things that are recommended if you are going to tune your ECU is to upgrade your Spark Plugs and upgrade your Air Filter. The reasoning behind this is that since your engine will be running with higher boost pressure (among other things) your OEM plugs won't really be up for the job. Under the increased heat and pressure they could misfire. At the very least they won't give you the "optimal boost" through the entire RPM range. The good news is that spark plugs are relatively inexpensive (even for the really high end ones), the bad news is that they can be a pain to change (especially since MB requires a special socket to remove). The better Air Filters will help increase your air intake which also increases your performance and make for an overall better experience. For these reasons it is highly recommended that you make those changes as well. Those of you that are handy will be able to change the plugs and filters without a problem. While I did the ECU myself (which is easy) I am opting to have my mechanic do the plugs and filters (I researched and purchased them). Since this vehicle is so new it was a pain doing the research on the plugs (finding the right ones) and even locating and replacing them isn't easy giving the lack of online documentation (unless you purchase the tech manuals...another reason I am having my mechanic do the plugs and filters).
Here’s the short list:
1.) ECU Tune – removed and reinstalled myself – performed by Eurocharged – www.eurocharged.com – you can also PM Jake on this board at “loungn14”
2.) Spark Plugs – having these installed by my mechanic (the dealer might also do it for you for cost of labor) - NGK spark plugs (you will need 8 of them), stock# 93026 (DILKAR8A8) – these plugs are high performance and run “1 step colder” than the current OEM plugs (which for your reference are MB# A0041596403). Best place to purchase the NGK plugs are online at ngk.com (which ironically is NOT NGK’s website but a company called Monarch…..). They are $21 each. One important note. The tech that I spoke to at NGK (the actual plug manufacturer not the website) said that you should NOT gap the plugs since they are pre-gapped and should be left that way. He also said that they should be installed with 10-15 ft/lb torque and not any more, regardless of what the MB tech manual might say. He said if you don't use a torque wrench then it should be hand tight plus another 1/2-2/3 turn. That's it!
3.) K&N Air Filters – part# 33-2474 - having these installed by my mechanic (the dealer might also do it for you for cost of labor) - you need two filters but they are sold in sets of 2 so you only need to purchase 1 set of these. Cheapest I found was $74.45 on Amazon:
Results:
I just put the ECU back in last night. I have test driven it but have not really banged on it because I have not had the new spark plugs (or filters) installed yet and I don’t want to really push the engine hard. Plus this is a brand new vehicle with less than 200 miles on it and I also have to break the vehicle in itself. So it will be hard to give you the REAL results for a few months but once I get the plugs in next week I will push it a lot more and will post back with more results. So far, without even pushing it, the results are INSANE. Just feathering the pedal now and you get enormous amounts of immediate power and torque. I can only imagine what this thing is going to be like when I can really punch it. If any of you are considering this, I would say go for it. If you’re not considering it, I think you should. The engine you have can be opened up to be a monster.
These are all just purely my opinions based upon my research and my experiences. Below I will show you pics of my vehicle and what the ECU looks like, where it is, how to get it out and put it back in. Then I’ll update you again when I drive some more. Good luck!
I am sorry that the pics below aren't rotated correctly. Haven't figured that out yet. They get uploaded messed up.
This shows the engine with the plastic cover on. This cover easily pulls off and is simply held on by clips. Just pull it off gently, releasing each clip.
This shows the plastic housing removed. The ECU is the silver rectangular unit at the top (in this case the right side of pic because of rotation).
Closeup of the ECU. It is connected to the engine mount by four plastic pins (round ***** on the bottom). They are connectors. If you grab the front of the ECU and lift up, these connectors will simply pop out. Do the same to the rear pins and then the ECU will be free EXCEPT for the two cable connectors on the side.
This is one of the four pin connectors referenced above. By pulling up on the ECU they simply pop out like the tabs on the plastic housing you removed on the engine cover.
These are the cable connectors. These have to be removed next. Now that the ECU is free to be moved around you will more easily be able to remove the cable connectors. There are two of them. To remove them you will have to pull a tab on the end of each connector. The cable to the front of the ECU will have the tab in the front and the cable to the rear will have the tab to the back. Start with the cable in the front, the one closest to you. If you feel the side of that cable connector and pull toward you the tab will slide very easily out and toward you. Then it will unhinge the cable connector and you will be able to disconnect it from the ECU. Once the tab is fully extended (unlocking the connector) pull the connector away from the ECU just like you would unplug a plug from an outlet. You want to do it straight and gently because there are pins connected between the ECU and the cable connector. Do the same thing for the cable in the rear except this time the tab will be toward the rear of the connector and so you will need to pull the tab out (away from you) toward the rear of the car. I'm probably not explaining this well and it sounds more complicated than it is. Once you have the connector in your hand it will make sense.
These are the cable connectors after sliding the tabs and then pulling them free from the ECU. They are essentially rectangular plugs that plug into the ECU and then the tab pushes in and helps lock them down in place.
The ECU is now out.
A closeup of the ECU from the top looking down
Another shot from the side showing the connectors (with pins inside) that have been disconnected from the cables in the vehicle (in you last and final step). Remember that the tabs that you pull are on the cables themselves not the connectors on the ECU.
ECU arrives back from Eurocharged. When sending out your ECU my personal suggestion would be to use FedEx. Pack it very well, bubble wrap, and insure it for $2500-$3000.
If you look closely at this pic, right above and to the left of the first circular nub on the heat sink there is the round hole that needed to be drilled and is now filled in with epoxy.
This is another pic of the modified/drilled ECU from a distance. Hard to even tell anything was done.That's it for now. I know some of the pics are rotated and might make it even harder to make sense out of it so you might want to print them out or save them and rotate them so you can better orient them. I think I even stumbled across a website or youtube vid that shows these cable/connectors a bit better so it will make more sense but once you get in there I think it will be pretty obvious.
I will update this with a vid and my further impressions once I change the plugs and filter and have had an opportunity to punch it a bit. So far, LOVING IT.
Last edited by patsy1099; 07-18-2013 at 06:55 PM.
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Semih Atabey (01-11-2021)
07-18-2013, 11:42 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
I wouldn't touch the K&N's, I would do MB filters at 5K intervals, that's my experience.. the rest of the work was well thought out, my compliments..
I would also start dosing the fuel tank with Stabil Marine Formula (Blue) starting at 4K miles, and every 4K thereafter to prevent degradation due to pump fuel ethanol.
I would do 1st oil change at 10K - keep the breakin oil in the engine for full 1st interval.
Keep the beat !
I would also start dosing the fuel tank with Stabil Marine Formula (Blue) starting at 4K miles, and every 4K thereafter to prevent degradation due to pump fuel ethanol.
I would do 1st oil change at 10K - keep the breakin oil in the engine for full 1st interval.
Keep the beat !
07-20-2013, 10:35 AM
#5
Great post! Thanks for all the photos and blow by blow description. That's some great power and tq gains too.
What was the turn around time a.k.a how long was the SUV out of commission?
Will they re-flash back to factory for free?
What was the turn around time a.k.a how long was the SUV out of commission?
Will they re-flash back to factory for free?
07-20-2013, 08:48 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. I overnighted it on a Mon. They received/flashed/sent back on Tues. I received it before 10am on Wed. Everything went very smoothly. Very happy so far. The hp/tq gains are really sick. I am getting my plugs done next week so after that I'll post back and shoot a vid but I already know how it's going to be because I can feel it so much in the low range.
Yes, they re-flash for free. Which is important on a vehicle (engine) this new in its release because inevitably there will be an important update/recall that you will want the dealer to update. So it's nice to know that a.) this ECU is so ridiculously easy to remove and b.) the tuner will re-flash for free. Another reason why it's important to make sure you choose a tuner that you expect (hope) will be around for at least the next five years (probably not many or any update to the ECU after that).
Yes, they re-flash for free. Which is important on a vehicle (engine) this new in its release because inevitably there will be an important update/recall that you will want the dealer to update. So it's nice to know that a.) this ECU is so ridiculously easy to remove and b.) the tuner will re-flash for free. Another reason why it's important to make sure you choose a tuner that you expect (hope) will be around for at least the next five years (probably not many or any update to the ECU after that).
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07-29-2013, 06:58 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just a quick update. I had the spark plugs and filters done on Saturday so I was able to push it a little more. I still don't want to stomp on it since it is breaking in. The tune really is incredible and makes such a HUGE difference. It is so much fun to drive. There is so more torque now that there is almost some torque steer! I was apprehensive doing this but I am so happy I did.
I haven't had a chance to shoot any vids of it yet but I will get that done this week and post them.
I haven't had a chance to shoot any vids of it yet but I will get that done this week and post them.
07-29-2013, 01:30 PM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I can't say for sure how difficult the plugs are to do. I had my mechanic do it. He didn't mention that it was a problem, only that you need a special socket to get the MB OEM plugs out. It's a 12pt socket that isn't your standard 5/8 plug socket. Only other thing he mentioned was that the plug was fairly recessed and you couldn't even see it with the coil packs removed. He had the vehicle the entire day since I didn't need it but only charged me a couple hours labor for the plugs and filters so I would assume it was fairly standard.
I would say that if you are familiar with changing plugs it should be straightforward but if you're not, it would probably be a big pain. It was a good use of the money for me since I am not very familiar with doing it and didn't want to experiment on a new vehicle.
I inquired with the dealer since I was curious what they would charge and since it was non-OEM parts they didn't even want to get involved.
I would say that if you are familiar with changing plugs it should be straightforward but if you're not, it would probably be a big pain. It was a good use of the money for me since I am not very familiar with doing it and didn't want to experiment on a new vehicle.
I inquired with the dealer since I was curious what they would charge and since it was non-OEM parts they didn't even want to get involved.
07-29-2013, 08:15 PM
#12
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2013 GL 450
I wouldn't touch the K&N's, I would do MB filters at 5K intervals, that's my experience.. the rest of the work was well thought out, my compliments..
I would also start dosing the fuel tank with Stabil Marine Formula (Blue) starting at 4K miles, and every 4K thereafter to prevent degradation due to pump fuel ethanol.
I would do 1st oil change at 10K - keep the breakin oil in the engine for full 1st interval.
Keep the beat !
I would also start dosing the fuel tank with Stabil Marine Formula (Blue) starting at 4K miles, and every 4K thereafter to prevent degradation due to pump fuel ethanol.
I would do 1st oil change at 10K - keep the breakin oil in the engine for full 1st interval.
Keep the beat !
The Renntech rep I called stated that MB can't detect an ECU tune on a regular routine engine check/read-out. They would really have to specifically look for it. Is that correct?
07-29-2013, 10:50 PM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
If we are talking about a quick scan for a CEL code - then RennTech could be considered correct - but on 10K/etc service, and/or if MB flags a update for your truck - then that answer is instantly. Tuneshows as "non-recognized" - no other info.
That is why anytime you take your "tuned" truck for service - advise the dealer so your tune is not re-flashed - which is just s simple button push and 10 minute over writing down load.
That is why anytime you take your "tuned" truck for service - advise the dealer so your tune is not re-flashed - which is just s simple button push and 10 minute over writing down load.
07-31-2013, 07:06 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Boss, great definitely report back. I am going to shoot some vids this weekend. Have just been too busy.
Dalema, nobody has odbII for the 2013 GL's. Doesn't exist. The choices are: drill a hole, heat and pry apart the wafers or piggyback.
Dalema, nobody has odbII for the 2013 GL's. Doesn't exist. The choices are: drill a hole, heat and pry apart the wafers or piggyback.
08-02-2013, 11:55 AM
#18
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2013 GL 450
Guess what showed up today, will report back after install and test drive. Hopefully it's all I've read about, I told the guys at oetuning to give me an aggressive tune lets see how it is....
08-03-2013, 04:57 PM
#21
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2013 GL 450
First impressions after install, definitely the truck is much "lighter" on it's feet. I requested an agressive tune don't know how much different if any from a regular tune but it definitely help the vehicle. Will give it some more miles before I make any other conclusions. So far ok.....
08-14-2013, 02:35 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Boss, any updates on your OE Tune? How are you liking it?
I love my tune more and more every day. Can't say enough about it. Makes this car so fun to drive. I know I keep saying I will post vids. I will. Just been so busy past few weeks.
I love my tune more and more every day. Can't say enough about it. Makes this car so fun to drive. I know I keep saying I will post vids. I will. Just been so busy past few weeks.
08-19-2013, 10:57 AM
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GL450
08-26-2013, 10:15 AM
#25
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sorry for the delay in vids. I know I keep promising. I am puting in a dash cam and I think it will be better to post vids from that because it also will show speed. I'll get something up in the next week or so.
The tuners usually only make one tune from what I understand. It isn't that one is more aggressive than the other. One tuner may or may not have a more aggressive tune than another tuner but they all appear to be about the same. They can make further adjustments to the tune if you have other mods done like exhaust, intake, new cat, etc., but if you are doing just the tune than it's pretty much one size fits all (except an adjustment for octane in your area).
The tuners usually only make one tune from what I understand. It isn't that one is more aggressive than the other. One tuner may or may not have a more aggressive tune than another tuner but they all appear to be about the same. They can make further adjustments to the tune if you have other mods done like exhaust, intake, new cat, etc., but if you are doing just the tune than it's pretty much one size fits all (except an adjustment for octane in your area).
Last edited by patsy1099; 08-26-2013 at 10:20 AM.
